1st purchase

[rover_rob]

Hey guys, just after abit of guidance on buying my first defender, i have a budget of 25,000 maybe a bit over, but just dont have the knowledge of these cars. Im 22 and dont make much dosh as ive been saving for donkeys to buy one so just after general repairs and running costs, things to look for when buying, best year models. I dont want anything too old so i have been looking at 2000 and earlieri guess i dunno. Just after any feed back into what im in for.
I live in mittagong nsw and want a want a reliable 4x4 to be a daily driver and a good weekend away as im always heading down the coast, planning a trip to tasmania too.

[Bluefox]

First thing I can think of: Take one for a decent test drive and make sure you like the seating position and the lack of right elbow room. Defenders are from another era and so is the seating.

TDI engines (up to 1998 I think) are mechanically driven and are able to be worked on by most mechanics. TD5 engines (1999 - 07) are run by an ECU and other electronic witchcraft.

If you get a TD5 wagon, make sure all the things like traction control and anti-lock braking system work ok.

There's tons and tons of after market gear for the Defa (especially from the UK)

Expect panel gaps, no two Defenders line up the same ( I took to my TD5 wagon with a tube of Sellys No More Gaps to seal it) :)

Ask question on the forums, there's years of knowledge here and a bunch of great guys.

Hope my info insn't too useless and welcome to the forum!

[Didge]

Hi Rover Rob, welcome to the best site on the net. Firstly,
I have to say I hate my laptop cos I had all this typed out and then it decided to spit the dummy so here goes again if I can remember it all.
Rules are: you gotta give it a name and also wave to other Defender drivers; that's absolute, just like gravity and taxes!
You come to love your Def just like the family pet; somehow they have that effect hence the relative scarcity of good ones for sale.
Things to look our for:
RUST, RUST, RUST ; in the bottom of all the doors and the front footwells; pull all the mats right out of the car (don't simply lift them and look - take them out and throw them on the ground and look really hard for rust at the front of the footwells where they meet the firewall and near the front pillars.
LEAKS - they all leak and LR have produced a Water ingress manual that is on this forum. give it a hose down and then look for leaks in the front from the windscreen hinges and that stupid piece of rubber separating the windscreen from the firewall/ bulkhead, from the roof seams and the rear sliding windows.
check out the integrity of the sealant in the gutters.
BACKLASH or slack in the drivetrain (a biggish jolt when you release the clutch); they all have it to some degree but it shouldn't be really excessive. Too much could mean the ball joint on top of the rear diff needs replacing ($180 ish fitted) and/ or the rear axles and wheel hubs are worn ($150 + install); can be inspected by getting someone else to release the clutch and you remove the rubber dust covers to the rear axles and look for any movement between the axle and hub. It's pretty obvious when you see it.
BRAKES - you should definitely be able to lock up the wheels; if not if could be the brake booster pump (in the side of the block) - $350 installed or the vacumn servo unit ($200 + install = say $350) or other more obvious worn/ faulty brake components.
AIR CON - probably won't work and doesn't work the best anyway.
The speedo will probably we way out. eg. Mine reads around 115 when I'm doing 100.
Sagging roof linings - just got a quote of $500 if they do the lot or around $350 - 400 if you remove and re install after they reglue new lining to the backing.
There's obviously more but I can't think of them just now.
Look forward to meeting you on one of the many daytrips organised from here. They're a great way to discover the capabilities of these awesome machines. As Isuzu-too-eh (Mark) commented to me recently; the limits of a Defender are determined by the driver and judging by what I've seen on the few trips I've been on with these guys, it's an accurate observation. Oh, I might add, the limits are also determined by how much expendable income you have to put towards damage repairs :)
I paid $13K for mine 2 years ago
cheers Gerald

[tennismark]

I am in the similar siuation as you Rover Rob, the more time I spend watching this site, the more I want a defender against all my logical thoughts. I havent driven one, but like many have heard many negative things, but read this forum and you'll hear just as many great things. i do want something different, too.
i will continue to read this post for info. Some very knowledgable folks here.
if my budget was $40 plus, what would you guys recomend? Which year?:)
Look forward to reading more and Rob.......good luck with your choice

[ugu80]

Sagging roof linings - just got a quote of $500 if they do the lot or around $350 - 400 if you remove and re install after they reglue new lining to the backing.



I fixed mine myself for no cost........I took it out.

Age is irrelevant. Condition (with service history) is the important bit.

[Didge]

....... Some very knowledgable folks here.
if my budget was $40 plus, what would you guys recomend? Which year?:)
.......choice
2 x $20K Defenders:cool::D;):p If you spend $40+ on one car you won't want to get it dirty or scratched (bush pinstriped)

ugu80 - yeah I'll do the same but I'm thinking of lining it with something different like crushed velvet or something bohemian:DI've already got the ceiling out looking for a roof leak that comes down, hits the front passenger door and then the passenger's left knee:(

[ugu80]

yeah I'll do the same but I'm thinking of lining it with something different like crushed velvet or something bohemian:DI've already got the ceiling out looking for a roof leak that comes down, hits the front passenger door and then the passenger's left knee:(

Red crushed velvet with tassels. Now there's a different look.

[Didge]

hahaa- now that's a thought, gold tassles and royal red. I was thinking of the royal purple considering the queen used to drive a black county which is where I first obtained the desire for a 110, and it's not that I fancied the queen either. Actually, there is a company that makes ceiling tiles for commercial offices but they finish them with fine aluminium expanded metal (over a black foam) and it looks fantastic but is horrendously expensive at, from memory around $400/m2. I just can't justify $1200 for the ceiling. Anyway, that's a bit off track from the topic of this thread isn't it?!

[Beckford]

If you spend $40+ on one car you won't want to get it dirty or scratched (bush pinstriped)

Got some blackberry scratches down the sides of my 2010 Puma. Whoops. Nothing which won't Buff Out? Right?

But seriously, at 22 get something you won't mind if you (or girlfriend or boyfriend) reverse over a gum tree, wipe out a concrete column in a car park, misjudge the bollards at McDonalds or demolish a guard rail on the Bells Line road with. (talking from experience)

I wish my first 4wd was a Defender. Instead of parking it under a tree in the paddock, it would have been worth dropping a 2nd donk in it.

Beckford.

[newhue]

I park outside jobs and talk to clients, and they often comment on how purposeful and practical my Defer looks. I know that's only looks, but little do they know just how true those words are and what it does on the weekends.
This is my first Defender as well, and I have to say after a couple teething issues I have nothing but praise for it.

rover rob, Id imagine $25K will se you with a decent TD5. Because they have an ECU some don't find them attractive, bit harder to work on due to the electrical side of things. It also means you can't fill the cab with water and keep driving it like a TDi, but it's rare you'll be doing that if at all anyway.

Tennismark, with $40K you could step into the 21st century and pick up a second hand PUMA. Again same as the TD5 on electric's but the Air Con works effectively, a lot quieter, perhaps comfier seats, and certainly more zip than previous models. From my experience however the common rail motor doesn't necessarily make them more economical, or more powerful with it tiny 90kw, it just deliveries the power better with a 6 speed box.

Perhaps for both of you, one thing to get over is your mates bagging you out because they are ignorant. I found after that I had to appreciate a Defer for what it is, a 4x4. It's not a racy, showy truck that you slob in like the Japanese models. You sit up right, close to the door so you don't fly about the cab. If the hand brake annoys you than you are slobing and it's only a matter of time before you get adjusted. They leak, but you can hose them out. And after you get your head around they are built like nothing you have seen before, they are easy to work on and have space to stuff all over the place.

Lastly on roof lining, as an idea. I recently put some "Sound Shield" under bonnet sound and head insulation on the rear wall to reduce druming. It's self adhesive, pliable, and finished in a smooth nylon feel. About $50 per roll, 1500x1000.
Obviously you will need a few rolls, but joints and misalignment are what Defers are all about.

[Didge]

.....Lastly on roof lining, as an idea. I recently put some "Sound Shield" under bonnet sound and head insulation on the rear wall..........but joints and misalignment are what Defers are all about.

Ooh that sounds like an idea and here I was thinking about stripping off the vinyl and painting it black with red and yellow flames down the length like the old hot rods had on their sides-- just a thought I had today whilst doing my domestic chores.

Newhue - I agree wholeheartedly with every word you wrote.
Young fellas - get thee selves some defenders and I'll bet my left one they outlast your girlfriends (now matter how pretty they are) :D

[tennismark]

Boys I hear ya loud and clear!!!:)
I guess the best thing is get in one and take it for a good drive and then see how it suits me or not.
Is it pretty easy to fit 33's ona defender? What other essential modes are needed? I'm after a daily driver, weekend warrior,tourer and fun machine.
If you guys could do it again, how would you do it???

[landcol]

I am also in similar situation rover rob,if you don't mind me asking everyone,is 180-200 k to many k's to be buying a td5 at?I know(and I'm sure I'm upsetting some of the die hards)that I would buy any Toyota or the Nissan 4.2 at this,but are we talking head gaskets and bottom end time?considering of course it has been serviced at least every 10000.thanks heaps

[Didge]

Boys I hear ya loud and clear!!!:)
I guess the best thing is get in one and take it for a good drive and then see how it suits me or not.
Is it pretty easy to fit 33's ona defender? What other essential modes are needed? I'm after a daily driver, weekend warrior,tourer and fun machine.
If you guys could do it again, how would you do it???
I'd check all the things I mentioned and barter a fair bit harder, but with competition to get one cheap, you may still have to pay more than you want. I had to beat off stiff competition to get mine. If you look at redbook.com.au you will see private sale prices that are way under what you pay in Sydney; maybe they're correct for other states but not NSW.