twin air tank D4.

[discowhite]

OEM tank modified to fit on the drivers side.
it will be plumbed into the first air tank via an on off valve, but will be fed by my arb compressor. in the event of the OE compressor failing i'll open the valve and turn on the arb,,,thats the plan anyway.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/10/74.jpg

tacked in place, have one more bracket to make, some welding and then paint and air line.


tripple batteries, twin air tanks...what next?? 4 wheel steer?:twisted:

cheers phil

[~Rich~]

Nice work Phil, are the dimensions the same as the standard tank?
Will you also be using it for pumping up tyres quicker as well because it would recover quicker than the standard tank when plumbed up to the ARB compressor with its pressure switch.

[101RRS]

but will be fed by my arb compressor. in the event of the OE compressor failing i'll open the valve and turn on the arb,,,thats the plan anyway.

cheers phil

But the ARB will not be able to get this tank up to the required pressure - max 150psi but more like 120psi - too low. If there is any pressure in the main system it will run back to your new one.

Why not buy a OEM air compressor from the UK for half the price here and turn it into a remote (portable pump) to charge your new tank?

Garry

[discowhite]

Nice work Phil, are the dimensions the same as the standard tank?
Will you also be using it for pumping up tyres quicker as well because it would recover quicker than the standard tank when plumbed up to the ARB compressor with its pressure switch.

it is a standard tank, just had to remove the mounts as they are for the LHS. and yes, it was initially thought of to help the arb compressor.


But the ARB will not be able to get this tank up to the required pressure - max 150psi but more like 120psi - too low. If there is any pressure in the main system it will run back to your new one ( thats what a check valve is for).

Why not buy a OEM air compressor from the UK for half the price here and turn it into a remote (portable pump) to charge your new tank?

Garry

who says my arb is standard and not moidified? anyway ide rather rely on 120psi than zero psi to get me out of trouble.

cheers phil

[bbyer]

who says my ARB is standard and not modified? anyway ide rather rely on 120psi than zero psi to get me out of trouble. cheers phil I have often wondered if one could say thru a Faultmate modify the cut off pressure of the standard LR compressor down to say somewhere between 120 and 150 psi, then with two tanks, one would have a reliable system that would lift all four corners at pretty much the same time and quickly.

The air springs run somewhere between 90 and 140 psi so all would work pretty good with reduced tank pressures but more volume.

Your ARB is an oil free compressor so other than perhaps a moisture question, you already have a pretty good dual system. I am impressed.

[Graeme]

I have often wondered if one could say thru a Faultmate modify the cut off pressure of the standard LR compressor down to say somewhere between 120 and 150 psi
There's no max pressure parameter in Faultmate and LR produced software updates to change the max pressure rather than using whatever diagnostic m/c they use these days to change a parameter.

[TerryO]

Regarding where to find a air compressor that pumps above 150psi. Here is a link to a site that sells a compressor that can supposedly pump up to 300 psi.

Digital Air Compressor (http://www.inawise.com/digitalair.html)

cheers,
Terry

[discowhite]

Regarding where to find a air compressor that pumps above 150psi. Here is a link to a site that sells a compressor that can supposedly pump up to 300 psi.

Digital Air Compressor (http://www.inawise.com/digitalair.html)

cheers,
Terry


Air flow capacity will inflate a standard tyre in 8minutes (P195/65/R15 to 35PSI)
wow! thats mighty quick:eek:......not....
ide like to know how a digital compressor works though?

cheers phil

[outasight]

ide like to know how a digital compressor works though?

cheers phil

You use your fingers Phil:wasntme:

I'm sure there will be an iComp out soon ... :p

Regards,

Les.

[TerryO]

Air flow capacity will inflate a standard tyre in 8minutes (P195/65/R15 to 35PSI)
wow! thats mighty quick:eek:......not....
ide like to know how a digital compressor works though?

cheers phil

Actually my thinking was most people would already have a ARB or similar compressor that would take their sls system up to around 120-150 psi, which from reading in this thread is more then likely not quite enough for full off road extension height, and then top the bags off with this little pump for the extra psi to get them to full extension.

Yes it would be slow but if it does pump up to the required pressure (that normal compressors don't) then it is an additional $60 option for your D3/4's if your stuck off road in the middle of Bum f@#k Idaho and need full extension not just on road height.

Of course the sls system would have to be modified to accept any external compressor pumping up the SLS system in the first place, but not everyone would or could have a second tank and the other mods required to have a system like yours Phil, but there are other simpler options around. Personally I'm looking at buying Gordons kit as that is easy to fit and would do the trick if and when things go wrong. ....;)

cheers,
Terry

[101RRS]

Air flow capacity will inflate a standard tyre in 8minutes (P195/65/R15 to 35PSI)
wow! thats mighty quick:eek:......not....
ide like to know how a digital compressor works though?

cheers phil

We are not talking tyres but suspension - so talking pressure not volume - need to get more than 150psi into the bags.

[bbyer]

As below, the air springs tend to operate under 150 psig as they are not much different from the air springs on highway tractor trailer units whose air brake supply systems tend to run at about 120 to 130 psig.

This is why I think LR should have added a second air tank and reduced the pressure that their compressor runs at; the higher pressure was just to cram more air into a smaller tank volume and not because the air springs required it.

Spring/damper modules, (the four air springs, one on each corner):
Type Guided air spring surrounding twin tube damper, (shock absorber).

Air Spring Normal Operating Pressures:

Front: 800 to 1000 kPa (8.0 to 10.0 bar) (116.0 to 145.0 lbf/in²)

Rear: 500 to 800 kPa (5.0 to 8.0 bar) (72.5 to 116.0 lbf/in²)

Burst pressure: 3500 kPa (35 bar) (507.5 lbf/in²)

Maximum spring pressure - Full bump at gross vehicle weight, approximately 2700 kPa (27 bar) (391.5 lbf/in²)

Air compressor:

Supplied with air drier, electrically switched, pilot operated exhaust valve and double temperature sensors; controlled by ECU. Maximum pressure 1680 kPa (16.8 bar) (243.6 lbf/in²)

Air reservoir:

Working pressure 1750 kPa (17.5 bar) (253.75 lbf/in²) Maximum operating pressure 2300 kPa (23 bar) (333.5 lbf/in²)
Volume 9 litres (0.31 cu.ft)

[TerryO]

I agree Pete a second tank would be a much better option but for most people it is not an easy one. Finding a suitable pump or pumps that will make the most of the present system with minor plumbing alterations is for most the only realistic option at this stage.

Maybe a smart operator with an eye on making a profit could look at putting together a second tank kit with the required plumbing that was a relatively easy install?

I'd seriously look at that option if it was offered at a reasonable price.

cheers,
Terry

[bbyer]

I agree Pete a second tank would be a much better option but for most people it is not an easy one. Finding a suitable pump or pumps that will make the most of the present system with minor plumbing alterations is for most the only realistic option at this stage.

Maybe a smart operator with an eye on making a profit could look at putting together a second tank kit with the required plumbing that was a relatively easy install?

I'd seriously look at that option if it was offered at a reasonable price. cheers, Terry

Freight is always the cost problem, but a couple of brackets that would strap/bolt onto the ends of an OEM air tank obtained from a wrecked 3 or Sport would probably cost wise work out pretty good. It could be a practical mod then as only the brackets would be shipped and one could find an air tank locally. I think there are already suitably placed holes or bolts in the right side frame rails that could be used to attach the brackets to.

The hardest part would then be running a piece of the 6mm nylon air line across the underside of the 3 without the airline melting from the exhaust system heat.

[CaverD3]

The hardest part would then be running a piece of the 6mm nylon air line across the underside of the 3 without the airline melting from the exhaust system heat.

Already done that with my air-up system. Poly ones burst easily but nylon ones cope. I put heat shrink over the exposed sections as well. No issues. :D