Grinding/Graunching noise

[alexturner]

Hey guys,

I've noticed for the second time now that when I drive up the F3 (for some reason) - when cruising at 100kph~ and I release my foot from the accelerator there is a rather worrying noise that appears to be coming from the front left wheel.

I pulled over and stopped at the Ouirmbah rest stop to visually inspect the front left wheel. I stopped for a good 10 minutes and had a good look around (in the rain mind you) - Nothing out of the ordinary - suspension looked fine, and the bushings were all in tact.

When I left the rest stop I noticed that the noise had ceased and I thought all was well until it started again about 20 minutes later. This noise only seems to happen on the F3 - any idea as to what it could be - could my CV or flange be on it's way out?

Alex

[steveG]

Not sure about CV's as I've never had a stuffed one, but worn flanges just show up as a clunk in my experience.

Is it happening on overrun or just when you lift the power off lightly?

Edit: Its not a road surface issue is it causing some sort of vibration? Like when they use those asphalt gobbling machines to strip the road before resurfacing?

Steve

[Drover]

This noise sounds similiar to the noise my PUMA is making now.

It is at the stealers at the moment being looked at.

This noise appears about 100-110km/h on the "float" (that slight amount of throttle on/off needed to mainatin 100-110k's)

I think it sounds like the transfer case, but time (and the stealer) will tell...

[Reads90]

Have you checked your uj's on the props. They can do this when they are dry of grease and about to go


Sent from my iPhone

[alexturner]

Have you checked your uj's on the props. They can do this when they are dry of grease and about to go


Sent from my iPhone

I've bought a new set i've had sitting in my garage. I'll take it to the mechanic when I get back :/

[alexturner]

Drover - your PUMA is ALWAYS at the dealer!

[Naks]

I had a coffee-grinder type of noise on my previous 110 DC - eventually was diagnosed to the acute angle of the front propshaft due to OME lift. Cured it by replacing with a double-cardon propshaft from a D2.

could be related?

[Drover]

Drover - your PUMA is ALWAYS at the dealer!


Tell me about it......while ever it is under warranty, I will just keep taking it back......and back......and back - until they get it right !!!

As far as the noise is concerned the stealer has just rang to advise that it is "Spigot Bearing" in the clutch and will be ready for collection tomorrow....Woo Hoo.

[Snake2093]

Hi there guys,
My 110 does that as well. It does only happen when i left my foot of the throttle and like coast. It mainly happens when in 4th or 5th. Will have MR auto check it out soon. The noise seems to come from the trans case. I am starting wonder if it was from the 50mm lift.

[Drover]

Hey Snake,

I thought it was from the transfer case and this is what I told the stealer.

They came back with the spigot bearing ???

I am picking it up this morning, so I will know by the time I get home if they have fixed it.

I have a 50mm lift as well.

Cheers

[Drover]

Just got home from picking up the PUMA,

Noise and vibration all gone - must have been the spigot bearing after all.

Cheers

[alexturner]

Just got home from picking up the PUMA,

Noise and vibration all gone - must have been the spigot bearing after all.

Cheers

Amazing - I'm just going to change my prop shaft and spigot for ****s and gigs anyways. What's involved in changing a spigot bearing?

Alex

[Blknight.aus]

removing the engine or the gearbox to remove the clutch then changing the bearing thats inthe crank that supports the nose of the gearbox input shaft.

[Deefa]

My Defender has a similar problem that appeared after a 2 inch lift. I have tried everything I can think of to fix it and its driving me crazy. The vibration only happens going down a hill at a certain rev range. So it will vibrate every time I go down a hill.

What I have tried.

Castor correction terra firma front arms.
Cranked rear arms
Tried running front prop in phase with unis in line.
D2 carden joint front prop shaft. This I thought would do it, No difference.
Changed rear prop shaft for a known good one, no difference.
Tried various heights of rear end as I have poly airbags in the rear coils.
Engine mounts look good. Rear handbrake output shaft nut is tight.

The spigot bearing is noisy when cold, this is pretty common, but I would not have thought it could cause a vibration like this. Especially when it sounds like its coming from the back of the car.

Any thoughts?

[alexturner]

My Defender has a similar problem that appeared after a 2 inch lift. I have tried everything I can think of to fix it and its driving me crazy. The vibration only happens going down a hill at a certain rev range. So it will vibrate every time I go down a hill.

What I have tried.

Castor correction terra firma front arms.
Cranked rear arms
Tried running front prop in phase with unis in line.
D2 carden joint front prop shaft. This I thought would do it, No difference.
Changed rear prop shaft for a known good one, no difference.
Tried various heights of rear end as I have poly airbags in the rear coils.
Engine mounts look good. Rear handbrake output shaft nut is tight.

The spigot bearing is noisy when cold, this is pretty common, but I would not have thought it could cause a vibration like this. Especially when it sounds like its coming from the back of the car.

Any thoughts?

This is exactly what I've got. I'm at a loss.

Alex

[twisted leader]

I had a funny intermittent vibration/sound coming from the left front of my Defender. After a lot of "expecting the worst", I worked out that the air con overflow tube was rubbing on the tyre. Easy fix, just cut it shorter so it can't rub.
Also on my car when you throttle off to change up a gear there is a brief growl/vibration from the front. After another long process of elimination I worked out that this is the bushes on the bonnet. Another easy fix.
Kind regards... David

[Yorkshire_Jon]

A D2 cardon prop is not designed with an extra wide yoke at the diff end, though it will prevent yoke lock-up at the T/Box end on lifted vehicles (especially Puma's).

Using castor corrected arms with a standard prop will only worsen the effect on the UJ at the Diff end.

You need to replace the prop with one that has either 2 x extra wide angle yokes or 1 x extra wide angle yoke and a DC at the other end.

Finally, just because the yokes dont physically lock up / clash under articulation doesnt mean the UJs are'nt being over-stressed. They have a limited amount of rotation where they are happy and a bit more where they will operate but under stress. Its this under stress area where the vibrations are produced.

Jon

[Yorkshire_Jon]

...

[Deefa]

Thanks Jon,

I see on other threads that owners of d1s and d2s are putting props made in the USA by a guy (whose name has escaped me) to deal with large lifts, and stronger than the LR original carden joint prop, these, i think have high angle unis as well as a stronger carden joint. Is this what you mean/ or can you buy higher angle unis to suit the Land Rover d2 carden joint prop? A few of my fellow club members have lifted their Defenders 2 inches without any modification, and no vibrations.

I realize that the castor correction arms would not help but this was more for articulation and to correct wandering steering after a lift.

I think the answer is just to turn the stereo up!

[Yorkshire_Jon]

Increased strength isnt what you actually need, although stronger parts never go amiss!

Your new prop needs to have wide angle yokes and as a result of that, physically bigger UJs. The yokes are at each end of the prop, where you install the UJs.

The manufacturer is important to the extent that you need to be able to get replacement UJs and other parts as/when/if necessary.

Depending on the difference in height between the transfer flange and diff flange and and difference in angle between the two will depend on whether you actually need a double cardon joint in the prop.

You can always use a DC prop, but may not need it if you use wide angle yokes at each end. The benefit of not having a DC joint is long term reliability - they are a PITA to replace in the bush, whereas a standard UJ is easy.

I mentioned the Bailey Morris (UK) brand of props because I know them to be good, reliable and they use readily available Hardy Spicer UJ's and Cardon components. I have used 2 other brands in the past on customers cars and parts are almost impossible to source (including UJs).

Jon



Thanks Jon,

I see on other threads that owners of d1s and d2s are putting props made in the USA by a guy (whose name has escaped me) to deal with large lifts, and stronger than the LR original carden joint prop, these, i think have high angle unis as well as a stronger carden joint. Is this what you mean/ or can you buy higher angle unis to suit the Land Rover d2 carden joint prop? A few of my fellow club members have lifted their Defenders 2 inches without any modification, and no vibrations.

I realize that the castor correction arms would not help but this was more for articulation and to correct wandering steering after a lift.

I think the answer is just to turn the stereo up!