"Reg - The series 2a build

[tibbsy]

So I have my new 1963 landy ute! But there are no brakes. The story i got from the previous owner was that the vehicle had sat stationary in a puddle on there property for about 1 hr. The car was recovered and placed in the shed. the brakes have not worked since. With the vehicle running, the brake pedal falls to the floor and there is no amount of pumping will bring the pedal up. So what i'm looking for is the best place to start. There is fluid in the master cylinder. I think that maybe the brake mechs at the wheels are seized and that if I pull these assemblies apart and free it all up the brakes should return!! Just though i would ask if anyone have an idea of the best place to start.

PS I can get the car up to the garage until I fix the brakes!! So can't start the resto!!

Cheers

Chris

[digger]

if nothing else a landy with genuine brakes is the same as a landy with no brakes!!

[wagoo]

The wheel cylinders may well be seized if the truck has been sittin idle for years, but if the master cylinder reservoir is full and the pedal goes to the floor and doesn't pump up then the master cyl is the problem.
Wagoo.

[Johnno1969]

So I have my new 1963 landy ute! But there are no brakes. The story i got from the previous owner was that the vehicle had sat stationary in a puddle on there property for about 1 hr. The car was recovered and placed in the shed. the brakes have not worked since. With the vehicle running, the brake pedal falls to the floor and there is no amount of pumping will bring the pedal up. So what i'm looking for is the best place to start. There is fluid in the master cylinder. I think that maybe the brake mechs at the wheels are seized and that if I pull these assemblies apart and free it all up the brakes should return!! Just though i would ask if anyone have an idea of the best place to start.

PS I can get the car up to the garage until I fix the brakes!! So can't start the resto!!

Cheers

Chris

Hey Chris,

Did they say how the brakes were before the vehicle sat in the water....?? How deep was this "puddle"??

You mention "with the vehicle running" - does this mean that it has a vacuum servo fitted now? When the brake pedal goes to the floor, is there any resistance at all?

If everything else was alright and the wheel cyliders were all seized, you'd be more likey to get a pedal that was as hard as a rock, but still with no braking.

If hitting the pedal gives you no joy at present, there are lots of things to check out. If you do have reason for concern over the wheel cylinders, pull off the drums (which I guess you'll be doing anyway) and see if the cylinders are seized or leaking, that the springs are on the shoes properly, and not broken and that the adjusters have the shoes set close to the drum linings. Up top, you can check the master cylinder pushrod and its adjustment - and keep an eye out everywhere for leaks.

If everything seems alright, try bleeding the brakes and see what comes out....

I hope this helps for a start. Do you have access to a manual?

Cheers,

John

[tibbsy]

digger - Sounds like an Armstron Siddley!! My dad had one that you would have to set up to stop the car!! Pump 2-3 times and then start to slow!!!!

Johnno1969 - Thanks!! The puddle was deep enough that the some if not all of the drums would be in the water.

Running vehicle - unfortunately the vehicle has been fitted with a holden 186 (eventually I want to fit an orginal diesel into it), so not sure about the vaccum servo but will check (keeping in mind that I'm very much learning). There is no restistance from the pedal at all. I don't know what the brake was like before the puddle, but I assume that there was at least a pedal. he told be that the master cylinder was new. But of course i'm not taking his word for it.

My first thought was that the wheel cylinders had seized or the mech around the wheel cylinders, but then I was confused as I thought the would be a hard pedal. I did think about the cylinder leaking! That is what got me thinking that there could be an issue closer to the pedal.

I think that you have clarified that I will start with the wheel braking mech and move from there. I think that once I get the drum off one wheel I will get an idea of where I am!!

I just need the brakes working to get the car up to the garage, i'm not comfortable driving it up there until I get brakes!!

Hey thanks again for your help!!

[tangus89]

i would say the same if your slave cylinders were seized then the pedal would be solid. i would, check for leaks, but would have to be pretty major for the pedal to go to the floor and you would notice the resovoir emptying after pumping for a while. also check the flexi hoses for leaks. i would try bleeding clean fluid through the system, if the pedal still goes to the floor, i would say your master cyl is stuffed. and the fluid is leaking straight past the piston. and maybe into the servo... (had that once on a toyota. got brake fluid in the engine oil, through the vac system. that was fun, not sure if that can happen on a landy). or it is just leaking back past the master piston back into the res.

what you can do to test if you have a leaking wheel cylinder without taking the wheels off. is bleed the system first and if the pedal is still going straight to the floor, get some vice grips (or some other clamp) and go and clamp off all the flexi hoses. if the pedal is hard then the master cyl is fine. then undo one clamp and try the pedal it should still be stiff but have a bit more movement. do this for the remaining clamps, and if you undo one and the pedal goes soft that wheel is the trouble. just chuck the clamp back on and the brakes should work enough to stop you driving slowly. (have actually driven home with the rear clamped off like that, also a POS 'indestructible' toyota)


Tangus

[Johnno1969]

digger - Sounds like an Armstron Siddley!! My dad had one that you would have to set up to stop the car!! Pump 2-3 times and then start to slow!!!!

Johnno1969 - Thanks!! The puddle was deep enough that the some if not all of the drums would be in the water.

Running vehicle - unfortunately the vehicle has been fitted with a holden 186 (eventually I want to fit an orginal diesel into it), so not sure about the vaccum servo but will check (keeping in mind that I'm very much learning). There is no restistance from the pedal at all. I don't know what the brake was like before the puddle, but I assume that there was at least a pedal. he told be that the master cylinder was new. But of course i'm not taking his word for it.

My first thought was that the wheel cylinders had seized or the mech around the wheel cylinders, but then I was confused as I thought the would be a hard pedal. I did think about the cylinder leaking! That is what got me thinking that there could be an issue closer to the pedal.

I think that you have clarified that I will start with the wheel braking mech and move from there. I think that once I get the drum off one wheel I will get an idea of where I am!!

I just need the brakes working to get the car up to the garage, i'm not comfortable driving it up there until I get brakes!!

Hey thanks again for your help!!


No worries, Chris. The lack of pedal could come from any one of a number of causes. Just work your way through the components. I doubt that the vehicle would have servo-assisted brakes. More likely you'll have the standard single system with no servo-assistance. If the old owner replaced the master cylinder, that could mean that the system has not been bled properly and there's air in it. But, basically, whatever faults you find or wherever you find them, it's a good idea to check out all the compoments (this includes solid lines and flexible hoses) anyway.

Ideally, what you are aiming for at the end of the day is a system with:



Master cylinder operating properly and with the freeplay adjustment on the pushrod correct
All lines and hoses in good condition
wheel cylinders operating freely
brake shoes with good linings, and springs correctly fitted
brake shoes adjusted to correct clearance from the drums
drum internal diameters withing tolerable limits of wear
No hydraulic leaks

If you're still getting familiar with the vehicle, a Haynes manual for the Series IIa would be a worthwhile purchase. The procedures, diagrams and pictures therein will be a real help, along with the sagacious advice from the good folk on this forum.

Oh, and commiserations on the Holden motor.

John

[JDNSW]

Start from the pedal! If there is fluid in the reservoir (and make sure it is in the brake (outer) section, not just the clutch section!), and the pedal goes straight to the floor, there are several possibilities.

1. Pedal is not operating the m/c. Could be due to the nut having moved along the pushrod. You can check this by removing the cover held by six small screws on the top of the pedal box.

2. Faulty m/c. Most likely case. check by loosening the union on the output of the m/c and see if this pumps fluid.

3. M/c is working, but there is so much air in the system there is no resistance (bleed the brakes), or there is so much free play on the brake shoes that the pedal hits the floor before the shoes hit the drums. Check that fluid is getting to the wheel cylinders by bleeding a bit of fluid, then try adjusting the shoes until the wheel locks. Do this for all wheels. With all wheels locked by adjustment, you should have a solid pedal (assuming previous checks work OK. If not, you may be able to isolate the problem a bit by clamping off all the brake lines and release them one at a time.

If there is one or more wheels that you cannot lock by adjustment, this may be where the problem is. In any case, I would be inclined to remove all drums to check condition of linings and drums and cylinders.

Note that it is very unlikely that the 2a originally was fitted with a brake booster (it was an option, but I don't recall ever seeing one that early) but it may have had one fitted after market - I know I had one on my 58 2a when that one was sold new. If fitted early in its life it will be an in line booster, probably a PBR VH44 located in the LH mudguard, but a recent fitting is more likely to use the m/c and integrated booster off a Series 3.

Hope this helps.

John

[d@rk51d3]

Once you get started, there will be no stopping you.......HA hahha haaaaa......... ~sigh~ :(:(

[Johnno1969]

Once you get started, there will be no stopping you.......HA hahha haaaaa......... ~sigh~ :(:(

Heh eheheheheh......

[tibbsy]

Thanks to everyone for the help!!

Taking all of that information into account the process that I will follow is:

1. Clamp of all of the wheels (using clamps on the flexi-hose) - this will determine whether the imediate problem is at the wheels or under the bonnet!

2. If at the wheels I will use the clamps to determine which wheels.
- Adjust the pad to drum.
- Remove drum and free up (if need be)
- Bleed the system.

3. If under the bonnet i will check the function of the Master cylinder:
- Pedal and pushrod function
- Undo the union and check if the fluid is pumping.
- Bleed the system

I have the Haynes work book so this should help.

All of this is to get the car up to the garage and start to strip and restore!! Once this starts there will definately be a project thread started. With as many pic's as I can!!

Thanks again to everyone that posted. I should be working on it either tonight (if i can convince the wife) or on the weekend!!

Cheers

Chris

[tangus89]

i would bleed the system before doing anything. as it could just be a bubble, causing the trouble, and the clamps wont work if there is air in the system.

[chazza]

All of this is to get the car up to the garage and start to strip and restore!!

When you say "up to the garage" do you mean that the car is already on your property? If so drive up in low-range and just turn the ignition off when you want to stop,

Cheers Charlie

[tibbsy]

When you say "up to the garage" do you mean that the car is already on your property? If so drive up in low-range and just turn the ignition off when you want to stop,

Cheers Charlie

Charlie,

I have thought about that, my property is quite steep. So it doesn't sit well with me not having brakes and being that I don't lnow the vehicle that well if something went wrong (like it jumps out of gear), it will be my neighbours house that stops me!!:(

So i will start with a brake bleed!!

[JDNSW]

Charlie,

I have thought about that, my property is quite steep. So it doesn't sit well with me not having brakes and being that I don't lnow the vehicle that well if something went wrong (like it jumps out of gear), it will be my neighbours house that stops me!!:(

So i will start with a brake bleed!!

Does the handbrake work? This will stop it quite effectively as long as you stay in low range first. And is probably simpler to fix, unless the shoes are covered in oil.

But you may find there is something easy to fix with the service brakes.

John

[ian62]

i have had a few 11a,s and the problem i would think is the fluid bypassing the seal in the master cylnder it has happened to me a few times everthing looks ok plenty of fluid but the peddle goes strait to the floor.

cheers ian

[tibbsy]

Well i've made some progress, the handbrake is no good!!!

But also made a rookie mistake, I looked into the M/C and saw fluid (the bonnet was in the way to see in properly. So raised the bonnet to the window and surprise there is fluid in the clutch reserviour but none in the brake side!!!

So in the morning (or over the weekend) I will be learning the fine art of brake bleeding!!!!

Thanks for the help, i'll keep you all posted!!!

[digger]

Thanks to everyone for the help!!
........<<snip>>
I have the Haynes work book so this should help.

All of this is to get the car up to the garage and start to strip and restore!! Once this starts there will definately be a project thread started. With as many pic's as I can!!

Thanks again to everyone that posted. I should be working on it either tonight (if i can convince the wife) or on the weekend!!

Cheers

Chris

Chris,
If you ask one of the nice mods on this forum they can change the thread title and this can be the project thread!! That way its all together!

Suggest title should be something like 2a 19?? "fred'(whatever the name and year are!) project thread..so it can cover everything..


cheers

[tibbsy]

Sounds good!!

Well there has been progress this morning!! Filled up the brake reservoir and as long as I keeper pumping the brakes I got a pedal!!! And it stopped (or should I say slowed) the truck!!!

"Reg" is now away in the garage!! Wife maybe ****ed as she way asleep and had to pass her window... Sorry dear!!

Now I need to get some jobs around the house done and I can start the strip!!!

[drifter]

Well done on your first repair! There will be many to come. Best of luck with them.

[Johnno1969]

Well done Chris! We look forward to your progress.

Cheers,

John

[korg20000bc]

Whenever I read the heading of this topic I am always waiting for a punch-line.

Like that "My dog has no nose..."

[wrinklearthur]

Hi Chris

I have achieved the best results when bleeding the brakes, by pumping the brake fluid backwards through the lines, from the wheel cylinders up to the reservoir.

Good luck with your restoration.

Cheers Arthur

[Johnno1969]

I seem to remember blokes talking about pressurising the system at the master cylinder end (putting a valve on a screw cap onto the "jam tin" fluid reservoir) to get a similar result.

[tibbsy]

Well thanks again for your help so far!!!

Yep - my truck's name is "Reg" and this the start of my resto / build thread!!!

Now just to let anyone who is watching know, there may be a delay between now and the start!! Jobs around the house to keep the beautiful wife happy!!!!

The plan will be:
- strip back to a rolling chassis - keeping a detailed photo library (think the chassis will need some tender love and care)
- rebuild from there assessing the level of rebuild vs need of rebuild!!
- I like the rough look so not too concerned that the body is perfect, but want good mechanical condition

Eventually I want to replace the Holden 186 with an original diesel.

Will update again once I start!!!

[Lostkiwi]

Thanks for the update
Looking forward to more .......hurry up and get the house work done:D
Good luck and have fun

Cheers
Neilo

[tibbsy]

Well it's been a while (and no the work around the house is not finished!!), but while the boss was out last night I started to strip the Landy!!

Progress:

Doors are off
Roof off
Bonnet off
Started removing the front wings.
So I have encountered the first of many rusted / seized nuts, bend panels that mean you can't get a spanner on the bolt head, the loads of dirt that fall out from behind everything (i think half the weight of the cars is the dirt / rust that is stored in every nook and cranny!!)

I will upload photo's as I go!

I have purchased a welder... now I need to refresh the skills on the welding front!!

Cheers
Tibbsy

[tibbsy]

First wing off working on the next!!

[Ratel10mm]

Excellent, I'd been looking forward to reading your progress.

For what it may be worth, I've found a product called Yield is really good for rusted threads. It sprays on like WD40 & works like WD40 on Speed. Using this stuff, the only times I've ended up using the old heat trick (so far) have been when the thread's been Loctited.

[tibbsy]

Well a little more progress... the second wing is now off!!!

Plan tonight (hopefully) is to remove the windscreen and start to remove the interior (seats, seat panels, floor panels...)

I will take more photo's (hopefully better ones too!!)

[tibbsy]

I little more (progress is slow, lots of rusted soild nuts and bolts!!)

Seats out

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/%3Ca%20href=%22http://s1168.photobucket.com/albums/r496/Tibbsy9999/?action=view&amp;current=Seatbase130432012.jpg%22%20ta rget=%22_blank%22%3E%3Cimg%20src=%22http://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/r496/Tibbsy9999/Seatbase130432012.jpg%22%20border=%220%22%20alt=%2 2Photobucket%22%3E%3C/a%3Ehttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/04/894.jpg

LHS floor pan is out, all nuts and bolts sheared rather than loosened!! RHS soaking in "penetrate"

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/04/895.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/04/896.jpg

Didn't realise that the front drivers seat slides back and forth

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/04/897.jpg

I noticed while taking the seats out that there is 2 fuel filler (one on each side of the truck) so does that mean there are 2 tanks? Are the connected?

More soon!!

PS first rebuild so bare with me!!

[tibbsy]

Window out[/URL]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/04/668.jpg


Seat panel off (that was harder than I thought - nuts and bolts rust as one!!) Grinder, cold chiesel, drill and penatrate!!!

(http://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/r496/Tibbsy9999/Windowoff14042012.jpg)[U]https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/04/669.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/04/670.jpg

It doesn't look like the second fuel tank is connected? How are they normally connected? Is it a reserve tank?

[shorty943]

I found my second tank was connected to the main tank with a Smiths electric fuel pump and control switch on the dash panel.

[Lostkiwi]

One of the wrecks i pulled apart for my rebuild had twin tanks. All it had was the fuel lines running into a three way valve So was just a matter of switching from one tank to the other.

[Ratel10mm]

My SIII has twin tanks, and did have an annoying 2 valve set up where the taps had 4 positions each!
Anyway I've ditched them on Blknight.aus' advice. The main is now direct to the original lift pump via the filter etc. & the secondary will be plumbed to the aux. input on the filter housing via an electric pump & sedimenter assembly when I have time. No return to the secondary tank, that way the return will end up in the main tank or I can use the system to fill the main from the secondary if I so choose.

[tibbsy]

Thanks to everyone regarding the second tank, i found that the second tank is also damaged (where the filler connects to the tank the tube is cracked!!)

Well the tub is off pics below!!! And the chassis is not as bad under all that dirt as I thought it would be!! I will definately need to replace the rear most crossmember (as you will see in the photo's)!! Still more digging to do!!

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/04/356.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/04/357.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/04/358.jpg


Next bulkhead and dash!!

[tibbsy]

The rear crossmember???? I'm in Victoria, can anyone suggest the best place to start to look for a replacement (either old savaged or new)?? Is it something that can be fabricated (DIY)?

Cheers

[Ozdunc]

If you can weld, or are willing to learn, I would think that building a rear cross member wouldn't be that hard from a design POV, and there are improvements you could make to stop the mud build up in the OEM design. Or incorporate a 2" hitch hole.

It would all depend on how true to the original design you wish to keep it.

[tibbsy]

I know enough to learn to weld!! And I have a 150 amp Mig Welder. Which has always been my intension. I like original but i'm not too concerned!! As long as it look close enough!!

My original thought was to fabricate myself, is there somewhere that I can get a detailed dimensional drawing of the original??

Can you explain more about "2" hitch hole"

[Ozdunc]

Dunno about a dimensional drawing, but you should be able to get the dimensions off your knackered one. Measure it up, then build a cardboard mock up, edit shape, size as necessary, then transfer it to steel.

The 2" hitch is as you see on Hayman Reece towbars, 'cept rather than bolting the towbar under the x-member/chassis you incorporate the hole into the x-member itself. That way you don't compromise departure angles. You may need some additional bracing behind the x-member if you go down this route, depending on what you wish to carry/tow.

Cheers

[VK3UTE]

Hi tibbsy

The usual place in Blackburn has new crossmembers at a reasonable price, their service is good too. Enjoying the tread, keep the pics coming:)

Cheers Simon

[tibbsy]

Busy weekend!! Bulkhead is now out!

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/05/1030.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/05/1548.jpg

Mind you I had help.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/05/1549.jpg

I started to remove the engine and almost had it out, only there is one bolt that has caused be pain! It behind the cutch cylinder and I can’t get into it. Well i can I just have to remove the front drive shaft (which I would have to do anyway).

Another thing I notice that there is a hand throttle on the bulkhead, I looked in the manual and the hand throttle was on the diesel models? Does this mean that the car was a diesel (before they put the Holden engine in) or could you get this option on petrol too?? I'd toyed with the idea of a diesel in the long run when I go back to standard.

Will update again soon!

[JDNSW]

.....
Another thing I notice that there is a hand throttle on the bulkhead, I looked in the manual and the hand throttle was on the diesel models? Does this mean that the car was a diesel (before they put the Holden engine in) or could you get this option on petrol too?? I'd toyed with the idea of a diesel in the long run when I go back to standard.

Will update again soon!

Hand throttle was optional on all models, came with some extras such as the capstan winch. Most of the Series Landrovers I have had to do with have had them fitted, petrol or diesel, so I don't think you can assume anything from its presence. The original engine type should be apparent from the chassis number.

John

[tibbsy]

Well i think the body number is 7066 and the serial is 1097066?? I'm not sure that this is the chassis number?? Where would I find it?

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/05/1523.jpg

[turkeybrain]

The chassis number can be located on the left hand rear most spring hanger. Look it up on CalVIN (Clifton Scientific Text Services, the Netherlands (http://www.clifton.nl/index.html?calvin.html)) to work out which motor you had.

Nice progress, keep up the good work!

Cheers,
Martin

[tibbsy]

I'll look for that Chassis number, i think that it's there under the dirt and rust!!

I little more progress - Engine out

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/05/1374.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/05/1375.jpg

Not much will happen this weekend (6hr enduro moutain bike race!!!). The next tasks will be to start to clean the chassis. I've decided that there isn't much point removing the gear box (as i'm not going to build it), so I will clean around it and paint around it. I've noticed that the spring bushes are gone and the spring has been hitting the chassis a little. So in addition to replacing the rear cross memeber and welding the bumper mount, i will need to replace a small section under the rear spring mounts at the front of the chassis!

Will update again soon!!

[Ozdunc]

You must be off to the convict 100.
This will be my 1st year missing it, im pretty gutted.
Good luck, and don't forget to pack the cement pills to get you through that last 30km

[medic455]

Busy weekend!! Bulkhead is now out!

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/05/1030.jpg



Have a look through the REMLR pages and Site, should show you clearly how the Military mounted the second fuel tank and plumbed it in on thier II and IIA fleet. Also how they ran the fuel guages, it is a fairly simple system (for the simple people that had to work on them........:banana:....)

[tibbsy]

Thanks medic455 i'll search through there forum!!

Another question for the team!! I've started to clean up the chassis, i hitting it with a wirebrush on a drill and wirebrush on an anglegrinder.

So my question is - how clean does the chassis need to be for painting?


Keeping in mind that this is not a show piece, I will be driving, 4wding and using this vehicle as it was intended!! so i'm not concerned so much by the look of the paint work (on the chassis) as i am by the paint retension. I'm painting the chassis with a chassis black paint and after cleaning i've taken the dirty and rust off, but there is still some of the orginal paint on the chassis!! Is it going to cause me concern still having the paint on the chassis??

Cheers

[JDNSW]

Thanks medic455 i'll search through there forum!!

Another question for the team!! I've started to clean up the chassis, i hitting it with a wirebrush on a drill and wirebrush on an anglegrinder.

So my question is - how clean does the chassis need to be for painting?


Keeping in mind that this is not a show piece, I will be driving, 4wding and using this vehicle as it was intended!! so i'm not concerned so much by the look of the paint work (on the chassis) as i am by the paint retension. I'm painting the chassis with a chassis black paint and after cleaning i've taken the dirty and rust off, but there is still some of the orginal paint on the chassis!! Is it going to cause me concern still having the paint on the chassis??

Cheers

Ideally, you would go to bare metal, but realistically this is hardly practical. If existing paint is dry and absolutely free of any trace of oil or dirt, and if the surface is slightly roughened, paint will almost always adhere satisfactorily. However, read the instructions on the paint you are using - some may require a barrier over existing paint.

John

[tibbsy]

The dirt is all but gone using the wirebrush, but is there a grease / oil remover that would be recommended?

[JDNSW]

The dirt is all but gone using the wirebrush, but is there a grease / oil remover that would be recommended?

Have a talk to your paint shop, otherwise I would wash using a professional quality (i.e.expensive) degreaser, allow to dry and wipe down with turps.

John

[chazza]

The dirt is all but gone using the wirebrush, but is there a grease / oil remover that would be recommended?

Rough it up first with abrasive paper; a flap wheel in the angle grinder would work well. Treat any rust with a converter and wire-brush, or sand after a couple of days.

Buy some tack-cloths and a degreaser from the paint shop when you get the primer and and top-coat; Septone Prepwash and Prepsol are two product names that spring to mind for de-greasing.

Then de-grease everywhere on the chassis, followed immediately it is dry with a tack-cloth, then apply the primer. Use Prepsol and and the tack-cloth between each coat,

Cheers Charlie

[Warb]

Tack cloths etc. aren't really required when painting a chassis with chassis black, surely? A bit of dust on a gloss body panel will look terrible, but a chassis?

It does need to be degreased, or the paint won't stick. Water based degreasers are OK for light deposits, but heavy oil contamination resulting from years of oil leaks mixing with dirt often require solvent based products. SuperCheap sell one, buried in between the water based versions. Make sure you get a degreaser not a "truckwash", as truckwashes often have waxes and other components designed to protect paint and make it look good - which is exactly what you are trying to remove! Then pressure wash, allow to dry and inspect. Repeat until no sign of oil and dirt remains! This process is ideally carried out before any further cleaning with wire brushes, because otherwise the brush gets covered in oily dirt which is then spread all over the chassis, and lovely new steel gets wet and starts to rust again.

It's also worthwhile to clean the inside of the chassis. I have a drain cleaner attachment for the powerwasher, that allows me to powerwash the inside of chassis rails. It's amazing how much crud comes out! After painting the outside of the chassis, the "clean" inside can be sprayed with something like Penetrol, using a suitable applicator, to stop it rotting from the inside.

Sandblasting is the ideal method of preparing a chassis (but not body panels, without special consideration), but even then you should clean and degrease prior to blasting, as the "wet" dirt is harder to remove with the sandblaster and the oil is left in a thin film - and washing the chassis AFTER sandblasting it just introduces more rust!

The basic rule is that paint retention is based on the weakest link. If your new paint bonds completely with the old paint, but that old paint drops off the chassis, you are no further forward. So if the old paint (and make sure its paint, not oil and dirt!) is hard to remove, then anything that sticks to that paint will stay in place. But if the old paint is easy to remove, then your new paint will fall off with it!

The other thing to consider is whether the new paint WILL stick to the old paint, or react with it, or just flake off. The only way to tell for sure is to test a small area. Roughing up the old paint is always required, it gives the new paint something to key to - gloss finishes don't take paint well.

Traditional bituminous chassis black doesn't normally require a primer, though will work with one and a primer may provide additional protection. The more advanced paints, up to and including the POR-15 and KBS products require far more intensive preparation. Between the two extremes are various products sold by Bunnings etc., urethane or epoxy based. You more or less get what you pay for. Bituminous chassis black is cheap and easy, but rust can spread underneath it without being seen. It used to be used extensively by second hand car salesmen wanting to make a rust bucket look good. The high end POR-15 style products can produce an excellent finish, from both functional and aesthetic viewpoints, but cost a small fortune and have very strict preparation and application requirements. KillRust and Metal Armour style products (and Hammerite) also work well, but require more prep than bitumen.

If you've stripped the chassis of all other components, and you want a long lasting vehicle and to make sure that no hidden weak spots and rust are left, it's worth investigating getting it sandblasted. Also, when everything else has been removed, PeterG has a technique of putting a pole through the PTO holes and balancing the whole thing on supports at each end - I copied him but made a pair of stands to support a chassis on a length of 2"NB pipe, so the entire chassis can be rotated easily. It removes the need to crawl about trying to paint to underside!

[chazza]

Tack cloths etc. aren't really required when painting a chassis with chassis black, surely? A bit of dust on a gloss body panel will look terrible, but a chassis?



Well; as I had recommended sanding or brushing, both of which generate dust, a bloke would be mad to spray expensive paint onto dust, when for the lousy $2 it costs for a tack-cloth and the 5 minutes of time expended, it more or less guarantees that the paint will stick.

Much the same as the advice you give later in your post,

Cheers Charlie

[Ratel10mm]

Tack cloths etc. aren't really required when painting a chassis with chassis black, surely? A bit of dust on a gloss body panel will look terrible, but a chassis?

It does need to be degreased, or the paint won't stick. Water based degreasers are OK for light deposits, but heavy oil contamination resulting from years of oil leaks mixing with dirt often require solvent based products. SuperCheap sell one, buried in between the water based versions. Make sure you get a degreaser not a "truckwash", as truckwashes often have waxes and other components designed to proect paint and make it look good - which is exactly what you are trying to remove! Then pressure wash, allow to dry and inspect. Repeat until no sign of oil and dirt remains! This process is ideally carried out before any further cleaning with wire brushes, because otherwise the brush gets covered in oily dirt which is then spread all over the chassis, and lovely new steel gets wet and starts to rust again.

It's also worthwhile to clean the inside of the chassis. I have a drain cleaner attachment for the powerwasher, that allows me to powerwash the inside of chassis rails. It's amazing how much crud comes out! After painting the outside of the chassis, the "clean" inside can be sprayed with something like Penetrol, using a suitable applicator, to stop it rotting from the inside.

Sandblasting is the ideal method of preparing a chassis (but not body panels, without special consideration), but even then you should clean and degrease prior to blasting, as the "wet" dirt is harder to remove with the sandblaster and the oil is left in a thin film - and washing the chassis AFTER sandblasting it just introduces more rust!

The basic rule is that paint retention is based on the weakest link. If your new paint bonds completely with the old paint, but that old paint drops off the chassis, you are no further forward. So if the old paint (and make sure its paint, not oil and dirt!) is hard to remove, then anything that sticks to that paint will stay in place. But if the old paint is easy to remove, then your new paint will fall off with it!

The other thing to consider is whether the new paint WILL stick to the old paint, or react with it, or just flake off. The only way to tell for sure is to test a small area. Roughing up the old paint is always required, it gives the new paint something to key to - gloss finishes don't take paint well.

Traditional bituminous chassis black doesn't normally require a primer, though will work with one and a primer may provide additional protection. The more advanced paints, up to and including the POR-15 and KBS products require far more intensive preparation. Between the two extremes are various products sold by Bunnings etc., urethane or epoxy based. You more or less get what you pay for. Bituminous chassis black is cheap and easy, but rust can spread underneath it without being seen. It used to be used extensively by second hand car salesmen wanting to make a rust bucket look good. The high end POR-15 style products can produce an excellent finish, from both functional and aesthetic viewpoints, but cost a small fortune and have very strict preparation and application requirements. KillRust and Metal Armour style products (and Hammerite) also work well, but require more prep than bitumen.

If you've stripped the chassis of all other components, and you want a long lasting vehicle and to make sure that no hidden weak spots and rust are left, it's worth investigating getting it sandblasted. Also, when everything else has been removed, PeterG has a technique of putting a pole through the PTO holes and balancing the whole thing on supports at each end - I copied him but made a pair of stands to support a chassis on a length of 2"NB pipe, so the entire chassis can be rotated easily. It removes the need to crawl about trying to paint to underside!

Please; Where, oh where do you get Hammerite from over here? I've been looking for it ever sice I moved here without success.

[juddy]

Go to inspirations at Oxenford, they have all the hammerite you will need.

[Warb]

Please; Where, oh where do you get Hammerite from over here? I've been looking for it ever sice I moved here without success.

Looking at Hammerite Australia - Metal Paint (http://www.hammerite.com.au), it looks like it's sold through The Flood Company, who also are responsible for Penetrol.

I also note that Permanent Paint Coatings (www.pppco.com.au (http://www.pppco.com.au)) sell it online, as well as POR-15

I used to use Hammerite (and Smoothrite) in the UK, where it was de rigeur to have Hammerite on old cars. Recently I've been testing out the POR-15 and KBS products, as well as various metal paints available from the DIY stores. So far I'd say that most of them in fact work fairly well! I've had some cast iron pieces that I sandblasted and painted with KillRust (primer and top coat) a couple of years ago, that have been out in the weather since they were painted and don't show any signs of failure.

[Warb]

Well; as I had recommended sanding or brushing, both of which generate dust, a bloke would be mad to spray expensive paint onto dust, when for the lousy $2 it costs for a tack-cloth and the 5 minutes of time expended, it more or less guarantees that the paint will stick.

Much the same as the advice you give later in your post,

Cheers Charlie

Perhaps, but the original poster stated he was going to use chassis black, which - lets be honest - isn't going to be affected by the small amount of dust that should be all that is left at that point. Tack rags are the last 0.1% dust removal "perfection" product (used after vacuuming, air dusters etc.), whilst bitumen chassis black is the other end of the scale!!

On the other hand, if I was painting the chassis with a thin film product for show, then I'd certainly want it totally dust free!

[Ratel10mm]

Thanks Juddy & Warb. :)

I've tried online a few times, but kept getting dead pages & the like. Maybe it was my laptop??
I'm really surprised Bunnings don't carry it. As you say Warb, it's de rigeur back in the UK & I reckon just what I want for rust treatment on plant here at work as one coat of Hammerite or Smoothrite instead of 2 or 3 steps with Rust Guard will save me a lot of time & therefore the taxpayer some money. Hopefully we have an account one of those 2 co's.

Sorry for the thread hijack Tibbsy.

[chazza]

Perhaps, but the original poster stated he was going to use chassis black, which - lets be honest - isn't going to be affected by the small amount of dust that should be all that is left at that point. Tack rags are the last 0.1% dust removal "perfection" product (used after vacuuming, air dusters etc.), whilst bitumen chassis black is the other end of the scale!!

On the other hand, if I was painting the chassis with a thin film product for show, then I'd certainly want it totally dust free!

Well in my book - dust will stick to anything but nothing sticks to dust.

Depends what is meant by "chassis black" perhaps; I assumed it was paint,

Cheers Charlie

[Warb]

Granted, a thick layer of dust will indeed cause problems for a sprayed paint, but there should never be a thick layer of dust. Tack rags are used as a final wipe down, following all other prep, on a surface that is already considered to be clean and dust free. Their job is to remove the tiny amounts of dust, hair etc. that may be on the surface immediately prior to painting, and that may cause blemishes and marks in fine finishes.

Generally speaking, a tack rag (after use) should show little dirt - if it has a great deal of dirt on it then the prep wasn't up to scratch in the first place. The tiny amounts of dust that a tack rag would normally be expected to encounter wouldn't be likely to affect the adhesion of any chassis paint.

I've never used a tack rag on a chassis, for the reasons outlines above, but I'd be interested to know how well it worked. Most LR chassis that I've seen are fairly well covered in what appears to be "factory" weld spatter and rough edges, and given the nature of the vehicle and the apparent originality of the spatter I've made no effort to remove them, and they even survived sandblasting. Do they end up coated with small bits of tack rag that have caught and been torn off? That's often a problem with cleaning "industrial" metal surfaces (chassis, tractors etc.), cleaning rags shred themselves on the rough surfaces and do more harm than good!

[This 88" is the first LR I've restored from scratch, but over the last 30 years I've done many cars, tractors, motorcycles and boats]

[tibbsy]

Another update on progress!! (photo's to follow very soon)

List of acheivements over the last couple of weeks:

One of the fuel tanks is out (i'll get back to the fuel tank)
Rear springs off (that was a mission!!)
Rear diff out
Cleaned about half of the chassis
Painted about 1/3 of the chassis
Fuel tank - the pipe the the filler tube attaches to on the top of the fuel tank has a crack where it connects to the tank and the breather hose spiggot has snapped. Can this be welded? Or am i better to just replace the tank?

I have found some juice rust in one of the rear outrigger (front of the driverside rear spring mount), So that will be a challenge to fix!! but that is part of the fun! By the way I have to say outriggers for the springs are a great dirt holder!! I think there was just under 1/2 a ton of dirt jammed into the outrigger (both sides)

Cheers

[Warb]

Before you consider fixing the tank, clean it very thoroughly indeed and see if it has any other rust. As you have noticed, the outriggers catch a great deal of dirt, and dirt is trapped between the tank and the outrigger. My '58 tank was almost perfect on all faces except the one that traps dirt against the rear outrigger. The tank had several pinholes in that area.......

As for fixing it, it was originally soldered and has been full of petrol (?). Welding runs the risk of exploding the fuel vapours and/or melting the solder. I know people who have filled tanks with water and put them in a water bath with just the damaged section above water. That keeps the remainder cool and prevents the soldered joints melting, and it should also prevent explosion! Then they weld or solder the repair.

HOWEVER, my steel fabricator who is VERY good at what he does, will never under any circumstances weld a fuel tank. He restores old tractors and stationary engines and has done for many years, but he won't weld a fuel tank. He says that no matter how careful you may be, there is always the risk of fuel that is trapped in the seams (even in a tank that has been "dry" for years) being vaporised by the heat and then catching fire.

[chazza]

Fuel tank - the pipe the the filler tube attaches to on the top of the fuel tank has a crack where it connects to the tank and the breather hose spiggot has snapped.

Don't weld - use a very large tinsman's soldering iron and Baker's Soldering Fluid to melt the solder and allow the crack to flow together. Make sure you heat the bit well away from the tank,

Cheers Charlie

[tibbsy]

Thanks for that!!

Also i found the chassis number while cleaning the chassis: 25303488a

253Model: Land Rover, Series IIA
Body type: Basic
Wheel base: 109in
Engine: petrol
Model years: 1962-1971
Destination: Completely knocked down (CKD), right-hand drive (RHD)03488Serial numberADesign: Unmodified
Suffix used on SIIA from October 1961 till March 1963, and on SIII from 1971 till 1973

And I now have a land rover 4 cylinder, well i will have when i pick it up!! $120 bargin!!

Photo's and progress will have to wait a week or so, just been sent to Mackay for a week!!

[tibbsy]

Picked up the new engine today!! And some orginal manuals!!

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/06/611.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/06/612.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/06/613.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/06/614.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/06/615.jpg

[JDNSW]

That engine is somewhat older than your 2a, but should work, depending of course on condition. Strictly speaking you need to modify it to the later crankcase ventilation system to be legal, but it is very unlikely anyone will ever check!

John

[tibbsy]

Older??? Looks like I've been given a bit of a bum steer!!! Thought it was s11a or s111!!!

So a couple of questions:

How old do you think it is?
How can I tell the age?
And what are the mod's you talk about??

Either way it will be the new heart for my rover, I still think it will be better than the Holden 186!!

Cheers

[JDNSW]

Older??? Looks like I've been given a bit of a bum steer!!! Thought it was s11a or s111!!!

So a couple of questions:

How old do you think it is?
How can I tell the age?
And what are the mod's you talk about??

Either way it will be the new heart for my rover, I still think it will be better than the Holden 186!!

Cheers

The giveaway is the crankcase breather arrangement - on that engine it has an aircleaner on the oil filler and on the top of the rocker cover. From about 1968, in Australia, positive crankcase ventilation was required, with a different arrangement - a blank cap for the oil filler, and a small diameter pipe from the side of the oil filler to a positive crankcase ventilation valve between the carbie and the rocker cover, and then into the manifold. The breather on the top of the rocker cover was replaced with a dummy one and a hose to the elbow above the carburetter.

Of course the crankcase ventilation on a later engine may have been swapped!

It is, however, definitely a Series 2a/3 engine - a Series 2 engine would have a window on the flywheel housing for a timing mark on the flywheel that is missing on that engine - should have a pointer on the crankshaft pulley. As you will find from your manual, the Series 2a had a generator not aan alternator - stick to the alternator! From what I can see, the clutch plate is a 2a one - the S3 had a diaphragm clutch. A diaphragm clutch can be fitted to the 2a, but the pressure plate is not the same as a S3, it has a spacer attached to it as the position of the throwout bearing is about 1cm different.

Hope this helps,

John

[tibbsy]

Well haven't posted in a while, but some work has happened!

I've removed the bushes from the rear springs, cold chisel, drill with a piece of wire in the chuck (great for getting the rubber out!!)

Tools used!!

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/1059.jpg

Progress!

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/1060.jpg

I also started to strip the new engine, alternator off, intake and exhaust manifold, head...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/1061.jpg

Gone!

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/1062.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/1063.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/1064.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/1065.jpg

More soon!!

[tibbsy]

Well it has been a whole between posts...and not much has changed.

I'm living in Townsville at the moment and my LR is in Melbourne!!

Being that I'm home for Christmas I've managed to convince the boss that some time in the shed was needed.

I cleaned and primed the fan and the brake pedal assembly.....

7045370454704557045670457

Just a lick of black and they'll look great!!

[tibbsy]

Well I'm back in Melbourne, so work on the landy has resumed!

Engine finally gets a lick of paint...

83929
83930
83931

[SII Josh]

nice work

[tibbsy]

A bit more assembly:
Exhaust manifold
Intake manifold
Oil breather
Starter motor
84522
84523
84524

Painted:
Fan
Brake pedal assembly

[tibbsy]

85211

Alternator now fitted
Fan and fan belt pulley painted and fitted
I still need a carbie and distributor - any suggestions in Victoria for second hand.....

Next (once the oil filter is fitted), it back to the chassis. Finish removing the gear box and steering box. Then the front diff and springs....

[tibbsy]

So I've started cleaning up the front diff.
Is it worth stripping the diff down and replace the gaskets and seals? Is it difficult to do so?

[tibbsy]

Work in progress

[Ozdunc]

So I've started cleaning up the front diff.
Is it worth stripping the diff down and replace the gaskets and seals? Is it difficult to do so?

Replacing the pinion seal can be done without pulling the diff.
If the diff casing is leaking then you'd need to separate the 2 halves and replace the gasket there. You have to pull the axles and then pull out the diff carrier, but apart from it being rather heavy, you should have to mess with preload or gear meshing assuming the bearings haven't been running in sludge for the last 10 years. Just replace the gasket and bolt it back together.

I would replace the seals in the ends of the axles though

[tibbsy]

Thanks Ozdunc!!

I was hoping that would be the case, the oil that came out of the diff was quite clean.

So a strip, clean, paint and gasket change is on the cards.....pics to follow

[tibbsy]

Begun to pull the front diff apart tonight, about a third of the way there!

85902

85903

I noticed that where the bearing sits for the steering swivel there is some wear, as you can see in the pic below. Is this likely to cause any concerns? Should I look to replace the swivel or will it be OK?

85904

85905

[67hardtop]

Looks like you need to replace the bearing cup and cone there. Check the railco bush (at the other end) has no sideways play. if it has replace that as well. Then set up the swivel housing preload as per workshop manual. You can buy a swivel housing rebuild kit somewhere out there from a land rover parts supplier:D.

Cheers Rod:wasntme:

[JDNSW]

Begun to pull the front diff apart tonight, about a third of the way there!

85902

85903

I noticed that where the bearing sits for the steering swivel there is some wear, as you can see in the pic below. Is this likely to cause any concerns? Should I look to replace the swivel or will it be OK?

85904

85905

No, you definitely need to replace the bearing cup and cone. This is on the bottom. The top has a fibre lined bush and steel pin, both of which will almost certainly need replacing. Although the bearing cup and the bush are pressed in, they can be removed with a drift (preferably brass) and new ones fitted with a vice.

Read the manual carefully, and adjust the preload as specified. One trap for the unwary is that of the studs attaching the steering arm, one is a special fitted stud, which must stay in the same location, and must not be replaced with an ordinary stud.

John

[Ozdunc]

one is a special fitted stud, which must stay in the same location, and must not be replaced with an ordinary stud.

John

Now I never knew that!
How can you tell if the stud is in the wrong place? does it have an id mark?

And what are the consequences of fitting it incorrectly?

[JDNSW]

Now I never knew that!
How can you tell if the stud is in the wrong place? does it have an id mark?

I do not know! I never remove the studs. All I can suggest is if you have removed the studs, check their fit in the holes in the arm, and find which stud is a tight fit in which hole, and put it in that location.

And what are the consequences of fitting it incorrectly?

The steering arm can move relative the the swivel, resulting in free play in the steering and ultimately steering failure unless detected and fixed. Once it has started moving, it is likely both the stud and arm will have to be replaced.

John

[tibbsy]

Thanks to everyone for your help!!

We I've continued to disassembly the front diff.....

86020

86021

86022

[tibbsy]

Re-assembly of the front diff has begun, fitting a railko swivel re-build kit

87431

87432

[tibbsy]

94916

94917

94918

Well there has been some progress (although long over due).

Top of the chassis is clean, rust free and painted.

Next step rear diff and gear box!

[JayBee75]

Tibbsy
What did you do to strip back the chassis before paint?

Cheers
JB

[crackers]

Tibbsy
What did you do to strip back the chassis before paint?

Cheers
JB

Ooo, Ooo, I know this one. Lots of toothbrushes, lots of degreaser and lots and lots of pieces of sandpaper. In three years, you'll have a stripped chassis and forearms like Ken Rosewall's :D

[tibbsy]

Wire brush on a grinder, wire brush in my hand, way too much elbow grease and clean away any grease or oil.... Then paint!! I've painted by hand with chassis paint and a paint brush (2 coats). I'm not looking for a show peice, only to reduce the chances of returned rust!!

[tibbsy]

Crackers have you been watching....

Once it's a rolling chassis I'll flush the inside of the chassis (still a lot of dirt in there) and the fish oil (or something like that) the inside, should be better than new!!

[tibbsy]

95561

95563

Well the first step in the re-assembly!

Fitted the engine into the chassis tonight, next clean the gearbox, fit the hand brake (full of oil!), then rear diff rebuild.

I've got the week off next week, so should be some progress made.

[crackers]

Engine going in before the running gear? I'd have thought having wheels and suspension would be your first move.

Is that blue the factory engine colour?

[tibbsy]

Would have fitted the running gear first, but I'm waiting for Springs (father in law is sourcing them), that and needed to free up the engine stand. Can lift the engine at any stage as it is only sitting on the mounting blocks.

[crackers]

Would have fitted the running gear first, but I'm waiting for Springs (father in law is sourcing them), that and needed to free up the engine stand. Can lift the engine at any stage as it is only sitting on the mounting blocks.

Dammit, that's a rational reason :eek: I thought they were forbidden :cool:

Am I right in imagining you need to buy/acquire/make an engine stand for the long term, but can get away with hiring a crane for only the removal and re-installation? Do you need a crane? I know they make it easier but with all the body off, and a strong 22 year old son, maybe... or is that a silly attempt to save money.

I've just waded through DaOot's story, I'll start yours at the beginning tomorrow night (no concentration these days).

[tibbsy]

Engine stand and crane - I purchased both, figured it would be an investment! I've used the engine crane a lot (lifting gear box, engine, diffs, even the chassis!). The engine stand is quite handy too, I've take the engine off the stand and will use it to hold the gearbox while I work on it!

[crackers]

I didn't consider the extra uses for the crane... and you can always sell the thing after the project. I'm thinking of an engine stand where you can rotate the engine because at some point, she'll have to be stripped and rebuilt (though I'm hoping to get her running for awhile as is)

[tibbsy]

Crackers,

No not the factory colour, The function of the car and being able to drive it is more important to me than detailed originality. At the end of the day it's a land rover, my view is they were a high functional car and it didn't matter what colour, how dented or what the condition as long as it did the function you needed or wanted!

So my restore is centred around being original but no fussy!!

[tibbsy]

So the spring I have are not real flash (apparently my rover was left in a puddle for a while, we so the previous owner said), well I'm having trouble finding new spring particularly for the front. Can anyone recommend someone in Victoria that can rebuild leaf springs?

[JayBee75]

For $120 plus freight have you considered new?

Suspension - Series (http://www.dls-uk.co.uk/series-3/suspension.html?limit=25&p=2)

Even locally?

I just got some quotes for various things here locally to rebuild and it's cheaper in a number of circumstances to go new....:(

[JDNSW]

For $120 plus freight have you considered new?

Suspension - Series (http://www.dls-uk.co.uk/series-3/suspension.html?limit=25&p=2)

Even locally?

I just got some quotes for various things here locally to rebuild and it's cheaper in a number of circumstances to go new....:(

A consideration is that one of the advantages of the Series suspension is that the springs use an unusually large number of leaves, thinner than usual, allowing longer travel without approaching the elastic limits of the steel. This thinner spring steel has not been available since metrication (fewer, thicker, leaves were fitted to the 1981 S3 I stripped), and the new ones available today, as far as I know, all have fewer, thicker leaves. (LWB rear springs are thicker anyway, except for station wagon springs)

Hence it is usually preferable, if possible, to revive the original springs.

John

[crackers]

A consideration is that one of the advantages of the Series suspension is that the springs use an unusually large number of leaves, thinner than usual, allowing longer travel without approaching the elastic limits of the steel. This thinner spring steel has not been available since metrication (fewer, thicker, leaves were fitted to the 1981 S3 I stripped), and the new ones available today, as far as I know, all have fewer, thicker leaves. (LWB rear springs are thicker anyway, except for station wagon springs)

Hence it is usually preferable, if possible, to revive the original springs.

John

You don't want some rivet counter climbing under there with a set of vernier calipers :eek:

[JDNSW]

You don't want some rivet counter climbing under there with a set of vernier calipers :eek:

It is not rivet counting - it is a matter of performance. And you do not have to crawl under, at least for the front springs, nor do you need vernier calipers - just have to look at them.

John

[tibbsy]

John,

I do intend to look at refurbishing the old springs if possible. The challenge I'm having is the front springs are quite back. The previous owner drove the car around the paddocks for a while with the bushes completely worn. So the leaves are badly worn to the point where they have snapped. A couple of the spring guys I've spoken to have said getting spring steel in the non metric size will be difficult.

I'll keep you posted as to my progress!

[harry]

I am sure there are plenty of secondhand springs available, try ho-hars on this forum, they save bits for us to use.

[tibbsy]

96110

Stripped the rear axle and diff, replaced the bearings, gaskets and painted. New drum pads, bushes and springs. All installed!!

I've found an old bloke to make me some front springs, they should be ready some time this week.

Gearbox, so there was a leak of oil into my handbrake, i found that there was a gasket missing.... bought a new gasket and will reassembly the handbrake soon and refit gear box into the chassis.

[crackers]

96110

Stripped the rear axle and diff, replaced the bearings, gaskets and painted. New drum pads, bushes and springs. All installed!!

I've found an old bloke to make me some front springs, they should be ready some time this week.

Gearbox, so there was a leak of oil into my handbrake, i found that there was a gasket missing.... bought a new gasket and will reassembly the handbrake soon and refit gear box into the chassis.

You rattle that off as though you did it after work today. I suspect it took a bit longer. Looks very nice though.

[JayBee75]

96110

Stripped the rear axle and diff, replaced the bearings, gaskets and painted. New drum pads, bushes and springs. All installed!!

I've found an old bloke to make me some front springs, they should be ready some time this week.

Gearbox, so there was a leak of oil into my handbrake, i found that there was a gasket missing.... bought a new gasket and will reassembly the handbrake soon and refit gear box into the chassis.

Did you take the diff out?

[tibbsy]

JayBee - yes but only to clean the axle housing and replace the housing to diff casing gasket.
Crackers - you're right I've had some holidays from work!! But I'm on a roll so want to keep up the momentum!

[tibbsy]

96170

Here you go!

[tibbsy]

Well it's been a while since I was last here!

I've recently renewed the work on my rover.

Tie rod ends replace and will be refitted to the chassis in the next couple of days.

Begun to pull the old uni joints out of the drive shafts, waiting on the replacement stock.

Stripping everything off the bulk head, hoping to have the bulk head sandblasted to reveal the extend f the repairs needed.

142401142402142403

[tibbsy]

Delivered the bulkhead to the sandblaster this afternoon, I should have it back Monday arvo (well what ever is left of it!!)

142444142445142446142447142448

[JDNSW]

Your tie rod ends look to be the ones threaded all the way, which are not original to the 2a. You should check that the bit of the tube that clamps on the tie rod end is threaded - the originals are unthreaded on both the tie rod end and the tube. You must not mix the two, as the clamping is not secure and may lead to loss of steering. The change was made in early S3 production, and either way will work, just don't mix them on the same link.

[tibbsy]

JDNSW - I'm a little confused, am I checking to see if on the inside of the tie rod tube the tread continues all the way to the open end of the tube?

[JDNSW]

JDNSW - I'm a little confused, am I checking to see if on the inside of the tie rod tube the tread continues all the way to the open end of the tube?

Yes. The 2a tubes has the last couple of centimetres unthreaded to clamp on an unthreaded shoulder on the tie rod end, where the later ones are threaded all the way to clamp on thread.

The clamps on your tubes look like the later ones, but I am not surre whether the change in clamp coincided with the change in tie rod ends.

One of the problems with these vehicles is that because of the interchangeability of parts over the years, it is quite usual for later parts to be found on your Landrover!

[tibbsy]

Thanks mate!! I'll have a look in more detail, may explain why they seemed to bottom out. When I measured the eye to eye as per the manual I couldn't reach the mark. Also last night when I sat the longer rod in place the tyres seemed to point outward. If I get a chance over the weekend I'll have a look and let you know!

[tibbsy]

JDNSW - Well I pulled the Tie rod ends off and you are right, the thread inside the shaft finished before the end of the shaft. So am I looking for a Tie Rod end that looks the same? ie there is a thread-less section before the head?

Is it the same with the shaft that goes from the steering box to the steering relay?

[JDNSW]

Yes to both questions. Assuming it still has the 2a original bits. These tie rod ends are harder to find, and some suppliers are (rather criminally) apparently not aware of the difference. I have got some from All Four X 4, but that was a while back.

[tibbsy]

Guys, thank you for the help with the Tie Rod ends, I have a new set of 6 on the way.

Well i have the firewall back and it's not any worse than I thought it would be.

I have 2 replacement panels on the way for the door securing panel (LH and RH).

I will cut and patch the rest, including the foot wells. I'll need to patch where the bulkhead was cut to fit the Holden 6 cylinder.

142540142541142542142543142544142545

[tibbsy]

Part delivery today, offside and nearside door panel for the bulkhead.

Hoping to get time on the weekend to start the rebuild.

142592

[JohnboyLandy]

Hi Tibbsy, where did you source the correct tie rod ends from ?

Thanks
John

[tibbsy]

British auto part - bayswater
Land Rover Parts - Home (http://www.roverparts.com.au)