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subtle_fool
12th September 2011, 07:01 AM
Hiya, just trying to pick the brains of all you knowledgable folk.

Apologies if this has already been covered, read through all the threads and didn't come across it.

Essentially if you plugged the diff's gearbox etc from a 109'' across to an 88'' using the 88'' drivetrain would this work?

Also would a 109'' pickup cab be a direct bolt onto an 88'' hardtop body?



Cheers for any responses,

Tim J.

JDNSW
12th September 2011, 07:14 AM
Hiya, just trying to pick the brains of all you knowledgable folk.

Apologies if this has already been covered, read through all the threads and didn't come across it.

Essentially if you plugged the diff's gearbox etc from a 109'' across to an 88'' using the 88'' drivetrain would this work?

Also would a 109'' pickup cab be a direct bolt onto an 88'' hardtop body?



Cheers for any responses,

Tim J.

The answer is, sort of! It depends largely on what you mean by "diff". The actual diff centre is identical, except for late Series 2a 109s fitted with Salisbury rear axles. But if you are talking about the whole axle assembly, there are a couple of problems. Firstly, the 88 has the rear springs under the chassis, the 109 has them outside, so the spring pads on the axle housing are different, as are the shock absorber mounts. Also, the 109 has 11" brakes, the 88 has 10" brakes. The larger brakes can be used on the 88, (but at the back would have to be swapped onto the 88 axle housing) and will improve braking, but you need the master cylinder off the 109 as well.

The gearbox and transfer case are the same.

The cab is the same, but you need an additional filler panel - on the 109 the rear wall of the cab sits on the bulkhead at the front of the rear body, but this is further forward on the 88 and the cab overlaps the tray, the gap being filled by a galvanised steel panel. These seem to be a bit hard to find - I did have one but sold it several years ago.

Hope this helps,

John

subtle_fool
12th September 2011, 08:25 AM
Cheers for that! Answered my question perfectly.

Might have to make up my own filler plate for the cab - looks like the OEM ones are hard to come by or overpriced.

Just to clarify, the rear axle case will be the only issue due to mounting points for springs, absorbers and bump stops (internal components will be the same?). While the front axle/diff assembly should be a direct swap?


Cheers again, Tim J.

JDNSW
12th September 2011, 12:53 PM
Cheers for that! Answered my question perfectly.

Might have to make up my own filler plate for the cab - looks like the OEM ones are hard to come by or overpriced.

Just to clarify, the rear axle case will be the only issue due to mounting points for springs, absorbers and bump stops (internal components will be the same?). While the front axle/diff assembly should be a direct swap?


Cheers again, Tim J.

Front is the same except for the brakes. Rear has different spring and shock absorber mounts and brakes (unless it is a Salisbury, in which case nothing is the same except the hubs!). However, there is nothing to stop you swapping all your new internals to the old axle housing.

John

NiteMare
13th September 2011, 06:48 PM
Cheers for that! Answered my question perfectly.

Might have to make up my own filler plate for the cab - looks like the OEM ones are hard to come by or overpriced.

Just to clarify, the rear axle case will be the only issue due to mounting points for springs, absorbers and bump stops (internal components will be the same?). While the front axle/diff assembly should be a direct swap?


Cheers again, Tim J.

there is also a small bracket (for the 88") that goes from the spare wheel mount in the tub to the bottom of the cab rear panel (this is listed in the parts book , you could make your own substitute), this makes a massive difference in the security/noise of the cab when travelling over rough ground, i drove my truckcab for about a year without that stay and was very surprised at the noise difference (even on tarmac) once i finally found one, it stops the rear of the cab bouncing on the tub...

there is also two different filler plates, one has small tubes/spacers welded to it to take up the gap under the cab and allow you to solidly bolt it down..

the second doesn't have these spacers intregrally (no idea why) and usually they have vanished so you'll need to make your own out of suitable steel tube