View Full Version : D3 Tailgate manual release
gdub
20th August 2011, 03:38 PM
Having trouble releasing tailgate on 2007 D3..... tailgate is  in closed position.... carpeted inner panel is levered out and have found slot for screw driver in lock mmechanism using mirror and torch described in other posts. Tried to insert small screwdriver for manual release to no avail is there a trick to this part of procedure. Planning to carry out latch modification if I can get door open. 
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/09/1339.jpg
stig0000
20th August 2011, 03:43 PM
on the lhs you see a rectangle black box with a cable comming out of it looping up to the latch,, hit the cable out of the black box,, takes some force as its cliped in, once its poped out just simply pull the cable, and door opens
chimera
27th August 2011, 09:25 AM
I had the same issue and made a hook with some coathanger wire, used it to pull the cable out from the actuator and then it was easy to reach the cable and pull to open.
oldsalt
27th August 2011, 12:20 PM
Here's the inside of the tailgate..the little box you want is in the centre cut-out...
http://files.myopera.com/veedub5/albums/1286821/IMG_1915.JPG
and here's the little box you want to get your hands on ...
http://files.myopera.com/veedub5/albums/1286821/IMG_1916.JPG
and this is what's inside the little box in question...
http://files.myopera.com/veedub5/albums/1286821/0IMG_1926.JPG
hope this helps you ...
cheers
bk28082003
12th September 2011, 08:09 PM
definately take stig0000's advice.  I opened my tailgate with the screw driver in the latch hole and caused damage to the latch, causing it to stick.  Had to buy a new latch ($80).  
Just pop the cable out with an open spanner head and a tap with the hammer...
Peter
12th September 2011, 08:41 PM
Ignore this iPad bungle... can't work out how to delete a post :)
Peter
12th September 2011, 08:50 PM
Just saw your post and have had the same issue.
It would appear the cable stretches over time and once again the assembly is designed around a component replacement strategy.
First of all... If the latch doesn't open, try pressing the centre of the upper door about where the latch is and hold as you press the latch switch.  I found that if it didn't open I would have to lock the car and unlock it and try again. The actuator seems to get confused.
Next take it apart as you see in Oldsalt's post and take the outer cable out of the metal fixture and simply rest it on the outside of the housing. I fashioned a washer/grommet out of a tarp islet and placed it as a spacer so the cable didn't wear on the housing edge. The plastic box like cover will then be screwed back on and hold it in place.
Now if someone could source a little adjuster like you find on a bike's hand brake and which can be fitted around the cable without destroying it this might be a serviceable part and not a replace and toss component. 
So for now mine works a treat.
Hope this helps.
Cheers PK
Peter
20th October 2011, 11:39 PM
Alas... Dead actuator... Replaced and now working fine.
There needs to be a get out of jail cable for this little issue.  It would have been quite impossible if I had a load in the car when it finally died.
All good now.
Cheers PK
bbyer
21st October 2011, 01:35 PM
There needs to be a get out of jail cable for this little issue. It would have been quite impossible if I had a load in the car when it finally died. All good now. Cheers PK
 
The link below is to my version of a rear upper door manual release.
 
About the only weak spot re the design is how I clamped the manual release cable to the LR cable. While not pictured, I now have a better clamp - sort of a U shaped mini wire clamp from an electrical breaker. Also to open the upper rear hatch, you still have to be able to climb inside to reach the release - not easy if the rear area is full of stuff.
 
DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - Liftgate release mod (http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=4155)
robertj
22nd October 2011, 06:53 AM
Took it one step further and secured the new manual release cable directly to the lock cam. This way it does not matter where the original cable fails you have a direct fixing back onto the lock.
Link below(I hope) to a previous thread with plenty of info and a photo of my fix - hope this is of help
Cheers
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/101292-manual-tailgate-release-d3-2.html
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