Spot welds and fuel tank mounting

[Bundy]

Hi all

I have finally made a start on my 1955 series 1 86". The chassis has been done and now it's time to put the puzzle back together.

What do people do with broken spot welds in aluminium, for example, the seat locker lid strengthening pieces are broken away at the ends on mine and there are other parts throughout the vehicle with similar problems?

I can get access to a tig and a spot welder but have never used either.

The other question I have is the fuel tank bolted directly to the chassis outriggers or are there rubber pieces?

I never took the tank out and even though I have the parts book 4107 pages 163, 164, 165, 166 are badly damaged and I can't use any of it.
If anybody has an electronic copy of those pages I would sure appreciate it.

Regards Paul

[wrinklearthur]

Hi Paul

I have the pages you need copies of, need taking gently through the process of scaning and sending though.

PM me if you want me to do this for you.

No rubber in the joint by the way.

Cheers Arthur

[series1buff]

Paul

The broken spot welds . If the particular area is flat , then you can use a industrial adhesive to glue the parts together . They have been doing this in the aircraft industry for many years. Loctite make good adhesives....324 is one.

If you have stress cracks in the panels, then that's different . You can oxy weld the panels together, but you need the correct flux.. its tricky , but it can be done. TIG is OK but you need to use the correct filler rod .. there are various types depending on the content of magnesium or silicon in the base metal.

Mike

[101RRS]

You can use pop rivets that are a V shape and when popped up are flush with the surface - when painted over look like the original spot weld.

Garry

[series1buff]

You can use pop rivets that are a V shape and when popped up are flush with the surface - when painted over look like the original spot weld.

Garry

that's interesting .... never seen those

Using ordinary solid rivets does work too . You have to find small countersunk head rivets . Again, the aircraft industry uses them. If you carefully drill and countersink the hole, the end result appears to be just like a spot weld. Takes some practice to make it neat though , you peen over the inside and flatten it down .
I was thinking of making a portable hydralic press thing up to squash the rivets down, rather than hitting them .

MIKE

[101RRS]

that's interesting .... never seen those

Using ordinary solid rivets does work too . You have to find small countersunk head rivets . Again, the aircraft industry uses them. If you carefully drill and countersink the hole, the end result appears to be just like a spot weld. Takes some practice to make it neat though , you peen over the inside and flatten it down .
I was thinking of making a portable hydralic press thing up to squash the rivets down, rather than hitting them .

MIKE

I think we are actually talking about the same thing except the ones I have used are a pop rivet - instead of a flat underside and a domed top the bottom is a v shape to fit into a countersunk hole - there is a small hole in the middle (sometimes) like a pop rivet but this can easily be filled.

I used steel ones to repair a heater housing on my jag and then soldered over the top so it was not obvious there was a rivet in there.

Bunnings used to sell them but certainly any speciality fastener shop has them.

Garry

Garry

[digger]

photos?

[gromit]

Digger,

Have a look here :- http://www.aviaquip.com.au/allfast/af9.pdf


Colin

[digger]

Digger,

Have a look here :- http://www.aviaquip.com.au/allfast/af9.pdf


Colin

Thanks I was trying to see a photo of how they look after fitting...couldn't find one..

[series1buff]

I bought the C/SUNK head solid aluminium rivets from AVIAQUIP..

be warned ..you have to say you are in the aircraft business ..otherwise they wont sell to you ...

I printed up a fake business letterhead and mailed off the order. It worked ..But if you ring tem, they are very defensive about selling stuff to hobby people

MIKE

[101RRS]

Bunnings did sell them and I got mine from the local nut and bolt shop.

[cjc_td5]

Hi all

I have finally made a start on my 1955 series 1 86". The chassis has been done and now it's time to put the puzzle back together.

What do people do with broken spot welds in aluminium, for example, the seat locker lid strengthening pieces are broken away at the ends on mine and there are other parts throughout the vehicle with similar problems?

I can get access to a tig and a spot welder but have never used either.

The other question I have is the fuel tank bolted directly to the chassis outriggers or are there rubber pieces?

I never took the tank out and even though I have the parts book 4107 pages 163, 164, 165, 166 are badly damaged and I can't use any of it.
If anybody has an electronic copy of those pages I would sure appreciate it.

Regards Paul

Hi there Paul,
If you need some seat box lids or any other 86" panels, give "master chief" on here a PM. He lives near Bathurst and has heaps of second hand panels that you could choose from. Is heaps easier than repairing them.

Re repairing panels where required, I glued mine using strengthening gussets in descrete locations. Attached is how I strengthened the radiator support panel. It may not be how the purest would do it, but it worked for me to repair a few small cracks and strengthen it to avoid future cracking. I have also repaired a few small tears in the seat box this way.

Cheers,
Chris

[digger]

Hi there Paul,
If you need some seat box lids or any other 86" panels, give "master chief" on here a PM. He lives near Bathurst and has heaps of second hand panels that you could choose from. Is heaps easier than repairing them.

Re repairing panels where required, I glued mine using strengthening gussets in descrete locations. Attached is how I strengthened the radiator support panel. It may not be how the purest would do it, but it worked for me to repair a few small cracks and strengthen it to avoid future cracking. I have also repaired a few small tears in the seat box this way.

Cheers,
Chris

Chris,
do you know if M/C has an 80" stuff?

[Bundy]

Hi
Thanks for so many interesting replies to this. If the LRover was not in such a tight spot in my garage I would post some pics. I will clear some mess soon and get on with it.
Regards
Paul