View Full Version : Driving lights on roof rack
Allan
19th August 2011, 12:39 AM
I've just fitted a full length roof rack to the 110 so I can carry the Oz tent without putting it in the boat. Now I want to fit Driving lights to the rack and a work light to the rear but how to get the power to them without drilling holes in my roof. Any ideas/knowlage re doing this would help heaps as the boss goes nuts when the drill comes out.
Allan
CraigE
19th August 2011, 04:17 AM
Allan,
at some point you are going to have to drill, so the wiring can enter the cab. Personally I would prefer it not to be on top of the roof. For the rear work light I would enter in the back flat part of the roof near the washer nozzle, easy to get to. Good grommets will do the trick. As for the front lights you could follow the snorkel down and enter in the front panel or into the engine bay.
Drover
19th August 2011, 05:48 AM
Hi Allan,
I would make up a neat wiring loom, protected with split tube, to service all lights on the roof rack and fit it snuggle.(you might be able to go internal through the rack)
Then as suggest by Craig go internal down through the snorkel, sealing as you go of course, to the engine bay. Use a water proof connector between the rack and snorkel.
From the engine bay, follow the factory wiring loom (on the near side of the motor) to underneath and into the battery box.
No drilling - nice and neat ;)
Cheers
Jock The Rock
19th August 2011, 06:17 AM
The lights I had on mine were run down the snorkel and out the pipe at the bottom
5mm dual core all covered with a long bit of shrink fit will fit just snuggly inside the gutter
I'll try and find a photo tonight
Allan
19th August 2011, 09:05 AM
Thanks all.
Allan
cewilson
19th August 2011, 07:58 PM
Personally - just drill the holes. One at the rear and one at the front. Use the marine grommets - the one;s you can get from BCF or any marine store. The are a three piece design and more waterproof than any Defender ever was :)
Cheers
Chris
Tombie
19th August 2011, 10:49 PM
I'm with Chris....
Start drilling!
Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner
Lorryman100
20th August 2011, 03:15 AM
Entreq in Germany make a low profile plug especially for roof rack lights, very handy as you can take the rack off complete with lights if needed. Unfortunately you will still need to drill holes.
Schnellkupplung flach (http://www.entreq.de/products/electrical-equipment/zusatzbeleuchtung/schnellkupplung-flach.html)
muddys1
20th August 2011, 06:11 PM
which ever way its done, i would certainly use good quality plugs, will just make life so much easier down the track if you need to unhook for any reason.
by the way, what kind of lights will you be useing, H.I.D, L.E.D, led strip ????
cheers
muddy
Allan
21st August 2011, 01:15 PM
which ever way its done, i would certainly use good quality plugs, will just make life so much easier down the track if you need to unhook for any reason.
by the way, what kind of lights will you be useing, H.I.D, L.E.D, led strip ????
cheers
muddy
HID's I think at this stage
Allan
scott oz
21st August 2011, 10:41 PM
I’ve got a light bar AKA roof rack which I’ll mount some Hella 4000’s.
I’ll not have the light bar on all the time and my intention is to make a “power point” in the engine bay and run a Hella connection from this point to the Hella’s on the light bar. My intention is to be able to “plug” the light bar in as needed.
I note you are thinking of going to HID’s. I’m currently running HID’s as standard high / low.
I’ve run Hella 2000’s from the roof of a disco. They light-up the world. I’ve now got some Hella 4000’s and to be honest I’m not sure that I will do an HID conversion.
Given the performance of HID’s in non HID (standard lens’s) I believe the standard lens/light gives overall better light performance than HID “upgrades” and would be more so in high performance driving lights.
Finally when I had an ARB roof rack I drilled a entery/exit hole and then put in a small metal washer and tied a bit of fishing line to it. I then dragged the washer to a rear hole and pulled the line through to a “work light”. Then I pulled the +- wires through.
I don’t know why you’d drill onto a snorkel to run wires internally and then exit from the snorkel in the engine bay. Would have though it made more sense to use wiring loom (split) and follow the snorkel down to the bonnet then into the engine bay to either the battery or power point (refer above). Not as though the bonnet /body is a prescison fit?
Would seem to me to be just as neat, less work and less interference with the air intake.
Just my thoughts.
Allan
21st August 2011, 11:40 PM
I’ve got a light bar AKA roof rack which I’ll mount some Hella 4000’s.
I’ll not have the light bar on all the time and my intention is to make a “power point” in the engine bay and run a Hella connection from this point to the Hella’s on the light bar. My intention is to be able to “plug” the light bar in as needed.
I note you are thinking of going to HID’s. I’m currently running HID’s as standard high / low.
I’ve run Hella 2000’s from the roof of a disco. They light-up the world. I’ve now got some Hella 4000’s and to be honest I’m not sure that I will do an HID conversion.
Given the performance of HID’s in non HID (standard lens’s) I believe the standard lens/light gives overall better light performance than HID “upgrades” and would be more so in high performance driving lights.
Finally when I had an ARB roof rack I drilled a entery/exit hole and then put in a small metal washer and tied a bit of fishing line to it. I then dragged the washer to a rear hole and pulled the line through to a “work light”. Then I pulled the +- wires through.
I don’t know why you’d drill onto a snorkel to run wires internally and then exit from the snorkel in the engine bay. Would have though it made more sense to use wiring loom (split) and follow the snorkel down to the bonnet then into the engine bay to either the battery or power point (refer above). Not as though the bonnet /body is a prescison fit?
Would seem to me to be just as neat, less work and less interference with the air intake.
Just my thoughts.
Some very good points. I'm thinking of going from under the drivers seat through each side door piller and thtougt the foam/rubber between the turret and side pannel thus no hole in the body panals
Allan
Hymie
22nd August 2011, 02:54 PM
I thought that 1.2 Meters was the maximum height you could mount lights at.
That would make mounting them on a roofrack illegal wouldn't it?
n plus one
22nd August 2011, 06:33 PM
I thought that 1.2 Meters was the maximum height you could mount lights at.
That would make mounting them on a roofrack illegal wouldn't it?
No, ADRs have changed (you thank Chrysler for that).
You can buy a number of new cars with roof lights i.e. Jeep Cherokee, Nissan X Trail, etc.
scott oz
22nd August 2011, 08:40 PM
The important thing with roof mounted lights is how they are wired to turn off and on. I don't believe they can be worked off the high beam.
In NSW the above is the case. Ithink you cal lthem spot or work lights
VladTepes
23rd August 2011, 10:33 AM
Personally - just drill the holes. One at the rear and one at the front. Use the marine grommets - the one;s you can get from BCF or any marine store. The are a three piece design and more waterproof than any Defender ever was :)
Cheers
Chris
Someone (a previous owner) drilled a hole in the roof of my Defender for a CB aerial - now long defunct.
Would the marine grommets of which you speak, actually be watertight without a cable running through them? (Cable for lights would come later).
Also how much room around the hole is needed to "set" the gommet becuase the hole has been drilled in teh middle of the xisting roof rib, where there is currently a largeish circular apeture. (Hard to describe withouta photo, which I shall take later).
Allan
23rd August 2011, 12:10 PM
The important thing with roof mounted lights is how they are wired to turn off and on. I don't believe they can be worked off the high beam.
In NSW the above is the case. Ithink you cal lthem spot or work
lights
I'm not sure regarding this. Anybody in W.A. know the legality of wiring via the high beam?
Allan
Tombie
23rd August 2011, 12:44 PM
I'm not sure regarding this. Anybody in W.A. know the legality of wiring via the high beam?
Allan
Last time I checked...
Must be wired to only work when main lights on...
Must also have independent switch to turn them off.
You can wire them 2 way switched... High Beam activated etc...
Personally, I like them wired to headlights - helps you not forget :) And if bumped during the day dont run your batteries flat.
isuzurover
23rd August 2011, 12:50 PM
I'm not sure regarding this. Anybody in W.A. know the legality of wiring via the high beam?
Allan
The law is that spot/driving lights must automatically extinguish when you dip the headlights. You must also be able to have high beam without the driving/spot lights being on - so what Tombie said is correct.
I recently (tried to) get a definitive answer from DOT WA on whether it is legal to mount spotlights on the roof of a bonneted vehicle in WA. I couldn't get a conclusive answer.
Allan
23rd August 2011, 02:28 PM
The law is that spot/driving lights must automatically extinguish when you dip the headlights. You must also be able to have high beam without the driving/spot lights being on - so what Tombie said is correct.
I recently (tried to) get a definitive answer from DOT WA on whether it is legal to mount spotlights on the roof of a bonneted vehicle in WA. I couldn't get a conclusive answer.
Thanks for that, I will start the wireing task next week end if its not raining.
Allan
clubagreenie
23rd August 2011, 03:29 PM
Someone (a previous owner) drilled a hole in the roof of my Defender for a CB aerial - now long defunct.
Would the marine grommets of which you speak, actually be watertight without a cable running through them? (Cable for lights would come later).
Also how much room around the hole is needed to "set" the gommet becuase the hole has been drilled in teh middle of the xisting roof rib, where there is currently a largeish circular apeture. (Hard to describe withouta photo, which I shall take later).
The "grommet" in question is actually a compression type fitting called a gland seal. It will have a flange and flat seal on the insde with a male thread then another flat seal on the outside with a nut, these can have a smear of sealant (SIKA marine sealant, not silicone based). This holds the sleeve in place. Then you pass your unfinished wire through and slide the seal (which will be tapered) down into the (also tapered) end of the sleeve and then fit the outer nut. As it's done up it pushes the seal into the taper (which can have a smear of the same sealant) and seals against the sleeve and cable. Work very well, especially if you just start it and then with a syringe and needle squirt some sealant in between the cable and seal.
Here's a pic https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
and an exploded view, not a perfect example but you should get the idea.https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/08/395.jpg
Nut (in this case retains cable), body, seal outer body (male thread into main body through seal) and outer nut. The fingery parts on the outer body has the rubber seal inside which is compressed as the taper inside the outer nut squeezes the fingers in against the cable.
Hope this has helped.
VladTepes
24th August 2011, 09:45 AM
Ta.
So in the pic
http://www.biasboating.com.au/images/PRODUCT/medium/337.jpg
which end is inside and which outside the roof (vehicle) or doesn't it matter ?
spudboy
24th August 2011, 10:00 AM
JayCar Electronics sell these type of glands in about 10 different sizes......
mattyg
24th August 2011, 10:31 AM
Left side of picture inside vehicle.
JohnF
24th August 2011, 12:44 PM
I thought that 1.2 Meters was the maximum height you could mount lights at.
That would make mounting them on a roofrack illegal wouldn't it?
If they were illegal I doubt you could be fined if you had covers on them. then take covers off for off-road use.
I am not a lawyer so if you follow my advice and get fined, tough :D
scott oz
25th August 2011, 12:24 PM
My understanding is that "driving lights" can't be mounted higher or further apart than your vehicles head lights (main lights).
Roof mounted lights, I believe are called work lights (or something) and still can't be mounted further apart than your main lights and can't be wired to your driving light/ main beam switches.
You can call roof mounted lights what you wish it will be the wiring (activation / off) that will bring you unstuck.
Someone posted the ADR's on this forum some time ago.
kenleyfred
25th August 2011, 01:43 PM
Only my experience. I fitted a work light to the rear and another on the passenger side. My thoughts were as a work light and camp lighting.
The rear is great as additional reversing light, but otherwise they are far too bright. We hardly use them for camping they attract every insect in a 5 km radius and they all end up in the Defender cos the windows are always open. Also if you look towards the vehicle you become blinded.
I'm thinking of making some kind of diffuser to soften the light.
Still glad they're there though, there have been a few instances when they were very handy.
George130
27th August 2011, 02:50 PM
I ran mine down the window pillar attached to the outside of the snorkel. They then just went under the bonnet where I had a plug for when I want to remove them. That way I had no holes to try and seal.
BigBadBrad
9th November 2013, 06:04 PM
Have just fitted 4 9 inch hid lights to my roof rack. My job was made easier as I was replacing my roof lining, but I drilled two holes one for spotlights and one for work lamps as they are on seperate circuits/looms. Used staunless glands from jaycar and they seal 100% used a pressure washer to check lol. Very happy very neat job, uses less wiring approx 3 meters less so less voltage droo. Also ran wiring through roof rack with water proof emax plugs so the whole lot is removable easily.
Peter1954
23rd May 2015, 07:49 PM
I have a 110 defender (2015) with a Land Rover roof rack. I want to add additional LED reversing lights, & mount on roof rack (looking backwards) how does one get wires from inside the vehicle to the roof rack in a neat & tidy fashion ?
flagg
24th May 2015, 07:25 AM
ADR 13 and 46 cover headlights.. and can be found on Comlaw.
Vehicle Standard (Australian Design Rule 13/00 - Installation of Lighting and Light Signalling Devices on other than L-Group Vehicles) 2005 (http://www.comlaw.gov.au/Series/F2005L03991)
Vehicle Standard (Australian Design Rule 46/00 - Headlamps) 2006 (http://www.comlaw.gov.au/Series/F2006L02294)
If you are using HID lights, ECE 98 applies:
http://www.unece.org/fileadmin/DAM/trans/main/wp29/wp29regs/R098r3e.pdf
Jeff
24th May 2015, 08:06 AM
Isn't it amazing, a forum member asks about how to neatly wire some lights and every amateur cop is on here about legality.
Jeff
:rocket:
Tombie
24th May 2015, 08:45 AM
They quote the rules in this argument every time and then misinterpret them.
Roof mounted aren't illegal if installed correctly.
Now... Onto the question..
A clean and neat solution is a grommet through the rear panel.
A more elegant solution - military style coupling in same spot!
Toxic_Avenger
24th May 2015, 08:46 AM
Now I might have missed the point, but looking at ADR 13/00, section 7:
7. INDIVIDUAL REQUIREMENTS
The following individual requirements are supplementary to the requirements of Appendix A. Where the installation of a lamp is indicated as optional, this means that it is not mandatory to fit the lamp, but if fitted, the lamp(s) are required to comply.
7.3. ?DRIVING LAMPS?
7.3.1. Presence: Optional on motor vehicles. Prohibited on trailers.
7.3.2. Number:
7.3.2.1. Two or four.
7.3.2.2. To be used in conjunction with headlamps.
7.3.3. Arrangement:
No individual specifications
7.3.4. Position:
7.3.4.1. In width no individual specifications.
7.3.4.2. In height: no individual specifications.
7.3.4.3. In length: at the front of the vehicle and fitted in such a way that the light emitted does not cause discomfort to the driver either directly or indirectly through the rear-view mirrors and/or other reflecting surfaces of the vehicle.
7.3.5. Geometric visibility:
No individual specifications.
7.3.6. Orientation:
Towards the front.
7.3.7. Electrical connections:
The driving lamps must be able to be lighted only when the main-beam headlamps switch is in the ?lamps on? position.
7.3.8. Tell tale: No requirement.
7.3.9. Others:
The aggregate maximum intensity of the main-beam headlamps as specified in paragraph 6.1.9.1 of Appendix A can be exceeded with the fitment and illumination of driving lamps. Driving lamps do not have to comply with ADR 46/?.
The real questions is what is a 'driving lamp'? I can't find info on 'spot lights' or 'driving lights' or 'LED lights'
Reads90
24th May 2015, 02:06 PM
94331
On my disco I ran the wires down the inside of the snorkel ( the side that's bolted to the car , and into the engine bay
As for the legal eagles on the Internet
I was on the ferry to Morton and parked behind a Qld transport inspector car
I asked him about roof lights due to I knew everyone would have an option on here when a pic of my Disco came up.
He told me they are no problem but must be wired in and can't be used on the road and are for off road use. Must have a switch on the dash for them.
Ali
flagg
24th May 2015, 08:29 PM
Isn't it amazing, a forum member asks about how to neatly wire some lights and every amateur cop is on here about legality.
Jeff
:rocket:
They quote the rules in this argument every time and then misinterpret them.
Roof mounted aren't illegal if installed correctly.
Sorry if I offended anyone.. A couple of people had asked about legality and as the original question had been answered pretty well I didn't think linking to the actual regulations rather than speculation would be unhelpful.
I've posted things on this forum before that people have picked up as being potentially illegal - I modified it so that it as OK and I'm very thankful to them for saving me a lot of hassle and potentially a fine!
anyway, as you were :angel::)
Plutei
25th May 2015, 12:53 AM
Slightly off topic but just wanted to voice an idea I'd had. If you need to run power to several lights on the roof rack and want to have the ability to control them all individually (eg driving lights, camping lights, reversing lights) but don't want heaps of wires running up to the rack, I have been toying with the idea of hiding a 'control box' full of relays up under the roof rack and then running dual core cable for power and a smaller multicore cable for controlling the relays. Then, from the control box you run all cables for your lights.
Also, if there are spare wires in the multicore cable it's very easy to add stuff to the roof rack as you don't have to run wires through the car all over again; just take power from the control box and use another wire from the multiform to control the relay.
Honestly have no idea how beneficial this would be, just something that I have been considering. Should be able to reduce voltage drop though as you can run a thick cable for power which probably won't be powering more than two lights at any one time (but has the capability to power all), then switch to smaller wires once you're on the roof rack.
Please tell me what you think.
Tombie
25th May 2015, 08:57 AM
Sorry if I offended anyone.. A couple of people had asked about legality and as the original question had been answered pretty well I didn't think linking to the actual regulations rather than speculation would be unhelpful.
I've posted things on this forum before that people have picked up as being potentially illegal - I modified it so that it as OK and I'm very thankful to them for saving me a lot of hassle and potentially a fine!
anyway, as you were :angel::)
All good Mr Flagg... And You did it with all the right intent...
Put simply, it is the discretion of the officer that pulls you up whether or not the vehicle is "roadworthy"... Its then up to you to present the vehicle for inspection. This may or may not be right in anyones eyes, and has been abused in the past.. But there are sometimes a few rotten apples in any barrel..
The biggest thing about not ever being hassled is how you present yourself and your vehicle... A scrappy looking vehicle will always draw attention (Like an old Commodore :angel: )
I know every officer I've met / know has at some stage commented on the "attitude test" - how you react when pulled over can greatly set the tone and outcome of the forthcoming discussion :cool:
Legally - roof lights need a separate switch and need to operate only when the High Beam is active...
frantic
25th May 2015, 12:40 PM
I want to say thanks to everyone for the seal and location suggestions as this is something I'm thinking of doing in the future.
As to all the yes /no bush lawyers. It's legal as a certain manufacturer of heaps had a light bar as a factory option in their 96-2007ish model, which was similar in shape to the defender NAS roll bar with 4 spotlights mounted on top.;)
P.s most states are changing the laws because of the massive growth in LED bars.
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