The new arrival

[sanderm2]

I picked up my first Land Rover today and am very happy with my new 1958 Series II .Its an 88 with a 2ltr motor and it runs and stops which I'm happy about and seems to go ok with no knocks or any nasty noises.
I want to use it as my daily driver but am not going to be changing it too much.

The only rust problem seems to be in the rear cross member so tomorrow I'll remove the rear and repair it followed by some re wiring and whatever other things that start popping up.

I have put some photos up here Series II LandRover - a set on Flickr (http://www.flickr.com/photos/66862214@N03/sets/72157627770593710/with/6190819441/)
Any comments or tips would be appreciated , I would love to know where it came from and what the markings could be from on the front fender ?

Do the seat bases fix to the body anywhere ? cant see anything to secure them on.

I will be hitting it for the next 4 days so hopefully I can get a lot done and will up date with pic's as I go.

Cheers
Matt

[bulletproof]

Hi Matt
Nice truck
To answer your question. The seats just sit there

I would be very interested in the Casting date of you engine. It is at the top of the block under the inlet manifold and above the dyamo.

This is what it looks like on 142800016 which is 6/2/1958

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/09/80.jpg

Cheers Richard

[The ho har's]

Ahh 88" series aren't they the best little vehicle:cool: when they are running of course;)

congrats on your purchase:)

Mrs hh:angel:

[sanderm2]

Well as expected problems popped up at the start , wiring was shot and after nearly burning the whole thing when fault finding the lighting circuit I decided to re wire most of the lights. Only thing not working now is the flasher relay and the stop lights. I think I will add relays to the headlights to give them a bit more juice.
I had a look for that number but only found the two pictured , If I find any more dates I'll post a picture .
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=39625&stc=1&d=1317335150

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=39626&stc=1&d=1317335150

The other picture is of the carb which seems to be leaking from the bottom left in the picture.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=39627&stc=1&d=1317335150
I think I read that this could be from the bush being worn so once everything electrical is done I'll tackle that.
Only other problem is the fuel pump keeps clicking , would this indicate a leak somewhere ?
Can't wait to start driving around in this so bet get back to it .

Thanks

Matt

[bulletproof]

Hi Matt

Thanks for the photos.

If the fuel pump keeps clicking it probably means your float needle is worn and that is why the Carb is dripping

Cheers Richard

[sanderm2]

Thanks Richard

Do you know the model number of these 2ltr carb's ? , cant seem to find a service kit for the 2ltr Solex anywhere ..

Thanks

[bulletproof]

Thanks Richard

Do you know the model number of these 2ltr carb's ? , cant seem to find a service kit for the 2ltr Solex anywhere ..

Thanks
Hi Matt

The correct carb is a 32 PB 1-2 with a 25mm throat

It should be written on your carb with the date. eg My one is B58 meaning Feb 58

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/09/25.jpg

If you need to know the correct jet sizes I could photo the page in the parts book

Cheers Richard

[wrinklearthur]

Hi Matt

Thanks for the photos.

If the fuel pump keeps clicking it probably means your float needle is worn and that is why the Carb is dripping

Cheers Richard
Hi All

Undo the banjo fitting on the side of the carby and pull the bolt and filter out of the way.
Stop the petrol by holding the holes of the banjo fitting between your thumb and finger, then get someone to turn the ignition key on and try the pump.

If the pump stops clicking, it would be the carby for sure and would be a worn or a dirty needle valve and seat.

If the pump clicks as before, then there is an internal fault in the pump.

Afterwards, before screwing the banjo fitting back together, try the flow of petrol into a jug, to check the flow to see if the rest of the fuel lines and filters are ok.

Cheers Arthur

[ezyrama]

I picked up my first Land Rover today and am very happy with my new 1958 Series II .Its an 88 with a 2ltr motor and it runs and stops which I'm happy about and seems to go ok with no knocks or any nasty noises.
I want to use it as my daily driver but am not going to be changing it too much.

The only rust problem seems to be in the rear cross member so tomorrow I'll remove the rear and repair it followed by some re wiring and whatever other things that start popping up.

I have put some photos up here Series II LandRover - a set on Flickr (http://www.flickr.com/photos/66862214@N03/sets/72157627770593710/with/6190819441/)
Any comments or tips would be appreciated , I would love to know where it came from and what the markings could be from on the front fender ?

Do the seat bases fix to the body anywhere ? cant see anything to secure them on.

I will be hitting it for the next 4 days so hopefully I can get a lot done and will up date with pic's as I go.

Cheers
Matt

Nice truck Matt
Keep the photo's coming. These are a lot of fun to play with. If you need some seats, let me know. I might have some left overs from what I need for Ralph (2a).
Cheers Ian

[sanderm2]

Well I got bored of the electrical this morning and after finding the brake light culprit ( I think !) and finding some more rust in the cross member I decided I wanted to get a bit of paint on .

A bit of primer
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=39638&stc=1&d=1317365503
Then the green that came with the car [bigrolf] Looks like the Incredible Hulk !
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=39639&stc=1&d=1317365503
Ive left the center of the dash until I work out what to do with it and am not painting the rest of the interior , it will probably get marine carpeted.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=39640&stc=1&d=1317365503
The brake light issue seems to be this , if I short the two wires the brake lights come on so I think this must be the culprit
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=39641&stc=1&d=1317365503
I am assuming this is the switch , if anyone has some pointers on where to get one it would be good .

Thanks Richard and Arthur for your advice ,I'll pull the carb out and have a look tomorrow. Would this kit fit SOLEX 32 PBIC CARBURETOR REBUILD KIT | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SOLEX-32-PBIC-CARBURETOR-REBUILD-KIT-/290418628500?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item439e4c9794)

I'll try and get another full day in tomorrow :D

[ezyrama]

You don't muck about do you, slow down or you'll put the rest of us to shame :D
Looks good though. Try Jim on 03 8804 0000 for the brake switch. I have been getting a few parts from him and his prices are very good.
Cheers Ian

[sanderm2]

The fuel pump does not keep clicking now :)
Had some fun cleaning out the carb and filters in the pump etc , they were very dirty
The float bowl was nasty and full of crap
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=39676&stc=1&d=1317462968
So was the fuel filter , can you but new gauze for these filters ? Or is it worth putting a newer one in line after the fuel tank ?
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=39677&stc=1&d=1317462968
Fuel pump filter was the same as the rest .
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=39678&stc=1&d=1317462968
Prepped the rest of the body for paint but weather wasn't good for it today so did a repair on the rear outrigger , not the best but will do for now.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=39679&stc=1&d=1317462968
I ordered an new brake switch online for $5.60 which I'm pretty happy about . Once the body is painted I will have to get under and degrease everything , check for leaks and clean and paint the chassis (not looking forward to it but will be worth it !)
I think I'll use this one as a trial run , the sooner I get it registered the sooner I can get rid of my current daily driver and start looking for another one to play with :p

[sanderm2]

Starting to look a bit better now , still need to get under and sort the chassis out but I think it's on its way to getting registered .http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=39737&stc=1&d=1317678458http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=39738&stc=1&d=1317678458http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=39739&stc=1&d=1317678458
I'm just waiting on new festoon holders for the lights and headlight relays to finish the electrical .Need's to get some tyres for it , tailgate glass and work out the seat belts ( may do that after a Blue slip to avoid complications ). I think everything else is there but I'm sure something else will come up !

[sanderm2]

I have slowed down now after a rushed start to get it ready for rego I have moved my deadline to January.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=40083&stc=1&d=1318741007
I have spent a couple of days with the de-greaser and its getting better under there , there was a lot of grease there ,probably holding it all together .Chassis looks pretty good so I'll keep my fingers crossed
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=40084&stc=1&d=1318741007
The transmission brake was full of oil so I have cleaned it out, ordered some new pads and will sort out where the leak is prior to fitting. Ive cleaned up the gear box , transfer and linkages etc and have some nice looking lumps in there now.

The front prop looks ok but there was a bit of movement on the spline and a piece of metal sitting on the shaft ( anyone know what it is ? ).
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=40085&stc=1&d=1318741007

I have ordered six new ball joints to go on and new front engine mounts and am hoping that will do me for the moment. There is a slight leak from the swivel pin housing but no movement so I'll check the seal later.
Here are a few more numbers for Bulletproof , they are from the gearbox and transfer
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=40086&stc=1&d=1318741007
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=40087&stc=1&d=1318741226

I better get off and buy some more de-greaser :)

[NiteMare]

don't fit new handbrake shoes before replacing the output seal on the back of the transfer box, that is where your leak will be coming from

[sanderm2]

Oh no , there appears to be a fuel tank leak :( Bit beyond my abilities this one . Its coming from the bottom seem when you apply pressure .
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
Money being tight I need to find the cheapest solution available and any advice would be appreciated .................There is a fuel tank from a LWB on interweb but looks different to the one fitted on my SWB . Can it be fitted with a bit of modification ? Alternatively can it be repaired somehow without me going to Hospital :D.

[digger]

Oh no , there appears to be a fuel tank leak :( Bit beyond my abilities this one . Its coming from the bottom seem when you apply pressure .
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=40118&stc=1&d=1318803293
Money being tight I need to find the cheapest solution available and any advice would be appreciated .................There is a fuel tank from a LWB on interweb but looks different to the one fitted on my SWB . Can it be fitted with a bit of modification ? Alternatively can it be repaired somehow without me going to Hospital :D.

SEARCH the forum, (redcote/redkote?)its not as desperately bad as you think!

[wrinklearthur]

The transmission brake was full of oil so I have cleaned it out, ordered some new pads and will sort out where the leak is prior to fitting.

Check that surface that the seal runs on, if you can catch your fingernail on it when you scratch along it's surface, it needs something doing about it and besides the fitting of a new part ,the repair that most try now, is the thin wall sleeve over the worn surface.



The front prop looks ok but there was a bit of movement on the spline and a piece of metal sitting on the shaft ( anyone know what it is ? ).

The little square of metal is attached there by spot welding it on and is done by the factory, when they balance the shaft.


I have ordered six new ball joints to go on

As others have found out and have posted on this forum, there are serious issues if the wrong ones are fitted!
Do check the pitch and diameter of the threads and the internal condition of the female threads in the rods.
Another catch to watch out for, some steering knuckles have a shoulder between the thread and the ball cup.
I like to use, a good quality brand of steering knuckle with grease nipples fitted.


and new front engine mounts and am hoping that will do me for the moment.

Do all four mounts at the same time, as the rear ones nearly always get soft from oil sprayed about over time and this allows the softer rear mounts to move about much more, over loading the front engine mounts.



There is a slight leak from the swivel pin housing but no movement so I'll check the seal later.

Again there is another posting ( which I have done a bit of tormenting on as well ), about the inspection and repair of these swivel pin housing seals, do check it out , there's lots of good advice, with some links to YouTube video's on how to do it.

Cheers Arthur

[wrinklearthur]

Hi again

Can you do me a favour, if it isn't too much trouble ?

Pull one of the rear axles out of your early series 2 88" and compare it in length to an axle from the same side from a later series 2A 88".

As I would like to know for sure, if yours is the first of the series 2's, as those first ones had the same front and back axle housings as the series one 88" 's and they had the narrower wheel track.

Cheers Arthur

[sanderm2]

Hi again

Can you do me a favour, if it isn't too much trouble ?

Pull one of the rear axles out of your early series 2 88" and compare it in length to an axle from the same side from a later series 2A 88".

As I would like to know for sure, if yours is the first of the series 2's, as those first ones had the same front and back axle housings as the series one 88" 's and they had the narrower wheel track.

Cheers Arthur
As soon as the front ends done I'll move back and take one out for you :)Thanks for all the advice , I really appreciate your input. The piece of metal I was referring to on the shaft was the metal ring that looks like it's sheared off something ?


SEARCH the forum, (redcote/redkote?)its not as desperately bad as you think!
Thanks , I'll look at that . The leaks not as bad as I thought here is a picture
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=40124&stc=1&d=1318816196
There surely must be a way to patch that up ?

[bulletproof]

Hi again

Can you do me a favour, if it isn't too much trouble ?

Pull one of the rear axles out of your early series 2 88" and compare it in length to an axle from the same side from a later series 2A 88".

As I would like to know for sure, if yours is the first of the series 2's, as those first ones had the same front and back axle housings as the series one 88" 's and they had the narrower wheel track.

Cheers Arthur
Hi Arthur
It was only the proto types that had the series 1 axles. I have the first production 2 and it has the wide axles.

The Jan 1958 parts book says the rear axle number is 279629 and says it is a new part that is not seen on any previos model .

The measurement between the Axle flanges on my Series 1 is 1170mm and on the oldest series 2 is 1220mm.

This is a copy of John Smiths book "The formative years 1948-68"

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/10/707.jpg

Cheers Richard

[wrinklearthur]

Hi Arthur
It was only the proto types that had the series 1 axles. I have the first production 2 and it has the wide axles.

The Jan 1958 parts book says the rear axle number is 279629 and says it is a new part that is not seen on any previos model .

The measurement between the Axle flanges on my Series 1 is 1170mm and on the oldest series 2 is 1220mm.

This is a copy of John Smiths book "The formative years 1948-68"

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/10/707.jpg

Cheers Richard
Hi Richard

I am afraid that I must disagree with that book, as two of those particular early series two Land Rovers I was referring to, were here in Hobart, and the fact that they had the narrow track (front and back) was well known amongst the members of the Four Wheel Drive Club of Tasmania, which I was a member of and joined in 1969.

The problem of replacing broken rear axles and finding suitable replacement axles for those first series 2's, was solved by making spacers to go between the drive flange and the hub, then using the longer axles from the later series 2A.

Cheers Arthur

[bulletproof]

Hi Richard

I am afraid that I must disagree with that book, as two of those particular early series two Land Rovers I was referring to, were here in Hobart, and the fact that they had the narrow track (front and back) was well known amongst the members of the Four Wheel Drive Club of Tasmania, which I was a member of and joined in 1969.

The problem of replacing broken rear axles and finding suitable replacement axles for those first series 2's, was solved by making spacers to go between the drive flange and the hub, then using the longer axles from the later series 2A.

Cheers Arthur

Hi Arthur

All I know for sure is that my Series 2 was assembled before the first Series 2s were dispatched to Australia on Feb 28 1958 and that has the wider axles.

There is a possibility that the CKD assembly plant in Australia fitted Series 1 Axles to a Series 2.

My one was the first Series 2 into dispatch at Solihul on Mar 3 1958 .

Cheers Richard

[JDNSW]

Hi Arthur
......

There is a possibility that the CKD assembly plant in Australia fitted Series 1 Axles to a Series 2.

......

Cheers Richard

That is very likely! What else were they going to do with any Series 1 axles on hand?

Note that the fully floating (narrow track) axle was, I believe, optional in late production Series 1, and standard in late 107 wagons, which continued in production some time after the Series 2 was introduced, until the Series 2 109 wagon became available. Although I don't think these wagons were ever assembled in Australia.

John

[wrinklearthur]

There is a possibility that the CKD assembly plant in Australia fitted Series 1 Axles to a Series 2.
Cheers Richard
Hi Richard

It's great you have some history for your Land Rover, that really does make it worthwhile, is that history you have, complete with the list of owners, etc?

I would also like to know if, the last of the series one station wagons sold here in Australia, had the wider series 2 axles ?

Were they CKD or fully imported? AFAIK they were fully imported.

So, If we can find a few more Land Rovers like Matt has, to lean from, more the better.

Cheers Arthur

[bulletproof]

Hi Richard

It's great you have some history for your Land Rover, that really does make it worthwhile, is that history you have, complete with the list of owners, etc?

I would also like to know if, the last of the series one station wagons sold here in Australia, had the wider series 2 axles ?

Were they CKD or fully imported? AFAIK they were fully imported.

So, If we can find a few more Land Rovers like Matt has, to lean from, more the better.

Cheers Arthur
Hi Arthur
I have the complete ownership and history of my Series 2 and it has been continuous from 58. I have had it for 10 years and I knew the farmer who had had it for 28 years before that. The Rest is documented at the Heritage museum at Gaydon.

My one 142800016 and was the first series 2 into dispatch on Mar 3 1958. The first batch of 6 to Australia was dispatched on Feb 28 58

The second one was a week later on 10 march 144800012 which was the first L/H drive

The third was 144800020 a day later and was a L/H drive

The next 12 in Batches 2 and 3 to Australia were dispatched on 14 march 58

The 107s were built until nearly the end of 1958 but I think they still had Series 1 axles but I am not sure.

I also had a series one that was modified with spacers for a series 2 axles

Cheers Richard

[wrinklearthur]

That is very likely! What else were they going to do with any Series 1 axles on hand?

Note that the fully floating (narrow track) axle was, I believe, optional in late production Series 1, and standard in late 107 wagons, which continued in production some time after the Series 2 was introduced, until the Series 2 109 wagon became available. Although I don't think these wagons were ever assembled in Australia.

John
Hi John

Thanks for that info, it fits with what I remembered about the change over.

Now, the station wagon was 107" so that would mean the diesel motor, wasn't available in a Station Wagon until the Series 2, 109" SW was built?

Cheers Arthur

[sanderm2]

Hi again

Can you do me a favour, if it isn't too much trouble ?

Pull one of the rear axles out of your early series 2 88" and compare it in length to an axle from the same side from a later series 2A 88".

As I would like to know for sure, if yours is the first of the series 2's, as those first ones had the same front and back axle housings as the series one 88" 's and they had the narrower wheel track.

Cheers Arthur

Hi Arthur the rear axle is approx 660mm long , I don't have one to compare it with so I hope this helps .

Thanks

Matt

[wrinklearthur]

Hi Matt

I have a couple of loose 2A axles in the shed, I will grab a tape and let you know.

Cheers Arthur