IIA SWB wheel and tyre options?

[Warb]

My SWB IIA is running on the original 5" (231601) wheels. The tyres are all ruined (perished, split, bald etc.) so as I contemplate putting the vehicle back on the road I find new tyres are required, but not easy to get in a suitable size, meaning new wheels are probably needed. As the vehicle is used almost exclusively off-road, a wider tyre has some attractions.

So the question is, what is available and suitable? I have access to some 16x6.5" Wolf wheels (tubed), which would seem to fit from a width and offset viewpoint, but from what I've read they ideally need long studs. From what I can see, changing the hubs and brake drums to the SIII version that apparently uses the 16mm studs will allow fitment of the longer "extended" wheel studs, and as the original brake drums are old, rusty and worn this does not add too much to the cost as new drums are probably needed anyway! Can anybody confirm that SIII hubs and drums will fit the SIIA? And if the SIII hub uses the Defender (16mm?) studs?

Does anybody have any other suggestions? I would like a wheel of at least 6" width, to enable fitting of a 235/85 tyre (most manufacturers now specify 6-7" for 235 tyres). I do not mind running tubes, my old "everyday" Hilux ran split rims and tubes without problems for over 220,000km.

I am open to suggestions!

[JDNSW]

The simples solution is probably to get a set of 5.5" wheels from a lwb (Series 1 - Defender) and fit 7.50x16 tyres (still readily available). But I am pretty certain there are suitable 205 tyres that would be available, although ones designed for tubes may be a problem. My personal view is that for most purposes going wider than 7.5 simply makes the steering harder without any perceptible benefit - most of the benefit of larger tyres is the larger diameter, but you run into gearing problems going over this in diameter anyway.

Early Series 3 hubs are a direct replacement for the S/2/2a ones, but later ones use different wheel bearings (same as 90/110/Defender, I'm pretty certain) and you would need to replace the stub axles and bearings as well (but everything is interchangeable in matched sets).

I can confirm that S3 has the same 16mm studs as 90/110/Defender/RR Classic/Disco 1 - and so did very late S2a.

If you are replacing brake drums, you might want to consider fitting lwb brakes, at least front and m/c, although the swb brakes in good condition are adequate with the original engines.

Hope this helps,

John

[mick88]

"If you are replacing brake drums, you might want to consider fitting lwb brakes, at least front and m/c, although the swb brakes in good condition are adequate with the original engines".

John, do you need to replace the master cylinder if fitting LWB front brakes to SWB?

Cheers, Mick

[d@rk51d3]

Standard drums on the 88" seem to be more than adequate to me, provided they're maintained and in good condition.

[Timj]

Early Series 3 hubs are a direct replacement for the S/2/2a ones, but later ones use different wheel bearings (same as 90/110/Defender, I'm pretty certain) and you would need to replace the stub axles and bearings as well (but everything is interchangeable in matched sets).

John

Hi John,

Just wondering what the difference is with the bearings? It's just that I did a full floating axle conversion on my 80" S1 by putting S3 stub axles on there with the S1 hubs and it seems to work fine. I did replace the bearings but don't recall any question of which series it was when I got it all together and whatever they are they certainly fit in the S1 hubs.

TimJ.

[Warb]

The simples solution is probably to get a set of 5.5" wheels from a lwb (Series 1 - Defender) and fit 7.50x16 tyres (still readily available). But I am pretty certain there are suitable 205 tyres that would be available, although ones designed for tubes may be a problem. My personal view is that for most purposes going wider than 7.5 simply makes the steering harder without any perceptible benefit - most of the benefit of larger tyres is the larger diameter, but you run into gearing problems going over this in diameter anyway.

I tend to agree, except that in this case a major part of the SWB's duties are as a farm vehicle. A bigger footprint tyre seems to do less damage to the ground. I have noticed that the existing tyres on the SWB, which are 6.00's in an old "traditional" pattern, leave far deeper marks in soft ground than those on my Hilux, even though the Hilux is a far heavier vehicle. I imagine that a more modern all-terrain tyre, even at 7.5" wide, would reduce this problem but my thinking was that a 235 would reduce it further and probably at much the same price unless 7.50 tyres are massively cheaper than 235's!

The 16mm wheel studs would appear to be a splined "interference fit" type, which I suppose also raises the possibility of simply drilling out the existing hubs and drums (if they are still usable!) and fitting extended 16mm studs in the existing hub/drum combination. Its not my preferred option because I like to keep the original parts so any modification can be reversed later, but other than that...?

Unless, of course, I can find a cheap set of 5.5" wheels somewhere and go with 7.50's

[JDNSW]

Hi John,

Just wondering what the difference is with the bearings? It's just that I did a full floating axle conversion on my 80" S1 by putting S3 stub axles on there with the S1 hubs and it seems to work fine. I did replace the bearings but don't recall any question of which series it was when I got it all together and whatever they are they certainly fit in the S1 hubs.

TimJ.

Change was at June 1980 for the 88 and Sept for the 109 according to the parts book, so any S3 hub up to then uses the same wheel bearings and stubs as S1/2/2a. But of course, you need to check what you have or are getting - the whole axle may have been swapped for one from a different date!

John

[isuzurover]

IRC the series 3 studs are no longer than series I/II studs. You used to be able to get special wheel nuts for a IIA that were the same diameter as a SIII nut.

I have disco 1 steel rims (16x7) on my IIA. When I first fitted them I just bought a set of the special nuts S/H.

Later I swapped to Series 3 axles (stage 1 front, salisbury rear), so I got the larger hubs. However I just drilled out my brake drums to fit the new studs.

I run 285/75-16s (33") - I find them excellent offroad.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/08/131.jpg

[peterg1001]

my thinking was that a 235 would reduce it further and probably at much the same price unless 7.50 tyres are massively cheaper than 235's!

Unless, of course, I can find a cheap set of 5.5" wheels somewhere and go with 7.50's


If you want 7.50x16s, you could call Mick in Cooma 0414 484 120. He sells ex-army 7.50x16 at $100 each, plus $10 delivery, with 90% tread.

A set of Himilers he put on ebay was just passed in at an asking price of $299 plus shipping, auction 130566288014.

I'm running Olympic Steeltrek 7.50x16s on my SWB with original 5.0" wheels, without apparent problems, although I'm sure someone will pop up and tell me why I shouldn't.

I've got a set of 5.0 rims with 6.0 tyres down the back if that'll help you out, and a just legal Bridgestone Dueler H/T 205/80R16 tyre, all for free if you're passing through the Blue Mountains any time soon.

Peter