View Full Version : Custom front bull bar
nat p
30th September 2011, 09:13 PM
My next project on the go is a custom winch bar for my RRC. Actually 2, one for me, one for my brother.
any handy hints? We are all good on the tools. OR some pics of any other ones.
This is what I'm a thinking.
Cheers NAT P
nat p
7th October 2011, 11:33 PM
tough crowd! thought this was this was the EXTREME area! heeh
Maybe from now on I should roll on in the normal range rover section,
Cheers nat
Slunnie
8th October 2011, 09:16 AM
:D
I just like the ones that have the folded centre section for the winch purely from a structural perspective. I think it would be a much stronger design. Tube wings etc are still cool.
cal415
8th October 2011, 10:19 AM
I agree with Slunnie, i dont think this type of bar would look all that good on a rangie, i was considering doing something like that for my defender, but the tube bars on the market were cheap enough and looked good, i might do one in the future with some more protection around the gaurds, but will use some folded section for the winch cradle rather then all tube.
clubagreenie
8th October 2011, 01:07 PM
For the winch cradle use some parallel flange channel, 230 x 75 should be large enough for most low mount winches. 100mm flange is ok for a high mount. Cost me less than $50- for enough for the cradle for the D2 including some plate for the side hangers.
nat p
12th October 2011, 10:22 AM
sorry , I dont know what parallel flange channel is. is that rectangle tube or something?
Do you have pics of yours?
I do argree with the centre foldered area infront where the winch, I will not be making exactly like this guy has, I just want something a bit different and there is not a lot of off the shelf we can get (or they all look the same!!)
ANy handy hints before I start?
Cheers NAT
clubagreenie
12th October 2011, 10:39 PM
It's a C section sort of steel beam, the B sections are the flanges and the faces are parallel. There is also a tapered flange where the inside face gets thicker towards the webbing (D section). Get some 6mm plate and bend at 90deg to go across the open end (as shown in pic) and under the webbing. Bolt to webbing and chassis. 230 x 75 is enough for a low mount and still have enough to cut an opening for the hawse hole and moun the hawse. Imagine the pic below turned so it looks like a U, winch bolted down and rope coming out from under the drum (the usual way unless you turn the winch around so the motor is on the left).
Considered a high mount?
http://t2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcTFykwp_QM9GDzKnM0IQXmHb6lM6QggC ECGskHtfUunDbqXmDPX
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.4 Copyright © 2025 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved.