HID & the L322

[harlie]

Hi All
I’m now on a quest to improve the pathetic high beam lights on the L322 (2004). This would be easy if one could purchase a decent front bar to hang a couple of lights off – I would even have a soft factory ABar but the only thing I can find is one of those ugly wrap around things – (can’t do it)…

So, options I’m looking at.
1. Fit a good bulbar with lights and UHF aerial, haha
2. Hella have a new product that should fit in as a replacement for the fogs in the bumper, it is a high beam light that would be connected as per driving lights, fit a resistor in the empty fog light harness to stop the dash messages.
3. Change the Highbeam fillers (2nd set of light that come on for high) with HID.

Actually I’d like to do all 3… So I’ve started at #3 mainly after reading http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/130625-driving-lights-d3-rrs.html (http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/130625-driving-lights-d3-rrs.html) and the d4 owners reportings that it is simple.

Has anyone played with HID kits for the Fillers? I have a 55w H7 Slimline kit, I know the kit is good. When connected I get the “Check Main Beam” message on the dash, and when turned on it flashes. At this stage I assume that a bypass & shunt circuit is needed similar to the LED trailer light solution, or am I missing something?
Thanks

[Graeme]

Do the lights continue to flicker after several seconds, ie once the globes have warmed-up?

I've just bought a kit to refit my driving lights that has ballasts which draw a maximum of 6A. As these ballasts will be for the HID halogen replacement lights, I bought this slightly more expensive kit because the cheapest kit's ballasts were stated to have a somewhat higher initial current draw and these ballasts are supposed to be suitable for use with ecu-controlled switching. The ballasts currently in use for the HID halogen replacements are connected to a relay powered from the halogen high beam supply but I'm hoping to run the new ballasts directly from the halogen high beam. IIRC I've tested them directly and don't flicker anyway. If they flicker then I'll just fit a 2nd relay, as the existing one is wired to my driving light switch. I expect to fit them tomorrow. However the D4 doesn't monitor the halogen high beams for blown globes so obviously different to the L322.

[harlie]

Do the lights continue to flicker after several seconds, ie once the globes have warmed-up?

.

Yes it continues to flicker.
So it needs to use no more than 6amp on start up?
its not a cheap kit...

[RR46]

Is this the sort of front bar you might be looking for to hang your driving lights off etc etc off?????

[harlie]

Is this the sort of front bar you might be looking for to hang your driving lights off etc etc off?????
yeah, I think there is a few of us who have been teased by these pics. Is it SRS certified?

[RR46]

yeah, I think there is a few of us who have been teased by these pics. Is it SRS certified?

Must say it dose look good.

I have only seen the pics on the net so I wouldn't know. As far as getting it to be SRS comp if you throw enough cash at something anything is possible.

If it I was going to fit a bar to my 06 S/C RR this is the only way I would do it. I have an ARB winch bar fitted to my soft dash RR classic with SRS:D

Cheers

[Graeme]

Yes it continues to flicker.
So it needs to use no more than 6amp on start up?
its not a cheap kit...
I suspect the opposite - the ballasts are drawing more current when starting the globes than a halogen globe would be expected to draw. I can't see the cheaper kit that I ignored but IIRC it was 8.5A. Alternatively you might need to use a 35W kit but that might be seen as a blown globe once started.

[PAT303]

Harlie when you get it sorted make it a sticky will you,I want to do the same thing. Pat

[Camo]

Harlie when you get it sorted make it a sticky will you,I want to do the same thing. Pat

x2

I really hate the plastic bar and spotties on a small bar looks gay

List of things I wanna sort for my rangie are

1. Decent stereo with GPS and a small sub in the back.
2. Light Upgrade
3. Dual battery system.. Only for a fridge so a removable battery box will do. If only there was room for a proper battery!
4. To find a proper jack (the factory one broke on me! lucky I had a second jack under the car)

Camo

[PAT303]

Jack,yep there's a good upgrade.I'd like to find the dickhead that designed the original and shove my original up his ass. Pat

[Laurie]

Harlie
I was trying to sort out lights for my upcoming car and found these threads that cover headlights,fog lights and LED bulb replacements. Well worth a read.

fullfatrr.com - View topic - xenon 6000k (http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic4882.html?highlight=hid)

fullfatrr.com - View topic - Fog Light HID Upgrade (http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic4600.html?highlight=hid)

fullfatrr.com - View topic - LED Bulbs (http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic1094.html?highlight=hid)




Then these are about general LED conversions..


fullfatrr.com - View topic - led upgrade (http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic2355.html?highlight=led)

fullfatrr.com - View topic - LED Hi-Beams - With Pics (http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic5318.html?highlight=led)

fullfatrr.com - View topic - Cluster Pixel Repair and White LED Upgrade with pics (http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic5922.html?highlight=led)

fullfatrr.com - View topic - Wing mirror bulbs/LEDs (http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic5567.html?highlight=led)

fullfatrr.com - View topic - LED Upgrades (http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic4899.html?highlight=led)


I wish ARB would do a D3 modified bar for the L322 ,the SRS activation can't be that dis-similar :mellow: that it would require starting from scratch with all those involved costs.


Laurie

[harlie]

Jack,yep there's a good upgrade.I'd like to find the dickhead that designed the original and shove my original up his ass. Pat:Rolling: gold!

[harlie]

mmm - reading lots of talk about being able to "program the LCM". So the Light Check Module can be programmed to stop testing certain lights - that would solve a lot, then just need to confirm Graeme's idea of too much draw.

Who's got a Fault Mate? I'll buy one if someone can confirm it will do it - I need to get a service reader anyway.

[Graeme]

then just need to confirm Graeme's idea of too much draw.
Yes, its only a conclusion drawn from what happens with bi-xenon fitment to D3s & D4s originally fitted with all halogens.

[harlie]

Ok I’ll answer my own because someone else asked too, more testing results from tonight.

Graeme is on the money – there is too mush draw for the LCM. The voltage at the ballast drops to 11.4 when it is trying to start, and that is with the engine running, I thought that it was tripping the thermo breaker (built in to the LCM) but it’s not, it’s the ballast resetting that causes the flashing. I did provide it with another + feed (wire from the jump stud) while it was trying to start and it started and continued to run once the 2nd feed had been removed…. So the LCM and factory harness can’t supply enough current to start it.

This may be fixed by a different 35w kit but I’m not going to spend any more $ on HID kits hoping they might work, some obviously do, but which, I don’t know. Besides the point of this is for more light, so I want 55s (the one fitted is absurdly brighter than the halogen in the other side). For the record, this 55w kit I have draws 11.2amp at start up for one globe :eek: - that is running it off the camper Andersen plug so it would be less with the engine running and 14v in the system instead of 12.5ish but it is still high. Once warm (less than 3 sec) it draws 4.6 at 12.5v. So they will work off a relay, and I bet the warm up time will be significantly shorter than a kit working through the harness.

Error message (Check Main Beam). This is indeed a configurable setting. The actual name of the setting that needs to be changed is; Main Beam Failure: This denotes if a failure of the main beam lights will be notified or not. There is also Main Beam Lights Monitor which is whether the lights are monitored when turned off, So I assume that theoretically it is possible to monitor the light only when turned on and if you have a kit that will run through the harness that could be handy, because once the HID started the Error message cleared itself, so if the first setting was left as true and the second set to 0 you should not see error when turned off and should test Ok when on. The only tools I’ve been able to find that can change these settings is BBS MSV-2 and a little app called NavCoder which only reads and writes modules on the iBus (no Diagnostic capabilities). Not sure if the dealer would do it for me or whether it is worth the $ for testing… I also confirmed that a resistor will stop the Error message.

I’m going to do some more research on a diognostic kit to buy.

So. I will run these HIDs with a relay and it’s not much extra to solve the error with a resistor for the time being (a relay with the resistor built in like narva 68028 might have issues with heat). I have decided to make another box – it’s nearly the same schematic as the one I made for the LED trailer lights, wiring will be much heavier and use 40amp relays. Since I’m doing it I will make it with circuits & outputs for the extra 2 sets of lights I plan to install (replace fogs and on a bar – if I can get one) so install of those is just plug in. This will take me a couple of weeks by the time the bits arrive and I get to it, not sure if anyone is interested in the finished, if not I’ll leave this here…

Also what was interesting is that in V12 and later of the LCM there is a setting that will enable the front fogs to behave like driving light - only on with main beam (how the doco reads), if that’s accurate then a replacement of the fogs would just require the setting changed. I think mine is V11.

[harlie]

Yes, its only a conclusion drawn from what happens with bi-xenon fitment to D3s & D4s originally fitted with all halogens.

For retro fitting factory bi-xenon to a car with halogens, it requires a LCM setting change. Setting name; Bi-Xenon Lights: This denotes if Xenon lights are fitted or not. The bi-xenon lights require power on pins in the plug that the halogens don't, and from what we've seen and read, if you try and run larger globes/ballast than standard it won't work. (This is from what I've read today, I have not tested it.)

[Graeme]

THe D3/4 bi-xenon conversion works without any wiring changes but with flickering only on warm-up unless the setting is changed. The "power on pins" clause may be referring the extra power being drawn (probably detected by the voltage lowering below what halogens would cause) which is not a fault condition if bi-xenons are fitted. Your voltage dropping to 11.4 is more than sufficient to start the ballast/globe but most likely thought by the LCM to be excessively low for the halogen that's supposed to be connected, so turns power off momentarily to protect the wiring against a possible short circuit.

[harlie]

THe D3/4 bi-xenon conversion works without any wiring changes but with flickering only on warm-up unless the setting is changed. The "power on pins" clause may be referring the extra power being drawn (probably detected by the voltage lowering below what halogens would cause) which is not a fault condition if bi-xenons are fitted. Your voltage dropping to 11.4 is more than sufficient to start the ballast/globe but most likely thought by the LCM to be excessively low for the halogen that's supposed to be connected, so turns power off momentarily to protect the wiring against a possible short circuit.
I must add my research is what is happening for the L322.

The LCM didn't cut power - that’s what I originally thought was going on but its not. The voltage fluctuates as the ballast tries to start it, only producing a flash about every 1.5-2 sec and the ballast gives up once it drops below 11.4, but the power is still on the line and it’s far from started.
11.4 is what I'm measuring with my reasonable quality home handyman multi meter – what’s it really going to, the refresh rate of my unit isn’t super fast like the pro models. Acording to RAVE the LCM cuts power for what it thinks is a short based on a thermo sensor for each line - but thats not happening.

From what I read even though virtually the same in function the LCM in the D3/4 is completely different, and later L322s are different to the early iBus LCMs (which there are 4 models), need to visually look at the v1x number on the top of it. Once the L322 got a CanBus LCM they are the same, but it was one of the last iBus components changed. So ignor my comments re Bi-xenon, its for the (early) L322 - and changing the setting will provide power on the extra pins (so I'm told).

There are so many settings in there one could have fun for hours...

[andrew e]

I have a little to add here.

I fitted factory (ex vouge) bi-xenons to my 04 td6 hse. They were a straight fit, even though they have exra pins on the lights, they still work fine so far(it makes sense that they are for extra power draw on startup). I have the globe warning error still, as i havent got around to changing the lcm settings.

Bullbar. I am waiting to take delivery of the one that was recently on ebay. I will likely start another thread on this to show everyone what is involved in adapting to the 322.

ARB and Opposite lock D3 winchbars are the same, apart from the OL one being $250 -300 cheaper. If you ask nicely, you can get one at trade price for as little as $1200.

They are ADR compliant, as there is no frontal difference to the D3. To have them srs certified, you need to submit one to crash testing with a fee of $2k. I will be doing the writeup with the hope that one of the above companys come to the party and slightly modify their existing bar, and sell them as an off the shelf winch bar to suit the 322.

[Graeme]

and the ballast gives up once it drops below 11.4
The specs on my latest ballasts say 9-15V, but whether they actually start at anything like 9V might be another matter.

[33chinacars]

Having just pick up my TD6 yesterday I too am disapointed with standard headlights. Not as good as my P38. Was thinking of just fitting some HID driving lights . Any known problems with that

Gary

[harlie]

Having just pick up my TD6 yesterday I too am disapointed with standard headlights. Not as good as my P38. Was thinking of just fitting some HID driving lights . Any known problems with that

Gary
As long as you have somewhere to mount said, just pick up the high beam signal for the relay from behind the lights - assuming you have a 02-05 you are looking for:
Left head light - Yellow & Green or
Right head light - White & Blue both are into pin #6

[33chinacars]

Thanks Harlie

Have a factory wraparound nudge bar to fit & to fit lights to. Yes MY05 TD6.

I also like the look of the D3 bull bar but not if its not air bag complient

Gary

[andrew e]

My factory vouge xenons are plugged in where the standard HSE halogens were.
On low beam the larger light is on by itself, and on high beam the large and smaller lights are on. Is this what it is meant to do, or should the larger xenon have a shutter for flicking between high and low beam aswell?

Andy

ps IMHO standard 322 lights are far better than p38s.

[harlie]

My factory vouge xenons are plugged in where the standard HSE halogens were.
On low beam the larger light is on by itself, and on high beam the large and smaller lights are on. Is this what it is meant to do, or should the larger xenon have a shutter for flicking between high and low beam aswell?

Andy

ps IMHO standard 322 lights are far better than p38s.

Andy, the larger light (outer) should change - noticably, there is a shutter inside the projector that will move away from the globe if all is well.

For your new lights, at the Right Hand Headlight (colours different for left), when on high beam you should have a + power on 2 pins that the old light don't have - 4 & 5.
Pin 6 – White & Blue (inner halogen light – same as halogen assembly) + used for flash as well
Pin 4 - Green & Red ( + ignition feed from passenger fuse box – fuse # 32 to the Xenon ECU)
Pin 5 - White & black (main beam + feed (switch wire) control the shutter

[harlie]

It’s up and running and nowhere near straight forward like the D3/4…

Important correction to add to the last two posts I made; - RAVE circuit diagrams have the colours incorrect. The colours I mentioned above are listed as Main Beam (high) but (in my car) they are definitely Dipped Beam (Low).

High beam is Yellow & Blue on the RHS / White & Green on the LHS (colours listed for Dipped). Interesting is that the Dipped beam wire is considerably heavier than the Main (2.5 v 1.5), would help explaining the trouble with the harness supplying a good supply.

[fraser130]

I just thought I'd throw in some info that I have.....
I recently bought a Td6 '02 L322 that has had HID's fitted to the main beam, and the extra high beam spots. The light is amazing, I have never had better lights on a car.
It also has LED lights for the front parkers, and LED lights for the number-plate lights.
Every time I started the car I would get a check main beam and check side lights etc....
So yesterday I made up a little circuit with 2 transistors, one diode, and a bunch of resistors....I downloaded some software called "Navcoder", paid the owner 20 Euro ($29), he sent me the serial number to activate it overnight, so this morning at work in the car park I read the LCM settings, disabled the "cold" and "warm" monitoring and "coded" the LCM ......now no warnings!!!!!
Took all of 25 seconds.
All up it cost me about $35 (including the software!) and has to be a MUCH better way of doing it instead of mucking about with shunt resistors!
2 words of advice, download the software, pay for it, then update to the Beta version, then do the coding, as the beta has a much better interface but costs 25 Euro if you try and register that! And secondly, I think it only works for up to 2005 L322's, but I'm not sure
If anyone is in Melb and wants to come around I'll do theirs for a beer.
It does a few other things too, but I only have a MID display, so I can't use all the Nav and TV stuff that it does.

Any questions, ask away, I'll try to answer.
Cheers,
Fraser

[harlie]

Agree! Exactly what I've done Fraser, funny timing I only got back to it on the weekend as I had another kit to try. I ended up still using a relay to power the 55w HID in the mainbeam lights (modified the HID kit loom to include a fuse and relay in the power supply to the ballast so it is still completely separate from the car's wiring and can be removed if needed) but used Navcoder to change the LCM settings for the warnings. Navcoder is very limited in terms of the LCM but it covers what we need for this...

Just changing the mainbeam to HID has made a monumental difference. I imagine with a set of HID Driving Lights yours would be amazing. I wish I had something to bolt them to.

While looking to do the same mod to our other car (same style LCM controlled system but over CAN BUS) I purchased a 35w HID kit that advertises "No Bulb out errors". Over the weekend I fitted it to the L322 to test and it runs fine off the factory loom (max of 5.8amp on startup) and does indeed hide the warnings without recoding the LCM, I was going to chuck the 55s, however after a night drive the 35s are nowhere near as bright so the 55s went back in (hence the need for a relay) - new 35s in the 2nd car. However the 55w kit I purchased originally did make life difficult just figuring out what was going on, knowing all that now, if starting this again would use a 35w kit, wouldn't notice what missing if I hadn't tried the brighter kit, but it's done now - and they are absurdly bright...

Those interested do a search on ebay for "EDX v1 HID H7 Xenon Kit for VW GOLF". Makes it really simple, plug'n'play - no coding needed.

Speaking of Navcoder. There is an option to disable the trailer light warning. I would like to try that out on an LED trailer to see if it gets around the shunt issue as well - I have a feeling they will still flash as it will hide the warning but still cold test, unfortunately my trailer now has the shunt box built in so I need to find one to test, what’s the chance you have one? Even if it takes care of the errors it would mean that a "fix box" could be much simpler.

Navcoder will work on all IBus vehicles, I'm sure the LCM was nearly the last IBUS ecu to be changed and it will be there up until MY07, easy check to see if that White/Grey/yellow wire is there...

[fraser130]

There is an option to disable the trailer light warning. I would like to try that out on an LED trailer to see if it gets around the shunt issue as well - I have a feeling they will still flash as it will hide the warning but still cold test, unfortunately my trailer now has the shunt box built in so I need to find one to test, what’s the chance you have one? Even if it takes care of the errors it would mean that a "fix box" could be much simpler.

Navcoder will work on all IBus vehicles, I'm sure the LCM was nearly the last IBUS ecu to be changed and it will be there up until MY07, easy check to see if that White/Grey/yellow wire is there...


Harlie, if you have the beta of Navcoder, if the trailer warning "cold" is disabled, I'm pretty sure that stops the testing pulses when the lights are off; "warm" is current sensing while lights are on.

[fraser130]

Agree! Exactly what I've done Fraser, funny timing I only got back to it on the weekend as I had another kit to try. I ended up still using a relay to power the 55w HID in the mainbeam lights (modified the HID kit loom to include a fuse and relay in the power supply to the ballast so it is still completely separate from the car's wiring and can be removed if needed) but used Navcoder to change the LCM settings for the warnings. Navcoder is very limited in terms of the LCM but it covers what we need for this...

...

Harlie,
I'm actually wondering if enabling "warm" setting on the main beam will still throw an error, I think I'll try it at lunch, I guess it depends on how much current the HID's draw, and if it's enough not to trigger the warning....I think the likes of Faultmate lets you adjust the threshold of the triggers, but I need to be a little more "fluid" before I can try that.....

Okay, I just enabled "warm" testing on my low beam and high beam lights, and I get no warnings come on, so I'm guessing if one of my HID's stops working, I'll get a warning!

Cheers,
Fraser

[harlie]

Okay, I just enabled "warm" testing on my low beam and high beam lights, and I get no warnings come on, so I'm guessing if one of my HID's stops working, I'll get a warning!



No sure - if the globe blows I don't think you will get a warning, If the ballast fail you might get a warning. The LCM test for continuity so even if the ballast fails but still manages to consume some power and create a closed circuit the LCM will be happy. Interesting to see results of failure points. Remember that with factory bixexons the LCM doesn’t test the dipped beam circuit at all.

I’m not running the later BETA version of navcoder so I didn’t see the option of cold testing on the trailer – I’ll upgrade and have a look but I still need to find a trailer to test, another point to consider is that not all versions of the BMW LCM have all of the options that navcoder tries to do.

[fraser130]

No sure - if the globe blows I don't think you will get a warning, If the ballast fail you might get a warning. The LCM test for continuity so even if the ballast fails but still manages to consume some power and create a closed circuit the LCM will be happy. Interesting to see results of failure points. Remember that with factory bixexons the LCM doesn’t test the dipped beam circuit at all.

I’m not running the later BETA version of navcoder so I didn’t see the option of cold testing on the trailer – I’ll upgrade and have a look but I still need to find a trailer to test, another point to consider is that not all versions of the BMW LCM have all of the options that navcoder tries to do.

I'm about to put LED lights on my trailer - it may take a week or so.....I'll let you know how I go...... also, my RR is an 02 model, so I would imagine I have an early version of the LCM....

Cheers,
Fraser

[harlie]

please let us know how the trailer goes.

L322 should have V11 of the LCM until the late 2005 update unless it has auto headlights. only way to be sure is to check the numbers on the LCM itself, do you know where it is? Don't need any tools to get to it.

[harlie]

Bugger - beta version bombs out when trying to code. He has added a lot to this new version, will be good once it's stable.

[harlie]

Hey Fraser – the LCM only controls whether the trailer errors are displayed to the driver, it’s going to be the Trailer Control Module that has the cold test settings, so programming the LCM is not going to stop the LED trailer lights flashing.

I’m in talks with the author about the code index issue with the beta version so I will ask the Q. I’m not even sure if the TCM is programmable.

[fraser130]

Bugger - beta version bombs out when trying to code. He has added a lot to this new version, will be good once it's stable.

I had that issue, but changed the setting in the options to "200" (was it latency?) - I can't remember - but Harlie, I had an issue last night where the car wouldn't start - it would crank, but not fire - I had to leave it overnight at work - it started first time this morning though! there was a fault code in the LCM "ecu eeprom faulty" however, I did do a "scan all modules" in Navcoder, which might have upset something.
Hmmmmmmm.....

[harlie]

I had that issue, but changed the setting in the options to "200" (was it latency?) - I can't remember - but Harlie, I had an issue last night where the car wouldn't start - it would crank, but not fire - I had to leave it overnight at work - it started first time this morning though! there was a fault code in the LCM "ecu eeprom faulty" however, I did do a "scan all modules" in Navcoder, which might have upset something.
Hmmmmmmm.....

:eek: the immobiliser is on the iBus… I noticed the beta version didn't even read the settings correctly

[fraser130]

I had that issue, but changed the setting in the options to "200" (was it latency?) - I can't remember - but Harlie, I had an issue last night where the car wouldn't start - it would crank, but not fire - I had to leave it overnight at work - it started first time this morning though! there was a fault code in the LCM "ecu eeprom faulty" however, I did do a "scan all modules" in Navcoder, which might have upset something.
Hmmmmmmm.....

Just a quick follow-up on the non-starting issue - it was the inline fuel pump failing....tank was less than 1/4 full......replaced with one from Poland from ebay ($85 incl postage), and all is well.

[alahmed]

hello


i was trying to do the same as Harlie , which is replacing my 2004 Range Rover Head Light halogen with 55wat Xenon can-bus, and i have faced the same problem which flickering/flashing Xenon light

but there is a strange point.

as you know you have two ways to turn on your headlight.
1- moving forward the signal light stick to turn it on continuously (Result = Flickering).
2- moving backward the signal light stick to temporary use the headlight to flash the drivers in front of you ( the 55wat Xenon will keep working perfectly with no flickering if you keep pressing that stick).

is it means , there is two different lines feeding the headlight.

Regards

Ahmed

[harlie]

No, one wire. However the LCM uses different logic. I noticed this also and assume it sets a higher 'short' threshold, no idea why.

[alahmed]

No, one wire. However the LCM uses different logic. I noticed this also and assume it sets a higher 'short' threshold, no idea why.

Thank you Harlie

in this case , the only solution i am thinking of is to use an automatic way to feed the xenon head light with the needed voltage or power , and disconnected it when the bulbs is ON.

i am not sure if my idea is accurate and correct , so correct me if i am wrong.

the new power source or cable should be controlled by a device (if its available).

this device will monitor the Head light power cable.

when you turn on your head light , the mentioned device will recognize that and connect temporary the other power source/cable for 3 or 5 seconds and then close it.

if what i am saying is achievable then the 55W Xenon kit will get the enough/the required power to start.

after that the head light will be feeded with the bower by the LCM without any interference by the mentioned device.

i have no dialectical knowledge and so i do not know if there is a device could do that.

So what do you think?

[harlie]

What you describe sounds more complicated than it needs to be. Suppose you could fit a standard relay supplied source in parallel…

Either use a 35w kit that promises no CAN errors, or if like me you are too suborn and really want 55w+ fit a relay and turn the bulb checking off. The factory wiring remains unchanged; the relay goes into the HID kit wiring. Refer to post 27&28.

[Declan]

Ok lads I bought a set of 35watt hid xenon kit (EDX v1 HID H7 Xenon Kit for VW GOLF )for the range rover as mention by harlie , what I need to know now is how did you put the globe and wiring into the light cover without having to drill for the wires to pass thru, or did you drill a hole for the cables ? any feedback would be appreciated.

Cheers Deco.

[Homestar]

I just drilled holes in the back covers when I did mine. The gromet supplied fills the hole up fine.

[Declan]

Thanks Bacicat that all I was looking for was confirmation that is the way to go thanks mate.

[donrover0]

I've just ordered sets of 35w (low beam) and 55w ( high beam) from China.
$55 and $90 respectively, including postage.
Both claim "canbus- no error message".
Will advise when they arrive and are fitted.

[donrover0]

Update on the cheapie Chinese HID lights.
No problems with error codes.
Bright enough but I'll soon look at 55w for low beam also. I'll put the 35w set in the fog lights!
Because of the "no canbus error" bizzo, the lights take a few seconds to reach full brightness when first turned on ( and if low beam on for a while, then high beam not instant).
I don't find this a problem, so I think a good change made.

Merry Christmas all!