Petrol Tank Liner

[gromit]

I went down to the back shed at the weekend to fire up the Series 1 and noticed the smell of stale petrol.
My S1 has an extra fuel tank under the tub and a switch to select main or auxiliary. I run on the auxiliary most of the time so the petrol has sat unused in the main tank for a while.

On investigation the fuel in the main tank has gone off and there is a small leak from the bottom edge, just a wet patch rather than a leak. On checking inside the tank is heavily rusted, even the inside of the cap is badly rusted.
Not sure if the corrosion is just because the petrol went 'off', maybe I used an ethanol mix in the past or could it be the lead replacement additive I've used ??

Anyway, I need to investigate a tank liner system. I found that POR offer one (and there is an agent locally) I just need to check it is OK with ethanol based fuel. Does anyone have any recommendations ?

I can drop the main tank out and run on the auxiliary tank so at least I can still use it while I fix it.

Reminder to self....use both tanks and make sure fuel isn't going 'off' in future.

[bee utey]

RED-KOTE DRY FUEL TANK LINER REDKOTE RED COAT (eBay item 220763467393 end time 01-Jul-11 20:09:56 AEST) : Cars, Bikes, Boats (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220763467393&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT)

[Lotz-A-Landies]

With modern fuels, it is worthwhile using a fuel stabiliser in our hobbies!

Such as Lucas Fuel Stabiliser
http://www.lucasoil.com.au/images/stories/products/fuelstabilisersml.gif

or the PPC (POR) product PPC - Fuel Preservative and Stabilizer (http://www.ppc.au.com/access_preservatives.htm)

[gromit]

Thanks Diana,

This stabiliser has been advertised on TV a bit lately
STA-BIL :: When You Store, Start with STA-BIL® (http://www.sta-bil.com.au/index.html)

I'll have to give one of them a try once I get the tank fixed.....

Colin

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Colin

I'm sure there are likely a few more out there but the message is clear, either drain the fuel when sitting for long periods or use a stabiliser.

If you live near a commercial airport, there are a number of aviation tank sealers Jeffco and KBS are names that come to mind, which may be cheaper than the POR product.

The important thing to remember is to get the tank scrupulously clean and rust free on the inside before using any product. Otherwise the rust may continue to build up and rupture the sealant coating.

[series1buff]

the POR kit has 3 parts

Detergent wash

acid wash

sealer

Dont waste money buying the whole kit. Just buy the POR or RED KOTE sealer .

Wash out the tank thoroughly wish a strong dishwashing detergent . Buy some rust remover /acid and thoroughly de rust the inside , it must be very clean bare metal//Put heaps of old bolts inside and mount it on a concrete mixer .

The tank must be totally 100% dry before using the sealer..Use a hair dryer inside it for a few hours to warm it up.

The rust mostly happens betwen the tank and the crash plate , water gets in there and its a disaster.

Mike

[d@rk51d3]

+1 on the RedKote.

[Walster]

I used the POR15 tank sealer, and as series1buff has stated, just cleaned out the tank and used a cheap rust inhibitor, and dried the tank out using a hair dryer, and then utilised the POR15. Easy to put in and roll around inside (nice and thick), no problems at all in the past 3 years with ethanol additive fuels, normal fuel and also with a valve saver added.

[numpty]

Red Kote

[gromit]

I called into 4-Wheel Drives today and there were a number of reproduction fuel tanks ready to be freighted out. I asked about the Series 1 and they can get them made (approx $450) but they need the filler neck from the old tank.

I'm sure most sheetmetal companies could also make a suitable reproduction.

Not something I would buy but might be useful to someone, plus if you have a tank that is beyond repair save the filler neck......


Colin

[chazza]

I made a tank myself but unfortunately the filler neck was like a piece of flywire once the molasses had finished its job :( I will probably try to make a new one, one day.

Good advice from Colin - keep all filler necks and other tank fittings :)

[drifter]

I used the KBS kit for a couple of reasons

It was cheaper than the same size POR kit
While it had a kit the same size as the POR kit, it also had a 'motorcycle' 45 litre kit which I figured would give me less waste than the full kits (and was cheaper again).

It appears to have worked very well.

[series1buff]

When doing this job, it pays to have two or more tanks ready for the sealer . Just pour the sealer from one tank to the next . I did two tanks at the same time . The sealer goes off in the can and it's a shame to waste it .

MIKE

[gromit]

Mike,

Good idea, I have another tank I'll check out, I think it's OK except the soldering between the tank and the support frame has come apart in one area. Maybe I should solder that back together and do the two at the same time

I'm not in a hurry because I can run on the auxiliary tank. I must check that the valves in the Facet pumps are OK, I don't want fuel being pumped back through the original tank line. Thinking about it I'll find a fitting to block off the original line just-in-case.

I'll get to my local metal spinners in the next week or so and ask about spinning the filler necks. Shouldn't be a problem just quantity vs. cost as always.......

Colin

[back_in]

to the ones that have a lot of money
2 parts plastic water pipe cement
1 parts plastic water pipe primer
mix together
rotate around the inside of your rusty leaky tank
will seal 2 m.m. holes with ease
will out last any 20 year old's watching this show
have posted this many times
still many non believers
cheers
Ian

[numpty]

to the ones that have a lot of money
2 parts plastic water pipe cement
1 parts plastic water pipe primer
mix together
rotate around the inside of your rusty leaky tank
will seal 2 m.m. holes with ease
will out last any 20 year old's watching this show
have posted this many times
still many non believers
cheers
Ian

Thanks Ian.

I see it's a 2 to 1 mix, but what quantity are you talking about.

[back_in]

up to you
500 mm
+
250mm
will coat 2 tanks
what it costs
is nothing
all you have to do is keep turning until all is coated
even a person from the east coast of Aus.
could with training work that out
cheers
Ian