Removing propshaft freelander 1999 front or rear?

[2_stroke]

Heya guys I just got a landrover freebie for my wife, its going to be used around the suburbs on road only. I read that you can remove the prop shaft so the vcu doesnt get overworked, and then put it back in when needed. The freebie has had a diff work done so maybe the fixed it? My questions are

Whats a propshaft?
Front or rear?
Is my 1999 modle effected by this ratio ird issue?
WTF is a ird?
Is it safe for these freebies to run around in 2wd without damaging other parts?

I have done a but of home work on the issue vai google and will grab a service manaul asap. I don't care about not having 4wd as the things going to be suburb drivin only, i just want it to keep going lol. By the way i'am new to this forum and gidday to all :)

[woko]

Heya guys I just got a landrover freebie for my wife, its going to be used around the suburbs on road only. I read that you can remove the prop shaft so the vcu doesnt get overworked, and then put it back in when needed. The freebie has had a diff work done so maybe the fixed it? My questions are

Whats a propshaft?
Front or rear?
Is my 1999 modle effected by this ratio ird issue
WTF is a ird?
Is it safe for these freebies to run around in 2wd without damaging other parts?
I have done a but of home work on the issue vai google and will grab a service manaul asap. I don't care about not having 4wd as the things going to be suburb drivin only, i just want it to keep going lol. By the way i'am new to this forum and gidday to all :)...
1The propshaft connects the IRD to the rear diff
2There is only a rear. It is in 2 pieces with the VCU in the middle
3Yes 99my can be affected
4 Intermediate reduction drive. Is a fancy name for transfer box
5 Yes they use the same running gear as a 2wd Rover car just without the IRD

[aikendrum105]

Also - you'll need a torx socket set for the bolts securing the propshaft to the IRD at the front and the diff at the back - they're one size apart too (fronts are smaller)

At least - I did on our 2000 model :)

There's a thread somewhere that lists the serial numbers stamped on the IRD to see if it's the newer ratio unit (good) or the original ratio unit (overworks the VCU) I'd suspect that if yours is still going strong and has more than 100k kms on it - it's already had the newer unit retro-fitted.

If your car doesn't feel like you have the handbrake on *hard* when turning full lock - I'd maybe leave the VCU in there - it's easy enough to test it . Very handy to have 4wd even on sealed roads (wet / leaves / mud). Garry's point in the other thread about more lash is spot on - There's pronounced on / off throttle lash with the tailshaft removed - makes the car a little harder to drive smoothly. He's also right that it feels more nimble though - and would have much better fuel economy I bet.

Of course, everyone's entitled to my opinion :)

The thread re the serials is here: Testing Viscous Coupling Unit - Land Rover Forums : Land Rover and Range Rover Forum (http://www.landroversonly.com/forums/f11/testing-viscous-coupling-unit-2781/)

and says this:

Early IRDs (lets say the one with wronf diff. ratios) was LR part no: TAG000020 and replaced by the TAG000230.
Bad news is none can tell us for sure which is the one that LR fitted to our vehicles and also the detailed differences between the two IRDs, but we suspect different (right) diff. ratios in the TAG000230 and maybe stronger bearings.