130 Dual cab for me

[strangy]

Hi all. Just bought a 95 130 dual cab! I am a regular but usually in the D2 and Technical chat.
Needs all new glass and a head gasket. Piccys coming next week when it gets to Alice.!

A few questions for those who know please?

Are there any particular issues with the 130 body I need to be aware of?
I have read a few threads about rear airbags, are these airbags a replacement for the springs or are they helpers?
What engine mods have folks with 300tdi's done that work well and what can I expect to get happily out of 300tdi?

This wil end up a significant resto and if SWMBO likes it, may replace the D2. So thinking Ascroft gear for the driveline upgrade. Would appreciate any suspension suggestions for good articulation and ride.

Any thoughts appreciated.


cheers

[Fluids]

Congratulations Strangy ... I'd like a 130, but if I sell the D2a and get one, SWMBO will want a car of her own ... she's not a 130 lover as her day drive ... but she loves the D2.

... then I have to buy run & register a second car :(

So, D2 for now ...

[The ho har's]

congatulations to you:)

On airbags..yes helpers...we have them inside the bigger outer spring as we carry maximum load when traveling with the camper on board, 130's have duel rear springs so it is common to take the smaller inner spring out and replace with an airbag which can be pumped up according to load weight:)

Mrs hh:angel:

[Gumnut]

Congratulations, and welcome to the proud band of 95 130 owners!

Body issues may include water leaks around windscreen/firewall, door seals, door hinges (especially front, and can be a bugger to replace), plastic bits in door trims including handles.

I'm pretty happy with mine, and especially happy to leave it pretty much bog standard.

Cheers,

Andy

[strangy]

Fluids, I am hoping she likes it, but time will tell.
The D2 has been a fantastic truck, but the 130 (when finished) with a tray camper style fit out is more suitable for what we do now that the boys have grown a bit older.

cheer

[marko66]

Hi All

Good luck with the 130 strangy :) I hope it turns out ti be a good one

Regards Mark

[101 Ron]

I took the inner rear springs and rear sway bar out of mine and never had any issuses with carrying weight.
You can get 10 litres per 100km on a trip lightly loaded and I never got worse than 12 litre per 100 km.
Plastics around dashboard is not the best.
Wiring though chassis , and engine T belt, P gasket, altenator, tappets are bigger issuses.

[wrinklearthur]

Wiring though chassis , are bigger issuses.

Hi Ron

I have an intermittant short in my 110's wiring somewhere, I have not been able to find it and I noticed your comment in that post.
Have you found a problem with the wiring inside the chassis rails and if so, was it due to a poorly wrapped wiring loom?

Cheers Arthur

[Gumnut]

Aahh,
The old intermittent short. I did have one in the engine bay on nearside. As best I recollect, using one of the indicators (forget which one) would either blow a fuse, and/or kill one of the headlights. Some vigorous wire wiggling sort of temporarily fixed the problem for the last five years!

Make good and sure to check the transfer case output flange nuts, and T/C oil level. And talking of gearboxes, give the R380 a birthday and change the oil. Don't use ATF, it's grief all round. Plenty of info here on choices; I use a MTF94 spec, and change regularly, and have no problems.

Andy

[101 Ron]

Hi Ron

I have an intermittant short in my 110's wiring somewhere, I have not been able to find it and I noticed your comment in that post.
Have you found a problem with the wiring inside the chassis rails and if so, was it due to a poorly wrapped wiring loom?

Cheers Arthur

The wiring harness runs inside the chassis tube where it moves around with the bumps and wears though causing a intermittant short.
As posted you can pull and push the harness though the chassis gommet a bit to move the harness to a fresh bit of insulated wire , or find a spare unused wire in the harness and use that for what ever is shorting out.

[SimonM]

We need to start a 1995 130 club:D.

I have the intermittent short as well which I thought I had fixed but a new one has surfaced now blowing the reverse lamp rather than the brake lights.

Enjoy the 130.

[Huwmungus]

I took the inner rear springs and rear sway bar out of mine and never had any issuses with carrying weight.
You can get 10 litres per 100km on a trip lightly loaded and I never got worse than 12 litre per 100 km.
Plastics around dashboard is not the best.
Wiring though chassis , and engine T belt, P gasket, altenator, tappets are bigger issuses.

Wow - good economy. I never get better than 12L/100 out of mine and on a trip towing a Camper trailer or Jayco Hawk Van get anything from 14-17 L/100. And don't even start me with headwinds when towing!! (maybe I have an issue somewhere? - or a heavier right foot than some - although I need it as performance isn't the best, which may lead back to having an issue?)You can just stretch it to 115km/h(on GPS - 130odd on speedo)on a long flat stretch with no wind.

Mine's a 97 model just about to click over 300k - I've owned for 5 years and 60K. Just the usual problems, wheel bearings, a new head & radiator at 270K, a seized alternator (at Kings canyon of all places!), Dodgy A/C that needs re-gas every summer, water leak onto passengers feet, bad sealing doors. Otherwise a generally relliable vehicle that is up to a range of tasks. A limited slip Diff (or Locker) would be handy at times. I have left my suspension std but the airbag thing could be an idea as I find if I'm running round empty a bit, I lower the rear tyres pressures to the low 30's (psi) to soak up some of the bumps.

Enjoy

[SimonM]

Wow - good economy. I never get better than 12L/100 out of mine and on a trip towing a Camper trailer or Jayco Hawk Van get anything from 14-17 L/100. And don't even start me with headwinds when towing!! (maybe I have an issue somewhere? - or a heavier right foot than some - although I need it as performance isn't the best, which may lead back to having an issue?)You can just stretch it to 115km/h(on GPS - 130odd on speedo)on a long flat stretch with no wind.


On my last trip I averaged around 10l/100k, worst was mid 12's when on some sandy tracks and best low 9's. That was with 3 adults, a bub and fully loaded, though I try to keep things light.

[jasonedu]

i get between 9 and 10l/100km in my 130 around Canberra and very happy with that.

the worst was about 14l/100km towing a fully loaded troopy and camper trailer. But even that was better than the troopy would get if it was running :p

[zwitter]

Hi 130 owners

Mine is a 1996
Usual problems with water leaking in through door seals and vents down the fire wall. And ofter oil leaks too but not right now! I also have an issue with the AC it seems to ice up and fill with water internally then sloshes. All the rubber seals on the glass is rough and perished on the outside but not leaking so has stayed. Windscreen is scratched on the outside and would love a new one. I replaced the lower door seals on rear doors with the door mounted versions as the kids trashed the body mounted ones. I fitted mats on the floor and aluminium strips at the door edge to hold them down.
Replaced tape player with a better unit that plays USB and iPod. 12" sub under back seat, MUD dash with CB mounted. Second interior light in the back, replaced sagging interior roof lining.
I have Diesel Gas on mine and also put a Disco transfer case with the 1:222 gears and it will now cruise at 110 km/ hr at 2600 rpm and with lots of sound insulation can actually have a conversation or listen to music. It is a very drivable vehicle like this.
I want cruise control some time and a few other creature comforts.

I replaced shockies with Boge but left all the springs standard. Have had 1.7 tonnes of pavers in the back only had to pump tyres up a lot. Also towed 3 + tonnes no problem. Get 10.xx litres per 100 k open road and 12 round town. Have had 9s on long trips if take it easy.

I love my 130!

Polishing. It this weekend..... A big job


James

[101 Ron]

Wow - good economy. I never get better than 12L/100 out of mine and on a trip towing a Camper trailer or Jayco Hawk Van get anything from 14-17 L/100. And don't even start me with headwinds when towing!! (maybe I have an issue somewhere? - or a heavier right foot than some - although I need it as performance isn't the best, which may lead back to having an issue?)You can just stretch it to 115km/h(on GPS - 130odd on speedo)on a long flat stretch with no wind.

Mine's a 97 model just about to click over 300k - I've owned for 5 years and 60K. Just the usual problems, wheel bearings, a new head & radiator at 270K, a seized alternator (at Kings canyon of all places!), Dodgy A/C that needs re-gas every summer, water leak onto passengers feet, bad sealing doors. Otherwise a generally relliable vehicle that is up to a range of tasks. A limited slip Diff (or Locker) would be handy at times. I have left my suspension std but the airbag thing could be an idea as I find if I'm running round empty a bit, I lower the rear tyres pressures to the low 30's (psi) to soak up some of the bumps.

Enjoy

Ranga purchased my 130 and is about to do the big lap towing a van.
( it will be interesting to see how he goes )
It was tight as a drum and had 140ks on it.
I found towing1.5 tonnes around the higher parts of the great divide I never got worse than 12 per 100, but the 300 TDI wasnt too happy with the load and if you had a head wind on flat going 100 kph was difficult to maintain.
My 130 had never been cooked and I treaded it well for the 80 ooo ks I had it.
I lot of people turn up the fuel and boost and this will effect the fuel burn.
I loved the body style of the 130 and the TDI being one of the last non electronic diesels(so i was able to fix its problems).
A bigger motor and heavier running gear would have made it perfect and is one of the reasons i ended up selling it.
My 101 landy has taken over and the flexiable V8 on LPG is so much easier to live with in terms of power delivery and its tuff as nails compared with the other rover products.
I wished they released the V8 defenders in this country.
Two out standing things of the 300 TDI defender is supension, steering and handling with a decent payload to boot.
Ron

[strangy]

After 300ks of dirt and 200 of sealed roads the 130 arrived home safely. The D2 pulled it very well.

Wife just looks at me, (the way Mum used to look at me when I was boy) and says ..."I trust you.....there must be things I cant see":lol2:

I think the rear window will be the hardest things to get easily to Alice.
Drivers side front and rear doors are badly dented and I may replace them.
No rust at all!!! (benefit of a desert car)
I have a full set of suspension bushes coming which will start off the resto. Body and tray off over the next few months and go from there.

Anyway here are some pics.

cheers

[rainman]

I've owned a 110 Tdi single cab for 11 years and just about completed a restoration on a '95 130 dual cab (because the dog needed a seat of his own apparently :angel:). Yell if you need any advice!

Tdi rocks,
James.

[wally]

Well done Strangy. I've bought a 130 project also. They should keep us busy. Where did you come across yours?

[strangy]

This one came out of a cattle station about 500kms nw of Alice. Saw it when I was in for a job and made the offer, the rest is history.

cheers

[oneten85]

Congrats on the 130, Your gonna love how versitile they are despite the little imperfection. Mine has never let me down, regular oil and filter changes, keep all your fluids topped up.

A little slower off the mark than the County but she's great on fuel, I mange about 740kms per full tank.

[rick130]

Note that when everyone is quoting mpg's their odo is out something like 7-8% on 235/85's, so add at least 7% to their l/100km to get a truer figure ;)

I average around 11.5-12/100km in my 130 300Tdi.
It gross's out at around 3000kg running 33.3" MT's, bull bar and side brush bars, ladders, conduit and tube on top and the fuel is turned up to the max.
I run at 100-110km/h on the highway and by-ways around here and the speedo and odo are a lot closer to true with the 255/85's.

As Ron did, I've removed the inner rear springs and just run the 330lb/in main springs and no anti-roll bars all round without issue, and as I mentioned above it goes 3000kg over the weigh bridge with all my work gear in it, but some may not like the extra rock and roll.

[strangy]

So a bit of an update on progress or regress depending on your point o view


49764

Definitely a country vehicle.



49765



49766

Tray mount just came off this side

The thing seems bigger without the body! Friend is wondering about his Cruiser chassis strength when looking at this:p

[DeanoH]

Dunno about the shocker mount but obviously a good wire strainer. :D

Deano :)

[strangy]

Cleaned, tray mounts repaired and all painted. Woo hoo, new bushes arrived,

Moved into the shed and the build continues.

Maybe I should get this moved to projects.

50476

[rick130]

FWIW mine came from up your way (ex-BFC) and it still has red dust in it, ten years later ! :eek:

[ugu80]

Hi 130 owners

Mine is a 1996
Usual problems with water leaking in through door seals and vents down the fire wall.
(Not a problem, just lets you know its time to turn the wipers on.)

And often oil leaks too but not right now!
(Auto rust prevention.)

I also have an issue with the AC it seems to ice up and fill with water internally then sloshes.
(AC should never be a problem - open vents = AC on - close vents = AC off.)

Replaced tape player with a better unit that plays USB and iPod.
(Me too.)

Replaced sagging interior roof lining.
(Removed sagging roof lining. The painted metal is much easier to care for.)

I have Diesel Gas on mine and also put a Disco transfer case with the 1:222 gears and it will now cruise at 110 km/ hr at 2600 rpm and with lots of sound insulation can actually have a conversation or listen to music. It is a very drivable vehicle like this.
(Leave the engine standard then it doesn't go fast enough for noise to be a problem.)

I want cruise control some time and a few other creature comforts.
(Buy a Toyota.)

Get 10.xx litres per 100 k open road and 12 round town. Have had 9s on long trips if take it easy.
(Yeah, my speedometer is out too.)

I love my 130!
(I love my 130!)

Polishing. It this weekend..... A big job
(The matt look really suits 130 Defenders.)

...

[redneb72]

Hey Strangy,

This looks as though it is going to be an impressive rebuild! I bought a 130 (TD5 though) about 4 months ago and have been enjoying the projects ever since.

I must say though, I would love to be able to do it to the extent that you are stripping it all the way back and the like. I just dont have the room or the shed at the moment, or the shed time for that fact with 2 x kids under 5 running around my ankles.

Which station did you get it on? I was a copper in Alice for a while and worked up in Yuendumu, Papunya, Ti Tree and Ali Curung. Bloody beautiful country. It truly is!

Cheers,

Ben

[strangy]

FWIW mine came from up your way (ex-BFC) and it still has red dust in it, ten years later ! :eek:

That wouldnt surprise me.

I am amazed at how much has come out of the thing, despite the different angles its been on and numerous pressure washes.:eek:.
My garden bed has been raised a few inches and has a distinct colour change:o

cheers

[strangy]

Hey Strangy,

.......Which station did you get it on? I was a copper in Alice for a while and worked up in Yuendumu, Papunya, Ti Tree and Ali Curung. Bloody beautiful country. It truly is!

Cheers,

Ben

Hi Ben, it came from Willowra Cattle Company.

I decided it was easier to pull it right down and the end result will be exactly what I want.
Just sold my Track Trailer to fund the rest of the rebuild and am having fun sourcing and ordering the "Goodies" to make everything just right.
The plan is to have a new Defender at the end (albeit a 96) which I can just use whenever I want without big repairs, just standard maintanance.

How long ago were you in Central Oz?

Family just love being literally 20 minutes to an hour from some of the best camping and tracks. So easy for a night or a week to get away.

cheers

[redneb72]

Hi Strangy,

Yeah, I remember the Willowra Cattle Company. Didn't have much to do with them as never really got out there.

I loved the area as well, particularly the West Mac's and the like. It was fantastic. I just used to load up the Lolux (which I had before I was introduced to Landies) with my dog, a swag and some cooking gear and head out to Hermannsberg way and camp at creek sides with water. Bloody loved it!

I was in Alice in 1999 to 2001, then Ali Curung from 2001 to 2003. If you want to look at some nice country, then west of Ali Curung is spectacular as well. Also the road up through Murray Downs to Policemans Waterhole, then out through Epenarra Station and west through to Kurundi. Bloody spectacular!

I'd be still in the NT if it wasn't for the young fellas. Loved it! Is there a decent Landie mechanic in Alice now? That would be great if there was!

Do you know any of the boys in blue (Khaki)?

Here are some photos of my time up there working. Like I said, I loved it. There is one of a roll-over we went to where fortunately nobody was injured, my missus out hunting with the local ladies, a TOJO that I found on a station and some wild cats which I shot being cooked for the old people. Bloody tasty too!

Ben

PS - Apologies for overtaking your post with photos! Any dramas let me know and I will take them down.

[strangy]

No worries Ben, khaki changed to blue early this year. Was With Air wing for a couple of years til 07. Still catch up with a few every so often. Many have moved on,

Thanks for the pics.

Cheers

[strangy]

Bit more of an update.

Have the rear all back together with lots of shiny new stuff.
Front diff is on its way back together, but since its 40deg here today (even the Cockatoo has gone quiet), the pool and a coldy have taken the attention for the rest of the day.

53229

Cheers

[rangietragic]

Congratulations Strangy ... I'd like a 130, but if I sell the D2a and get one, SWMBO will want a car of her own ... she's not a 130 lover as her day drive ... but she loves the D2.

... then I have to buy run & register a second car :(

So, D2 for now ...My handbrake would rather drive my 2000 130 dual cab than her d2.:p

[strangy]

So a short update.... After I saw the cataclysm that thrived around Mike_IE recently, I took my time lifting spanners to the project.

Some QT arms sorted the Castor correction and bush stress issues along with Superpro bushes all round. It was cheaper to get the QT arms than to have my swivel housings slotted with the cranked arms a bonus.

Steering box almost as new so new seals there.
Of course all wheel bearings, seals, CVs discs and drive flanges.
A D2 std front diff has replaced the flogged original.

Wheels on tomorrow and out of the shed.
Fuel tank to sort out and then into the body/ painting.

[rick130]

Did those photo's of the tank in that other thread help at all ?

Haven't dropped mine yet to sort the weep from the top seal :angel:

[strangy]

Yes thankyou very helpful. I have to cut and shut about 1.5 inches. Your pictures confirmed my thoughts on the rear and side of the tank.
I would have been too tight without the front pics.

Cheers

[rick130]

So what was yours made for ?

A 110 ?

[strangy]

Seems to be a specific tank for the "extra cab"
Nothing definitive on outrigger dimensions from the Chassis production dimensions I have on hand . But that is just the info from the Rave CD.
According that info and LRA not a 110 tank.
I haven't pushed LRA any further. I still wonder if it was a stuff up, hence it sitting on the shelf for years.

I should grab a pic before I cut it.

[VladTepes]

Congratulations ! I miss mine already and it hasn't gone to it's new owner yet....

[Sitec]

Another congrats from me! And good work on the rebuild. All these 10lt/100km.... That went out the window for me when the roof rack and 285's went on! So, wtf does SWMBO mean?? And Gumnut, how'd ya know that there's 95 of us driving 130's?.
Here's my 10 cents worth, full air on the back then you can find a site, fit the legs to your camp body, pull,the pins, hit the 'down' button and go touring without the box on the back.. The wife was right when I bought a roof tent and bolted it to the truck.. "Huh, don't like that, we'll have to fold up every time we move". I ran with it for 2 yrs but admitted defeat eventually. Home made tray done, and camp body nearly finished. I hate it when they are right!
Carry a Turfor winch when away.. Slow but will work off any corner of your vehicle, lighter and cheaper than any electric winch, easily stored in the shed when home, thinking fuel economy here!
Give the front a 2 or 3 inch lift... They sit level then and your camper is level too! Gets rid of that soft front end look!
Build your own rear tray to suit your needs.. Built slide out draw under mine... Carries recovery gear, Tirfor and giant camp table. Just tall enough for cartons of cans too (could say that was planned, but no it wasn't).
And last of all enjoy it! You are one of the elite 95 on here! ;)

Ya gotta love this forum, there's mountains of info on here!! Ttfn!

[rick130]

Another congrats from me! And good work on the rebuild. All these 10lt/100km.... That went out the window for me when the roof rack and 285's went on! So, wtf does SWMBO mean??

[snip]

Ya gotta love this forum, there's mountains of info on here!! Ttfn!

With muddies and a corrected odo/speedo, 10l/100km is Disco territory.

My Tdi averages 11.5-11.8/100km consistently, but it has 255/85's, a bar, winch, roof racks with ladders on top and a wellback loaded up with gear all the time.
I did dead on 10l/100km for one tank on a trip recently without anything in or on it but must have had a tailwind or something, as the other tanks took it back to 11/100km for the entire trip.

Oh, and SWMBO = she who must be obeyed, IIRC it came from 'Rumpole of The Bailey', many, many years ago.

[strangy]

Pic of sill tank and marked out area to cut.

Current length (long side/ outer edge) 1105 mm will reduce to 960mm after cutting. Approx 9 litres lost. Leaves me approx 55 litres Will calculate it accurately later.

[rick130]

I'll measure mine again in the morning.

[rick130]

Strange, mines 1340mm down the long side ???

[strangy]

Strange, mines 1340mm down the long side ???

Hmm, from the pics yours has a cutout area to clear the first out rigger.
Out of curiosity do you have a length from the front of the cutout to the front of the tank inside length?

How many litres is yours?

[rick130]

Hmm, from the pics yours has a cutout area to clear the first out rigger.
Out of curiosity do you have a length from the front of the cutout to the front of the tank inside length?

How many litres is yours?


The capacity is a little rubbery.

I need a slope from starboard to port on the forecourt, and rake from front to rear.
It's a bugger to fill, you need patience and the right angle on the nozzle, and hold your tongue at the right angle, and... :D

The filler is too horizontal for the first leg, I have to hold the nozzle upside down ata 45* angle to get it to fill, and then the filler is too horizontal where it goes into the top of the tank.
Foaming really slows things down.

After removing the rear inner springs I'm not getting as much in, it maxxes out at around 67l if I'm lucky.

I'll measure the rest of it up for you soon.

[strangy]

Thanks, don't go out of your way to measure. The cut has to be done regardless. It was mainly curiosity.

Cheers

[rick130]

Front of cutout to front of tank is 700mm :D

[Bush65]

Thanks, don't go out of your way to measure. The cut has to be done regardless. It was mainly curiosity.

Cheers
Have you looked at Roger's drawings for left and right sill tanks.

For your information I have attached them below. They are MS Word format, if you can't open them, I can convert to pdf.

[strangy]

Have you looked at Roger's drawings for left and right sill tanks.

For your information I have attached them below. They are MS Word format, if you can't open them, I can convert to pdf.

No I haven't. Interested to see them. Can't see any attachment.

[Bush65]

No I haven't. Interested to see them. Can't see any attachment.
I can't understand why you can't see the 2 word files that I attached to my previous post. Of course if you mean you can't see the picture, that is because you have to download the attached word file and open the file in word or another word processor that can open *.doc files and display imbedded images (not wordpad).

In case there is some other reason why you can't see the attachments, I have converted the drawing of the driver side sill tank below. This is the 2nd page of the attached doc file. On the 1st page Roger says:
Amendments to Original Drawings.


Overall width of tank reduced from 360mm to 350mm following discovery that Defenders vary somewhat in this dimension. No trouble has been experienced since the width was altered to 350mm.



The 3/8” BSP air vent was found to be inadequate and a second one (same size) should be fitted at the front of the tank. These should be connected via a ‘T’ piece (3/8 x 3/8 x ¾) with a ¾” pipe T’ed into the existing air breather line and taking care to avoid low spots.
The 50mm dia. Inlet tube could be reduced to 38mm if desired.
Use 900 Female Elbow in lieu of straight union depending on desired direction of outlet pipe.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/308.jpg

[strangy]

Thanks, using the iPhone at the moment, so could be that.

[strangy]

Finally found a bit more time to get into the 130 and after some external dramas is progressing well now.

I wanted to coat the insides of the chassis rails and cross members to protect agianst rust so I grabbed the trusty Schutz Gun and thought I would be a clever boy and extend the 50cm extension, (which couldnt reach all of the internals without drilling several extra holes per rail) to 500cm.
I used tape on all the holes around the chassis to ensure I didnt coat the garage floor and other things from wayward spray.
I heated the nylon tube end and crimped it over then used some mig wire to put 6 fine holes around the circumference to make a nice spray pattern and thought I would and simply feed the tube down the chassis, pull the trigger and pull the tube out slowly, succesfully coating the chassis inside with chassis black paint.........hmmm, too much tube length, paint starts to fill tube and air pressure back through siphon tube and can pressurises and then... spend an hour with a rag and can of thinners cleaning the results.
New plan. Go see the local Fire Ext people, aquire an old water fire ext and use that.
58801
Put 2 litres of Chassis black into the Ext bottle (9lt capacity) and replace valve, use compressed air to 15 psi and use the previously failed nozzle ext. Sensational results with the entire chassis heavily coated throughout.

58802
About 250ml retrieved/ lost from chassis drain hioles and the tape from all holes was coated.

I finally cut and shut the LRA Aux tank to fit the 130 DC and pressure test all came up good.
A quick unplanned visit to Adelaide found me adding a 120 litre tank also. Sedimenter and filter for each tank have been installed.
Bringing me to about 180 in total
58803
The Chassis is now rolling and the drivetrain complete. Shocks and springs are not yet done as I havnt 100% decided on which powerplant yet.

58808
Swaybar spacer brackets have been fabbed and awaiting the new sway bar bushes for fitting, as 50mm lift is happening anyway.

Having decided to paint it Ford Burnt Orange, I started having second thoughts when I saw an old FJ Cruiser in it.
I started to think I might get a little tired of it and more importantly it just didnt seem to work.
I started to check out some "toned down" versions of the Burnt Orange.
Long story short the choice was narrowed to either Ford Yellow Ochre (XY GT) or Camel Yellow/Sandglow
after a spray pak of both were made up at Super cheap the decision was made and the 130 will be Camel Yellow aka Sandglow, code LRC361 http://www.google.com.au/imgres?q=camel+yellow+defender&start=129&hl=en&sa=X&rlz=1R2ACAW_en&biw=1366&bih=542&tbm=isch&tbnid=UR0tV8yqvucPBM:&imgrefurl=http://www.landroverclub.net/Club/HTML/IndexCamel.htm&docid=WK0o4YmPqtlSGM&imgurl=http://www.landroverclub.net/Club/Camel/Mongolia97_110.jpg&w=400&h=242&ei=vedjUeSTO-aBiQedzoHIAw&zoom=1&iact=rc&page=6&tbnh=133&tbnw=209&ndsp=28&ved=1t:429,r:30,s:100,i:94&tx=100&ty=56 , the paint is in the shed and should have first coat in about a week.

Now I probably have to change its nickname from "Agent Orange" to..

Cheers

[chewy7]

That looks amazing! Can't wait to see the finished product! :)

[strangy]

I had few days off and it was time to splash some paint around.


60131


I am really happy with final colour choice.
Which is just as well, because I wasn't going to do it twice. I still have the bonnet & guards to do, along with seat boxes.

Finally start to put the pieces back on the chassis this week.

[camo29]

Hi I'm new to land rovers but like the look of the 130 and have been told they are good off/on road. I'm looking at a 2005 TD5 and a 2008 2.4l. I know the Ford engine is good in the Transit van. How do they go in the 130. What's the best of the two.
Thanks Camo.

[strangy]

Hi I'm new to land rovers but like the look of the 130 and have been told they are good off/on road. I'm looking at a 2005 TD5 and a 2008 2.4l. I know the Ford engine is good in the Transit van. How do they go in the 130. What's the best of the two.
Thanks Camo.

Hi and welcome.

I can't comment on the 2.4. & 2.2 motors as I havnt driven them. The 6 speed seems to be a good box behind either from most reports.
A search ( search button on the bottom left of the page) through the forum specifically on the 2.4 will bring some good info.

A full / max weight 130 wont set any records for speed but regardless of factory engine choice will get on with the job on and off road, without drama.

The TD5 is a fantastic motor which responds well to a remap and punches well above its capacity.
The TD5 was built with + 500,000 km life in mind and based on my own experience, they will easily achieve this and more.

Like anything, good maintenance/ history will help sort the bad from the good.

The newer vehicle has some options you may find better. Such as the 6 speed and better A/C.

[strangy]

Starting to be more recognisable now.

Spent a bit of time measuring and adjusting to get it all plumb according to the doors etc.


60633

You may be able to see the "doubler" plate with captive nuts I had to make. The original Nutserts had cracked around the sheet metal.



60634

I will have to get the proper camera out soon because the phone just can't seem to show true colour.

[chewy7]

How is it coming along now mate? Any more pics? :)

[strangy]

A little more to ad since last posts.

As the Defender is notorious for leaks I paid careful attention where the leaks in mine were before pulling it apart completely.

I found it odd the places LR didn't bother to put sealant and here are some of my efforts to assemble a non leaking Defer.

The rear Bulkhead panels had dust and water streaming in around the skin, it also had nearly 1/2 inch gaps between the floor and side panels too, so used body sealer at those points and fitted simple grommet plugs if I ever need to easily wash it out.

66191

66192


I removed all the old sealer from the roof and gutters and then resealed the seams. There were several areas that were simply missed from the factory.
Particularly where the pinchweld frame attaches to the roof.

66193

My front bulkhead leaked through this seam after the main EPDM foam seal became tired. Seam sealer and obviously a new EPDM foam seal has that permanently sorted.

66195

Lots of gaps in the front bulkhead were found with a torch and hose so lots of extra sealer applications particularly around the foot wells.
Body deadener was applied to the majority of the engine side of the front bulkhead and inside of the rear bulkhead. This will help a little with noise but will also get into any remaining leaky seams.

66196

As the main Cab panels are assembled, I have now also fish oiled all the internal channels etc.

I thought prepping the front guards would cause the most headaches, but they have come up great and it is the doors that threatened my sanity.

The house move has played havoc with every aspect of life at the moment,
with the 130 getting least attention. But, having been forced to "clean up" it has helped me get a lot of "surplus to requirements" gear in a pile to sell off. I didn't realise just how much stuff I accumulated.
Now the remaining panels are all taking up space in the garage and beckoning re fit as soon as time allows.

The original plan for mid August failed and then end of Sept is now evolving into before Christmas......;)

[chewy7]

Looking good!
Have you considered adding chassis black on the engine bay side of the bulk head? And also all the under-neath panels facing the ground?

I'll be doing that to mine, hopefully cut out alot of noise with that.

[strangy]

Looking good!
Have you considered adding chassis black on the engine bay side of the bulk head? And also all the under-neath panels facing the ground?

I'll be doing that to mine, hopefully cut out alot of noise with that.

Not chassis black but Body Deadener front and rear bulkheads and underside all floor panels.
The colour coat is over the top of this giving a "stippled" finish.

[chewy7]

Not chassis black but Body Deadener front and rear bulkheads and underside all floor panels.
The colour coat is over the top of this giving a "stippled" finish.

That's a good idea! I gotta do that for mine too!

[strangy]

So an overdue update.
After much reading/discussion and almost agonising til the very last moment, I reached an engine decision with a TD5 and auto being the choice.
Thanks to Marko66 for contacts on a 4BD1 but I just couldn't bring all the bits together the way I wanted an Isuzu setup in my time and budget.:(

Even as I had a very low km Td5 and auto on hand the decision was still tough.

So the 300tdi long range tank came out and was swapped with TD5 unit.
Some said this couldn't be done but it was very straight forward.
The triangular gusset ( fuel tank bracket) in the tdi chassis had to be removed and the front mount bracket on the cross member also.
A reciprocating saw made fast and light work of the job with quick clean up with flap disc. Apparently the TD5 chassis has no gusset but I wanted to ensure the rear cross member had as much strength as original so welded in a flat gusset to replace the triangular type.
As the TD5 tank sits so close in the cross members I also made up captive nuts for the towbar.
The front cross member then needed to be drilled and some big washers fitted to spread the load.
The tank came with bolts per fitted with a long strip of steel to thread through the cross member and allow the nuts to be fitted and tightened.
All up it took 2 hrs including a coat of paint on the tank. But ... I had no body work in the way.


69908


Surprisingly the fuel pump etc wiring from the donor D2 fits up perfectly to the 130. I know I won't be that fortunate with the front section but so far so good and have a chunk of loom to graft in to let me mount all the ECUs in a water proof box under the centre console.:cool:

A new (2nd hand) "minecorp" steel tray is ready for a few mods to the mount brackets to let me fit spare underneath and an access hatch for the fuel pump if ever it's needed.

More pics to come when the tray is sorted.

[rainman]

Watching with interest. Keep up the good work Strangy!

James.

[Gillie]

Fantastic Job!

[strangy]

So today was psychological win for the rebuild. With the tray mods and paint finally completed.
72670


72671


I have modded the tray to accept the fuel fill points to the opposite side and the rear section and mounts to fit the spare underneath. It's pretty easy to see the mod for fuel pump access hatch. 40+ temps and then consistent (welcome) rain destroyed the schedule for welding and painting outside. Lots of smaller tedious jobs have been completed and next few days off will see the tray fitted and the engine and box go in.T


The paint on the tray is just "septone" charcoal hammertone.
Its pretty tough stuff and will be easy to tidy up as work and years take their toll.

[strangy]

I managed to get a good run the last few days off and made some significant progress fitting the tray.

73218

Engine given the usual checks, oil pump bolt, new front and rear seals, injector harness, injector seals and washers, fuel reg and rocker cover gasket. Inspection with the boroscope also revealed a motor in near new cond. As expected for 49 km.:)


73221

The transmission too was in the same condition with new seals and an Ashcroft HD Torque Converter fitted also. Then mated to the motor.


73222

Original engine chassis mounts were grafted in from a wrecked TD5Defer and the motor & box went in perfectly.
The defer gearbox bracket and mount are different to the D2 but simply swap over and bolt up.

73225

The new Harmonic Balancer should arrive this week and next lot of days off will see the Transfer Case sorted and driveline connected.
Then comes the wiring and modifications to the Air Con.

[rar110]

It's a great way to get to know every inch of your defender. Well done Mark, it's looking good.

But I suggest you think about noise insulation for the engine side of the firewall while it's still very accessible. The TD5 is not as noise as the Isuzu so may not be necessary.

[strangy]

Yes it is a good idea.
I have a few meters of insulation/ heat shield from Clark Rubber to use and I am waiting on a sample of another type to decide which one will be best in that spot.

[rar110]

Yes it is a good idea. I have a few meters of insulation/ heat shield from Clark Rubber to use and I am waiting on a sample of another type to decide which one will be best in that spot.

Have a look at road kill distributed by autobarn.

Alt have a look at the Isuzu thread on noise insulation. I'm not sure if Clarke rubber would have hi density foam sound barrier.

[Gillie]

After much research on this subject I did the front interior of my 130 yesterday. If I was to dynomat it all it would of cost $2k if I did it as per their website. My biggest problem is heat. as a cheap solution I got hold of some Off cuts of e-therm which is an aluminum blanket with foam in between that is used under sheets of iron when building a house. They have website and have many different products available. $15 worth of 50mm aluminum foil tape and 12hrs later the front was done. I was pretty lucky as I had carpet to use as a template. What's it like? I don' know yet. This week will tell. I don't think it is any quieter.

[strangy]

Can't believe it was Feb I last updated this.
Life and work have taken their toll on the schedule. I Won't bore you with the details, sometimes you just have to stop and enjoy the little things.


82162

Whipped the engine back out to do the heat shield.

82163


So... Wiring from the D2 into the Defender has been a hoot?!
With what's left of the hair now turning grey, I have managed to get it all in and the ECUs' communicating as they should.
Put this into the Defer. 10 times more than what was there. (Well lots anyway)
Clever ideas outsmarted myself on 2 attempts with the engine ECU location before the right spot was found.


82165

This spot didn't work.
I had to splice a dozen or so wires from the fuse box in order for it locate in a suitable spot, but was happy to not have to modify any of the loom for low voltage ECU wires.

Blinker and Parking light wires needed to be extended 12" (30cm approx) to fit.
Guards are on, chequer plate etc.

[moodog]

congatulations to you:)

On airbags..yes helpers...we have them inside the bigger outer spring as we carry maximum load when traveling with the camper on board, 130's have duel rear springs so it is common to take the smaller inner spring out and replace with an airbag which can be pumped up according to load weight:)

Mrs hh:angel:

I have a 130 2.4 twin cab i have airbags inside the spring i also have a slide on camper on they work well for me.

[strangy]

A few more pics coming, everything including the Defender is in transit/storage to my new place. Actually its an old place but new for us.;)

I haven't documented too much of the technical bits of the build because much of it has been done very well by others during their project build up.
I am going to provide more info around the Auto conversion and personal mods when I get settled in.

After talking to few folks, I know I'm one of many to fit an auto and one of a few to have the electronic ZF.
It seems most have used the "Compushift" option to make the ZF electronic box happy.
To my knowledge nobody has posted anything on using the D2 electrics into a Defender to make it all work,:eek: so I'll post what I've done for anyone interested or inclined towards this option.

But if you are waiting for info which may help you make a decision,.......a spoiler for anyone contemplating using the D2 electrics rather than the "Compushift".......IMO unless you have the donor D2 including the BCU, SLABS, ECU, EATECU and instrument pack, don't bother and just stump for the Compushift. :cool:

[strangy]

Hopefully the only time the 130 ends up on a flatbed;)

Relocated to the new premises at last!



83321




83322

[Disco Muppet]

**** yeah.
Td5 nightmare wiring aside, I'm jealous!
Might be shoe-horning a Td5 into something soonish so a good thread :)
Won't be auto though :) Mrs thinks they're for sooks! :( :p

[strangy]

**** yeah.
Td5 nightmare wiring aside, I'm jealous!
Might be shoe-horning a Td5 into something soonish so a good thread :)
Won't be auto though :) Mrs thinks they're for sooks! :( :p

Sooks?? hmm, looking at the heated seats about to go in she may be right.:p

[strangy]

So 14 months of nothing but house reno and work.... Finally some time again.
Took most of Friday to locate everything that was packed away and get the dust off.
Not much left to do but its fiddly and time consuming. Planned to start at the front and work to the rear, beginning with the trans cooler and then the AC kit I bought from Peter last year. I acquired a late model TD5/TDci condenser mount and fitted it up easily as I also have the longer nose assembly. Got pretty excited unpacking the kit even though I knew a few bits werent there when I bought it.
The condenser confused me for a moment until I realised it was for the early TD5 and should be mounted between the radiator and IC.- no probs, whip off the IC and bolt it up eh? ..and thats when the problems began.
Since I converted the show to an auto I mounted the trans cooler beneath the IC (as in D2 donor )
104370
Knowing I would need a custom IC if I wanted something bigger, I opted for a later IC from the Puma which is significantly thicker than the earlier TD5 unit.
The thicker IC, even though a factory item, wont allow the Condenser to be fitted up as planned.
So the lack of room with bigger inrtecoolers on early AC model TD5s includes the later factory coolers too.
Thought id just make up some new brackets and hang the condenser on the later mount frame in front of everything as per later models- doesnt fit and fouls the cross member, same if I use the older style x braces from the 300tdi.
So packed up everything and now to source a new later model condenser.
At least satisfied with the trans cooler:p

104371

One new condenser for early Td5 coming up in the markets.

Apart from the extraordinary expensive units from LR is there an after market condenser which fits in the late Defender mounts?

[strangy]

Fitted SLABS, BCU and auto ECU in the centre section of the seat box using the modified D2 brackets. I fitted the C1600 speedo correction unit here also. These are now nice and high and fit well under the console.
I ran an extra earth wire to the ECUs direct from the battery to ensure a good circuit.

New brackets have been made to mount the D2 binnacle. I'm bending up a new binnacle housing to mimic the original but with some extra width to accommodate the D2 binnacle switches. These switches are for Driving lights, light bar, winch "in and out" and of course the original Cruise Control.

Hooked up power and was very happy to see the dash light up and ECUs communicating with Nanocom.
Turned the key and nothing....
Engine immobilised. New battery in fob still nothing - fob is dead.
Nanocom is communicating so I extract EKA code and follow sequence. Horns beep to say EKA isn't accepted.🤔
Seems I have a problem now because with no working fob and a a refused EKA , apparently I'm stuffed.

Hooked up Nancom and disabled the alarm- save settings- immobiser led is now off- turn key...
Woo hoo we have success, try the lights etc, all working.
One happy camper.
Now to neaten up the remaining wiring and fit the head lining and console.
Still have to modify the D2 window regulators and assemble the doors.
Plenty of other things too, but it was well past due for an update.

[strangy]

So late but as promised, some conversion info.

Why fit the D2 electrics into a defender?

At the time the Compushift option plus sourcing the Defender TD5 loom was running into some $3k. This was just for wiring and didnt include the Defender engine ECU.
In my circumstances with a full donor vehicle and my own effort, I achieved (in my opinion) a superior result.:cool:

D2 wiring set up direct benefits-
Engine- Higher power output from standard due to D2 ECU - good range of maps and power upgrade options available for Auto trans models.:twisted:

Auto - Factory settings which don't require me to set up so everything is direct interface as its designed for the TD5
:cool:
Torque Converter lockup in different modes for Hi Lo sport and manual modes etc. I don't know if the Compushift provides this or not.
Simple and cheap replacement of ECU in the event of failure and complete compatability with Nanocom diagnostics.

Other functions.
BCU- Alarm, Central locking, variable intermittent wipers, cruise control, heated seats and power window functions as well as a myriad of other ?creature comforts? all requiring significant time and cost to fit using standard Defender and aftermarket bits. I just enable or disable as desired.

SLABS ECU- essentially irrelevant except for the SLS
This gives the option of fully integrated and controlled Air rear end without the need for additional aftermarket computers.:BigThumb:

So quite simply I gained the numerous D2 features completely integrated and factory compatible that would normally require many separate wiring looms and likewise manufactures gear to retro fit into a Defender.
Arguably the result is more reliable.
The Wiring regardless, is a huge upgrade in quality and reliability to the original 96 Defender wiring.

So whats been removed from the loom?
Wiring to the rear tailgate door i.e wiper, door lock, Number plate light, highmount brake light, demister, fuel flap solenoid and radio signal amplifier.
I have still used the signal amplifier, I just picked up the wire closer to the front.
I have repurposed the rear wiper switch to activate tray/work lights.
ABS pump wires and windscreen heater wires removed.
The modulator wires have been removed and the ABS indictor light wire has been disconnected.
The SRS module has been removed and no lights are on the dash.

Now the bigger mods.
Main fuse/relay box wiring- all extended by around 16" (if you contemplate this it will depend on your box location, mine is front left engine bay)
LH blinker, parker, guard indicator extended around 12"
AC hi/lo pressure switch, Bonnet switch, and inertial switch extended nearly 20"
Accelerator and brake light wiring extended by 10"
Several Earth header points need to be attached.
ABS sensors- the D2 sensors have been replaced with D1 units, I had to fit D1 swivel housings to the front to accommodate - these are necessary for the speedo inputs for the D2 system.
Surprisingly the D2 Fuel Pump, Sender loom is just right for the 130 so no mods required here.
Finally the rear lights need the plugs removed and new ones fitted to suit the generic tray lights, fog and reverse lights.

There are probably 5 rolls of electrical tape used and numerous cable ties, and number of brackets fabricated/modified to mount the main fuse/relay box, ECU's, Internal fuse box (IDM) and instrument pack.
I have had to modify the wiper/indicator mounting bracket for the D2 items also.
Straight forward enough?:confused:

Feel free to PM for chat if seriously contemplating this.
If you are considering this- no donor vehicle = probably easier options
Donor vehicle + Planned major restoration + ability to understand Circuit diagrams and solder well = good result.

[strangy]

Fitted the aux power sockets and covered the rear bulkhead panel.
Slimline sub sits behind this too.



108790



108791

[rar110]

Very neat. It will be an incredible auto 130 tourer, with a lot of new almost new stuff. It should last a while.

[strangy]

Back into it again this weekend and run into some difficulties getting te engine running.
I ordered a new fob and had no trouble synching the key but couldnt get thye thing to start. It would turn over but not fire.
Having spent all day Saturday revising settings and purging the fuel system, having someone elses thoughts helped me confirm my course of action.

This morning had me checking all earth points and ECU, BCU etc settings.
I hot wired the fuel pump straight from a battery just to make sure I wasnt getting a voltage drop. It sounded better than from the truck wiring.
Did the start sequence and got a "fire" intermittently from a cyl.

So from this decided it wasnt ECU related and had to be somehow a fuel issue.
Unplugged all the lines and blew them out with compressed air (did this before fitting nearly 16 months ago) all good.
Pulled the fuel reg and found a small piece of plastic/crud.
Pulled the pump and checked all the terminals and filters were clean.
Plugged all back in again. This time the pump sounded a whole lot better and the thing kicked into life almost immediately.

One happy camper here, as this is the first time the Defer has moved under its own power since the project began!
This motor is exactly as expected for 49k quiet and smooth. The auto is shifting properly (in the carport) and now have a fresh drive to get things fully mobile!

I can keep fitting the interior gear and get cracking on the new dash binnacle.

[strangy]

Some things just make me smile.. and this is one of them:)
Bullbar just arrived this morning.

110260
2nd hand from a panel beater- seems some paint smudges from someone elses car and a scratch is deemed worthy of replacement.
No complaints from me!
Some thinners softened the powdercoating around the scratch and some light polish took care of the rest. I had more marks on my last new bullbar in a day from the carpark than this has. It also came with a new fitting kit!

110261

New filler necks fitted for main and aux tanks and guards and mudflaps on.

110262

Getting closer...

[VladTepes]

New photos ?

[strangy]

Test fit of the new binnacle.
I'm happy with this. It maintains the original Defender binnacle profile and IMO doesn't look too out of place.
The Disco switch blocks give plenty of aux options.
Now to fabricating the gussets and side brackets for the heater controls.

110368

[strangy]

New photos ?
Yes- of new bullbar. The one in previous pics didn't let me fit the longer nose without big mods.

[strangy]

Quick update on the "dash works"
The binnacle shroud is finished and have the Raptor console in.
One of my problems fitting the D2 cluster was the new binnacle made the existing fan controller/air in switch/lever very tight to get to.
I felt the 2speed fan was rubbish anyway so fitted a D1 resistor pack and a D2 rear aircon switch.
Now I have a 4 speed fan. But what to do with lever to open to fresh air.
So I made this.


111722



111723



111724



111725


Using a D2 fresh/recirc motor and modified mech. I attached this to the binnacle bracket.
Sweet - push button air in and a 4 speed blower.

[strangy]

Ive been distracted a little the last few weeks.
Even though the electrics were finished, they actually weren't... Still needed the wiring installed for UHF, Reverse Camera, Trailer brakes, winch and clean forgot about the loom I needed to make for the SLS sensors.:(
While running the winch cables I was thrilled to find the new fuel regulator, thermostat and 2 hoses (all brand new Genuine parts) leaking:censored:
Time and money wasted fixing things which shouldn't even be broken
Air conditioner is now fitted along with the front sound deadening.
Charge circuit from the SC80 to the tray for camper connection has been run which led to my main distraction..

After much searching, thinking, second guessing, looking at finances etc. We have found and purchased a camper.
We had considered most options from a simple aluminium canopy fitted out with water and electrics with awnings and RTT, to the high end Trayons and Travelander offerings.
For our camping/travelling style the first options suited budget but we could see that it would not be long term friendly. Middle of the range options were a significant compromise in quality or features.
The new high end options were IMO simply outside of a realistic budget for the product provided.
So.. we have found a 2nd hand Utility Campers C190 for a reasonable price and I'm happy the last big piece of the project is sorted.
Hopefully it will arrive in Alice within a fortnight and not fall off the truck.;)

Now back to the finishing the battery cradles and getting the power windows into the doors for reassembly.

[strangy]

Funny when things actually end up finished.

Over the pits and registered today without a problem.

The date on my purchase receipt says 16/9/11.
A bit over 12 months of no work while renovating.
1 house sale and relocation, a plethora of family and social celebrations and lamentations and it's done.

New tyres to be
fitted next week and the Aircon gassed.

So how's it drive?
Just love it.
The auto is simply fantastic.
The map is standard and despite the upgraded low stall torque converter, it pulls really well.
Hopefully Jose will answer his PMs / emails soon and sort a mild tune for me.

A couple of brackets to modify on the camper and we should be out on our first trip over the long weekend (Finke desert race)

Rear air bags to fit next which will make the camper load/ unload easier.
Should make for a better ride too.
Currently the Kings progressive rate springs are very good.

Couple of snaps out in the fresh air after a very long time covered up.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/05/43.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/05/44.jpg

[Andy130]

Congrats Strangy ! What an epic build mate. Aside from the rebuild which is itself a huge undertaking, You've gone way further and tackled some issues I wouldn't be game to touch - particularly as electrickery is not one of my strong suits lol.

The pics look amazing - looks like it just rolled off the production line.

Well Done !!

[Don 130]

Well done Strangy, very smart looking truck. Yours makes my '97 130 look very shabby.
Don.

[steveG]

Well done on a great build.
Looks awesome too!!

Steve

[Pedro_The_Swift]

Remember to take the camera to Finke,, [bigrolf]


Very nice Strangy,, [thumbsupbig]

[strangy]

Following the build it is time to feedback on what it's like to live with.

One change needed became readily obvious since the first outing.
With 33" tyres, the Defer 1.4:1 transfer is just way to low geared.
I'm swapping in the D2 transfer over in the coming weeks.
The auto must make a big difference in "off the mark" driving when considering others comments about ratio changes in Defenders.
The D2 case will not be a problem.
The sill fuel tank leaks when full from the poxy sender supplied.
Will fix this when the TC is swapped.
Apart from that..
Nothing but smiles.
I said it before but have to say it again, the auto is just fantastic.

In full travel trim ,camper full 160 lt water and 175lt fuel.
It weighs in at 3370kg
Includes me and swmbo and all food and recovery gear.

The tyres were changed a few days after rego and really happy with those too.
I went Muddies simply because I could.
ToyoMT in 285/75/16


Kimberlys end of May18
and hopefully many more trips to come.

[Witchdoctor]

Very nice work, love the colour.

Dave