View Full Version : FL1 - Rear Diff Mountings
101RRS
5th June 2011, 03:28 PM
I am in the process of replacing the front rear diff mount in my FL1.  The diff is in place with everything still connected.  I have managed to get the old mount out, the damaged rubber made it relatively easy.
However I cannot get the new mount in place - why Land Rover did not make the bracket that holds mount removable:mad:. People who designed these things should be be made to work on them.
I replaced the front mount 90,000km ago and remember is was a bit of a pain to get in then but I was also replacing the diff and had a few things off it.
So, those who have done this recently - what is the trick - I know it can be done without pulling bits off - just how escapes me.
Woko - where are you??
Garry
woko
6th June 2011, 01:33 PM
I have always undone the LH rear mounts as well. It makes it heaps easier and its only 2 bolts.
101RRS
6th June 2011, 04:02 PM
I have always undone the LH rear mounts as well. It makes it heaps easier and its only 2 bolts.
Oh - Ok - was considering loosening the four diff cradle bolts and letting the lot drop about an inch but wasn't sure if I would have enough room.
So unbolting the rear (by LH I assume you mean the drivers side ) mount from the diff will allow it to drop enough to get the front one in?
That front diff mount arrangement looks like it was designed by a 5 yo.
Thanks - was hoping you would come along.
Garry
woko
6th June 2011, 05:41 PM
It doesn't matter which one you loose LH or RH it will give you enough room with a bit of cursing to get it to fit. You can unbolt both of them at the rear and it will go straight in. I have never tried unbolting the sub frame. Give it a go and let us know if it works.
101RRS
11th June 2011, 02:48 PM
Finally got back to it today.  I removed the bolts that hold the diff to the drivers side mount but I could still not get enough room and came close to denting or putting a hole in the tank trying to get it in.  The heads of the bolts on the passenger side diff mount were a bit suss so I left them alone.
I then decided to do my least attractive option - that is heat the front mount and bent it out a bit (mild steel and none structural) - did this and it went straight in - took a whole 15mins to heat, cool, insert mount, lightly heat mount and tighten and cool before the heat got to the rubber - too easy.
Thanks for all the pointers.
Cheers
Garry
rich67
7th August 2012, 10:41 PM
Will be doing my rear diff mounts at the weekend, I will be replacing all 3. Does the diff need to be aligned or will it align itself when tightening the bolts up?
woko
9th August 2012, 07:06 PM
There is a service tool for aligning, I have changed heaps of these and never used it.
camel_landy
30th August 2012, 08:38 AM
Garry, if it makes you feel any better, it's even harder on a Camel Freelander with the underbody protection getting in the way too!!!
M
101RRS
30th August 2012, 08:48 AM
Garry, if it makes you feel any better, it's even harder on a Camel Freelander with the underbody protection getting in the way too!!!
M
What makes me feel even better is that I have sold the FL1 so is someone elses problem now :)
camel_landy
30th August 2012, 04:58 PM
What makes me feel even better is that I have sold the FL1 so is someone elses problem now :)
Wow... I thought you'd be buried in that thing! :D
M
101RRS
30th August 2012, 05:14 PM
When I got my Freelander I thought what a bitch of a thing to work on - but that pails into insignificance compared to my RRS.  A new learning process begins.
Garry
woko
31st August 2012, 07:24 PM
When I got my Freelander I thought what a bitch of a thing to work on - but that pails into insignificance compared to my RRS.  A new learning process begins.
Garry
Don't buy a Alfa Romeo then.
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