Service interval for TDV6

[gromit]

I'm interested in the recommended service interval for the TDV6 motor in a Land Rover.
I have a diesel Territory on order and if the salesman is correct the Ford service interval is 15,000k's. Just wondered if this is the same or if they have extended it.


Thanks,


Colin

[Tote]

D3 is 12000KM
Regards,
Tote

[Mully]

Yep... I'm doing mine every 10 thou. Should go forever. :)

[ade]

i do my 95 300tdi every 5thou, oil and filter fuel and air fillter

[Disco4SE]

I believe that no matter how advanced the diesel engine or oil is, the oil and filter should be changed at no more than 12,000Klm's.
The older the engine, the more frequent the oil & filter should be changed.
I used to do the changes in my old diesels every 5,000Klm's
Cheers, Craig

[Ean Austral]

Was surprised to see how black the oil was in our tdv6 after 12000ks, will drop the interval to 10,000ks..but guess I got used to the no EGR on the D2, keeping the oil cleaner longer..




Cheers Ean

[Naks]

Was surprised to see how black the oil was in our tdv6 after 12000ks, will drop the interval to 10,000ks..but guess I got used to the no EGR on the D2, keeping the oil cleaner longer..

Black oil does not mean anything - as soon as you put in new oil in a TD the oil goes black.

What you should do is send the oil for a contamination analysis - look for levels of metal and sulphuric acid.

Also, the EGR on any engine makes the oil dirtier, not the other way around. Tha is because it recirculates gunk into the engine. Remove the EGR and your engine will run cleaner, leading to better fuel consumption.

What oil are you using atm? IIRC on the TDV6 it should be the Castrol Magnatec 0w30 or 5w30 or similar fully synthetic.

[rick130]

Black oil does not mean anything - as soon as you put in new oil in a TD the oil goes black.

What you should do is send the oil for a contamination analysis - look for levels of metal and sulphuric acid.

Also, the EGR on any engine makes the oil dirtier, not the other way around. Tha is because it recirculates gunk into the engine. Remove the EGR and your engine will run cleaner, leading to better fuel consumption.

What oil are you using atm? IIRC on the TDV6 it should be the Castrol Magnatec 0w30 or 5w30 or similar fully synthetic.

Ean knows all about UOA's, he does them on his boat ;)

Oh, and if you re-read his post, he says that his old D2 stayed cleaner, longer as the EGR had been disconnected.

It also helped that the old TD5 had one of the best by-pass filters in the business.

[rick130]

I believe that no matter how advanced the diesel engine or oil is, the oil and filter should be changed at no more than 12,000Klm's.
The older the engine, the more frequent the oil & filter should be changed.
I used to do the changes in my old diesels every 5,000Klm's
Cheers, Craig

I better not mention then that I used to go 20,000km on a TD42T Patrol, back when our fuel was 500PPM sulphur too :D
It was doing long highway miles towing, clocking up 10,000km every five to six weeks.

At 20,000km on exxy syn oil we were in front financially compared to 5,000km premium mineral oil changes and with less wear.

It's just clicked over 370,000km and is still powering on, the engine is untouched.

Then there's the large over the road trucks that go 100,000km between changes, and..well, you get my drift.

Used oil analysis and premium oils can work well in the right situations.
If a vehicle is only doing under 20 km runs and never really gets hot, short change intervals are in order, it's just horses for courses.

[Disco4SE]

Slightly off the subject. I know a ships engineer. He claims that they never change the oil, only the filters.
I have also heard of people that change the oil (in their vehicles) and not the filter.........why????
Cheers, Craig

[bbyer]

i do my 95 300tdi every 5thou, oil and filter fuel and air filterI assume that you are saying that every 5,000 km, or every few months, you change oil and filters, and as such, the engine is still running well.

That is a testament to the importance of oil changes to engine life. Also, my view is that new filters are probably more important than new oil, at least in dirty dusty conditions.

I have seen comments on the EU boards to the effect that these extended oil change recommendations have very little to do with the particular vehicle as the trend seems to apply to all the manufacturers. The decreased service intervals are a reaction to more restrictive and expensive EU Oil Recycle Requirements plus the trend to "free servicing included" within the vehicle lease period.

For me, with my 4.4L petrol V8, it is oil and oil filter every 6,000 km or every six months. In practice, this means about four times a year for normal city pavement driving.

I think also what happens is because you are under the vehicle more often, the little things tend to get looked after and hence do not turn into big things.

[rick130]

I assume that you are saying that every 5,000 km, or every few months, you change oil and filters, and as such, the engine is still running well.

That is a testament to the importance of oil changes to engine life. Also, my view is that new filters are probably more important than new oil, at least in dirty dusty conditions.


[snip]


re-read post # 9, you don't have to change the oil frequently for good engine life ;)

On most vehicles the oil filter does very little filtering, they are really only there to pick up bits in case of component failure or if when servicing someone is less than clean (a lot of mechanics from what I've observed)
Very few full flow oil filters filter down to reasonable levels and most European and Japanese OE filters tend to compromise more towards flow than filtration.

IMO real oil filtering only takes place with by-pass filtration, eg the centrifuge on a TD5.
The centrifuge on the TD5 can filter to the 1 micron level and below whereas most car full flow filters efficiency is usually in the range of beta2=18 to beta2=30 (18 to 30 micron nominal, eg. 50% of 30 micron particles in the relevant ISO multi-pass test)
The very best full flow filters efficiencies are down to beta2=6, but you pay through the nose for them and the range of vehicles they fit is often limited.

What is critical in dusty conditions is the air filter and its sealing.
Poor sealing or a poor air filter is obvious when oil testing, it shows quickly and savagely on contaminants and wear metals.
Install at least an OE quality filter element and make sure it's sealed correctly, a lot of aftermarket panel style filters often don't seal properly and never use something like a K&N or other cotton gauze style filters or oiled foam.
They are really poor at ultimate filtration, letting far too much dust through in the size ranges that do the most damage.

Where more frequent oil changes work in an engines favour is in cases of fuel dilution, which are becoming much more common with high pressure injection and short trips, in both DI petrol as well as diesel.
It really gives the oil a caning, most all oils don't cope, so if an owner isn't aware it's happening (most aren't) more frequent oil changes save massive long term wear.

I agree that most servicing schedules these days seem driven more by lessening waste (admirable) and keeping servicing costs down for the lease/fleet sector.

[gromit]

Thanks Guys,

I guessed that Ford would have extended the intervals to compete in the marketplace.
I intend to run the Terri for 4 years and then the wife will run it for 4 years so I'll certainly look at changing the oil more frequently.

I just have to make sure it's not obvious I've changed the oil because otherwise I'll probably invalidate the warranty !

I ran a Renault in the UK years ago and the oil filter was only changed every 2nd oil change, did about 220,000miles without any issues.
But I also remember bus companies changing filters regularly and only changing the oil every 100,000miles or so but they had the oil regularly tested. The testing warned them when the oil was breaking down but also indicated looming problems by checking on the quantity & type of metal particles in the oil.


Colin

[bbyer]

[snip] re-read post # 9, you don't have to change the oil frequently for good engine life ;)

What is critical in dusty conditions is the air filter and its sealing.
Poor sealing or a poor air filter is obvious when oil testing, it shows quickly and savagely on contaminants and wear metals.
Install at least an OE quality filter element and make sure it's sealed correctly, a lot of aftermarket panel style filters often don't seal properly and never use something like a K&N or other cotton gauze style filters or oiled foam.
They are really poor at ultimate filtration, letting far too much dust through in the size ranges that do the most damage.

Where more frequent oil changes work in an engines favour is in cases of fuel dilution, which are becoming much more common with high pressure injection and short trips, in both DI petrol as well as diesel.
It really gives the oil a caning, most all oils don't cope, so if an owner isn't aware it's happening (most aren't) more frequent oil changes save massive long term wear. I appreciated your post. Yes, I can say that at least right now, at 130,000 km, I have yet to add any oil between oil changes. The oil level does drop maybe a 1/2 litre in the 6,000 km between oil changes but nothing that gets me excited. At the same time, I can say that my previous Chev 5.7 litre (350 cu in), V8's rarely used any oil prior to say 250,000 km. I recognize however the Jag engine is so much more complicated, smaller, revs higher, and works harder than the 350 so that is why I am always watching.

Your comments re the K&N style filter and oil soaked foam got my interest. I recall my lawn mower air filter is oil soaked foam; maybe that is a hint.

I can believe that the engine intake air filter is what matters most. A failed filter can introduce fresh abrasives right into the cylinders on a virtually daily basis. I have often thought that of all the bush mods, the raised air intake is probably the best dollar value of them all. I do not know from which direction the LR factory one sucks air, but I have always thought that having the air scoop face to the rear made the most sense in desert driving conditions. Somehow ram air into a 4x4 does not seem like a priority.

I had never thought much about engine oil dilution, however with these direct injection type fuel systems being more common, yes, it would make sense that fuel, petrol or diesel, would more commonly make it if not past the rings, then the valves, and hence into the oil system.

My dealer recently showed me a cylinder head he was working on from someones LR. While I was impressed, I must say I would not look forward to seeing the parts from my engine that close up.

[PAT303]

Changing oil at 5,000 intervals in a post 1990 Land Rover diesel engine is a waste of oil,nothing more,nothing less.People who claim longer engine life with more changes are living a fantasy,the cooling system servicing is far more important. Pat

[Ean Austral]

Black oil does not mean anything - as soon as you put in new oil in a TD the oil goes black.

What you should do is send the oil for a contamination analysis - look for levels of metal and sulphuric acid.

Also, the EGR on any engine makes the oil dirtier, not the other way around. Tha is because it recirculates gunk into the engine. Remove the EGR and your engine will run cleaner, leading to better fuel consumption.

What oil are you using atm? IIRC on the TDV6 it should be the Castrol Magnatec 0w30 or 5w30 or similar fully synthetic.

Cant say I agree wholely with what you say..I did say thet my D2 kept the oil cleaner woth no EGR, hence my comment about the D3 with the EGR and the black oil.

Not all oil goes black straight away in a TD, I run a mineral oil in our cummins engines and it goes thru half its oil change interval before it goes black, and my D2 running a 15w 40 mineral oil that most told me was unsuitable for a td5 went more than 5000ks before it went to what I would call black...

I personally believe that a good mineral oil will be suitable in any car even the D3 but as it has been using synthetic I have continue'd to use it.

I used synpower 5w 40 last change..

I agree oil sampling to be the only sure way to tell of its condition,


Cheers Ean

Cheers Ean