Rear Tailgate not opening

[Franz]

I have trolled throyugh older posts but nothing really jumps out as a solution.

When locking the vehicle, the rear door lock occasionally makes a different to normal noise. Result is that I can't open the rear door from the outside.

Fortunately I can get to the inside handle with my storage unit in situ and I can open the door from the inside (phew, thank goodness for that). From then on I can open and close the door from the outside without any problems........until I lock and unlock the vehicle again. Won't open from the outside but will from the inside.

I've removed the rear door skin and had a look - nothing looks untoward.

Anyone had this and know what the fix is?

TIA.

Franz
2004 D2a auto with mods.

[alpick]

Yep buy a new tailgate door lock assembly.

[winaje]

Heya Franz, how's it going?

I found that my door lock was mucking up also. I pulled the mechanism out and gave it a clean, then installed a second tension spring on the inner handle lever. It seems that the weakened spring on the handle was not allowing/forcing the locking mechanism to work properly. I haven't had any problems since.

If the above doesn't make sense, you're welcome to have a look at what I've done.

[Franz]

Heya Franz, how's it going?

I found that my door lock was mucking up also. I pulled the mechanism out and gave it a clean, then installed a second tension spring on the inner handle lever. It seems that the weakened spring on the handle was not allowing/forcing the locking mechanism to work properly. I haven't had any problems since.

If the above doesn't make sense, you're welcome to have a look at what I've done.
Hi Will,

All good mate, hope the same with you.

I'll pull out the mechanism and go with your suggestion - any special tricks to remove or is it a straightforward job? Where did you source the spring from?

Cheers,

Franz
2004 D2a auto with mods

[winaje]

Removal: Small hands help, just take your time. Can be a bit of a wiggle and twist to get the lock out. Pretty sure you'll need a TORX bit, I have some you can borrow if you need them.

Spring, I have no idea, it was laying around in the workshop I had access to at the time. I'd suggest something about 30 or so mm long, I drilled a small hole in the end of the actuating lever and I think hooked the other end over something handy.

Sorry I can't remember more, was a couple of years ago, in the half dark one night.

[Jeff]

My D2 tailgate stuck. I just sprayed heaps of WD40 on it and wiggled the outside handle back and forth to work it in. Six months later it works most times, occasionally it needs a little pushing on the handle or it wont lock in when you close it.

Jeff

:rocket:

[Franz]

My D2 tailgate stuck. I just sprayed heaps of WD40 on it and wiggled the outside handle back and forth to work it in. Six months later it works most times, occasionally it needs a little pushing on the handle or it wont lock in when you close it.

Jeff

:rocket:
Thanks Jeff.

I don't have any problem locking or unlocking it - the mechanism works. When I work the outside handle, nothing - the door won't open. Use the inside latch and it opens - works fine from then on until it's locked and unlocked again. Latch does not stick at all, it just won't release the mechanism (if that makes sense)

[alien]

Hey Franz,
Check the child lock lever is all the way to the end of it's travel.
If it moves it can cause the same symptoms.

There seems to be a "sweet spot" where locking and unlocking can give the outer handle an alignment issue within the lock.
As you found on the searchs a wash(I use CRC) and lube(I use Grahite powder) seems to cure this.

[Franz]

Yep buy a new tailgate door lock assembly.
did you buy new or used one? Cost?

[Franz]

Hey Franz,
Check the child lock lever is all the way to the end of it's travel.
If it moves it can cause the same symptoms.

There seems to be a "sweet spot" where locking and unlocking can give the outer handle an alignment issue within the lock.
As you found on the searchs a wash(I use CRC) and lube(I use Grahite powder) seems to cure this.
Thanks Kyle.

Checked that, made no difference.

So, I pulled the lock assembly. What seems tp be happening is that it will lock but not unlock again. The button stays down and the unlock lever does not move upwards. When I pull the inside handle, this then pops up the button and opens the door. So, I'm thinking something is wrong inside the actuator.

Cheers,

Franz

[winaje]

Franz, I'd lube all the pivot points you can find first, before you buy another assembly. I reckon that my actuator was lazy before I lubed the connections, and it seems a lot better.

If that doesn't work, then http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/D2-Land-Rover-Discovery-tailgate-door-lock-/290567717828?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43a72f83c4

[alpick]

AND the lube to use is called INOX Aussie made non silcon based. will not go sticky, dry up, gum up or wash off with water.

The locksmith who fixed my "sticky wafer" problem gave me a can as part of the deal.

super stuff for providing sliperiness in locks.


Girlfriends Civic had a door lock problem the local mech could not solve, a quick spray with inox and all returned to as new ops.

[alpick]

I had all sorts of intermittent probs with my tailgate latch both lock/unlock and opening.

pulled it all apart / cleaned lubed etc and back in, worked ok for a while then went screwy again.

after lotsa research just bought a new one $110 i think and all is sweet.

i lube it now with inox every 6 months or so ( and all other locks).

cheers

Alpick

[feraldisco]

Did anyone else find it impossible to remove the 3 torx head bolts that hold the rear door lock mech? I've tried an impact driver and all that did was shear my torx bit! Don't know why some of these things are done up so tight or why they don't use allen key bolt heads...

[Franz]

Did anyone else find it impossible to remove the 3 torx head bolts that hold the rear door lock mech? I've tried an impact driver and all that did was shear my torx bit! Don't know why some of these things are done up so tight or why they don't use allen key bolt heads...
Had no problems getting mine out with a 1/4" ratchet and torx bit socket.

[feraldisco]

Had no problems getting mine out with a 1/4" ratchet and torx bit socket.

hmm...can't budge mine with a 1/2" ratchet, with the first thing to give way being the torx bit!

[Pierre]

We've had trouble along these lines. Worn latches cock over just a little bit and jam, especially if there's dust about/in the latch itself, and the covering on the rotating element has worn out.

Replacing the whole latch is the permanent solution, and grief ceases!

Pete