View Full Version : Defender CVs and Front Axles
djam1
23rd June 2011, 06:53 PM
How many people are breaking Defender front axles and CVs
I have a 2002 Xtreme and figure I should upgrade them it seems with the TC and ABS that Ashcrofts are the best.
Barry can sell me 24/32 Hituff axles not convinced this is the way to go though.
Anyone have any advice.
Vehicle is only a tourer but sometimes things get rough
TIA
Drover
23rd June 2011, 07:50 PM
djam1'
I am on the same page as you, I only use mine a general 4x4, mainly touring but I want it to be "Set & Forget". For this reason I have decieded that Ashcroft parts are the way to go.
But here in Aus the prices are over the top !
So I have been in touch with Ascroft Tranmissions in the UK, direct.
CV joints £425 per pair (if ABS add £30)
Front shafts £245 per pair
Rear shafts £260 per pair
Flanges £90 per pair
Freight for all the parts price would be around £160.
These prices are direct fromn the email recieved 1 June '11. The prices are far better than anything you will get in Aus by heaps.
now it is just a matter of saving the "hard earnt" and then away I go.................:D
djam1
23rd June 2011, 08:18 PM
To be honest I am not sure what to do I speak to my regular part suppliers and do numerous Google Searches and not many people seem to be breaking things.
I know the Gen Y people will be along shortly to tell us that its all crap but the bulk of the sensible Land Rover population don't seem to be breaking things in normal use.
Maybe I am wrong just feeling the water
Jock The Rock
23rd June 2011, 08:51 PM
Why not wait til it breaks?
I have Rovertracks in mine
Untitled Document (http://www.rovertracks.com)
Keith is a top bloke to deal with
pannawonica
23rd June 2011, 09:27 PM
The next weakest link from the cv,s and axles is the 2 pin diff.
I don,t really know when upgraded the C/P will last when locked.
Front sals would be good if available.
Could solid axle adapt a D60 they do stuff for J**ps.
stig0000
23rd June 2011, 09:47 PM
i had a front diff brake and im convinced it was TC that did it,, the on and off judder forces has to take its toll,,, now i have a rear locker and never had a problem ever again at either end, iv never blown a cv or axle,,, i do try to look after the Cvs tho buy only giving it some when wheels are straight,, but with the locker theres not much need for a good left foot enyway,,
alexturner
23rd June 2011, 11:06 PM
djam1'
I am on the same page as you, I only use mine a general 4x4, mainly touring but I want it to be "Set & Forget". For this reason I have decieded that Ashcroft parts are the way to go.
But here in Aus the prices are over the top !
So I have been in touch with Ascroft Tranmissions in the UK, direct.
CV joints £425 per pair (if ABS add £30)
Front shafts £245 per pair
Rear shafts £260 per pair
Flanges £90 per pair
Freight for all the parts price would be around £160.
These prices are direct fromn the email recieved 1 June '11. The prices are far better than anything you will get in Aus by heaps.
now it is just a matter of saving the "hard earnt" and then away I go.................:D
Hey Drover,
Man- can you send me the details of who to email because that's a steal.
Alex
frantic
24th June 2011, 01:00 PM
Go to the ashcroft web site Ashcroft Transmissions (http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/)
I have been looking /saving to get the front set up for my 02 defender 110 with the ABS option as ashcroft are the only ones who do it. Rovertracks and hy-tuff only seem to do straight cv's for Non ABS landies,
:eek:but 1 tip for both of you, Break up the order as 790 pounds for the front alone is over $1k aus and you will get hit by the import/gst taxes ,keep each parcel under $1000 aussie value, some recomend getting them sent a week or so apart.
cewilson
24th June 2011, 01:40 PM
My front diff went, replaced it with an ARB locked centre = never had any issues with the axles or CV's yet = and I do use it off-road a lot.
Axles and CV's in these tend to break when a wheel is in the air and then it comes down, gets traction and snaps as a result of the force
or
Spline wears out - but that takes time and also happens inside of the drive flange itself.
Personally - wait until/if you break it then change it out.
Cheers
Chris
Jock The Rock
29th June 2011, 08:58 PM
And when it breaks make sure you dissassemble the swivel housing and clean out all the little bits of broken CV.
Otherwise they will end up scoring your swivel ball and chopping out the seal
LowRanger
1st July 2011, 05:48 PM
If you can afford it,upgrade it.The last thing you want is for something to break at the most inopportune time,when you are up to your armpits in mud,or halfway up a steep rocky/rutted hill.And if you don't upgrade it,you will think back and curse that you decided to wait till something broke,even though someone advised otherwise:eek:
Wayne
1103.9TDI
3rd July 2011, 03:42 PM
Yeah, I agree with the above post, you'll kick yourself if you need to pay upwards $3k for an isolated rescue, or come back after having to leave the vehicle and find $3k's worth of kit gone. The $3k could have been put towards making the Landie close to bulletproof.....mind you, if it's only used on the odd weekend and never on your own, or to pick the kids up, why bother?
justinc
3rd July 2011, 06:00 PM
I'll add my 2.5c,
I have yet to break any drivetrain component on my Rangie (originally 4.6 auto 12.50 x 33's and 10 spline stock running gear, 275K old!:o) or when it became a Isuzu Manual (4bd1T 4spd upgraded at that point to Defender front and rear diffs with Maxidrive rear axles and detroit locker, standard Def front ) and I used it in rough trips and lots of touring/ towing.
Now the running gear is in a 110, I am fitting a trutrac to the front and upgrading the axle housing but leaving the CV's and inner axles standard Defender 24spline. I have seen a few fail due to abuse and lack of lubrication (Water and mud is NOT a lubricant!) but really driving in a reasonable manner and looking after your gear I am not convinced a huge upgrade is worthwhile, at least if you are intending to only use it for average offroading and aren't running 35" Simex on rocks with 400HP...:twisted:
Slow and steady is a good rule especially when miles from home and as Gerry said above a remote area recovery is VERY expensive.
JC
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