1985 110 Front Brake Calipers

[steveG]

Trying to order some brake pads for my '85 County 110.
Apparently there are 2 types, a Lockheed caliper and another sort.

I'm pretty sure I've got the Lockheed ones. Piston diameter is 46mm if that helps distinguish them.
Can anyone confirm if these are the Lockheeds?

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/06/1346.jpg

I'm going to give the Bendix 4WD pads a try as it seems quite a few people have had a reasonable run from them. Not sure whats on there now but there's not much stopping power. I've adjusted the rear drums as best I can, and checked for decent vacuum etc, so the next easy step is to try a different set of pads....

Steve

[Sirocco]

what is the number stamped on the side?

Is that also an 'AP' stamped on it? if it is, then that is AP Lockheed.

early 110s had the single brake pipe port to o it matches that of the original equipment no worries there.

I dont think there is a difference in pads, if you tried to rebuild them then the seal kits/pistons would be different part numbers. For the 46mm calipers you need STC201 pistons and AEU2539 seal repair kit if you ever go down that route.

hope this helps

G

[steveG]

Thanks Sirocco.
I've blown up the original photo and pretty sure the numbers on the side are: 5247-682C. Also had a look on Google images and reckon you're right about the AP being AP Lockheed.

Steve

[LRCounty]

My '85 County uses brake pad part number STC-2950....the calipers look the same as yours. I purchased Lucas branded brake pads.

I had the lack of stopping power problem. The disks were very worn, so I replaced them (only about $30 each). That and the brake pads made a little bit of difference. I replaced the piston and seals with the part numbers mentioned above when I saw how corroded the original pistons were. Another bit of difference in stopping power from that. Then I replaced my probably 26 year old rubber perished brake lines, front 2 and rear single, with stainless braided lines. HUGE difference in stopping power.

I would definitely recommend having a look at the state of your brake lines. Replace with at least new rubber lines if they are not looking good.

Cheers
Andre

[rovercare]

I can lock all 5 35's with Lockheed pads

[djam1]

I can lock all 5 35's with Lockheed pads

mmm all 5

[steveG]

I can lock all 5 35's with Lockheed pads

That's cheating though. The 5th wheel is already locked before you start braking :D

Must get over your way to have a drive and see how much mine sux!

Steve

[steveG]

My '85 County uses brake pad part number STC-2950....the calipers look the same as yours. I purchased Lucas branded brake pads.

I had the lack of stopping power problem. The disks were very worn, so I replaced them (only about $30 each). That and the brake pads made a little bit of difference. I replaced the piston and seals with the part numbers mentioned above when I saw how corroded the original pistons were. Another bit of difference in stopping power from that. Then I replaced my probably 26 year old rubber perished brake lines, front 2 and rear single, with stainless braided lines. HUGE difference in stopping power.

I would definitely recommend having a look at the state of your brake lines. Replace with at least new rubber lines if they are not looking good.

Cheers
Andre

Thanks Andre.
Hadn't really considered brake lines as a potential cause. I'm guessing like yours they are likely to be originals.

Matt - have you got new lines on yours (as well as the Defender booster and rear disks)?

Steve

[rar110]

Who sells ss braided brake lines?

[Nero]

Who sells ss braided brake lines?

Specailist brake parts suppliers if you have something a bit different they will make them to order but you'll have to supply a sample, or some places like Pirtek/enzed will do it but it will depend on the individual franchise.

[85 county]

Another couple of thing forgotten about county stoppers.

There are different size shoes for as your drum wears. Very important that you get the drum cam correct ( adjusters) i start with the drum off and a ruler, very important is the cam by the slave, get this wrong and you will be pinching fluid from the fronts.

This is where someone pipes in as says, split system. Which it is.

Second forgotten thing

on the fire wall there is a balance valve thingy. Every one I have seen has been stuffed. its purpose is to equalize the pressure from front to rear. This is done by a piston in a sleeve. One side of the piston is front the other left. If your backs are out of adjustment the piston will be pinched over which takes fluid from the fronts. Add to that the O rings on the piston are probably shot which lets fluid pass from the fronts to the rears.
wooden brakes and slow stopping.

about 300 bucks for the balance valve, or a couple of O rings, if you can get it apart

[steveG]

<snip> Very important that you get the drum cam correct ( adjusters) i start with the drum off and a ruler, very important is the cam by the slave, get this wrong and you will be pinching fluid from the fronts.
<snip>


Not sure what you mean by "start with the drum off and a ruler ,and "the cam by the slave".
Both cams are equal distance from the slave, and I'm not sure what you're meaning to use the ruler for.

Good info about the balance valve. When did LR stop fitting that - was it when they started fitting rear discs?

Steve

[rovercare]

Thanks Andre.
Hadn't really considered brake lines as a potential cause. I'm guessing like yours they are likely to be originals.

Matt - have you got new lines on yours (as well as the Defender booster and rear disks)?

Steve


Yea, stainless lines

[rovercare]

Who sells ss braided brake lines?

Paddocks uk in various lengths too

[85 county]

Not sure what you mean by "start with the drum off and a ruler ,and "the cam by the slave".
Both cams are equal distance from the slave, and I'm not sure what you're meaning to use the ruler for.

Good info about the balance valve. When did LR stop fitting that - was it when they started fitting rear discs?

Steve

ops i was thinking of some thing else,
i mean the spring by the slave is stronger than the other spring. if you doint have the cams adjusted correct the shoes retract to far pushing the slave piston back in. this then pinches fluid from the front Ver the balance valve.
the old school way of nipping up the cams then baking them off is not really the most reliable way to do these. with the drum off i measure the dia of the drum and then the placement of the shoes to make sure they are lined up well IE one shoe is not higher than the other. may sound a bit over the top but i can chirp 33" 12.5" on the black stuff.

as for when the balance valve was first fitted and if it was not, i have no idea. i do know that there are 2 different model valves, one larger than the other. i doint know why.

i fact i am so happy with my disk drum setup that i given away all ideas of changing to disks and the disadvantages of disks, in a mudless and dry SA