diff blown

[Preacher]

05 TDV6 se120,000km 1st time to snatch a patrol out of a bog hole blew the rear diff - could still drive but ugly noise, thought some thing was rubbing the tail shaft if that can happen. is the d3 that weak that you can't even snatch another vehicle (not a hard snatch either) very disaluisioned

dj

[Mully]

Hiya DJ, sounds like it never got the fluid change it craves... there is a bit of info around now about making sure the diffs get serviced coz they like to crap out otherwise.... sad but true. All diffs need services obviously but there is some evidence about accelerated wear in ours for some odd reasons.

Might be a totally unrelated cause though.

Hope it works out and keep us posted.

Cheers.

[unseenone]

I can assist you in getting the parts, or another unit at a good price (fraction of what it would cost at a dealer or anywhere else. Send me a PM and I can provide you with some details if you need it.

[gghaggis]

I regularly snatch-recover people, never had a diff issue? Your's might be fluid related or just bad luck. When you recovered the Patrol, were both your rear wheels in contact with the ground?

Cheers,

Gordon

[Busman]

I have replaced both front & rear diff centres.
I do tow a 3 ton motor cruiser with my D3.
After a while the centres became very noisy under constant load.
After say 100,000k the bearings do start to degenerate.
The acutal diff centre bearings etc are made in France.
Bearings are hard to find, but Landrover do offer an exchange centre for around $1,200.00 plus fitting.
I have found a guy on the Gold Coast who can rebuild them now.
Try Nerang Differential Service, as he has replaced a few in recent months for various D3's.
Hope this helps:)

[unseenone]

You should be able to replace the Crown Wheel & Pinion with newly designed and improved version (for quietness and better wear). It would be worth considering when you have it apart.

The bearings I have seen are Timkin, made in Canada (OEM Only) and not available anywhere i've seen so far.

[Mully]

So is the consensus still to always get a diff done by a diff guy and not treat it as DIY?

[unseenone]

You could theoretically do it yourself, but I opted to pay a diff guy to remove and rebuild mine. If you want to modify the procedure you could remove it yourself, and bring it to a specialist.

It should be about a 2 hour job for removal and install of the diff and related parts (each) It would be about a 4 hour job or so to do the rebuild.

Keep in mind on the removal several factors, that may lead you to pay someone else to do it. A few other hints that will save you some time, as it took me forever to locate the P/N's for a couple of items.

1. The DIFF is HEAVY, it is much easier to have the vehicle on a lift, and then use a diff jack to ease it down. You need to be really careful not to bang, bend or torque on the locker spring gadget, which looks like a 3 inch hex nut sticking out of the diff, it is fragile. If you break it, and call LR to order one, they will laugh at you, as they try to sell you a new diff. You can see a picture if it sticking through the inside of the casting in the "housing and bits" picture.

2. You need to remove the exhaust, should not be too hard, the whole thing will drop as a unit.

3. You will need to replace the diff flange bolts P/N# TYG500130 (4 needed, comes in 5 packs if ordered online)

4. You should replace the axle hub bolts P/N# (2 total)

6. You might want to replace the rear trailing arm bolts while you are rooting around in there P/N (2 total) RYG501580

7. You will not need to replace the drain and fill plugs (my opinion)

My Kit came with bearings, seals, ring & pinion, although I had ordered the seals previously (now I have a spare set)

The o-ring on the diff cover should be reusable, don't jamb a screwdriver in the cast to split it, and destroy the seal. There are some needle bearings in one side of the casting, they are not replaced.

There are no adjustments, etc. that I can tell otherwise, just clean and assemble properly. Some jigs, pullers and other equipment might be needed, which a diff shop would have, you might not. That being said, guys like that love "basket cases" as you can always charge more to fix it then.

You can find pictures of a disassembled diff in my gallery here... DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - Home > Member Galleries > tlt (http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/index.php?cat=11463)

[Preacher]

Not really interested in doing the job myself, have got stealer doing it - will let you know how it progresses

dj

[Mully]

Hey DJ, just wondering how this worked out for you?

I've been chasing the Castrol SAF Carbon Mod Plus oil for the rear locking diff and cannot get it anywhere 'normal' in Adelaide. Only place I found it after they rang Land Rover themselves, was Solitaire who are the only Land Rover agent now in Adelaide. $88 PER LITRE !!! Holy crapamoly Batman! This stuff is liquid gold but you really need to use the right stuff... and expect extortion to match.

For anyone thinking about changing their own diff fluids... it's a piece of cake.

Hope yours is all sorted now?

Cheers.

[Geedublya]

Found this (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DISCOVERY-3-RANGE-ROVER-SPORT-REAR-DIFF-RECONDITIONED-/200647893072?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2eb78be050) on eBay. May or may not be cheap.

[Mully]

Good to see some options bobbing up.... the inspection required of your original unit would sure slow the whole process down. That'd put me off unfortunately.

Not sure the price of recon parts either but think I've seen kits for around the $600 mark.

Thanks for the share.