Td5 clutch switch only works when fuse removed. Theories?

[GoldCloverLeaf]

The clutch switch in my 2001 Td5 Defender hasn't worked since i've owned it, i tried replacing the switch but this made no difference.

The other day i was installing a new CD player and i accidently sparked a couple wires (yes my bad - i know better and should have disconnected the battery :wasntme:), i blew a 10AMP fuse in the process, i think it was fuse no 8 from memory.

Anyways, i didnt have any fuses left so i went for a drive to get some, i noticed straight away that the clutch switch was now working ;)

I thought maybe it was a coincidence, or bumped some wires in the dash, but when i replaced the fuse, the clutch switch stopped working again.

The computer has been remapped (not sure by who yet) so i was thinking the clutch switch was disabled on purpose and by removing this particular fuse, this has bypassed this remap command?

Thoughts anyone?

I know some people disengage the clutch switch on purpose but i actually prefer it so would ultimaetly like to get it working again :)

[scott oz]

What's a clutch switch?:angel:

[GoldCloverLeaf]

What's a clutch switch?:angel:

Ah yes should start with the basics for those unaware... the clutch switch is specific to manual Td5 powered landies.

When you dip the clutch, it activates a hydraulic pressure switch... which is attached to the master cylinder. When activated it instantly cuts the engine revs, otherwise the engine 'flares' (revs quickly rise, and rather dramatically) between gear changes.

90% of the time it isnt so much an issue, but when accelerating and upshifting going up a hill it can be annoying, as the engine flares quite badly between changes and it sounds like you don't know how to drive/work the clutch.

[Lionel]

Ah yes should start with the basics for those unaware... the clutch switch is specific to manual Td5 powered landies.

When you dip the clutch, it activates a hydraulic pressure switch... which is attached to the master cylinder. When activated it instantly cuts the engine revs, otherwise the engine 'flares' (revs quickly rise, and rather dramatically) between gear changes.

90% of the time it isnt so much an issue, but when accelerating and upshifting going up a hill it can be annoying, as the engine flares quite badly between changes and it sounds like you don't know how to drive/work the clutch.

This all seems a bit "storm in a teacup" to me. My experience with and without the clutch switch connected has shown that its effect is quite subtle. In no way does it make the vehicle harder to drive - in fact I actually preferred it disconnected. One would have to be rather heavy footed IMHO to have the engine flare excessively without the switch working.

Unfortunately, I can't give any reason why it works with the blown fuse!

Cheers,

Lionel

[GoldCloverLeaf]

This all seems a bit "storm in a teacup" to me. My experience with and without the clutch switch connected has shown that its effect is quite subtle. In no way does it make the vehicle harder to drive - in fact I actually preferred it disconnected. One would have to be rather heavy footed IMHO to have the engine flare excessively without the switch working.

Unfortunately, I can't give any reason why it works with the blown fuse!

Cheers,

Lionel

I have read similar responses on a UK landy forum, but with my example (most likely due to the remapped computer and increased boost pressure), the flare can be quite bad, even if i let the engine start to engine brake before dipping the clutch the revs still rise and take far to long to fall. its almost like the electronic throttle is trying to hold 3000rpm for half a second after lifting off the throttle and dipping the clutch.

Like i said, 90% of the time it's no issue (upshifting at 1500rpm), if i lived in the country i wouldnt bother, but accelerating away from traffic lights, onto freeways, up hills etc on a regular basis it can become tiring, and most likely not good for the pressure plate/clutch... because at times it is not possible to wait for the revs to fall in time to keep momentum going, so you are forced to release the clutch onto an excessively spinning flywheel.

Anyways... i assume the tuner disabled it, probably something to do with avoiding excessive turbo backpressure build up between gear changes, prolonging turbo bearing life or something like that...