View Full Version : Standing on Spare Wheel and Bike Rack
JimR
23rd June 2011, 11:41 AM
Hi,
I drive a Defender 90 and I'm wondering if anyone has heard about any issues around standing on the spare wheel. I seem to do this quite a bit when I climb the ladder to access the roof rack its easy to step onto the spare wheel and do stuff. Last time I went off-roading I noticed a bit of sqeak coming from the back that I suspected was the door.
Also I have the dilemma of carting bicycles around and buying a Kuat NV racks. Attached below are the dimensions and to my eye it will be touch and go whether the rear door clears an unlanden horizontal position rack. The other thing I'm worried is that the bike may foul on the spare wheel. Sorry I'm no good at maths and won't know if it works until I physically fit it. I already have the quick release style bolt downs on the roof and they are a pain to get the bike on and off.
Cheers Jim
http://www.discountramps.com/cargoImages/kuat-nv-dimensions.gif
Phoenix12
23rd June 2011, 12:10 PM
After a while you might find that the door hinges wear a bit prematurely, (I am ssuming that the wheel is still attached to your door and not on a carrier), which will mean that the rear door will not stay open when you want it to. This happens on all of them at some stage, and is the main reason why Daniel (from MULGO) has made up his gas strut conversion.....so it stays open no matter what.....and so the weight of the wheel has no effect on its operation.
Also just had a look at the rack online and I reckon it would be touch and go....................I am the same as you, I need the object for trial and error. Luckily I have the 110 and my mountain bikes just go straight in with the rear seat folded forward............... I do like the look of those racks though !!
Cheers
KarlB
23rd June 2011, 12:15 PM
Can't comment on the bike rack issue but I regularly stand on the spare wheel of my D90, for exactly the same reason you do Jim. I would imagine that the load applied to the door doing this is probably insignificant compared to the dynamic load applied to the door when you are hitting bumps and the spare is 'forced' to accelerate upwards and downwards repeatedly over very short time spans.
Cheers
KarlB
:)
Loubrey
23rd June 2011, 01:44 PM
Standing on the wheel works a treat when packing and unpacking (don't let Health and Safety see you though...:D). I have however always had a spare wheel carrier fitted. At 95kg I personally don't think it a wise idea to stand on the wheel without a carrier, hence I've had to budget the carrier with the roofrack on my current 90. The frame holding the spare mount has been known to tear through the door skin with the combination of shaking, vibrating, corrosion and added weight...
That's a very nice bike rack, but my bike rack is just a simple Z arrangement that slides into the towbar receiver and carries 3 bikes ($65.00 from the local cycle shop). I actually bungie the bikes to the spare to prevent unnecessary bounce. Obviously the door can't open with this setup in place.
Cheers
Trout
23rd June 2011, 07:20 PM
Suggest you consider doing as I did. Get a wheel carrier and adapt a standard tow ball bike carrier to bolt onto spare wheel. That way you can stand on the wheel without concern and also have the bikes swing out of the way when you open the door. Mine went right around Aust with bikes on the back without a problem. :cool:
rijidij
23rd June 2011, 08:55 PM
If the rack is like this one, I think you would have problems with the bikes not clearing the spare wheel.
Cheers, Murray
YouTube - ‪Kuat NV Hitch Mount Bike Rack Demonstrated by Rack Outfitters‬‏
n plus one
26th June 2011, 06:29 PM
Can't comment on the bike rack issue but I regularly stand on the spare wheel of my D90, for exactly the same reason you do Jim. I would imagine that the load applied to the door doing this is probably insignificant compared to the dynamic load applied to the door when you are hitting bumps and the spare is 'forced' to accelerate upwards and downwards repeatedly over very short time spans.
Cheers
KarlB
:)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
What he said.
PS get yourself the best 4X4 bike rack on the market:
iSi Advanced 4x4 Bicycle Carrier and Bike Rack Systems (http://www.isi-carriers.com/)
Happy to carry $20,000 worth of bikes offroad on one, barely affects departure angle and the rear door clears it easily.
rijidij
26th June 2011, 08:29 PM
That iSi carrier looks the goods..........................
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/06/160.jpg
I can't see the weight of a couple of bicycles being an issue hanging out the back, although I wouldn't be hanging them on the door itself.
This is a hitch receiver type carrier I made when I had a 'bike' and it worked quite well, on or off road. Some of the weight was shared through the straps to the roofrack.............
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/08/945.jpg
n plus one
27th June 2011, 06:50 PM
That iSi carrier looks the goods..........................
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/06/160.jpg
I can't see the weight of a couple of bicycles being an issue hanging out the back, although I wouldn't be hanging them on the door itself.
This is a hitch receiver type carrier I made when I had a 'bike' and it worked quite well, on or off road. Some of the weight was shared through the straps to the roofrack.............
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/08/945.jpg
The isi rack IS the goods :twisted:
I also carry on moto (KTM 530) on the back of the Deefer (it's important to have hobbies) - the rear crossmember is still attached, so bikes will be nothing by comparison.
JimR
28th June 2011, 11:05 AM
Standing on the wheel works a treat when packing and unpacking (don't let Health and Safety see you though...:D).
Cheers
Yeah, I've been working as a safety officer for the last 15 years so quite versed in the prevention of falls standards.
Anyway, thanks for the replies and I believe I have the solution to the potential dimensional fouling issues. A number of different hitch mount adapters that replace the towball are available which will extend the rack, lowering the position which will allow access to the rear via back door with loaded rack. The main reason this is important to let my pet monkeys in and out of the back rather than climbing through the cabin which I'm sure they wouldn't mind. I'll post some picks when its all hooked up as a reference for anyone looking into it in future, cheers.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
n plus one
29th June 2011, 07:43 PM
Yeah, I've been working as a safety officer for the last 15 years so quite versed in the prevention of falls standards.
Anyway, thanks for the replies and I believe I have the solution to the potential dimensional fouling issues. A number of different hitch mount adapters that replace the towball are available which will extend the rack, lowering the position which will allow access to the rear via back door with loaded rack. The main reason this is important to let my pet monkeys in and out of the back rather than climbing through the cabin which I'm sure they wouldn't mind. I'll post some picks when its all hooked up as a reference for anyone looking into it in future, cheers.
http://sprockt.com.au/images/thumbnails/0/350/350/Yakima_Hitch_Adapter_small.jpg
Hey mate, have you actually already bought this other style of rack?
If not, I strongly suggest you look at the ISI rack - it definitely clears the rear wheel AND lays flat to allow you to open the rear door (with your bikes still on it.
As someone who probably has more $$$ invested in pushies than I do in my Landy, you can trust me when I say, the ISI rack is the bomb.
JimR
9th July 2011, 07:31 PM
Hey the maths and advice was right in relation to the spare wheel but its an easy fix. The good news is unloaded and in the horizontal position the rear door is not fouled and it will open fully. I will still go for the hitch adapter just to lower it and give enough clearance to use the built in work stand. The other issue in relation to the spare is the pedal on bike 1 fouls, you can either remove the pedal or take off the wheel cover and position the pedal in the wheel arch.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/07/1130.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/07/1131.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/07/1132.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/07/1133.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/07/1134.jpg
I will vouch for the Kuat NV Rack, its excellent quality and functional engineering and durable with a nice anodized finish which will hopefully last for years. You can get an add-on that will make it hold 4 bikes. From a safety perspective I never liked lifting the bike onto the roof rack and think this is a better option.
I will post again when I've solved the spare wheel clearance issues. Cheers Jim
portafilter
9th July 2011, 08:00 PM
Nice truck Jim (and nice ellsworth). what are the tyres you are running on the defer? and how do they perform?
also is that the LR expedition roof rack, im looking at upgrading to one, i just havent seen it in the flesh yet!
Justin
JimR
10th July 2011, 04:35 PM
Nice truck Jim (and nice ellsworth). what are the tyres you are running on the defer? and how do they perform?
also is that the LR expedition roof rack, im looking at upgrading to one, i just havent seen it in the flesh yet!
Justin
Yeah I'm running Continental Cross Contact AT's I think its the stock tyre they come with from Land Rover. I would say they perform well, I only had to lower the pressure once when I got into a bit of a tight spot.
I didn't bother lowering them for the beach as it was mainly coast if doing more inland sand tracks I would have let them down to improve performance. They have been good on various terrians including loose steep rocky stuff and block soil including bog holes and have gone few places you wouldn't attempt in say a Prado.
Yes this rack is the genuine Land Rover Expedition rack and I really think it is excellent and proven to be very versatile. I used some stainless Ubolts to secure hard ply for loading but left the front open as I have a sun hatch which opens perfectly into the gap. On the front it has 4 light mounts and a worklight mount at the back. That is my next job to install those spotlights and I want to go with the LEDs which cost a bit more but I think will be worth it in the long run. The only real downside is the clearance issues, I tried to remove parts of my garage to squeeze it in but it was no good so I'm stuck with going for the Land Rover weathered look as I'd rather leave it on as I use it alot.
JimR
29th December 2011, 10:36 AM
Took me awhile to get this sorted out but basically a hitch extender fixed the fowling issue and allows easy access to the rear of the truck whilst rack is on. Unloaded the door will fully open, with two bikes it opens about half way which allows access for most things less than about 70 cm wide.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/110.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/111.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/112.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/113.jpg
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.4 Copyright © 2025 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved.