Removing LWB Tub off Molly

[Grizzly_Adams]

Hi all,

Today was such a lovely day I thought I'd take the journey to Mum's place and do some work on Molly (1959 LWB Series II).

It's so disheartening looking at all the wires in the engine bay that I decided not to continue trying to remove the bulkhead today, but instead thought I'd remove the tub so I could try and A) remove the extraneous wiring B) see just how bad the chassis is C) decide what to make her into.

I wasn't very successful.

I now have a passenger sill held on by 1 bolt at the front, I couldn't get it off. The nut has half fallen apart so there's nowhere to get a decent grip on it. On top of that the tub is still very much on. The rear is loose but the front is not.

I've been trying to follow the Hayne's workshop manual but wasn't very successful. I've undone every nut and bolt that I can find that the Hayne's manual mentions but still no movement near the front of the tub. The workshop manual says to "undo the bolts connecting the tub to the seating area" but doesn't show a graphic of which ones.

Can anyone shed any light on which extra bolts may be required to be undone? It's really a little frustrating. Does anyone have another type of manual with better instructions on how to remove a tub? I've already removed the hardtop.

[Dinty]

G'day All,
There are 10 x 5/16" UNF bolts across the back of the rear x member, then you have to remove all the floor screws and remove the floor sections x 3, then at the rear of the seat box (behind seats) there are 9 (I think) 1/4"UNF bolts, all have to come out, then down the sides of the seat box there are another 4 x 1/4"UNF these hold the edge of the seatbox to the rear tub, there are also 2 x 5/16" bolts that hold the seatbox to the chassis rails either side of the transmission tunnel, once all of these have been removed you can take out the seatbox, you might also want to remove the panel and 6 screws around the handbrake as well.
If it's a ex military, undo the fuel tap from the seatbox.
With the seatbox out of the way, you should be able to see the 4 (or more) x 5/16"UNF bolts that hold the rear tub to the chassis at the front of the tub, with these removed and all wires disconnected ++ don't forget the stiffening bars that stop the rear edge of the tub sides flapping, they fit under the side of the tub and connect to the rear spring hanger outrigger, all off tub off:angel: cheers Dennis:angel:
ps dont waste time undoing nuts n botls that are stubborn, drill them down with a 3mm drill bit (in the center of the head) then down with a 8mm or 5/16" and the heads will fly off, usually those bolts aren't worth saving full stop,,.

[The ho har's]

^^What he said^^^:D

Hope you have better luck next time your Molly needs attention:)

Oh congratulations on wining a prize at the Jamboree:D

Mrs hh:angel:

[Grizzly_Adams]

G'day All,
There are 10 x 5/16" UNF bolts across the back of the rear x member

Tick


, then you have to remove all the floor screws and remove the floor sections x 3
hmmm... didn't remove the floor sections, was working around them. Ok, will revisit that.


, then at the rear of the seat box (behind seats) there are 9 (I think) 1/4"UNF bolts, all have to come out,
Tick


then down the sides of the seat box there are another 4 x 1/4"UNF these hold the edge of the seatbox to the rear tub,
Tick


there are also 2 x 5/16" bolts that hold the seatbox to the chassis rails either side of the transmission tunnel,
Didn't look at this as I wasn't looking at removing the seatbox (seats are already out). Will revisit next chance I get to visit Molly.


once all of these have been removed you can take out the seatbox, you might also want to remove the panel and 6 screws around the handbrake as well.
Will do


If it's a ex military, undo the fuel tap from the seatbox.
Nope, full civvy.


With the seatbox out of the way, you should be able to see the 4 (or more) x 5/16"UNF bolts that hold the rear tub to the chassis at the front of the tub
hmmm I have the feeling this may be what I've missed as I don't remember these bolts.


, with these removed and all wires disconnected ++ don't forget the stiffening bars that stop the rear edge of the tub sides flapping, they fit under the side of the tub and connect to the rear spring hanger outrigger, all off tub off:angel: cheers Dennis:angel:
Thanks Dennis, much appreciated!


ps dont waste time undoing nuts n botls that are stubborn, drill them down with a 3mm drill bit (in the center of the head) then down with a 8mm or 5/16" and the heads will fly off, usually those bolts aren't worth saving full stop,,.
Hokie dokey.... thanks again :BigThumb: