351W EFI into Classic Rangie

[FIXR7]

G'day folks,

I thought it was time I moved this into the correct forum.
So following on from this thread...
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/wa-aulroians-group/110482-zf-auto.html (http://www.aulro.com/afvb/wa-aulroians-group/110482-zf-auto.html)

This is my 351 conversion thread.

After a trial fit of the engine and trans on Sunday it's looking pretty good.
Here's a pic of the trans with the ZF extension housing in between under the car.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/07/541.jpg

And the clearance to the front driveshaft.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/07/542.jpg

The whole deal out of car again.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/07/543.jpg

Looks like we'll be able to get the transfer a lot closer because these bosses can be ground off the case for even more clearance.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/07/544.jpg

here you can see the original spud shaft is in place with the output spline up against it. So you can see there's even a possibility to have it closer still, once the new spud shaft is made. Since this photo we've decided that a 45mm spacer is what we'll use. So the ZF extension and the 4R70 extension have been taken off to be measured on a Zeiss machine and the data spat out to CAD for design.
Hope to get the spud shaft design off to the spline cutters this week too.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/07/545.jpg

Nice strong 31spline output shaft

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/07/546.jpg

Finally got the pan off tonight. Looks nice and clean.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/07/547.jpg

[FIXR7]

Ok, I took a sample 31 spline yoke and the stock spud shaft down to the machine shop today. Then they asked if I could bring the gearbox output shaft down but they also said that heat treating would possibly put it out of shape!? After some more discussion the price suddenly went from $150 per spline to $750 for two splines!?
So who knows someone who can actually do this job in Perth?

[FIXR7]

Initial design of adapter....

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/07/436.jpg

[FIXR7]

Stripped out the stock ECU and Harness today and, as I've decided to use an EB-ED 5.0L Falcon EECIV, I picked up a harness for $50 today also.
Here's the stock harness...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/07/372.jpg

And here compared to the Falcon harness. You see there's a lot of extra wiring because ABS is incorporated into the Falcon harness as well...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/07/373.jpg

Here I've stripped out the ABS(the pile of wire and connectors next to it)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/07/374.jpg

[jbell110]

Good work, would luv a ride when your done !!

Jeff

[FIXR7]

Thanks Jeff,

You're on! Hopefully sooner rather than later.
Looks like we might be welding a yoke to the spud shaft at this stage.
Because, apart from one place I went to who would machine an internal spline(but suggested it would be difficult), every other place either didn't ring back or didn't answer their phone in the first place!?!

Pete.

[jbell110]

Theres a guy down here in busselton who has all the gear for splines
& stuff I could get his no. if you need it..

Jeff

[FIXR7]

Thanks Jeff,

We're going to try welding now but I would still like those details for future reference.
"Farmport" told me about his AOD behind a diesel Landy conversion punching out over 600nm that he did 12 years ago and it's still going strong with a yoke welded to the spud shaft.
I've got a 31 spline yoke from a BF GT which has a bit more meat near it's end than a std universal type yoke. This will be machined down and bored at the aforementioned end and then interference press fit over the slightly machined down stock spud shaft and then welded.

[banarcus]

Any progress Pete?

[FIXR7]

Not a great deal Banarcus,

Waiting for my mate to machine the adapter and the yoke and spud shaft so we can weld it together.
The Optishift unit arrived the other day so I've been mucking around with the software. You can enable paddle shift with it too. I'm thinking of using a BA Falcon sequential shifter rather than bothering with a paddle set up.
I got them to send me a digital range sensor switch with it too...they're better than the analog ones and besides the one on my box is smashed.
The TCU box is quite small and has a bright orange LED display which shows what gear you're in and a programming/control knob so I think I'll mount it in the console near the shifter. Oh and I'll be making a new console because as you probably know the stock ones are ****e!
I'm discovering what mods to do to the trans while it's out of the car so I'll be ordering some parts for that soon.
Done a little more on the harness and will probably run the trans harness out the same big grommet in the firewall as the engine harness.
Been looking at engine mounts and the EF-EL Falcon ones look good if I can get them in there.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/08/746.jpg

[FIXR7]

Got a set of these Boss style covers the other day. They're almost the same height as the stock ones.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/09/1168.jpg

here's how it would look with the HO upper adapted to the truck lower...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/09/1169.jpg

It appears to be close to the lowest height option, although the Holley systemax2 upper is believed to be the same height as this HO upper. It's unknown how the underside will clear the rails and of course the T-body would have to face the drivers side if it were used.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/09/1170.jpg

[FIXR7]

Righto I dummied up the block with the Falcon style front cover and AU water pump. The upper is just sitting there with a 65mm Edelbrock T-body. I gave the block a hit with rust converter and grey paint.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/09/763.jpg

This is the 90 degree oil filter adapter you can get from Ford Racing...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/09/764.jpg

[jakeslouw]

I'm drooling......[thumbsupbig]

I gotta start saving for my Lexus V8 & auto box......

[FIXR7]

Yep, get going man! Save save!

[banarcus]

Pete you should be able to knock off an adapter that sits between the upper and lower couldn't you? That would give you the needed clearance too.

[FIXR7]

Yeah I could but for 99 bucks from BC broncos it's not even worth thinking about so, one of them is on it's way.

[FIXR7]

Finally some progress was made. We got busy yesterday and made the adapter plate on Tonys' NC converted mill. Starting on the lathe the centre sections were done. That's a 60 x 280 x 280 ally plate...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/11/450.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/11/451.jpg

The adapter shaft with an alignment mandrel up it's date before welding...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/11/452.jpg

Then onto the mill. Here's about the only bit I did...drilling and tapping the holes....

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/11/453.jpg

Here's one of the servo drives Tony made for conversion of the mill....

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/11/454.jpg

A screen shot of the control software...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/11/455.jpg

And an action video...

Rangie :: IMG_0069.mp4 video by XR9UTE - Photobucket@@AMEPARAM@@http://vid9.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vid9.photobucket.com/albums/a73/XR9UTE/Rangie/IMG_0069.mp4@@AMEPARAM@@vid9@@AMEPARAM@@9@@AMEPARA M@@a73/XR9UTE/Rangie/IMG_0069@@AMEPARAM@@mp4

Close to done...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/11/456.jpg

Finished item compared to the original ZF adapter/extension housing...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/11/457.jpg

Bolted onto the trans...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/11/458.jpg

and then the transfer. Note the top section for bolting up of the shifter, is recessed. This is to allow a 10mm plate to be bolted up which will allow an adjustable shifter position depending on where the final engine/trans assembly will sit in the body...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/11/459.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/11/460.jpg

Some small un-needed bosses cut off the side of the case gave the clearance needed for the prop shaft...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/11/461.jpg

Ready to slide under for a dummy up...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/11/462.jpg

Cheers.

[rovercare]

Awesome:)

[FIXR7]

Cheers bloke!
Oh, I picked up an AU3 220kw(Explorer)intake the other day brand new for $350 then a Lightning GT40 lower appeared on ebay for $500 so I snapped that up too. here's the two lowers...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/11/447.jpg

and the Explorer upper on the 351 lower...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/11/448.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/11/449.jpg

[FIXR7]

I tried to jack the thing up last night but I can't get the balance right and after measuring,the jack won't lift high enough anyway.
Looks like I'll be throwing the whole show on a trailer and taking it to my mates house who has a hoist.

[rovercare]

Keep up the pictures, it'll be a good conversion

When I put the 351windsor in my rangie, I just made a box plenum, but as we all know runner lengths make a big difference, I was going to supercharge mine so wasn't concerned

[FIXR7]

Will do.
Was yours a manual conversion?

[rovercare]

C9 - lt95

[FIXR7]

Wasn't the C4 conversion something they did in the early 80's? I seem to remember someone mentioning that and 727 torqueflite autos back then. I was led to believe you got either, if you wanted an automatic?
Did you end up with the supercharger on it and what type?

[rovercare]

No, 84-5 you got a 727, earlier was likely a c9(4) or bw35, the odd t350 floating around also

Never put the blower on, it was a Holley 177

I'll be hoping to put an eaton mps1900 on the ls1 when I fit it to the p38

[FIXR7]

I remember now, I think it was '79 or '80 that you could get a C4 because it was after our '78 that we learned of the auto being available.
btw there's no such thing as a C9 or 10. That's just something someone made up to describe the different versions but, all it does is confuse everyone.
The holley I've seen adapted to a 351 truck lower with an adapter plate, goes very well I believe. You can get new kits from BH superchargers for Eaton TVS blowers onto both 5.0 and 5.8...beautifully machined too.
I have a P38 transfer kickin around at work, are they much stronger than the RRC one? They look substantially bigger.

[rovercare]

Heard the c4 story before, but c9 and c10 denotes change, anyhow

Not sure on p38 case strength to be honest, aside from the vc failing, I've never heard of a failure

[FIXR7]

Do you know if the VC is the same unit as the classic one? The suggestion has been made that the BW transfer itself is not weak, it's just that the VC failure can be a PITA? I did prefer the BW operation to the LT230 I must say...I think the driveability was better. Of course my adapter will allow the BW to be used again if i want....I think I'll bang that on there for a try when it's on the hoist.

[rovercare]

Do you know if the VC is the same unit as the classic one? The suggestion has been made that the BW transfer itself is not weak, it's just that the VC failure can be a PITA? I did prefer the BW operation to the LT230 I must say...I think the driveability was better. Of course my adapter will allow the BW to be used again if i want....I think I'll bang that on there for a try when it's on the hoist.

It's different in that the p38 is passenger side drop, classic is drivers side, similarity of internals I don't know, I'm thinking it's strong enough and most viscous failures are 200+k boxes, when mine fails I'll just fit new internals

Im going to load mine with LSD diffs, with the viscous and rear traction control it will limit driver intervention, with a cammed ls1 and intercooled supercharger, 3:1 first gear, I think low range will only be for descents:D

[BigJon]

I am pretty sure the actual VC is the same between the Classic and P38 transfer cases.

[tebone]

Awesome photo's,
Looks like it going to be a ripper of a conversion.
I have a question, is it better with the fords to go to a 3 speed transmission instead of a 4 speed?

I have a 4 speed in mine (turbo 700) and I can't bragg enough on how good the first gear and 4th gear with the lock up convertor.

[FIXR7]

Thanks lads,
Passenger side drop counts that one out then.
Glad you like it tebone, 4 speed is the way to go and the electronic control has obvious benefits for fuel economy and driveabilty. I can in fact program for lock up in every gear. I think the only reason people have stuck to C4's in the past is because they were already used and therefore the parts are readily available.

[tebone]

FIXR7,
Make sure the 351 has plenty power as I was a little disappointed with the chev power which I eventually slapped a blower on it. As you know it doesn't take long to get use to the power.
Look forward to hearing about the final package.

Regards Paul

[FIXR7]

To true Paul,

We'll I know first hand how these engines go in other cars so I'm pretty sure I'll be happy with it. I first put one in an old '66 XR Falcon in the early 90's and it was just so much fun to drive with heaps of low end torque. Even with 3:1 gears and Toploader it was able to do a 14.4 dead stock. Then a switch to the GT40 intake got me flat 14's/high 13's with no other changes and that car wasn't light either.
So I'm going to chuck it in stock then add GT40 intake and 40Yally heads and 1.7 rockers and maybe a small hyd roller cam if I want more hp.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/11/260.jpg

[tebone]

Great photo,
Sounds like the XR is a strong car.
Just from my experience from my 86 classic rangie they are a heavy car with all the bolt ons (bull bars etc) and are a brick trying to push all that wind. With the power also going through a transfer case it takes alot more hp/torque to get the thing going than a street car.
My combo was 383 chev,brodix alloy heads,hyd roller etc etc..
In the last year i installed a magna charger blower (eaton m122) running 9.5 boost. What a difference in torque FIXR in the old classic.

Talking with Rovercare which he has been involved with gen 3 conversions he believes they lack a little torque which has been confirmed by other guys with these conversions but have great top end power. Some guys have been a little disappointed as they have to get it in the rev range.

Hopefully the ford combo generates a lot of torque to get the classic going.

Regards Paul

[FIXR7]

Cheers Paul,The XR was a great car until some asshole turned in front of me and wrote it off!

Righto got it under there this morning by myself and made my sore back and stuffed shoulder even more so.
The F-series mount and piece of crossmember I used as a balanced jack point which worked very well after I welded the rubber mount solid:D
I started by just bolting it up in the original position just to see where the bell would end up...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/11/207.jpg

As you can see it sticks out a bit but, it's not as far forward as i expected.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/11/208.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/11/209.jpg

Bolted up the engine to see where we're at with clearance. Looks like it'll be through the bonnet where the T-body sits but not where the back of the plenum sits near the firewall. I think I'll set the whole lot back about 50-60mm and the HO upper will still clear....the other intakes I don't think so, unless I can find a GT40 upper which I believe is a smidge shorter than the Cobra/Explorer upper.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/11/210.jpg

[FIXR7]

Whilst I haven't got the driveline in it's final posi yet I can see that propshaft clearance to the pan rail is only about 5-6mm which is probably a little close for comfort so, I'm thinking that as I already need to make a slightly longer shaft I may as well make a solid or at least heavy wall smaller diameter shaft.
There may also be starter clearance issues which the shaft may possibly solve at the same time.
Do you guy's have any idea of options available here?

[PhilipA]

AFAIR the old Chrysler 3 speed autos had a small diameter shaft, I don't know if solid. Probably for the same reason.

Again AFAIR They were the first to use LT230 so maybe a bolt up.
Regards Philip A

[FIXR7]

Thanks Phil,

Probably rare as rocking horse **** though?

Pete.

[rovercare]

Thanks Phil,

Probably rare as rocking horse **** though?

Pete.

I ummed I ahhhhed and one went in the scrap a few weeks ago :(

[FIXR7]

I ummed I ahhhhed and one went in the scrap a few weeks ago :(

Jeez don't tell me **** like that!

[FIXR7]

Ok I was able to do some shed tidying and got enough room to get the rangie in...no more sunburn:)
My mate Ash helped me yesterday with the trans mount relocation. thanks man!
I settled on redrilling the transfer mounting holes 45mm back.
Right hand side, had to cut off a piece of the air suspension air tank bracket to drill the bottom hole...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/166.jpg

LH side...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/167.jpg

So the engine ends up here...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/168.jpg

LH side clearance...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/169.jpg

RH side clearance...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/170.jpg

I may not be able to use EF-L mounts afterall. Diff clearance may be an issue. I might be able to use them without the bottom bracket and use a flat plate on the bottom instead. This may provide the needed clearance.
A solid prop shaft is probably going to be in order here but I can also trim that extra un-needed boss off from under the starter mount.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/171.jpg

[goingbush]

I put a (302w ex f100) and c10 auto with a lowstall converter from pro automatics, and a nissan g60 xfercase with a marks adaptor into a range chassis, but has a series 2 swb body on it did not have your clearance issues.
with the g60 it was not constant 4wd but never a problem. maxis F&R .

It was the bees knees, a lot lighter than a rangie then again it was not an xr8 motor either but I reckon my chipped td5 110 goes just as hard.

good luck with your project.

[FIXR7]

Just measured it up and the mounts will fit with plenty of clearance if I trim off the lower portion of the mount(the part with the bolt hole). I'll make 6mm plate brackets to weld to the chassis.

[FIXR7]

Original mounts...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/01/1115.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/01/1116.jpg

Mounts removed...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/01/1117.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/01/1118.jpg

New mounts started in 5mm steel...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/01/1119.jpg

Pieces of the new mounts...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/01/1120.jpg

Tacked on...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/01/1121.jpg

Welded...



https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/01/1122.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/01/1123.jpg

Mods to RH engine mount for diff clearance. This gives another 25mm higher than the bump stops.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/01/1124.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/01/1125.jpg

and the engine in place..

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/01/1126.jpg

[FIXR7]

Had to make a new bracket for the idler pulley because the original hit the steering box.
I started by cutting this bit off...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/01/987.jpg

Then I made this bracket I. It's 25mm 304 bar and 20x6 304 flat bar. The holes are tapped 3/8" UNC into the flat bar which means the top hole in the original bracket(the one on the left in photo) needs to be drilled out as it's already tapped for 3/8" UNC. It doesn't strictly need to be 3/8" but it works out well for the front bracket hole which is an unused hole that just happens to tap out to 3/8" just nicely without any drilling.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/01/988.jpg

Found some header bolts that worked out nice to hold it on..

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/01/989.jpg

The front of the bracket picks up this hole that I mentioned before. These header bolts are handy although I did have to shorten this one.
The bearing spigot is turned down to 16.75mm with a 6.5mm step and tapped M10x1.5....

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/01/990.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/01/991.jpg

On there....

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/01/992.jpg

Side view. It's not as close as it looks but I'm going to clearance a bit more of the ally bracket where that steering box bolt is close to it.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/01/993.jpg

[FIXR7]

Tried the genie headers that were on the engine when I got it. LH side was a no go but the drivers side just fell on there!?

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/01/962.jpg

[banarcus]

Nice work as usual Pete. The LH shouldn't be a problem given your skills with pacies and EB 351s :)

Doing research on an engine transplant for my Disco but looking at the dark side for repowering mine.

[FIXR7]

Cheers mate,
Yeah I think I'm going to make my own anyway. The Genies are only 1 1/2" and I want to make 1 5/8" jobs which will be better suited to the ally heads I may end up fitting.
Besides I think I'll use stainless too. Strange how every exhaust place I talk to reckons it'll crack but none of the stainless exhausts I've done before have ever cracked! One guy wanted $3.5K to build just the headers!?!

[FIXR7]

Got the propshafts back on Friday. The front is 45mm longer than stock and it's a 1 1/4" heavy wall shaft. The rear is of course shortened 45mm.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/02/1564.jpg

It seems they used another uni end that is larger than the sample shaft I gave them. It still clears but only by about 1mm!? I'll be able to trim a little for clearance so It'll be ok I think, might use an ally pan too, which will make clearancing easier still.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/02/1565.jpg

Looks good otherwise, I'll probably pull the front springs to check for actual bellhousing clearance...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/02/1566.jpg

Got a header kit from Castle. It's all 304 with 1 5/8" primary, 2" secondary and 2 1/2" collectors. Not real impressed with the head plates...they look like bananas but, I'll be able to smack em into shape. This weekend looks like it may be cool enough for some header building too.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/02/1567.jpg

[banarcus]

Making progress. Those tailshafts look good. Did you get them done locally? What sort of price did they sting you for those? I'm going to need something similar for mine.

Looking forward to seeing those extractors too :)

[FIXR7]

Tailshafts were locally made and fairly expensive.$500 for both.
Here's where I got to with the headers on the weekend plus a coupla pipes on the left hand side. It's a bit of fun shaping the round pipes to go in a rectangular hole let me tell you!

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/02/1241.jpg

[Recy Mech]

Stumbled by this thread by pure chance.......and stayed for the wealth of information. Impressed with your fitting skills, excellent work.

[banarcus]

Looks like there is plenty of room there to play with Pete, what about the left side? A bit more squishy I bet. They look great, I remember your thread on a 5.8L EB when you carved up some pacemakers and made them fit. You make these jobs look really easy.

[FIXR7]

Yep left hand side is more squishy for sure. That's the trouble with photo's I suppose, you only see certain points so you don't see how hard it was to get to that point.
The pacemakers on that EB being steel, made it easier to work with in terms of shaping, plus I didn't have to shape the tubes for the head flanges. Of course there were difficulties where two or more pipes meant you couldn't get at the join to weld up, something that doesn't occur when starting from scratch unless you don't think about what you're doing.

[FIXR7]

LH side...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/02/961.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/02/962.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/02/963.jpg

Here's the shifter I'm attempting to use..

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/02/964.jpg

[banarcus]

Nice work Pete. I'll have to take your word for it as far as the photos making it look easier is concerned because the photos make the LH side look pretty simple. The worst part about Windsor heads and extractors are the damned flange bolts. It looks like you have that covered too.

[FIXR7]

Thanks Bloke,
The LH side is much harder to make than the RH but it's not impossible that's for sure. A cleveland or Cleavor would be a piece-o-**** that's for sure.

[FIXR7]

Here's my welding jig(another head) on the steel table I picked up the other day for a 100 bucks...beats clamping the work to the roo bar which is what I was doing up to this point.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/02/563.jpg

Todays' progress...
I've decided to make a new crossmember so that the exhaust is above it not under it like in stock form.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/02/564.jpg

[banarcus]

Looking the goods mate. Blokes kill to have the skill shown in this thread. What's the next step after the headers?

[FIXR7]

Cheers banarcus,

I'm just going to finish the collectors which, although part of the kit leave a lot to be desired so I'll cut and shut them enough to make them work and weld the two bolt 2 1/2" flanges on.
Next, I'll probably make a rectangular section crossmember so I'll have plenty of pan clearance which I might need if I get one of these which are 4 3/4" deep!?....

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/02/540.jpg (http://www.mag-hytec.com/store/images/F%204R70W-DD.jpg)

after that I'll pull the whole lot out again and pull the trans apart for a going over and an attempt at drilling and tapping the output shaft(which is hardened) for the adapter shaft to bolt on.
While that's out I'll finish weld the mounts and drill and paint them.
Btw does anyone know if there's any difference in the coolers inside the radiator tanks? One is for the trans oil and the other for the engine oil. I ask because I want to swap sides.

[roarin8]

Hi bloke, love your work! i think the coolers should be the same internally and if not, as long as you flush them out, swapping shouldn't be an issue!
Was also wondering if your mate that made your trans adaptor would be interested in making another one? I'm about to put an injected windsor in my rangie and have looked at doing an engine plate and have got a tq727 and tx sitting there out of an early rangie, but wouldn't mind retaining the ford 4 spd auto for obvious reasons. I'm guessing your mate could knock another trans adaptor out fairly easily? If he's interested could you let me know how much coin he would want for such a masterpiece? :D
Cheers, Paul.

[FIXR7]

Hi Paul,

Thanks man, glad you like it. I'll ask Tony how much to do the adapter. Would you want the shaft aswell?
I know the lump of ally was something like $200-300 on it's own.
If we get enough interest(and there's been a bit) we'll do a casting.

Cheers,
Pete.

[FIXR7]

Haven't got much done lately because it's been too damn hot! Here's where the headers get to. I've got a piece of 100x50x4 tube and 6mm end plates to make the crossmember which will be below the headers as i said previously.
Otherwise, I've almost completed the EFI harness and I've got an idea how to mod that BF 6spd shifter to work with a rear cable entry rather than the front side.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/03/927.jpg

LH side shot...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/03/928.jpg

RH side shot...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/03/929.jpg

[rovercare]

Nice work:)

[roarin8]

Thanks pete, thats great that there's been some interest! The spud shaft would be handy too, but if its too hard i could get that made here probably... (i know a few people). Look forward to hearing if tony is interested in making the housings though. If its easier for us to swap phone numbers anytime just let me know! otherwise i await your reply! Cheers! Paul.

[FIXR7]

Crossmember progress....

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/03/765.jpg

I'll put these gussets on and box it in so there's no build up of **** on top when in use...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/03/766.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/03/767.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/03/768.jpg

[sneakypete3223]

hello, i was wondering what transmission was used in this swap? and how it turned out? i have an 89 RR and am interested in doing a swap like this.
thanks.

[FIXR7]

hello, i was wondering what transmission was used in this swap? and how it turned out? i have an 89 RR and am interested in doing a swap like this.
thanks.

You are kidding right!?

[sneakypete3223]

no im not kidding, i dont know what transmission was used. there are different ones and i cant tell by the couple of pictures of it. Sorry if my qurestion offends u but the point of a forum board is to ask questions about things u dont know.

[FIXR7]

I've mentioned several times what gearbox it is, especially right back at the start of the original "ZF auto" thread to which I have provided a link to in the very first post. Here it is again....http://www.aulro.com/afvb/wa-aulroians-group/110482-zf-auto.html
I'm happy to answer questions. I update the thread as I make progress so it's not running yet. So it's just disbelief on my part, that if you read the thread you don't already know that.
Anyway it's a Ford 4R70W from a '96 F-series 4wd.

[sneakypete3223]

oh sorry i didnt get to read that other forum before i only got to read the new one and i was unclear if u used the ZF or a ford trans. thanks for clearing it up. im interested in your swap and im looking into doing a swap with my 89 classic. not to go away from the topic but why not use a gm/chevy motor?
the guys where i work are asking me and i was curious about it.

[FIXR7]

No worries Pete but, I wouldn't need to make an adapter for a ZF would I?
And GM sheep always say that. They don't understand that 351's make more torque and are more durable and that this trans is a better choice too.

[rovercare]

No worries Pete but, I wouldn't need to make an adapter for a ZF would I?
And GM sheep always say that. They don't understand that 351's make more torque and are more durable and that this trans is a better choice too.

In comparison to a dirty old 350 your right, but not the later ls stuff, plus those e7 heads have alot to be desired:D

[FIXR7]

In comparison to a dirty old 350 your right, but not the later ls stuff, plus those e7 heads have alot to be desired:D

That's a matter of opinion. LS engines don't make as much low end torque and they have more than their fair share of problems. E7 heads might have small ports that limit outright power but they contribute nicely to that low rpm airspeed. Plus they can be changed easily if required:D

[FIXR7]

Got a bit done today.
Here's the new crossmember compared to original....

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/03/369.jpg

In place, LH side...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/03/370.jpg

RH side...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/03/371.jpg



https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/03/372.jpg

Finished the headers, with exception of HEGO bosses...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/03/373.jpg

Getting there...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/03/374.jpg

[rovercare]

That's a matter of opinion. LS engines don't make as much low end torque and they have more than their fair share of problems. E7 heads might have small ports that limit outright power but they contribute nicely to that low rpm airspeed. Plus they can be changed easily if required:D

I had a 351 Windsor in my rangie years ago, I won't banter about pros and cons of them to ls engines, as they are both far better than a rover motor:D

[FIXR7]

I had a 351 Windsor in my rangie years ago, I won't banter about pros and cons of them to ls engines, as they are both far better than a rover motor:D

That's for sure!
I can't remember if you mentioned, did you run a C4 with yours?

[rovercare]

That's for sure!
I can't remember if you mentioned, did you run a C4 with yours?

Yep c4 lt95

[tebone]

In comparison to a dirty old 350 your right, but not the later ls stuff, plus those e7 heads have alot to be desired:D

Hey rovercare, wants wrong with the dirty old 350? (parts are cheap) a couple of bolt on aftermarket parts and she make the hp. Anyway I think Fixr7 will be chasing more power / torque down the track like all of us it doesn't take long to get use to it.

[FIXR7]

Yep, I'm guilty of that:D
I think I mentioned earlier that I do have some GT40Y ally heads, 1.7 roller rockers and a GT40/Explorer intake plus I'll probably fit a small hyd. roller cam.
We'll try stock first.

[banarcus]

Any progress on the rangie Pete?

[FIXR7]

Any progress on the rangie Pete?

Not a lot man. I've really wrecked my shoulder now so I've been trying not to do much lately. So I've just been accumulating bits.
Got a new Mitsubishi EF-L type 110A alternator and a new E-series Sanden A/C compressor the other day. Tried the compressor and it clears everything by miles.

Managed to get rebuild parts for the 4R70 from the local trans parts place. He actually had them in stock!? I figured if I have to pull the trans apart to drill the output shaft I may aswell put some better bits in it at the same time. Besides I've never built an auto and I'd like to give it a go.

Dropped the radiator back in and started nutting out the hose layout. Looks like a stock E-series top hose will be close to fitting. For the bottom I think I'll make a custom stainless crossover tube much like a stock E-series one, then mix and match some off-the-shelf hoses to it.

[banarcus]

Bad news about your shoulder, I hope winter is kind to you.

I'd love to go a windsor for mine but I can only go AU2/3 as I cannot stick an older motor in it. Looking forward to some updates when you get better.

[FIXR7]

All you need to do is stamp a 5.0 engine number into a 351 block and put a 5.0 plate on top of the intake and you're in business. Piece-o-p i s s

[FIXR7]

Sorry bout the rotten phone camera pics, my good camera was flat.
Here's a photo with the radiator back in and you can see how close the stock E-series top hose goes to fitting. I'll probably get the top outlet on the Radiator changed slightly to suit when I get it seriviced.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/05/1471.jpg

Now for the bottom you can see the original hose will not work but I'll be making a stainless crossover tube and I'll have a small barb for the header tank hose to go on...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/05/1472.jpg

Here's the new compressor in place. Heaps of clearance...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/05/1473.jpg

[banarcus]

Hey nice work Pete. Thanks for the update.

Sent from my HTC Incredible S using Tapatalk 2

[FIXR7]

Ok time for an update.
After buying 4R70w rebuild parts locally I began the search for special tools to do the job myself. I ran into the same problems trying to get U.S. suppliers to sell to a foreign country. One thing I discovered through searching though, was a high performance transmission builder called Hughes Performance.
I sent them an email and rather than getting a half arsed response I got a detailed one with questions answered in order and very well. They are also able to ship via airfreight for less than most of the quotes I got for sea freight!?
So I've ordered a trans from them and should get it this month(another reason for going this way...speed!). They will also drill and tap the output shaft for no charge.

Here's some pics of what I was up to today...

Removed this ARB bar.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/05/822.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/05/823.jpg

Discovered this end broken off the bonnet catch brace...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/05/824.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/05/825.jpg

The trans cooler has some upward force damage to the brackets. No matter because it's going. Anyone know if the plastic filler panel on the bottom is available new?

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/05/826.jpg

Got a new grill from Famous Four parts in the U.K. Didn't realise the bottom edge gets painted.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/05/827.jpg

Anyone know what this sensor if for? It's covered by the grill normally.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/05/68.jpg

As I'm running EL(or maybe AU) Falcon fans I've removed the original auxiliary fans. Plus I need the room to mount a big trans cooler with it's own fan.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/05/828.jpg

Easy to work in here now..

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/05/829.jpg

Looks better already.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/05/830.jpg

[350RRC]

Nice work!

I use genuine fake EL thermos and shroud behind a stock RRC rad with a 350.

Cooler for the C9 is rectangular in front of one side of the rad where one fan runs all the time ign is on. (yes I am slack and haven't done another temp switch)

Has worked well for 80,000 k's so far, can PM pics if you want.

cheers, DL

[FIXR7]

Thanks DL,
Yeah pics are always good.
Send away!

[FIXR7]

Took the radiator to Natrad in Midvale and got them to clean it up and fit a larger top inlet tube to match the E-series top hose. Radiator is in pretty good condition luckily. Bottom outlet is stock.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/05/710.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/05/711.jpg

Cut about this much off the top hose...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/05/712.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/05/713.jpg

[banarcus]

Factory finish mate. Looks great.

[FIXR7]

Look what arrived today. A Box....

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/06/1039.jpg

With this in it...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/06/1040.jpg

and this...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/06/1041.jpg

Exciting times!:D

[Homestar]

Nice :BigThumb:

[banarcus]

Hard core tranny cooler Pete, what did you get done to the box anyway?

[FIXR7]

Cooler is a Derale brand.
There's also a sandwich plate from Performance Automatic.
The trans is basically this and it's been dyno tested. They rate it at 550hp/525lb...more than enough. Good deal for $2700 I reckon.


Part number 53-1C, fully upgraded heavy duty 4R70W 4x4 transmission with red racing frictions, heavy duty steels, Kevlar bands, blueprinted high output front pump, new bushings, new seals, new gaskets, new bearings, new thrust washers, heavy duty intermediate mechanical diode, heavy duty overrun clutch, heavy duty accumulators and servos, custom calibrated valve body for firmer, faster shifts, high flow filter, and all new Ford electronics.
Part number HP5380, deep cast aluminum pan, includes drain plug, holds 2 extra quarts of fluid.
Part number HP8238, heavy duty stacked plate transmission cooler with 6AN male fittings.
Part number 53LXTM, heavy duty Tow Master series lock-up torque converter.

[FIXR7]

Before I yank the engine and trans out again I checked clearances by removing the front springs and jacked the axle up till it lifted the whole front off the ground by the bump stops. Everything has at least 15-20mm clearance except the breather bolt on the axle tube so I'll move that and we'll be in business.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/06/650.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/06/651.jpg

WTF is a Woodhead shock? The ends were certainly weak as ****...had to cut the nut off one.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/06/652.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/06/653.jpg

[FIXR7]

Well I'd had enough of this lean over the engine bay **** so I drilled out the spots to make it a bolt on radiator support panel....

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/1353.jpg

I'll give this a straighten out while it's off too.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/1354.jpg

This allowed me easy access to finish the welding of the engine mounts and paint em up.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/1355.jpg

Makes the rest of it look horrible of course.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/1356.jpg

Here's the axle breather that I moved.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/1357.jpg

Put this bolt in and cut it off flush.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/1358.jpg

Welded it up.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/1359.jpg

This was rather easy to achieve with no radiator support. Engine and trans out in one piece! Next time it will be bolted up to the new trans.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/1360.jpg

[FIXR7]

Match ported the adapter plate to the lower today.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/476.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/477.jpg

The adapter plate also had one of the through holes(the one in the far left bottom of this pic) out of wack a bit so I elongated it a smidge.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/478.jpg

Also finish welded the headers and made sure the flanges were flat and we milled the extension housing top for shifter mounting plate clearance and also made the plate itself(I'll post pics later). I hope to fit the engine and trans next weekend.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/479.jpg

[FIXR7]

Getting it ready to go back in.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/160.jpg

New flexplate and ARP bolts...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/161.jpg

Adapter plate bolted up, shifter adapter plate on top and some work with the die grinder required on the side of the extension housing for shifter linkage clearance...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/162.jpg

The notch in the adapter plate on the bottom side was necessary to clear the bolt heads on the inside edge of the LT230 which, would not have allowed fitting the gearbox with it's adapter plate to the transfer box while still in the car.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/163.jpg

Ready to install...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/164.jpg

And there it is...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/165.jpg

[FIXR7]

The new alloy pan actually gives greater clearance to the driveshaft than the steel pan..

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/42.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/43.jpg

Even so I hit it with the die grinder to get just a little more clearance...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/44.jpg

The pan depth creates clearance problems with the new crossmember.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/45.jpg

10mm to the fins and 5mm to the sump..

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/46.jpg

I'm wondering whether to notch just for the sump or right across to the outside of the fins? Probably should go outside the fins.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/47.jpg

[banarcus]

Nice work as usual Pete, looks really professional :)

[FIXR7]

Didn't get much done this weekend. Plus I feel like **** due to bad news about work.
Did manage to do the trans lines which are 3/8" stainless and the teflon braided stuff aswell. I've run the lines back before coming forward so there's no lines running above the spinning driveshaft..

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/08/627.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/08/628.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/08/629.jpg

[rangieman]

Great build ive been watching with envy well done mate
A small bit of advice separate those lines or they will rub together and in the long term wear a hole , If they are hard against your chassis the same will happen;)

[FIXR7]

Cheers Rangieman,
Yeah those cable ties aren't permanent. Going use some little ally block separators and some metal straps with rubber blocks that I flogged off a DF LTD I'm wrecking.

[FIXR7]

I've been thinking about how to control the thermofan on the trans cooler and, at the same time knowing I wanted some extra gauges to keep an eye on things decided to go with a couple of these... Auto Meter (http://www.autometer.com/media_newsarticle.aspx?aid=106)
They're a bit over $200ea but they can do much more than ordinary gauges which will cost well over $100ea but can't do anything else.
I got a trans temp gauge and an Oil pressure gauge.
So I'll be able to control the fan and it will also change colour and flash the change in colour to warn of exceeded limits, they have memory recall and a 0-5v data logger output.
I looked at some other similar gauges and whilst some were cheaper they didn't have all of the features including, most importantly the output driver.

[gavinwibrow]

I've been thinking about how to control the thermofan on the trans cooler and, at the same time knowing I wanted some extra gauges to keep an eye on things decided to go with a couple of these... Auto Meter (http://www.autometer.com/media_newsarticle.aspx?aid=106)
They're a bit over $200ea but they can do much more than ordinary gauges which will cost well over $100ea but can't do anything else.
I got a trans temp gauge and an Oil pressure gauge.
So I'll be able to control the fan and it will also change colour and flash the change in colour to warn of exceeded limits, they have memory recall and a 0-5v data logger output.
I looked at some other similar gauges and whilst some were cheaper they didn't have all of the features including, most importantly the output driver.
Have you spoken with Autron in Melbourne? Local and very innovative instrument company, with good prices. Link below provides some initial info.

https://autron.evolveshop.com.au/epages/autron.sf/en_AU/?ObjectPath=/Shops/5353109392756724/Categories/%22AI%20Gauges%22

[FIXR7]

Just had a look, Interesting. Reminds me of tech, where I designed an LCD analog face gauge.
I don't like the LCD gauges particularly though.

[FIXR7]

Here's what I got...

Auto Meter (http://www.autometer.com/cat_gaugedetail.aspx?gid=3948&sid=76)

Auto Meter (http://www.autometer.com/cat_gaugedetail.aspx?gid=3944&sid=76)

[Homestar]

Here's what I got...

Auto Meter (http://www.autometer.com/cat_gaugedetail.aspx?gid=3948&sid=76)

Auto Meter (http://www.autometer.com/cat_gaugedetail.aspx?gid=3944&sid=76)

Nice gauges - being American they are imperial - do they do metric versions as well - I couldn't see any listed?

[gavinwibrow]

Here's what I got...

Auto Meter (http://www.autometer.com/cat_gaugedetail.aspx?gid=3948&sid=76)

Auto Meter (http://www.autometer.com/cat_gaugedetail.aspx?gid=3944&sid=76)
I know you don't like the LED version, but in case anyone is interested in local product, this is what I got for my AT temp and engine oil pressure - I also included the amp digital readout at the bottom to make a 3 way gauge. Does have alert levels for the pressure and temp. Cheers

https://autron.evolveshop.com.au/epages/autron.sf/en_AU/?ObjectPath=/Shops/5353109392756724/Products/AI-052.27.030405.2

[FIXR7]

Ok did the notch on the weekend...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/08/228.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/08/229.jpg

Dropped it off for Galvanising today.

[FIXR7]

Also made this stainless crossbar that picks up off the steering gaurd mounts for mounting the crossover tube...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/08/216.jpg

Oh so close with an EL bottom hose! But I have to make an adapter tube with a barb for the header tank anyway so...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/08/217.jpg

Mucked around with the gauge on the bench. works well.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/08/218.jpg

[FIXR7]

Galvanizing done. They had a $150 minimum charge so I got the shock mounts done too. Drilled out the holes and bolted it up last night.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/08/116.jpg

[FIXR7]

Did the fuel lines tonight. -6 fittings from Speedflow and teflon hose and the Fuel rail adapters are from Russell because Speedflow don't make em. Tried to get Aeroflow ones locally but of course they don't have em in stock and they cost more than double the Russell ones!?

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/08/104.jpg

The black pipes are heater pipes from a 5.0 Falcon and are pretty well perfect for a rangie. Just needed to put a slight dent in the pipe closest to the #1 injector for clearance otherwise it bolts on.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/08/105.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/08/106.jpg

This is an E-series Falcon heater tap which I think I'll use because rather than just shut one pipe it diverts the coolant back to the pump.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/08/107.jpg

[FIXR7]

Heres one of those rubber block trans line brackets I got off that LTD wreck.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/09/1337.jpg

welded on brackets to take the trans cooler.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/09/1338.jpg

[banarcus]

This is really taking shape now Pete, looking good.

[FIXR7]

Cheers lads!
Hey do you guy's know if you can get engine enamel in the Land rover dark green like they have in the badges?

[gavinwibrow]

Cheers lads!
Hey do you guy's know if you can get engine enamel in the Land rover dark green like they have in the badges?
I no longer have the paperwork, but I think POR 15 had one very close to that colour

[FIXR7]

Cheers Gavin, I'll check it out.

[FIXR7]

Just checked out their site and they list a Ford green which looks like it's close.

[FIXR7]

Found this supposedly Aussie crowd too...
Motorcoater Engine Enamel (http://www.kbs-coatings.com.au/kbs-motorcoater-engine-enamel)

[gavinwibrow]

Found this supposedly Aussie crowd too...
Motorcoater Engine Enamel (http://www.kbs-coatings.com.au/kbs-motorcoater-engine-enamel)
If the gos is correct, POR 15 was originally "designed" at least in part by an Aussie, who eventually returned home and initiated the KBS formulae

[FIXR7]

Crossover tube mods. There'll be a 5/8" Barb added for the header tank too..

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/09/1204.jpg

[Davo]

Verrrry nice write up, and lots of photos are always appreciated. This will be a great thread for anyone thinking of any big conversion, because it shows all those time-consuming and expensive fiddly bits that make so much work.

[FIXR7]

This handy little device(thanks to Tony)...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/09/1050.jpg

Was helpful in doing this...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/09/1051.jpg

The finished item...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/09/1052.jpg

Here's how the heater tubes lined up with the factory hoses. Pretty bloody good!...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/09/1053.jpg

Which allowed me to fit this tap...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/09/1054.jpg

Put the rails and injectors on and laid the harness on there. Because I'm using the truck lower it has the ACT(Air Charge Temp) sensor in runner number 6 instead of the usual number 5. So the harness needs opening up to drag the ACT wiring back a bit...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/09/1055.jpg

Like so...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/09/1056.jpg

Plugged in...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/09/1057.jpg

Hopefully next weekend I'll fire it up. Most likely that'll be all though, as I still have bit to do trans wise.

[Davo]

How about a couple of pictures of that special tool? I've been meaning to make one for ages.

I was just thinking that while you're at it and have the access, you might want to put some Dynomat Extreme or similar on that lovely white bulkhead behind the engine. I'll be doing the same thing soon - and whatever else it takes to keep that heat out of the interior.

[FIXR7]

Yes Davo, I was thinking about putting the original moulded rubber thingy back on but it's not in the greatest condition. Probably should have done that before I put the engine back in though. That dynomat mob might have something suitable to cut both heat and noise... of course that heater tap I've put in will go a long way to cut down the heat inside.

[Davo]

For my Rangie, I've got a sheet of Dynamat Extreme for just that area. Looking around, I couldn't find anything else that said it would be okay for the engine bay. As a test, I cut a corner off and stuck it on near a cylinder head and it's been fine so far. So when I saw your photos I thought you might want to do that now before it's too late!

For the interior, I got a pile of something called DBkill. It's about the same thing but apparently not rated for under the bonnet. I'll be slapping that stuff down anywhere I can get to inside the car. I'm replacing the engine and gearbox soon, (as in: sometime this decade), and heat and soundproofing is a priority.

I've got the heater hoses on the Rover V8 bypassed, just with a U-shaped hose at the back of the manifold. I found out that you can't just block them - or put a tap in as you've done. I'll be pulling out the old heater core and not replacing it as there's about eight weeks of early mornings when you might miss it up here, and that's all!

[Homestar]

I'll be pulling out the old heater core and not replacing it as there's about eight weeks of early mornings when you might miss it up here, and that's all!

Compared to the eight weeks a year you DON'T need it down here...:D

[FIXR7]

I'll check out that dynamat extreme stuff.
If you use the tap like I have it will work because it bypasses the coolant back to the pump unlike a single tap in one line. Now I've got to seen where I can switch the vac motor from, in the heater control.

[Davo]

Okay, I get it. You don't stop the coolant flow, just bypass it to where it would go anyhow. I eventually worked out with the Rover that it comes out of the back of the manifold, goes through the heater, and then through the rusty pipe bolted under the manifold to the water pump. Very entertaining design.

[FIXR7]

This was the original heater pipe setup on my 3.9....

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/09/1013.jpg

[FIXR7]

Got some more done this weekend but nothin much during the week due to being rather unwell. So no fire up unfortunately.
Here's the mods I did to the pwr steer oil return feed. Normally it's a moulded in barb sticking out the back so I cut it off and sealed with a nut and bolt and put the new brass barb in the side.
This wasn't strictly necessary but it's how I preferred it to be.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/09/775.jpg

Here I'm making stainless O2 bosses because the damn speed shop lied and sold me steel ones!? ****wits!

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/09/776.jpg

Here's how the covers look after milling the extra lettering off and painting green. Couldn't actually find any landrover green engine enamel so I bought ordinary Dulux enamel in spray can(probably find there's little difference if any between engine enamel and enamel). Masked off the rectangle, hit it with etch primer then the green then clear engine enamel. I used brake cleaner on a cloth to wipe the paint off the logo.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/09/777.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/09/778.jpg

The pressure sensor for the new autometer oil pressure gauge. There happened to be a hole already tapped with the correct thread size for it. What a bargain!

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/09/779.jpg

Front dress all sorted...
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/09/780.jpg

[FIXR7]

And action.....

Rangie :: startup.mp4 video by XR9UTE - Photobucket@@AMEPARAM@@http://vid9.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vid9.photobucket.com/albums/a73/XR9UTE/Rangie/startup.mp4@@AMEPARAM@@vid9@@AMEPARAM@@9@@AMEPARAM @@a73/XR9UTE/Rangie/startup@@AMEPARAM@@mp4

Now to do everything else.:rolleyes:

[mrapocalypse]

Standing Ovation. Well done. Running Sweet!

[FIXR7]

Standing Ovation. Well done. Running Sweet!
Thanks man, I like how it just fired straight up. Open headers are good to **** the neighbours off for awhile too:D Still got a ****load to do but hopefully I'll have enough done to have it driving by the end of the month.

[FIXR7]

Here's some stuff I did before the fire up.
Harness done, added trans temp gauge and oil pressure gauge and Trans/Optishift wiring to it also....

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/10/1258.jpg

Vacuum Tee I had to shorten to clear the rocker cover...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/10/1259.jpg

the result..

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/10/1260.jpg

Hooked up BOB to check out the harness and Optishift...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/10/1261.jpg

And after I started it I got this fitting from Enzed to adapt the power steer hose to -6AN fittings...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/10/1262.jpg

like this...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/10/1263.jpg

This is for fitting the trans temp sender in line, -6 with 1/8" NPT...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/10/1264.jpg

As you can see it was not deep enough hence the adapter...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/10/1265.jpg

Which had too small a hole in it so I had to drill it out!?..

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/10/1266.jpg

Fixed..

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/10/1267.jpg

Stripped the Alternator wiring outta the DF and thought why not use the fuse block too. I simply unhooked the wiring I'm not using for the moment. I'll just put it back it when and if I use it later...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/10/1268.jpg

Made some little stainless brackets and mounted here behind the header tank. Btw the alternator works perfectly, no need to change the wattage of the stock bulb in the dash..

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/10/1269.jpg

Tracked the oil light,temp gauge and tacho wiring back to the cluster and found the best place to get at it here...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/10/1270.jpg

Put a 3 pin econoseal on there and used the wire I stripped out of the engine bay side to keep the same wire colours..

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/10/1271.jpg

Some more goodies to go on. The furry inspector loves to go bush bashin btw:D
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/10/1272.jpg

[FIXR7]

Put bonnet back on today with some surprising results.
Turns out I don't need to cut the bonnet for clearance afterall.
The rear bracing of the bonnet is where I thought I had to modify. Not so...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/10/780.jpg

Here's the bonnet brace that comes into contact with the EGR spacer.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/10/781.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/10/782.jpg

Here's the clearance to edge of the bonnet brace(not the centre of it).

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/10/783.jpg


So, seeing as I don't have EGR I'll just modify the EGR spacer.
Welded the EGR port shut and the cooling hole.
Before and after..

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/10/784.jpg

That's better...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/10/785.jpg

Hasn't looked like this for awhile.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/10/786.jpg

[banarcus]

Done like a true professional, well done mate!

[LRCounty]

Hi Pete,

Fantastic project here, and top shelf execution.
It's great that you will be able to enjoy it soon.

After spending a considerable amount of time rebuilding my 3.9 twice in a row (long story...not my fault :mad: ) and installing a Megasquirt ECU, I've recently travelled the Holland track, and also just got back from a week of driving and fishing (well mainly watching others while I drank beer) around Peaceful Bay.

There's a great deal of satisfaction in enjoying your hard work after its done. All the best with the list of things left to do. I would love to have a gander once complete!

Cheers
Andre

[FIXR7]

Thanks Andre,

Yeah I can't wait to go and check out all these places.
I'm just trying to sort out the fuel pump at the mo because it's got a lean miss. I think I inadvertantly killed the pump when I bridged out the fuel pump relay to get pressure in the rail. Of couse I didn't look at the dash while doing this which showed I had no fuel so ran the pump dry. Got a new pump yesterday and of course it's the wrong one!?
Hopefully I'll get that sorted tonight and then I'll drive it(with open headers) to my mates place this weekend and build the exhaust. Btw it's bloody hard to get 2 1/4" 304 mandrel bends in Perth. Ended up getting them from Manta and they ripped me off!
You're certainly welcome to have a look whenever you want.

Cheers,
Pete.

[Nick S]

G'day Pete
I just used a Bosch pump out of a VL Commadore when i put a bigger tank in mine. Its mounted externally just before the big fuel filter in the rear. Like others have said this is a great build, been enjoing watching it come together.
Cheers
Nick

[FIXR7]

Thanks Nick,

I'd rather not have an external pump for noise and durability reasons.
Anyway it turns out I can use this pump assembly which is for a later version so it has a 4 pin econoseal type connector moulded in rather than the 3pin flying lead. It's supposed to come with a little extension harness but didn't, so I'll chop the plug off and fit the Econoseal.
I've already measured the sender and it does the same 270-20 ohm sweep and is mechanically the same. I'm happy with the $150 price tag for the whole thing too.
Glad you like the project,

Cheers,
Pete.

[FIXR7]

Well I'd have some more photies for ya but photobucket just continuously "thinks" about opening up.
Anyway got it running and driving yesterday. The pump fixed the lean miss nicely but because I forgot that I'd mucked around with the idle it meant I mucked up the throttle learn for the trans which intially only changed gears when I backed right off. A quick reset was all that was required to have it shifting properly. At this point I'm running the stock shifter in a reverse pattern just temporarily while see about adapting the BF 6spd shifter.
Drove up to the servo to fill up and deafened everyone there:) Then drove to my mates place with the hoist. Got the exhaust built back to the x-pipe today and I was knackered. Should be able to finish back to the muffler tomorrow night so I'll be able to drive it without scaring people:D.

[banarcus]

Just a quick question for you Pete, what sort of VSS signal does the EECIV need? My stock Disco ECU needs a 8000 pulses per mile PWM signal from the ABS ECU and was wondering if EECIV would use something similar to this?

I'll be using the stock ZF auto and using the stock Disco ECU and TCM to control everything but the engine.

[FIXR7]

Easiest way to answer that is with a link...
Recalibrator & Speedcal Calculator (http://www.accutach.com/Pages/RecalibratorAndSpeedcalCalculator.aspx)

[FIXR7]

Some photies...

The temporary exhaust
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/11/1392.jpg

The beginnings of the proper exhaust.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/11/1393.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/11/1394.jpg

Heat shield that I made out of a BTR one.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/11/1395.jpg

Some trimming for the airbox.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/11/1396.jpg

Some trimming of the air box.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/11/1397.jpg

and there it sits. still got to make mountings, fill in the base.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/11/1398.jpg

The new pump assembly.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/11/1399.jpg

4 pin econoseal. you have to trim the barbs on the pump connector body because they are not exactly the same.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/11/1400.jpg

It lives.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/11/1401.jpg

[MacMan]

Love your work!

[LRCounty]

Very very nice.

Celebration beer time :)

[mrapocalypse]

Well done. Great Thread and project.... What's it go like????

[Homestar]

What's it go like????

X2. Must go like the clappers now! Great job, fantastic engineering. Wish I had a tenth of your talent...:)

Cheers - Gav

[FIXR7]

Thanks Lads,

I got some more exhaust done today but I ran out of bends....


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/11/1222.jpg

So I just ran it with the first muffler. Sounds good and beefy, like a tow truck and it goes good too. Took a turbo Audi by surprise on the way home and surprised myself when it chirped all four tyres in 2nd gear!? I think it scared the guy because he backed right off after that. Better not do that too much or I'll be buying axles without having gone off road yet:D Got home and discovered the transfer has sprung a leak. I think it maybe a dodgy thread in the bottom bolt hole of the case that holds the adapter plate on which, of course, goes into oil.
I already fixed an oil leak in the pwr steer pump today..the O-rings in the pressure fitting were hard as rock.
Otherwise I'm happy with how it goes. I still haven't actually tuned it either, the EEC still thinks it's a 302 and I'm running the stock 55mm MAF. I've only burned a chip to switch off smartlock at this stage.
There are no vibrations and it still handles good although I have fitted the Steins of Bil which of course would help.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/11/1223.jpg

Someone mentioned to me something about how to tell what spline axles you have by the shape of the wheel hub? Do these pics tell a story?

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/11/685.jpg

The front hub.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/11/684.jpg

Still got to sort the transfer shifter/s. So I'm still running the stock auto shifter with a reverse pattern...it's a good thing the Optishift shows what gear it's in and whether the converter is locked or not.
Then there's Air conditioning plumbing to be done and I haven't got a power steer cooler yet either. Was going to use a trans cooler off the LTD but it might actually make it run too cold.
Here's how the bay looks now and I reckon it looks like it's meant to be there.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/11/1224.jpg

[banarcus]

You've done a great job Pete. Doesn't matter what engine you stick into what car, you always prove the naysayers wrong time and time again. Well done mate.

[FIXR7]

Found the leak, silly me had left a stud out of the transfer box:rolleyes:
I remember thinking it was dowel hole...obviously not!

[FIXR7]

Sure am glad I put nutserts in here.. plenty of room for getting at stuff on top of the trans like the stud I missed.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/11/1156.jpg

I used M5 stainless button head screws.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/11/1157.jpg

[FIXR7]

Ok I've been running it to work for a little bit now as is, ie; no tuning and open loop and no trans tuning. So far it's been about as bad on fuel as the 3.9 was but of course I've been getting up it more too:D
Just today I fitted the O2's and straight away it's better. It changes into 4th a bit early too so there's some gains to be had there.
After cruising on the freeway I think it could benefit from a taller transfer box. I think mine is a 1.222 but I'm unsure at this point? It's got 28E on the case. Maybe a 1.192 would do the trick, a 1.003 is probably a bit much.
On the BF shifter front, I've been trying the BW transfer shifter but, It would still need to be moved forward to work so I'm going to make my own transfer shifter out of stainless.

[FIXR7]

Finally got some done on the BF shifter. AFter trying a couple of long cables I discovered I couldn't use them because I couldn't turn the shift lever upsidedown because it would hit the header. So I had to make this rather elaborate bracket/bellcrank assembly and use a short cable...
Good thing I had a spare gearbox, there's no way I'd have been able to do this on the car..

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/993.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/994.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/995.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/996.jpg

Tried it out last night with a temporary plate to mostly cover the hole. Will make a full length box that drops right down inside the floor opening so all the shifters will not be exposed to the elements. It works nice and smooth. Have to get used shifting it the right way again:D

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/38.jpg

[banarcus]

Impressive Pete.

[FIXR7]

Oh yeah, I found the source of the poor fuel economy too. The main harness to engine harness connectors had broken tabs so they were actually losing contact. The broken tabs are caused by people who can't read using a screwdriver to lift them when it clearly says PUSH!?! I haven't got any spares so I've used cable ties to hold em together.
I've driven it all weekend in this stinking 40 degree heat with air on full blast and it was much better on fuel.

[FIXR7]

Made the shifter box on weekend. The Mounting is now very solid and of course the noise reduction substantial plus no heat coming through the floor.
Made the top rail from 2mm stainless that I had to make in two halves and weld together....

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/90.jpg

Added the walls in 1mm stainless...looks like I'm making a sink:D

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/91.jpg

Shifter bolted in with factory tub on the bottom...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/92.jpg

Top view. Had to make the sides taper in otherwise I could not get it through the floor.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/93.jpg

[billy bob]

Top work

[g2landyman]

Wow what a great job, very interesting reading. Just for info C4 to series gearbox I think was made by Seaton's engineering, I think they may have been in Perth but dont if still going. I did similar (early 90's) 302w and C4 made fit my self wasnt lucky enough to have CNC so was fun, cut n shut C4 out shaft to landy g/box shalf welded with weldall rods (no probs ). Anyway how hard was the wiring harness to sort? I have a P76 V8 I want to fuel inject using Ford or Holden equip what you think?

[FIXR7]

Thanks g2landyman,
Yeah I did talk to Seatons about an adapter for small block onto the ZF before I discovered that the ZF couldn't take it anyway. Wiring is pretty easy for me, I've done lots of em.
You could certainly use 5.0 Mustang/Falcon gear with ease and, you could run it without any form of electronic tuning if you desired.

[g2landyman]

Thanks for that. I think I will have a crack at that with the ford puter, was worries about having to tune Gm one.
In you pictures of the harnesses was one ford one Land rover? I didnt quite get your meaning.
regards G2

[FIXR7]

Sorry Landyman, I don't get what you don't get? Do you mean on the first page?
I showed the stock harness, then the stock harness compared to the Ford harness, then the Ford harness with all the excess ABS wiring stripped out.

[FIXR7]

Righto, I found some dodgy wiring on the engine harness caused by some asswipe who fitted LPG to the previous engine it was on, so I just replaced it with an unmolested one. While I had the upper off I decided to go further and take the lower off and fit the GT40 intake while I was at it...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/1520.jpg (http://s9.photobucket.com/user/XR9UTE/media/Rangie/DSC05880_zps30209e78.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/1521.jpg (http://s9.photobucket.com/user/XR9UTE/media/Rangie/DSC05876_zpsce8560f4.jpg.html)

See the clearance problems with this taller intake...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/1522.jpg (http://s9.photobucket.com/user/XR9UTE/media/Rangie/DSC05879_zps278a4345.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/1523.jpg (http://s9.photobucket.com/user/XR9UTE/media/Rangie/DSC05878_zps1d783cf3.jpg.html)

Could almost be confused with a 3.9!?

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/1521.jpg (http://s9.photobucket.com/user/XR9UTE/media/Rangie/DSC05876_zpsce8560f4.jpg.html)

The PCV moves to the back of the intake so had to make this plug and weld it in from inside the rocker cover...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/1524.jpg (http://s9.photobucket.com/user/XR9UTE/media/Rangie/DSC05921_zps22e6de45.jpg.html)

I ground down this bolt boss and counterbored for a cap screw...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/1525.jpg (http://s9.photobucket.com/user/XR9UTE/media/Rangie/DSC05917_zpsb9371916.jpg.html)

Haven't got a mill so I kept drilling incrementally to 0.5mm from the head diameter then modded a drill bit for the final cut with flat base for the head of the bolt...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/1526.jpg (http://s9.photobucket.com/user/XR9UTE/media/Rangie/DSC05919_zps28fbead7.jpg.html)

Couldn't get a 5/16" x 135mm cap screw so I welded an 8mm stainless cap screw to a 5/16" bolt thread...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/1527.jpg (http://s9.photobucket.com/user/XR9UTE/media/Rangie/DSC05916_zps49726a35.jpg.html)

Gettin there. See the butchery of firewall lip behind the intake? This will be cleaned up later..

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/1528.jpg (http://s9.photobucket.com/user/XR9UTE/media/Rangie/DSC05913_zps39074e2e.jpg.html)

Had to cut this brace off the bonnet for clearance. I think I can move it side ways to clear the T-body and weld it back on...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/1529.jpg (http://s9.photobucket.com/user/XR9UTE/media/Rangie/DSC05914_zpsc1149754.jpg.html)

Had a hell of a time trying to find the Fuel reg vac line which uses a really big barb on the intake side.. I had to borrow this one with a view to replacing it. Thanks BPT!

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/1530.jpg (http://s9.photobucket.com/user/XR9UTE/media/Rangie/DSC05912_zps547825f5.jpg.html)

And this curved one(which is too short here) on the underside is also unobtainable!? This setup draws large amounts of oil into the intake.
I have now blocked it off and I'm using a catch can instead.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/1531.jpg (http://s9.photobucket.com/user/XR9UTE/media/Rangie/DSC05911_zpse99d5b85.jpg.html)

It's on there!...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/754.jpg (http://s9.photobucket.com/user/XR9UTE/media/Rangie/DSC05910_zps76cd09a5.jpg.html)

To drive it's noticeable better with far less throttle required to achieve the same speed. It's got that distinct whistle that these intakes tend to make too. I've got some ally tubing to make a new inlet tube too.
The TPS is rubbing on the bonnet so I'm going to have to educate it slightly:)

[FIXR7]

Time for an update.
I may have mentioned the Hughes built 4R70w trans was shifting a little too hard, chirping mostly the two front tyres but sometimes 3 or all four tyres!
I let Hughes know and they sent me a complete new valve body and a new 1-2 accumulator, EPC solenoid, gaskets an filter free of charge!?
I installed it tonight and it's much better. Shifts are quick and firm without being uncomfortable. I also have plenty of adjustment left with the optishift if I want to change how it shifts. There's also a dual map switch which I'll hook up via the ZFHP26 Falcon shifter when I move it to the manual shift posi.
As for the engine. I've got an F4 roller short block coming so I'm going to build that up with other bits I've got.

[Sitec]

That's very good service on Hughes's part. YouTube video of it in action needed me thinks! :)

[FIXR7]

I've got this one Sitec. This was my first attempt with a Gopro camera and I had it in its waterproof case hence the muffled sound, you may just be able to make out the chirp into 2nd and you can see I got off it because a car was coming...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W72zYVGeUUU

[FIXR7]

Well Peeps this thing has been goin great for nearly 2 years now. Still haven't sorted the transfer shifter so I've just ordered the D2 cable setup from Ashcroft. I'm also yankin the engine for one I'm building from an F4 roller lifter block with GT40Y alloy heads and 1.7 rockers on the stock truck cam. Was going to get a 408 short from the U.S. but they're so busy there's an 8 month wait!? Plus I'll need much stronger diffs and axles with one of those!
I've just swapped the old 3.9 MAF for complete front and rear axles assemblies from a 96 disco to make it a little stronger than the 10 spline jobs. Pretty good deal eh?

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/07/293.jpg (http://s9.photobucket.com/user/XR9UTE/media/Rangie/IMG_0846_zpsd540541e.jpg.html)

[FIXR7]

Ok I bought the CDL shifter assembly from Ashcroft but it turns out I can't use the shifter part afterall.
So here's a roughy of my dual shifter idea...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/09/1462.jpg (http://s9.photobucket.com/user/XR9UTE/media/Rangie/IMG_1683_zps223a6d42.jpg.html)

Machining the stainless shaft...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/09/1463.jpg (http://s9.photobucket.com/user/XR9UTE/media/Rangie/IMG_1681_zps4fcd0435.jpg.html)

Finished shaft with dual ball races per shifter...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/09/1464.jpg (http://s9.photobucket.com/user/XR9UTE/media/Rangie/IMG_1684_zpsdbb8a6c6.jpg.html)

It's going to sit about here. I ran out of material to keep going so, more soon...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/09/1465.jpg (http://s9.photobucket.com/user/XR9UTE/media/Rangie/IMG_1682_zpse79df495.jpg.html)

[FIXR7]

Righto update time;
Finally put together the engine. It's a std bore low k '97 F-series 5.8 hyd roller block. We checked it out and nothing needed doing. So I reassembled it using new bearings, Double roller timing set, and Mellings std volume pump. I re-used the near new Balancer and flexplate off the old engine. All 5.8's are 28oz imbalance.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/12/14.jpg (http://s9.photobucket.com/user/XR9UTE/media/Rangie/IMG_1962_zpsc012d16d.jpg.html)

Here's the block engineering number for those trying to find one...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/12/15.jpg (http://s9.photobucket.com/user/XR9UTE/media/Rangie/IMG_1963_zps5ff55e1d.jpg.html)

The heads are stock Ford GT40 Y302 aluminium. Not as good as the X302 head but still a good head with excellent port velocity in the low to mid lift range. They come with 1.94"/1.6" stainless valves and good quality double springs,retainers and locks. Plus they only cost $1300 complete for a pair from Ford racing:)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/12/16.jpg (http://s9.photobucket.com/user/XR9UTE/media/Rangie/IMG_1909_zpsd080b128.jpg.html)


Beware though. They don't come with the thermactor plugs but you can get them from the likes of Pioneer for about $8. Because they are a thread within a thread as it were, with what looks like screwdriver tangs they aren't easy to put in....

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/12/17.jpg (http://s9.photobucket.com/user/XR9UTE/media/Rangie/IMG_1980_zps193eb005.jpg.html)

So I made this little tool out of a cap screw...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/12/18.jpg (http://s9.photobucket.com/user/XR9UTE/media/Rangie/IMG_1984_zpsff49eee4.jpg.html)

Now it goes in easy...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/12/19.jpg (http://s9.photobucket.com/user/XR9UTE/media/Rangie/IMG_1986_zps4821bf99.jpg.html)

I used custom length Trend pushrods, Crane 1.7 roller rockers for a little more lift and Felpro 1250-S2 intake gaskets which have a steel sandwich plate inside and are re-useable and stock Ford roller lifters.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/12/20.jpg (http://s9.photobucket.com/user/XR9UTE/media/Rangie/IMG_1940_zps9010da92.jpg.html)

kuytu

[FIXR7]

These re-inforcing rails work great and a one piece steel sandwich silicone gasket..

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/12/11.jpg (http://s9.photobucket.com/user/XR9UTE/media/Rangie/IMG_1969_zps8c0f1fc8.jpg.html)

Flexplate on...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/12/12.jpg (http://s9.photobucket.com/user/XR9UTE/media/Rangie/IMG_1990_zps8930eaae.jpg.html)

Ready to go in...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/12/13.jpg (http://s9.photobucket.com/user/XR9UTE/media/Rangie/IMG_1991_zpse32ccd1e.jpg.html)

[FIXR7]

It's been running well now for a few months. It's got torque in spades but could actually do with a bigger than stock cam. At some stage I'll probably go with a Comp XR264-HR14 cam I've used before in a coupla Falcons with the same engine spec.
Oh and I still haven't actually tuned it...still running on a stock EB GT 5.0L calibration.:D

[Homestar]

As always - great work. :)

Would love to have even some of your talent.

[FIXR7]

Cheers Bacicat,

I picked up another one identical to this for spares but I'm tempted to do this one as well:) I know, I'm terrible Muriel:)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/01/983.jpg (http://s9.photobucket.com/user/XR9UTE/media/Rangie/IMG_2235_zps266901a8.jpg.html)

[reclaimer]

I've read your build thread more than once, it's very impressive.
I recently picked up a 95 discovery to do a ford engine/transmission swap on myself and have a couple of questions if I may.

You shortened the ZF adapter 45mm and then moved the transfer case back another 45mm. I want to leave my transfer case in it's stock location. Was there room/material to have made the adapter shaft 45mm shorter? Possibly trim 45mm off the transmission main shaft if needed?

I couldn't see clearly from the pictures, but where did the oil pan end up in regards to the axle housing? In one picture, it kind of looked as if the small front sump was inline with or on top of the axle housing. In another picture, it looked like the axle housing lined up with the area between the sumps, or maybe near the front of that area between the sumps.

Thanks

[reclaimer]

Never mind about the oil pan, I realized it was just a trick of light and picture angle that made me think you had switched out the truck pan for a dual sump pan in post #97. I saw it was still the truck pan in some of the later posts.

Still curious about whether or not the adapter shaft could have been shorter. I won't have clearance issues, using a manual transmission, M5od R2.

Thanks