My new 107, Lucky

[newhue]

Folks, this week I have become the proud custodian of a Series Land Rover. I don't really get into naming cars but I think Lucky is very apt, more on that later.

Not sure of the year just yet, but apparently motor, g box, and all running gear are original. The motor has been rebuilt, however looks like it still leaks oil a bit. New brakes, glass, and universals. PTO, g box, transfer, winch all looked at and reconditioned where needed. A brake booster has been added but hidden. The PTO has the pully but is not fitted.

I'll be the fourth owner. The first drove it to the train station to catch the train to work. The second used it on a farm for 20 years so it's seen a bit of service. And the third restored it to its beautiful current condition.

It was involved in the Ash Wednesday fires. The shed caught fire on the corner where the Series was parked, causing some damage to the rear of the vehicle. However the fire also burnt out a water tank stand which brought down the tank extinguishing the fire. There was no one at the property at the time.

Lastly, I don't have the time, experience, space, tools to restore an old jigger; but there are a few things that can be done to complete the resto. Look after it and one day pass it on.

So you can see the name Lucky is very suited on so many fronts. And I can tell you happy is in there as well.

http://img689.imageshack.us/img689/7499/107eak.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/689/107eak.jpg/)
http://img841.imageshack.us/img841/6909/107reare.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/841/107reare.jpg/)
http://img534.imageshack.us/img534/4108/107dash.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/534/107dash.jpg/)
http://img51.imageshack.us/img51/1968/107motor.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/51/107motor.jpg/)

[juanpedro]

It looks incredible, is perfect.:BigThumb:

[keith73]

nice one :)

[Sprint]

very nice!

[Killer]

Well done Jason, it looks like a cracker.:)

Cheers, Mick.

[JDNSW]

Certainly looks to be in amazing shape!

John

[123rover50]

Beautiful. All the bits too..
One thing I must ask is where on earth did the 2 spoke steering wheel come from?
Its not correct for your truck but it does not really matter. It was on Rover cars and the early 80" models and Tickfords.
Its in better nick than the one I have on Tristan.
If you want to exchange it, keep me in mind.
Good luck with the truck.

[digger]

That is sweet!,,


where did he hide the brake booster? (near the res?)

[isuzutoo-eh]

Lucky is beautiful! On behalf of everyone who would jump at a chance to share in the custodianship, pamper it :)

[Sleepy]

What a ripper. Pork Pies, rear pto, winch, heater - some lovely extras. You're a luck guy! Do you have the canvas?

[Psimpson7]

very nice Jason.

[wagoo]

Lucky is indeed very beutiful, and I know you want to keep her original. But IMO 107s were designed to be 6x6s and I need her to resurrect an old project;)
wagoo.

[newhue]

thanks all,

I'm looking forward to putting the chassis and engine number into the AULRO machine and see what transpires when it comes.

sorry I haven't worked out how to multiple reply

123rover50,
yes you are correct it is from a Rover. The owner did tell me but I can't recall which Rover it was from. It was in far better condition than the original steering wheel so that is how it came to be. If you can find a good series wheel relevant to the model I think we could work something out.

Digger
I believe the brake booster is behind the cab under the rear tray body.

Sleepy,
what's a pork pie? The canvas is one of my responsibilities. Are Exmore the way to go here?

wagoo,
no deal...not now..not ever lol

In time I will add the capstan winch roller horn things, sorry I don't know their name.
All the Gal has been silver frosted as well, so that will take some time and care to remove.

[Sleepy]

Sleepy,
what's a pork pie? The canvas is one of my responsibilities. Are Exmore the way to go here?

The rear lights. Lucas L518 Lights - Rare as rocking horse poo!
I am no expert, but understand only a short run of Series 1's had them. Another, more common, type was the Lucas D lights which are a bit easier to come by.
Most 107's have had them destroyed, replaced etc. I had a 107 very similar to yours but not to the level of originality of yours.

Here is me a couple of years back discussing the lights.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/series-i-land-rover-enthusiasts-section/76683-pork-pie-could-we-produce-some-reasonable-replicas.html

I bought it from a fella here, OLMATE, I wonder if he is around because he bought a nice new canvas for it. I think locally but not sure. Troy, you there????

Here is a pic of "Olute" showing the canvas.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/09/957.jpg
I have since sold Olute to a fella up Albury way.

[101RRS]

Newhue,

Tell us your address and and i might be around very late one night to take those beautiful pork pies off your hands - I need a set;).

Garry

[digger]

the roller thingys are FAIRLEADs ..a generic name for rope or wire guides or rollers.

later (when you get a chance, can you post up a few snaps of the booster setup? At either end especially please, very interested to see and maybe do to my 109.



cheers

Digger

when he gets your steering wheel, I want his, as a bad condition 2 spoker is better than what I have (nothing!)

[123rover50]

Dont try and remove the wheel yet.
Yours is an early one with the early horn and dip switch in the centre of the wheel. Its in really good nick so be careful with it as they are scarce.
Never try to lever on the bakelite centre to remove it. It will chip. This centre has to come out before you can take the wheel off, but it is connected to a tube the wires run in that exits out the bottom of the steering box. There is a clamp there with a bolt that has to be loosened, the wiring disconnected, then the whole bakelite centre and long tube may be withdrawn from the top. All the oil in the steering box will run out too. Once that is out the wheel clamp bolt may be removed and the wheel taken off. Again, the boss and tube may not want to come out easy so resist the urge to pry it. Try gentle tapping from the bottom instead if need be.
I will try and sort out a good wheel.

[newhue]

the roller thingys are FAIRLEADs ..a generic name for rope or wire guides or rollers.

later (when you get a chance, can you post up a few snaps of the booster setup? At either end especially please, very interested to see and maybe do to my 109.



cheers

Digger

when he gets your steering wheel, I want his, as a bad condition 2 spoker is better than what I have (nothing!)

Can do Digger, all in good time. I won't actually have the vehicle for a few weeks, but I was dammed if I could keep it to myself.

[newhue]

Dont try and remove the wheel yet.
Yours is an early one with the early horn and dip switch in the centre of the wheel. Its in really good nick so be careful with it as they are scarce.
Never try to lever on the bakelite centre to remove it. It will chip. This centre has to come out before you can take the wheel off, but it is connected to a tube the wires run in that exits out the bottom of the steering box. There is a clamp there with a bolt that has to be loosened, the wiring disconnected, then the whole bakelite centre and long tube may be withdrawn from the top. All the oil in the steering box will run out too. Once that is out the wheel clamp bolt may be removed and the wheel taken off. Again, the boss and tube may not want to come out easy so resist the urge to pry it. Try gentle tapping from the bottom instead if need be.
I will try and sort out a good wheel.

No worries. It seems there a few things scarce on Lucky. If you find a wheel in similar or better condition it makes sense to better these old jiggers to original glory. Thanks

[The ho har's]

OHHHH Jason,


when do you want me to organise another Leaf Spring trip with the club so

you can bring this beautiful vehicle out to show it off:)


does it have to be bitumen or can we go dirt?;)

very very nice:)

[juddy]

What a fantastic land rover, well done.

[newhue]

OHHHH Jason,


when do you want me to organise another Leaf Spring trip with the club so

you can bring this beautiful vehicle out to show it off:)


does it have to be bitumen or can we go dirt?;)

very very nice:)

That's a very nice offer Caroline, I'm happy to do what ever you do on a Series day out. Finding a weekend may be a problem however. Might have to be the AULRO's 10th

[newhue]

The rear lights. Lucas L518 Lights - Rare as rocking horse poo!
I am no expert, but understand only a short run of Series 1's had them. Another, more common, type was the Lucas D lights which are a bit easier to come by.
Most 107's have had them destroyed, replaced etc. I had a 107 very similar to yours but not to the level of originality of yours.

Here is me a couple of years back discussing the lights.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/series-i-land-rover-enthusiasts-section/76683-pork-pie-could-we-produce-some-reasonable-replicas.html


Sleepy, you and others have had quite a time there.

I'm thinking since I am lucky enough to have some good pork pies we could look at getting something going. I'm a novice at this resto-collection stuff but I think it would be a grand, and Australian idea to get a run made and stick it to the poms.

From what I see there is enough interest in Series 1 in this country to justify 100, and maybe 500 if sold further afield. Did Chazza get any further

[juddy]

What's with all the other rare old UK trucks on the back ground? Where was this

[Sleepy]

Sleepy, you and others have had quite a time there.

I'm thinking since I am lucky enough to have some good pork pies we could look at getting something going. I'm a novice at this resto-collection stuff but I think it would be a grand, and Australian idea to get a run made and stick it to the poms.

From what I see there is enough interest in Series 1 in this country to justify 100, and maybe 500 if sold further afield. Did Chazza get any further

We decided it was more trouble than it's worth. The Land rover series one club LRSOC (another great online club) sell replicas and with today's terrific exchange rate it easier just to import them.

[newhue]

What's with all the other rare old UK trucks on the back ground? Where was this

Sorry Juddy, not at liberty to really talk about them. When first posting I was wondering when someone would notice the back ground. I did hear there is some talk of selling the collection, but only talk. I will ask to be informed if this becomes the case and let you all know. I don't think there is any other LR's in there though.

[newhue]

That's a very nice offer Caroline, I'm happy to do what ever you do on a Series day out. Finding a weekend may be a problem however. Might have to be the AULRO's 10th

derrrrr, AULRO's b day is not a club event.
Might have to register it as a daily driver for the first six months.

[The ho har's]

derrrrr, AULRO's b day is not a club event.
Might have to register it as a daily driver for the first six months.

Ummm yes it is we are taking the 101 up;):D

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/gclro-trips/133959-october-21-23-10-11-aulro-10th-birthday.html

Mrs hh:angel:

[Scallops]

You sick puppy! :D Awesome truck. Bet it outlasts the Puma. :wasntme:

[numpty]

Jason.

That is fantastic. You lucky, lucky bastard :D

Makes mine look like a junk heap. Look forward to seeing it out and about sometime.

Perry

[newhue]

Jason.

That is fantastic. You lucky, lucky bastard :D

Makes mine look like a junk heap. Look forward to seeing it out and about sometime.

Perry

Com-on Perry, non of them are junk. It was really out of the blue and most unexpected. I feel honoured to keep it safe and in good nick.
In some ways if it was more a daily driver it would be better. As much as I'd love to pop my little boy behind the wheel and coast down the beach with him, I can't see it happening.

You bet I look forward to seeing you out and about.

[digger]

Jason.

That is fantastic. You lucky, lucky bastard :D

Makes mine look like a junk heap. Look forward to seeing it out and about sometime.

Perry

Yep, Perry,
I'll be over to collect some of that junk asap!!:eek:
can you clear a path to the GUNBUGGY please so I can get right in!?:p

:twisted: MMMM (Non junk!) GUNBUGGY MMMMMM :twisted:

named it yet?

[numpty]

I'm sure you'll get a great deal of enjoyment out of it Jason.

I wouldn't swap my 107 (Thomas) for anything. I just need to stop working away, retire and spend my time doing something with it. And he's not junk really.

Same applies to the gunbuggy Digger :D. And it is safe, as I'm actually only 1 of 2 people who knows where it is. ;) Mmmmmmmmmmm...........no name yet either.

Perry

[newhue]

Well Lucky finally showed up today. Appears the trip up from Victoria all went well. Apart from the delivery driver almost missing the ramps.

Looks like Lucky is a 55 CKD, happy to be corrected.
Chassis 57760719
Engine 57110268
first rego GKF158

been checking him over tonight, very happy but I have a question or two.

It it worth trying to stop oil leaks, it appears if it holds it, it leaks it. Actually I could be in a bit of strife really. Turns out the resto was done 9 years ago, and barely done 500 miles since.

I noticed the radiator hoses are slightly cracked around the clamps. Several bolts need tightening or replacing, new set on tyres, and reset the front springs. Does anyone know what gap should be between the diff and bump stops. I have an inch.

In time I may have to do some more welding and grinding on the rear cross member. Doesn't look rusty, but some previous welding is surprisingly average.
No rust in chassis and bulk head, but those farmers and the uncle certainly didn't clean the cow **** out of the chassis. So will treat surface rust then spray cavity wax or oil engine oil inside I think. Ideas?

http://img695.imageshack.us/img695/1979/luckytruck.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/695/luckytruck.jpg/)

http://img257.imageshack.us/img257/2286/luckyx.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/257/luckyx.jpg/)

Was hoping to register it asap for the AULRO 10th, but maybe not now. Serious shortage of time, and skinny finances at present might see Lucky in the garage for a bit.

[isuzurover]

Very nice!

107's are by far my favourite series one...

A 107 and an FC are the 2 remeining landies I would like to own...

[Scallops]

That is one of the finest Land Rovers I've ever seen! Brilliant pickup, mate. :)

[chazza]

Nice car Jason!

Most oil leaks can be fixed - try using Loctite 515 on anywhere where it doesn't get too hot.

Loctite Black Maxx, or Blue Maxx for engine, gearbox and axle housings where higher temperatures are expected but use it sparingly so that it doesn't end up as lumps in the oil.

Leaks from revolving flanges quite often need the shaft repairing with a Speedi Sleeve before fitting the new seal - if there is a groove that will catch a thumbnail; sleeve it.

Paper gaskets usually only need to be used where they also act as an adjustment shim.

The gearbox was designed to leak oil at: the top cover; the dipstick; the inspection plate on top of the transfer box; and the adjusting shims between the transfer box and the speedo-drive housing. Stripping and cleaning these parts and using an appropriate sealant should fix all of them. I am still working out a way to seal the dipstick effectively. In addition the input shaft doesn't have a seal so it can leak on steep downslopes.

The steering box shouldn't leak if semi-fluid grease is used and the steering relay will leak, unless the race the seal runs on, is sealed underneath with something like Loctite Shaft and Bearing Mount,

Cheers Charlie

[wrinklearthur]

Hi Jason

What we need to do now, is have a page for parts required for our series one restorations, where we can let others know, what parts we are looking for and the sources we have found.

Does lucky have the 11" brakes as the first of the 107's had the rather dismal 10" drums?

The answer to the smaller brakes was drive slowly.

Cheers Arthur

[newhue]

Hi Jason

What we need to do now, is have a page for parts required for our series one restorations, where we can let others know, what parts we are looking for and the sources we have found.

Does lucky have the 11" brakes as the first of the 107's had the rather dismal 10" drums?

The answer to the smaller brakes was drive slowly.

Cheers Arthur


I didn't measure the drums, ran out of time. It has 9 leafs on the front, and 10 on the back. I think the later 107's had 11 leafs on the rear, so it may have 10inch drums. Will check tonight.

Lucky came with a few manuals, but an interesting parts manual from "four wheel drives" was included. Can't get a copy on cd mailed easily. 03 9890 0500.
A parts/resto page could be handy...

[Outlaw]

Awwww very very nice 107 Jason [thumbsupbig]

Make sure it gets to the AGM ;)

[russellrovers]

I didn't measure the drums, ran out of time. It has 9 leafs on the front, and 10 on the back. I think the later 107's had 11 leafs on the rear, so it may have 10inch drums. Will check tonight.

Lucky came with a few manuals, but an interesting parts manual from "four wheel drives" was included. Can't get a copy on cd mailed easily. 03 9890 0500.
A parts/resto page could be handy...
hi newe regards tarp i have a orignal tarp on my 109 which is the same tub size as the 107 you are more than welcome to take photos i have a contact for you who makes them also i have a stock standard 107 in de luxe trim all orignal matching numbers regards jim :wasntme:

[Scallops]

In regard to oil leaks - some will (have) said you can do this and that and sort them out. Well good luck with that! :D Series 1's leak oil if they have oil - you can change every gasket etc and then go for a long country drive, put a drip tray under her and I'll tell you what, it'll leak oil. ;)

You have a grand old lady in lucky, Jason - just enjoy it. :)

[newhue]

In regard to oil leaks - some will (have) said you can do this and that and sort them out. Well good luck with that! :D Series 1's leak oil if they have oil - you can change every gasket etc and then go for a long country drive, put a drip tray under her and I'll tell you what, it'll leak oil. ;)

You have a grand old lady in lucky, Jason - just enjoy it. :)

Dan I was kind of thinking that. Lucky has barely done 500 mils after a motor rebuild, and I don't think time perished gaskets much. So it leaves you with they just leak oil, period.

I not hopeful it would pass a road worthy actually, unless I get a mechanic who understands old LR's. It's probably not much, but compared to a modern motor it leaks like a sieve.

[Scallops]

Dan I was kind of thinking that. Lucky has barely done 500 mils after a motor rebuild, and I don't think time perished gaskets much. So it leaves you with they just leak oil, period.

I not hopeful it would pass a road worthy actually, unless I get a mechanic who understands old LR's. It's probably not much, but compared to a modern motor it leaks like a sieve.

You need to use a reasonable mechanic - look for a sympathetic one with experience with old English vehicles - such a person might roadworthy lucky for you then let you know if there is anything you need to see to ASAP. ;)

PM me if you'd like a suggestion.

[newhue]

That is sweet!,,


where did he hide the brake booster? (near the res?)

http://img444.imageshack.us/img444/294/booster1.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/444/booster1.jpg/)
http://img696.imageshack.us/img696/2556/booster2i.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/696/booster2i.jpg/)

[newhue]

Poking around tonight I had a look at the rear brakes.
Turns out beside the drivers rear way over adjusted, the drums are 11", so happy they are the later version.

I also found a 2" hole in the bell housing with perished rubber running around the outside lip. I can see the clutch. Is this meant to be?

I think I will have a crack at some of the oil leaks. Might start on the rear diff, and build up to the front diff and the round ball things on the end of it.
Do I install confidence in y:eek:ou

[wrinklearthur]

Poking around tonight I had a look at the rear brakes.
Turns out beside the drivers rear way over adjusted, the drums are 11", so happy they are the later version.

I also found a 2" hole in the bell housing with perished rubber running around the outside lip. I can see the clutch. Is this meant to be?

I think I will have a crack at some of the oil leaks. Might start on the rear diff, and build up to the front diff and the round ball things on the end of it.
Do I install confidence in you
Hi Newhue

Having 11" brakes is a kick in the right direction. :thumbsup:

That hole is meant to have a large rubber bung, Called --- wait for it--------Grommet for bell housing hole, part number 232604.

The other side of the bell housing has a grommet,Called --- wait for it--------Grommet for bell housing hole, part number 236281 RHD. :eek:

If you are still Lucky, you may find some of these still and if you do I would use the type of engine sealant, that is used instead of gaskets, to seal them in place.

With the swivel pin housings, turn the wheels hard one way and look at the condition of the chrome on those balls, then do the same back the other way.
If the balls are pitted at all, then you would be wasting your time and hard earned stuff, by only, just replacing the swivel pin housing seals.

If the condition of the chrome is good then replace the seals, then pay attention to the outside of the seals where they are seated and use a good quality sealant, between those surfaces .
Consider also, doing the unthinkable ( a big sorry to all the rivet counters! ) and up grade the swivel pins to to later Railko bushes as well.

A three part Youtube clip, for Defender not series one, but is good to learn from, on how to do this repair.
Landrover Defender & Discover Axle refurb rebuild Railko Bushes Swivel housings the lot - YouTube
This clip does have some info about CV joints, for example, that is not applicable.

Don't be tempted to discard the gaskets and use sealant only in some of the joints, as some of the gaskets are meant to be there, as distancing pieces.

In conjunction with paper and cork gaskets, I have done always and still use today, with excellent results (no leaks), Permatex no 3 aviation gasket cement, spread on all mating surfaces.

Cheers Arthur and good night all

[chazza]

Check out the following businesses for the bell housing grommet - I bought mine from one of them but I can't remember which one.
Dunsfold DLR (http://www.dunsfold.com/)
L. R. Series - specialists in land rover, land rover series and range rover - gearbox, axle, transmission parts, spares and major units (http://www.lrseries.com/)


If the swivel balls are pitted as Arthur suggests, you can either replace them or repair them. I bought cheap ones, which started to rust whilst in the shed, so on my S3 I de-rusted them in a molasses bath and filled the pits with two-part epoxy filler. I got the idea from someone on the S1 forum who used Araldite and he said they hadn't leaked in the two years they had been on the car.

Railko kits are available from Dunsfolds I think. I bought S3 kits and machined a new upper swivel to fit.

Before you reassemble your first oil leak on the axle, examine the faces of the parts for damage. Just about every component on mine, had bumps and nicks from people using hammers and screwdrivers to get parts apart. File the lumps off with a smooth file making sure any swarf doesn't get inside where it shouldn't be. If you don't do this the chances are the joint will leak when assembled,

Cheers Charlie

[series1buff]

Just a word about the taper roller swivel bearings used on the early series 1's . They were fitted on both upper and lower swivel pins I believe. This isn't a good idea as many cases of front axle oscillation have been reported. At certain frequencies ( hitting a bump or travelling over railway lines ) the front axle goes into a wild swinging state... I've experienced it myself on a few different old 4X4's , WW2 Jeeps and a 1941 1/2 ton Dodge weapons carrier . Reports from series 1 owners have indicated that fitting a railco kit solves the problem. MIKE

[wrinklearthur]

Hi All

The old way of using tapered roller bearings, top and bottom as per the early 80", led to a lot of problems after the land rover had done some serious work.
The rollers used to mark it's cup and cone, where the rollers rode in the straight ahead position. These dents in time, would get that bad that the bearings would then lock and caused the cone to turn on the pin.

There was a slight improvement in reduction of wheel shimmy, when the steel cone and brass cup was introduced, but they had a high wear rate and needed replacing often.

Most shimmy problems came about by having loose steering parts.

Cheers Arthur

[Timj]

Hi Jason,

Being a 1955 107" and assuming it has not been changed by a previous owner you will have brass cone/bushes in the top of the swivel housing and you will have a bearing at the bottom. These are still available if you want to keep things original but to be honest they were replaced with Railko bushes for a reason and that is that the later parts are better. If you replace them they are completely internal and the only way anyone would even know they are not original would be to pull the top steering arm off to have a look.

FWD here in brisbane have a complete kit to convert the early S1/2 to a Railko bush set up and they are not too expensive. Members of GCLRO get some discount so make sure you mention it. Then you need new swivel seals, probably new hub seals and a few gaskets and felt seals to complete the job. Make sure you get new lock washers for the big hub nuts, don't reuse the old ones. A press makes it much easier to get the bushes in and out of the swivel housing but it is possible with a hammer, just tends to leave marks on your fingers if you miss :). New swivel balls are available from Paddocks in the UK for 69 pounds + freight but they are Britpart. I replaced the ones on my 80" recently with these and then put leather gaiters over them so we will see how they go rust wise. I also did the conversion to Railko at the same time and the difference in steering is quite amazing. The brass bushes had a fair bit of wear and play.

PM me or give me a call if I can help at all.

Tim.

[newhue]

Thanks all for the help, I'm enjoying the adventure of ownership even though I have been for a run in Lucky yet.

I'm a bit perplexed by it's numbers, as in the workshop manual that came with it, 62 reprint, list all the numbers for engine, g box, and front axel as L.H.D if you work right from the Chassis number.

the numbers I have found are
eng : 5711 0268
Chas: 5776 0719
F Diff 5720 3064

To me it reads amongst all numbers as a R.H.D home market engine, and diff. Am I reading this wrong?

Frustratingly can't find the rear diff number, but the manual has no listing for it either?

And as for the gbox, so far my neck doesn't bend enough to get to the number, unless I'm looking in the wrong spot. Will have another go soon.

Ideas or explanations please

thanks

[newhue]

Talking to myself a bit here,

Any one know where one of these can be found, or suggest an alternative.
I've been to Craddocks, Paddocks, LR series, FWD spares and Four Wheel Drives and had no luck.
I've started thinking of using the elbow and grafting it onto a S3 air hose.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/ (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/257/s1airhose.jpg/)

[Timj]

Two possibilities would be The Series One Shop in Victoria and Dunsfolds in the UK. You have to know the part number for the Dunsfolds site though.

TimJ.

[newhue]

No I don't have a parts catalogue as yet. Mind you, after scowling 364 odd pages at LR series I should get a parts book.

I'm surprised they don't seem readily available, you'd think a repo should be popular enough.
Try the series shops first.

thanks

[wrinklearthur]

http://img257.imageshack.us/img257/5598/s1airhose.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/257/s1airhose.jpg/)

Hi Newhue

A couple of numbers for you.

Series 1 Parts Catalogue; covers 86, 88, 107 and 109 Petrol and Diesel models --- Part Number. 4107

Connection air cleaner to carburetter; ---- Part Number. 263149

[Timj]

Can't find that part number at Dunsfolds but it shows up at The Series One Shop here Search (http://www.seriesoneshop.com/contents/en-us/search.html'searchphrase=263149) for $79.95, so not too bad. Have to ring them to see if it is actually in stock though :).

Tim.

[newhue]

Thanks Tim and Arthur,

apparently the hose is not original but is a good effort.
Alex from The Series One shop has me sorted .

Getting very close to registering lucky now. Can't wait to turn the key and rollout the drive.

[newhue]

looking at the lubricants chart in the owners manual, SAE 50 is suggested for gear box and transfer case.

Can't find any of that weight anywhere, wondering what others run.

[Sleepy]

Here's some some leads:)
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/good-oil/71605-lubrication-oils-according-rick130-more.html

[newhue]

Been a big day for me putting the steering back together. I'm no mechanic, much better at colouring in houses, but to spend the day with the old man who is a mechanic, was a nice thing. Trouble is, he knows, and I know, his past his reliable service date so we just replace parts as he wrecks them. Lucky for me today, not to many, only a wheel cylinder.

My good mate Scollops told me to forget about trying to stop a series from leaking oil, but I just can't help myself being a new owner, I had to give it a go.

stripping it down is the easy part. As you can see I have 25mm between diff and bump stop. That will be the next thing to spend my bucks on.
http://img708.imageshack.us/img708/1753/s15rx.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/708/s15rx.jpg/)

some bits all clean and ready to go
http://img257.imageshack.us/img257/1027/s13b.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/257/s13b.jpg/)

got a bit side tracked and fitted this the fairlead, it was easier to do
http://img233.imageshack.us/img233/3430/s11t.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/233/s11t.jpg/)

also had a call to say my new skids had arrived
http://img31.imageshack.us/img31/8163/s14cv.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/31/s14cv.jpg/)

We ended up getting it back together minus the wheel cylinder. Getting closer.

[inside]

Nice truck mate.

[newhue]

Spent the night starting at the junction box after installing the steering wheel. Thought my labelling of wires was better than it actually was, so deciphering the wiring diagram in the manual took some staring.
It would have helped if the wires actually had colour left in them instead of all being black, and that the junction box be wired the same way as the diagram. But still very happy, turned the key and no puffs of smoke, and all indicators, lights and horn work.

Well horn does but very soft and jittery; will have to do some work on that.
And the dip switch dips alright, to completely black out as in no lights. I read somewhere one head lights was meant to stay on but need to check.

Fitted the tyre to the bonnet to see how it looks, I think I leave it there, it's as iconic as the car I think.

[123rover50]

Looking good Jason. I forgot to ask. Did you get the felt bush for the steering column from Scollops?
Also noticed in your photo you have the brake hose clamped off but havnt got the end where it joins the steel pipe going through the bracket in the chassis. Is this intentional?
When you are finished we could get a SLOW run to somewhere central and catch up.

Keith

[wrinklearthur]

looking at the lubricants chart in the owners manual, SAE 50 is suggested for gear box and transfer case.

Can't find any of that weight anywhere, wondering what others run.
Hi Newhue

After repeated failures, of the phosphores-bronze bush for 2nd and 3rd gears, I found out that using, EP 90 oil and its aluminium oxide additive, which is for wear protection of diffs, when used in a series gearbox, reacts with that bush, causing it to break down.

To find out where you can obtain, straight 50 grade mineral oil, just ring your local oil distributer and they will arrange to have some sent to a outlet near you.

[LRO53]

I think you can just run straight SAE50 engine oil in the gearbox you will be fine. Rover recommend this on the oil plate.

Castrol Tell me the following, I would disregard the comments on SAE30 grade for the engine as the Oil Plate in the Land Rovers state oil for the UK market. You would want a SAE 40 grade at least for QLD

Hi Alex,

Thank you for your email enquiry.

I have listed below a number of lubricating oil suggestions and some
notes that should be of use to you;


Engine: Agricastrol Medium
This is a SAE 30 grade engine oil, the most comparable oil in our
current range would be Castrol Tection Mono 30.

Gearbox: Agricastrol Heavy
This is a SAE 50 grade engine oil. Engine oils are often used in
certain transmissions as they don't contain any EP additives. Where
high proportions of yellow metals (brass/bronze) are present then high
level of EP additive (as per that found in most modern automotive gear
oils) may be too harsh on this material.

Engine oils don't contain EP but do contain antiwear additives that give
you some load carrying ability without harming yellow metals. In the
above case I would suggest using either a SAE 50 engine oil (Tection
Mono DD50) or a transmission oil that incorporates engine oil chemistry
in the same grade (Castrol TFC 450).

Steering: Agricastrol Gear Oil Medium
Unfortunately, I've gone back quite a way and cannot locate any
information on this product or separate specification listing. Is there
any specification/grade information or alternate list of recommended
products available?

Axle: Agricastrol Gear Oil EP
Based on the information that I have, Land Rover over this period seemed
to be indicating a Hypoid (API GL5 type oil) be used in a SAE 140 /
85W140 viscosity grade. In our range, this would be covered by the
Castrol EPX 85W140.


With regards to API GL levels the numbers do give us an indication of
the level of EP additives present. Having said that, the level of
yellow metals used (and the load carrying requirement) will influence
what API GL levels would be quoted by the equipment manufacturer.

Regards,

[newhue]

Yes my father tells me engine oil was used in gearbox's regularly in the 50,60, 70's. It's finding the straight SAE 50 that's the problem.
A Castrol representative suggested GTX 20w-50 engine oil in the white container as a gear box and trans oil.
I see down the road from me there is a company called The Oil Man who has a straight SAE 50 trans oil so I might give him a go. Was quoted $105 for a 20lt.

I have used an 80-90EP in the diffs, and had some straight SAE 140 floating around for the steering box.

[chazza]

Have a look at Penrite's site; they make oil specifically for classic cars,

cheers Charlie

[numpty]

Nice work Jason.

Where did you get the tyres? They'll look good on Lucky.

[wrinklearthur]

Hi Jason

This information is for a series three, which is essentially the same gearbox, with one extra synchromesh ring set fitted.


Reference; Castrol Australia - NetLube (http://www.datateck.com.au/lube/castr_au/default.asp)

Commercial Vehicles - Light/Medium & 4WD
LAND ROVER
Series III, 2.25 Litre Eng., 4x4 (1974-1983)

CRANKCASE

http://www.datateck.com.au/lube/castr_au/ImagesLube/GTX-20W50.jpg
CASTROL GTX 20W-50
Castrol GTX 20W-50 uses modern additive technology to provide extra protection for older engines requiring 20W-50 engine oils. Castrol GTX 20W-50 provides greater reliability for your engine. New improved formulation for superior protection against sludge. Advanced protection against higher temperatures and stresses encountered in pre-2002 engines. Premium quality base oils and anti-wear additives that extend the life of your engine. Is compatible with catalytic converters and oxygen sensors. Helps minimise oil consumption. Meets and exceeds API SN/CF. Castrol GTX 20W-50 is suitable for petrol, LPG or CNG cars, light commercial vehicles and 4WDs where API SN/CF or earlier specifications are recommended.


http://www.datateck.com.au/lube/castr_au/ImagesLube/GTX-MEng-15W40.jpg
or CASTROL GTX MODERN ENGINE 15W-40
Castrol GTX Modern Engine 15W-40 uses the latest technology to meet the needs of today’s more demanding modern engines. Castrol GTX Modern Engine 15W-40 provides greater reliability for your modern engine. Contains anti-sludge formula that provides 25% better sludge protection compared to tough industry standards*. Anti-wear additives that extend the life of your engine. Advanced protection against higher temperatures and stresses encountered in modern engines. Provides at least 50% better high temperature wear protection than the toughest API standards. Is suitable for 4, 6 and 8 cylinder engines built by most manufacturers from 1995, provides superior protection for turbo chargers, multivalve systems and catalytic converters, delivers higher performance reserve for longer oil change intervals and/or smaller sump sizes in modern cars. *vs. API SN/CF Industry Standards. Castrol GTX Modern Engine 15W-40 meets and exceeds API SN/CF, ACEA A3/B4 requirements. Suitable for petrol, diesel, LPG or CNG cars, light commercial vehicles and 4WDs where API SN/CF or earlier specifications are recommended.

Service Refill Capacity: 6.2 Litres.
See note 337 (http://www.datateck.com.au/lube/castr_au/default.asp#idNote337) below.
MANUAL TRANSMISSION

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
CASTROL VMX-M 75W/85
Mineral transmission and transaxle fluid especially formulated as a factory fill fluid for Mitsubishi vehicles and used in passenger cars, 4WD's and light commercial vehicles. SAE 75W/85, API GL4.

Service Refill Capacity: 1.5 Litres.
DIFFERENTIAL

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
CASTROL EPX 80W/90
Multipurpose gearbox, steering gear and differential oil for passenger cars, light trucks, farm tractors and earthmoving equipment. SAE 80W/90, API GL5.

Service Refill Capacity: 1.7, 2.5 Litres.
See note 15 (http://www.datateck.com.au/lube/castr_au/default.asp#idNote15) below.
4WD TRANSFER

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
CASTROL VMX-M 75W/85
Mineral transmission and transaxle fluid especially formulated as a factory fill fluid for Mitsubishi vehicles and used in passenger cars, 4WD's and light commercial vehicles. SAE 75W/85, API GL4.

Service Refill Capacity: 2.5 Litres.
4WD DIFFERENTIAL

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
CASTROL EPX 80W/90
Multipurpose gearbox, steering gear and differential oil for passenger cars, light trucks, farm tractors and earthmoving equipment. SAE 80W/90, API GL5.

Service Refill Capacity: 1.7 Litres.
See note 30 (http://www.datateck.com.au/lube/castr_au/default.asp#idNote30) below.
BRAKE


CASTROL BRAKE FLUID HD DOT 3
A heavy duty brake fluid suitable for use in disc and drum brakes where a dot 3 fluid is required.


http://www.datateck.com.au/lube/castr_au/ImagesLube/4L%20Super%20Dot4.jpg
or CASTROL RESPONSE SUPER DOT 4
Castrol Response Super DOT 4 is suitable for use in all brake fluid systems in cars, and light commercial vehicles requiring either a DOT 3, DOT 4 or Super DOT 4 product (Not suitable for use where a mineral oil based fluid is specified).


RADIATOR

http://www.datateck.com.au/lube/castr_au/ImagesLube/2.5L%20Coolant%20AFAB.jpg
CASTROL ANTIFREEZE-ANTIBOIL
A fully formulated, ethylene glycol based coolant designed to meet the requirements of the majority of cars and light commercial vehicles with petrol and diesel engines. Use at 30 - 50% concentration as recommended by the vehicle manufacturer.

Service Refill Capacity: 8.1 Litres.
See note 921 (http://www.datateck.com.au/lube/castr_au/default.asp#idNote921) below.
NOTES
15 Rear differential.

30 Front axle swivel pin housings, use CASTROL EPX 80W/90, 0.5 litre each.

337 May also use CASTROL MAGNATEC.

921 Do NOT mix Castrol coolant with other brands of antifreeze, coolants or corrosion inhibitors because of possible incompatibility of inhibitors. Follow manufacturer's recommendations for coolant concentration.

Capacities shown are approximate only. Where the manufacturer specifies the capacity as including filter/s, the capacity is marked thus (*). Unless otherwise indicated (e.g. by a notation), capacities shown are service refill quantities. In all cases, the dipstick or level plug should be used as a final check.

[Col.Coleman]

Have a look at Penrite's site; they make oil specifically for classic cars,

cheers Charlie

X2

Was using Castrol, but the oil consumption in the older motors is just way too high.

Penrite make more specific oils, and cover everything for the older cars, including the SU Carb oil.

A few of us run HPR Diesel 20w/60 in the motor.

CC

[newhue]

Looking good Jason. I forgot to ask. Did you get the felt bush for the steering column from Scollops?
Also noticed in your photo you have the brake hose clamped off but havnt got the end where it joins the steel pipe going through the bracket in the chassis. Is this intentional?

Keith

Re the felt bush, it must have gone it's own way somewhere in the travels. I made a new one simple enough.
The brake line was still attached and crimped to stop the system from leaking further. Maybe your is different, but on mine you cant disconnect the hose from the wheel cylinder without disconnecting the hose from the brake line first.

[newhue]

Nice work Jason.

Where did you get the tyres? They'll look good on Lucky.

I got them from GT Automotive Service and Tyres at Inala 3879 0055
They are sold as GT Radial X Grip, but on the side wall it says Grand Tour.
Can't make sense of that but suited me fine, as the tread is more my liking than what the X Grip suggests it should be on the net.

$170 a tyre, and $25 for a tube. 7.00x16

[numpty]

They look very much like Goodyear Custom Grip Hi Milers, a set of which I've just purchased for the Gunbuggy. I like them.:BigThumb:

[newhue]

However Numpty the Hi Milers are miles apart from what I have.
These things have more lead on them than a battle field. There a povo chinese tyre made to do 25klm in a rice field, not 85 on a good road.
If I could have got Hi Milers in 700x16 I'd be there.
Where as these supposed X Grips are meant to be 8 ply, I see what I have is 6 ply, but I couldn't be bothered arguing with the retailer over what's what.
They look the part, are a rag tyre, and the right size. That's about as good as it gets I think.

[newhue]

Hi gang, thought I was doing well but I have hit a pot hole.

I had it all back together but the whole hub is tight to turn, even when the hub was in "free" position. I pulled the free wheel hub off and the wheel hub spins fine. However I noticed the axel shaft is not centre of the housing. Can I fix this with a jiggle of some sort, or do I have to pull it all apart and make sure it all sits better. What have I done wrong?
http://img263.imageshack.us/img263/5216/axel1g.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/263/axel1g.jpg/)http://img593.imageshack.us/img593/3157/axel2d.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/593/axel2d.jpg/)

thanks

[Col.Coleman]

Can you move the stub up and down?

You will need to reshim top and bottom and then do your preload.

Check you haven't damaged the outer oil seal if off centre.

Either that or the stub axle is bent, bearings are not seated properly, and so on.

Remove, inspect and refit.

CC

[newhue]

Can you move the stub up and down? Yes

You will need to reshim top and bottom and then do your preload. Ohhh

Check you haven't damaged the outer oil seal if off centre. Ok, the car has done nothing apart from just sit here, so hopefully still good

Either that or the stub axle is bent, unlikely, all worked before I touched it, bearings are not seated properly, quite probable and so on.

Remove, inspect and refit. oki doki

CC


Thanks

[wrinklearthur]

Hi Jason

Did you put the large roller bearing, that carries the half shaftback, back inside the swivel pin ball housing and it isn't still sitting on the work bench?

[newhue]

lol... yes Arthur I'm not that much of a muppet, well I don't think so. No bearings left on the bench.

It seems, the axels were right till the free wheel hubs were fitted. After nipping up the lock nut on the axels ends, things git tight, and it seems to have pulled the axels out of there place.
I think I will bush the free wheel hubs and put some original flanged on, where ever I get them from. Any ideas.
In the mean time, time to pull it all apart and have another go.

[cjc_td5]

Hi Newhue

After repeated failures, of the phosphores-bronze bush for 2nd and 3rd gears, I found out that using, EP 90 oil and its aluminium oxide additive, which is for wear protection of diffs, when used in a series gearbox, reacts with that bush, causing it to break down.

To find out where you can obtain, straight 50 grade mineral oil, just ring your local oil distributer and they will arrange to have some sent to a outlet near you.

Sorry to hijack your thread Newhue, but I would like to clarify the following with those that may be in the know better than me::)

I have used a Valvoline Gear Oil SAE90 API GL-5 & GL-6 oil in my gearbox (and diffs). I cannot find any reference to EP90 on the bottle. Does anyone know if this oil is OK for the "yellow" bits in the gearbox?? If not, I have some GTX 20-50W that I have used in the engine that might be better off in the gearbox as well?

Regards,
Chris

[newhue]

Chris, it depends what vehicle you are using the Valvaline gear box oil in. But I'd say stay with the g box oil in the g box, GTX motor oil in the motor. EP stands for extreme pressure thus runs in g boxes and diffs. There are all sorts of additives put into oils to make them better suited for their use.
A series g box from my understanding has brass pieces that can be affected by some of these additives. G boxes in other later vehicles may not or do not have these concerns.
When a series box was made many of these additives didn't exist, and neither did all the specialised oils, so motor oil filled the gap in a gear box.
Look back through the thread and there are some links to "The Good Oil". I think it's one of the later ones, but it talks about brass and additives.

[cjc_td5]

Chris, it depends what vehicle you are using the Valvaline gear box oil in. But I'd say stay with the g box oil in the g box, GTX motor oil in the motor. EP stands for extreme pressure thus runs in g boxes and diffs. There are all sorts of additives put into oils to make them better suited for their use.
A series g box from my understanding has brass pieces that can be affected by some of these additives. G boxes in other later vehicles may not or do not have these concerns.
When a series box was made many of these additives didn't exist, and neither did all the specialised oils, so motor oil filled the gap in a gear box.
Look back through the thread and there are some links to "The Good Oil". I think it's one of the later ones, but it talks about brass and additives.

Sorry Newhue, should have specified the vehicle. It is a '54 86". When I put it back together last year I think I put the Valvoline gear oil in all gear areas (transmission, transfer, diffs) and GTX in the motor.

I'll have a look through "The Good Oil" section thanks.

Cheers,
Chris

[newhue]

Well i discovered why my axels were not centre and the whole hub was difficult to turn.
The previous owner had used a similar bearing in the top of the swivel ball similar to the bottom. He had used a 2.5mm spacer under the lower bearing which lowered the outer black cup thingy that the hub bolts onto. This put friction on the bearing and seals which made it firm to turn, and when the free wheel hub was added, the whole thing just about locked up. So after pulling it apart and putting in a Railko kit, and some standard flanges it's all smick.

[Timj]

Well i discovered why my axels were not centre and the whole hub was difficult to turn.
The previous owner had used a similar bearing in the top of the swivel ball similar to the bottom. He had used a 2.5mm spacer under the lower bearing which lowered the outer black cup thingy that the hub bolts onto. This put friction on the bearing and seals which made it firm to turn, and when the free wheel hub was added, the whole thing just about locked up. So after pulling it apart and putting in a Railko kit, and some standard flanges it's all smick.

That's good to hear Jason. I wonder why they put the top bearing in previously? I can't think of any reason it would be better than the railko. I'm still getting mine back together after a few issues with damaged studs and broken bolts so you actually beat me to it :).

Cheers,

Tim.

[newhue]

it's not over yet, having a bit of a moment with the right brake drum sticking. New shoes, machined drum, new wheel cylinders, aligned shoes with drum, not even bleed yet, but when the drums locking grub screws are but in it seems to bind and become tight to turn. Seems to be my lot at the moment, freeing up things.

hey thanks for running through the hub issue.

[wrinklearthur]

it's not over yet, having a bit of a moment with the right brake drum sticking. New shoes, machined drum, new wheel cylinders, aligned shoes with drum, not even bleed yet, but when the drums locking grub screws are but in it seems to bind and become tight to turn. Seems to be my lot at the moment, freeing up things.
Hi Jason

First slip the driving flange off, then spin the hub, marking the outside edge of the brake drum, using a piece of chalk. Hold the chalk steady by using a block of wood, at the hub centre height.

If there is run out of the drum, the chalk mark will show at only one place being the high spot, then try the face of the drum using the same technique.

If at the last, with the drum removed and the high spot still showing, but now on the face of the hub, I would looking for a wheel bearing cup that hasn't seated properly.

If the drum has no run out, there may be a small oily spot inside the drum.

[newhue]

Well enthusiasts, there comes a day that differs from the day you first took delivery of your prized possession, and that day is the first day you drive it.

Today was that day for me. I finished of the brakes, added the last of the oil to the diff, tightened the wheel nuts and poured in 20lt of fresh fuel into the tank. Pulled the choke out and pushed in the big silver button. Lucky burst into life and crept out of the garage.
His not registered yet but I couldn't resist a few laps around the block. Love the idea and freedom of no seat belts and door tops. All went well however the brakes a bit sensitive, and have to get aquatinted with the turning arc as I think it beats my 130.
Back home and picked the kids up for a drive along the grassy easement over the road. Not sure who was the more excited, me or the kids, but into 4wd we go and down through an earth gutter. Lucky just putted through crossing axles and crawling out the other side. I thought what the hell, into reverse and back through it. Very impressed what this little 107 can do with worn out front suspension.

Will have to get some pics up tomorrow, and rattle my dags now and get the rego sorted.

[extreme]

Good work :D

[digger]

Well enthusiasts, there comes a day that differs from the day you first took delivery of your prized possession, and that day is the first day you drive it.

Today was that day for me. I finished of the brakes, added the last of the oil to the diff, tightened the wheel nuts and poured in 20lt of fresh fuel into the tank. Pulled the choke out and pushed in the big silver button. Lucky burst into life and crept out of the garage.
His not registered yet but I couldn't resist a few laps around the block. Love the idea and freedom of no seat belts and door tops. All went well however the brakes a bit sensitive, and have to get aquatinted with the turning arc as I think it beats my 130.
Back home and picked the kids up for a drive along the grassy easement over the road. Not sure who was the more excited, me or the kids, but into 4wd we go and down through an earth gutter. Lucky just putted through crossing axles and crawling out the other side. I thought what the hell, into reverse and back through it. Very impressed what this little 107 can do with worn out front suspension.

Will have to get some pics up tomorrow, and rattle my dags now and get the rego sorted.

No photos?

I call shannagins :) c'mon New?? (congrats)

[newhue]

No photos?

I call shannagins :) c'mon New?? (congrats)

You are right Digger, very poor on my behalf. Take 2

http://img16.imageshack.us/img16/14/s11cs.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/16/s11cs.jpg/)

http://img220.imageshack.us/img220/7056/s12co.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/220/s12co.jpg/)

http://img94.imageshack.us/img94/5996/s13dj.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/94/s13dj.jpg/)

http://img442.imageshack.us/img442/5846/s14sz.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/442/s14sz.jpg/)

http://img819.imageshack.us/img819/5176/s15b.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/819/s15b.jpg/)

http://img829.imageshack.us/img829/5480/s17h.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/829/s17h.jpg/)


http://img221.imageshack.us/img221/2152/s15bejrdodiyt.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/221/s15bejrdodiyt.jpg/)

http://img856.imageshack.us/img856/698/s18f.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/856/s18f.jpg/)

http://img546.imageshack.us/img546/6233/s110.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/546/s110.jpg/)

http://img526.imageshack.us/img526/8150/s111m.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/526/s111m.jpg/)

http://img651.imageshack.us/img651/7702/s112.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/651/s112.jpg/)

[Col.Coleman]

Very Very Nice Jason, and congrats on getting it all back together and working. Nothing like the proper original manuals to go off, and some people who know hey:D

Your killing me having all the extra goodies, like Capstan, rear PTO, heater and tow plate, all of which I hope to find and fit to my 107".

Looking at yours with the door tops off, I have a few spares with bent upper frames I am thinking of modifying the tops on to get the lines right in the cab. Either fitting roll down plastic widows, or cutting the window frames off completely for summer, keeping the originals for winter. Hmm......

Again well done, and can't wait to see it out and about.

CC

[newhue]

Thanks CC
yep can't wait to get it on the road and rolling legally. He developed a back fire and some spluttering today, scared the crap out of me when it first went off. Will have to work on that, or reasons why. At least read over Scollops last adventure again.

I tell you what's killing me, and this is not to rub anything in, is the seller has the barrel wheel thing for the PTO but can't find it. It was part of the sale but no show so far.

I will have to get someone who knows what it should feel like to take it for a spin. To me it goes well but seems a bit slow, funny enough, and pick up is there but I imagined perhaps a bit more. Maybe you don't notice it because you notice all the other vibrations and noise.

Still all good fun

[The ho har's]

Congrats Jason:D

Looking very very nice, will be great to see lucky out and about with SLOw:)

Mrs hh:angel:

PS the chassis we picked up today turns out to be a 109":)

[Col.Coleman]

Congrats Jason:D

Looking very very nice, will be great to see lucky out and about with SLOw:)

Mrs hh:angel:

PS the chassis we picked up today turns out to be a 109":)

PM on the way

No wait, Phone call

CC

[123rover50]

Hi Jason. Looks GREAT....
The thing for the PTO. Do you mean a belt pulley?
Keep on him about it if it was a part of the deal as they are worth bucks.
Dont want him selling it off to someone else.
Keith

[digger]

MMM
I officially withdraw my "shannanigans" call !!

Mate thats a beauty - well done

:twisted:(just PM me your address and I'll be over soon for it!!):twisted:


cheers
Digger

[zulu Delta 534]

Looks great Jason, and you're right, nothing quite beats that first start up and run!
As for the ability of the little old beast, it will continue to amaze you the more you drive it, as in fact the technology behind actual four wheel drive has not advanced one iota since your vehicle was made. A little bit of electronic assistance, a lot more comfort and speed but that is about it. You just have to learn to take your time and smell the roses (over the oil) on the way.

Regards
Glen

[wrinklearthur]

I tell you what's killing me, and this is not to rub anything in, is the seller has the barrel wheel thing for the PTO but can't find it. It was part of the sale but no show so far.

The most common attachment for the Land rover PTO was the belt pulley for driving via a flat belt to a chaff cutter or cream separator.


I will have to get someone who knows what it should feel like to take it for a spin. To me it goes well but seems a bit slow, funny enough, and pick up is there but I imagined perhaps a bit more. Maybe you don't notice it because you notice all the other vibrations and noise.

Bring it down to my place and I will take it for a spin around the family farm !
:burnrubber:

[newhue]

ZD, for me it was the first drive of a series full stop so I didn't know what to expect really. It was good fun I have to say. I assume they are not fast from what others say, but just curious to see if Lucky is running at his best.

Interesting the history of 4wd's when you look at it like that, I had never done so. This 1955 beast went where my 2006 rodeo struggled with it's limited slip diff and IFS, so there you go. I could feel the front let go when cross axeled but the rear had enough to push, then it was it's turn as the front grabbed and through we went.
I though I had gotten to like smelling the roses in the PUMA, but looks like I will have to re adjust for the series. It a nice factor to bring into ones life, going slower.
I think my accelerator pump membrane in the carb could be playing up. It seems to have all the symptoms the manual suggests. Kind of in two minds weather to give it to an expert, or give it a crack myself. However I feel I should, and get to know the car and it's workings better.

wrinklearthur, don't temp me. When I've had enough of work and Brisbane, my wife and i regularly through around the idea of to Tassie.

[wrinklearthur]

wrinklearthur, don't temp me. When I've had enough of work and Brisbane, my wife and i regularly through around the idea of to Tassie.
Best times to visit Tasmania, being October through to end of November and then March to the end of May. Unless you are looking for cold wet weather with snow.

If anyone on the forum needs a camping spot whilst in the south, PM me.

[numpty]

Nice work Jason. It really looks the goods, although it should have blue wheels;)

One day :( I hope to have mine going again. And I agree with CC, as I want mine to have the Capstan and rear PTO also.

[newhue]

Numtpy yes it should have blue wheels and blue seats, previous owner couldn't hack the blue so that's what came about. I believe later export 107's had grey wheels but not mine. It even says blue on the sales docket.

You know what that means though, it should have one of those ugly little boy blue tilts, yuk. Can't make sense of LR's thinking there. I would prefer khaki wheel, seats and tilt. And for tan, well that didn't exist in 55

[Sleepy]

I never realised they had a blue tilt. The blue wheels dont look too bad but not sure about blue canvas.
Found this photo - is this the right blue? Bluuurrrrk:p
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/11/78.jpg

[newhue]

That's it....unfortunately.

If the tilt was the same as the wheels it would be happy days. Just don't think I could live driving down the road with the blue tilt.

good pic sleeps, I haven't seen one in the flesh so to speak, only brochure drawings.

thanks

[Landy Smurf]

the canvas blue is abit to much of a contrast with the body colour

[Avion8]

Thanks CC
yep can't wait to get it on the road and rolling legally. He developed a back fire and some spluttering today, scared the crap out of me when it first went off. Will have to work on that, or reasons why. At least read over Scollops last adventure again.

Hi Jason,

He looks great & I'm sure will give you a face wide smile once sorted. My old 80" developed the same back fire you seem to have. Eventually had to get the RAC to take him to Northam were troubleshooting found that the distributor clamp was loose & that he had become seriously retarded. A quick re-time & tighten and all was well, except also found that the vacuum advance didn't. Still waiting for the new vacuum unit to arrive from the Distributor Doctor in the UK.

Oh and if you think the 2ltr is slow, try the 1600?

Nigel

[newhue]

the canvas blue is abit to much of a contrast with the body colour

and that's with an overcast sky, imagine a sunny day........ooooh big call

[newhue]

Hi Jason,

He looks great & I'm sure will give you a face wide smile once sorted. My old 80" developed the same back fire you seem to have. Eventually had to get the RAC to take him to Northam were troubleshooting found that the distributor clamp was loose & that he had become seriously retarded. A quick re-time & tighten and all was well, except also found that the vacuum advance didn't. Still waiting for the new vacuum unit to arrive from the Distributor Doctor in the UK.

Oh and if you think the 2ltr is slow, try the 1600?

Nigel

Retarded:eek: I think some of my mates think I'm that all the time.

I have had your distributor thread in the back of my mind after the back fire. And I have noticed the dizzy turns a little bit, hopefully I am spared from those dealing.
It seems the needle and seat are not working well together so looking around for a carby kit at present. Concluded if I go to the trouble to clean it I may as well replace a few things as well.
Discovered this problem when the the Colonel and I, well mostly, no actually all of, the Colonel has been returning Lucky's electronics back to positive earth. I find it a strange concept positive earth, but it absolutely amazes me a car can run with it's battery in backwards and some of it's wiring hickil-ti pickility. A real testimony of it's simplicity and endurance perhaps.

I have given up on the idea of having it on the road for Xmas, to much work before, and holidaying to be done afterwards. February is more realistic target, but also seems so far away.

[Avion8]

Good luck with the carby rebuild, I had to do that as well, actually Friends Garage in Northam did it with a kit they sourced over east. Interesting going back to positive earth, any specific reason? I note that mine is negative earth, & think it gives the old Land Rover a negative attitude towards many things.

I was going to get the rear springs hot reset before Christmas to cure his list (tilt) to starboard. But with all the bush fires around these parts don't want him immobilized in the shed if one should blow through. At least we can race away at present with a little lean - works well for fast right hand bends with negative camber - & very interesting for the left hand bends. All the best for Christmas & holidays.

Nigel

[newhue]

Amazing what a photo hides, I would have never picked that up on your 80 Nigel. Perhaps your old truck would be good around the speedway track.
It's been that long I can't recall which way they go, so you might have to go in reverse. A bit like these electrical systems. There was no real reason to go back, just they way it was intended I guess. I had no idea, but was the first thing pointed out when we were fixing the horn. It seems in my case it was a matter of just spinning the battery around and figuring out the junction box from the wiring diagram in the manual. I think due to the wires almost unidentifiable by their colours the uncle may have just did what worked. It took a little figuring with the volt meter but all done in a hour or two. By the way the horn improved by cleaning the contact in the steering wheel, but did seem to also get better with positive earth.

Going on Lucky's history, I'd strongly recommend keep the 80 mobile when bush fires are around.