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View Full Version : Where for a sub in RRC



bidds
19th September 2011, 11:16 PM
Hi there,

I've removed the A/C from my 1990 RRC and have a fair bit of space where the evaporator and fan motors used to live.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/09/546.jpg

I'm scoping out different ways of installing a sub in the truck and was wondering how it might go in this location?

I'm not into sheer volume, just good bass with any kind of music. The sub I'd put in there is one of the 10" Pioneer low volume units that only needs around a 12 liters.

Would it shake the dash to bits? Sound terrible? Should I just put them in the rear doors and seal them up (I'm also taking out the window glass and winders, so mostly possible). The boot doesn't have any space for a sub as there's a spare wheel and water carrier installed; often there's a dog too.

Any thoughts are greatly appreciated!

superquag
19th September 2011, 11:55 PM
Why ??? - does'nt it get warm in Canberra ? - would have thought with all the hot air from parliament.......;)

bidds
20th September 2011, 05:10 AM
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/09/537.jpg

p38arover
20th September 2011, 08:25 AM
Wouldn't a sub be useless in a convertible?

If not, try the spot opposite the spare wheel. You won't be wanting it for the moulded water tank that fits in there.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/09/536.jpg

bidds
20th September 2011, 02:28 PM
Good point - I'm not too sure about the effectiveness of a sub in an open vehicle - perhaps it'll be a case of needing a bigger one or turning it up?

I was intending to keep the water tank in situ but (if I read you correctly) the rear support for the roll bar may preclude it. Hmmmm.....

pop058
20th September 2011, 03:42 PM
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/09/537.jpg

yuum mee, :cool: more pics please :)

pop058
20th September 2011, 03:49 PM
Wouldn't a sub be useless in a convertible?

If not, try the spot opposite the spare wheel. You won't be wanting it for the moulded water tank that fits in there.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/09/536.jpg

Ron

more info please :)

tks Paul

p38arover
20th September 2011, 04:34 PM
Water tank available from Les Richmond Automotive in Victoria.

http://www.lrautomotive.com.au/contents/en-us/d653.html

PSI250
20th September 2011, 04:44 PM
slimline sub under the front seat a possibility?

bidds
20th September 2011, 07:19 PM
yuum mee, :cool: more pics please :)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/09/526.jpg

It's a *very* cool looking truck. And inspiration for my project.

I've got a 90 RRC and a Td5 D2a. The D2a was my wife's car but it's not a good shopping trolley and now she's in a Jazz, which is brilliant around town. Leaves me with two Landies. Not a 'problem' per se but despite appearances, engines, etc, etc. they fill much the same role in my mind and I was at the point of selling the Rangie, which I really didn't want to do.

I remembered this photo I saw a year or so ago and have just decided to do the same with mine. The roof unbolts; it looks like I'll then just cut/finish the b/c/d pillars and have a roof/roll bar installed. I've no intention of trying to make it weather proof - nice days only.

So I've had great stereo systems before, based around component speakers and a sub for bottom end but haven't done it in an open vehicle, thus the q's about it.

A few fora in the US for folks with Mustangs and Vette's seem to agree that heaps of power overcomes all bass problems when going topless.

Not too keen on a sub under the seat as I use that space for recovery gear. So I'm thinking my two main options are:
1. One or two 8" subs in the rear doors; or
2. One 10" sub in a sealed enclosure in the space where the A/C evaporator was, firing down.

The doors seem easier, just seal the window opening, cut a hole and it's done. I can put the amp(s) for the system in the 'glove box' space.

The 'glove' box location looks pretty daunting: I'm not sure how I'll actually secure the enclosure and I'll have to get creative with the amp, perhaps mount it behind the enclosure. However, it would be largely out of sight and much more elegant.

Not sure about the sound differences between those two locations - opinions?

cheers,

bidds :)

p38arover
20th September 2011, 07:36 PM
Very, very nice!

rogan
20th September 2011, 08:27 PM
Had a Suzuki soft top once. Ran a single 8, then a single 10 and finally a pair of cheap and nasty 12s. The 10" would have been plenty for most but I wanted a bit more whoomph.

Glovebox subwoofers work well. I'd be looking at how I could gets a 10 in there before considering 8s in the doors. You shouldn't get too many rattles from the dash but lets face it that car's not exactly going to be a quiet ride.

p38arover
20th September 2011, 08:38 PM
Are you the same audiophile Rogan who is on RRNET and LandyZone?

bidds
20th September 2011, 09:24 PM
Had a Suzuki soft top once. Ran a single 8, then a single 10 and finally a pair of cheap and nasty 12s. The 10" would have been plenty for most but I wanted a bit more whoomph.

Glovebox subwoofers work well. I'd be looking at how I could gets a 10 in there before considering 8s in the doors. You shouldn't get too many rattles from the dash but lets face it that car's not exactly going to be a quiet ride.

Many thanks! Can you please explain why the glovebox sub is better? Is it a matter of the 10" being better than 8"s or more about the placement?

rogan
21st September 2011, 07:38 AM
I'm on RRnet but not on Landyzone. Used to be on LRonly forums but haven't been there in ages.

Having the sub up front means you can play higher frequencies through it without to much damage to the stage. Subbass gives the thump, and mid bass gives the kick, so by having the sub up front you can load it up with some mid bass without dragging the sound backwards. In quite a few competition cars they'll mount a 10" up front to bolster the mid bass.

I've never had an 8" that's really done it for me. In a soft top, you lose a lot of bass (no real cabin gain) so I think volume output matters. A 10" that will do 300+ rms should be plenty; even if it's inefficient there still should be enough grunt to make a substantial difference. Only issue with dash subs is building the enclosure and mounting it. I would try and mount it under the dash facing down.

Don't go too expensive if you're doing sand or dust driving, and likewise don't use a ported enclosure to keep the business end of the sub free from dust and sand particles

p38arover
21st September 2011, 07:45 AM
I'm on RRnet but not on Landyzone. Used to be on LRonly forums but haven't been there in ages.

Oops! I meant LROnly.

bidds
21st September 2011, 12:24 PM
Awesome info - thanks! Just the sort of info I was hoping for.

I'll go with the glove box option as you suggest - I like the idea of keeping the stage forward while pushing out some higher freqs.

You mention 300wrms for the sub. For simplicities sake, I was going to find a 4 ch amp, with fr/l&r for the splits and then bridge the other two channels for the sub, while running the rear fill speakers from the head unit. I've been hunting around and haven't noticed any cheap, high power amps. There's a jaycar/response unit that's promising and I've had good luck with jaycar stuff before. Are there others you'd recommend?

Cheers!

clubagreenie
21st September 2011, 12:48 PM
I built a custom box for on the floor in the rear footwell, angled the face of the sub towards what would be your back window which reflected back forwards between the headrests. Then tune the sub for the wavelength floor/window/headrests. Gives that bit more volume.

But you need that rear window.

rogan
21st September 2011, 02:15 PM
4x75rms amp should work fine. Those Jaycar amps have a decent reputation from what I've heard.

I had a quick look on ebay, one amp that jumped off the screen is this one:
Digital Designs Amplifier DD SS1 mono 600W@12v!!! perfect working order | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Digital-Designs-Amplifier-DD-SS1-mono-600W-12v-perfect-working-order-/260854145687?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cbc1e6297#ht_500wt_1156)

I have one and they're tiny. Heaps of power which you probably won't need. It's a 2ohm stable mono but makes enough at 4 ohms so would be happy running any sub you throw at it. Worth watching the auction, if you can pick it up under about AU$120 then it's a good buy; not many people have heard of them so maybe the price will stay low. Of course you'd then need a separate amp for your fronts, but you could pick up an old Alpine 35xx series for peanuts if you hunt round. For simplicity a solid 4channel is a good way to go though.