202 extractors.

[Chomby]

Looking for some extractors to suit a red 202. My current manifold appears to have cracked or isn't holding flat any longer and turned my series into what sounds like a steam powered vehicle (or at speed a Harley) if no one has any I might just try and weld it shut but I've been meaning to find some extractors and this seems to be a good excuse

[Chomby]

Is it possible that my exhaust is leaking from the head gasket? The manifold and head look fine and I put a new exhaust gasket in to no avail. Thoughts?

[bee utey]

If your motor is together and running hold a small strip of paper in long nose pliers and hold it near any suspected gasket leak. It should flutter where the leak is. To test the head gasket do a compression test. You sould hear the gasket whistle if it is blown out.

[Chomby]

I know where the leak is but the exhaust manifold and head gasket are very close, when I rev it I can actually see the flames coming out near the front of the manifold. So I'm not sure wether to take the head off to check if there's a passage blown out there

I dont have the tools to do a compression test

[bee utey]

I dont have the tools to do a compression test

Pass/fail test: finger on plug hole. Or put 1 plug in at a time and crank it. Sus cylinder won't slow the cranking as much and may whistle. Probably best with manifolds off.

[Bearman]

Looking for some extractors to suit a red 202. My current manifold appears to have cracked or isn't holding flat any longer and turned my series into what sounds like a steam powered vehicle (or at speed a Harley) if no one has any I might just try and weld it shut but I've been meaning to find some extractors and this seems to be a good excuse

I wouldn't use extractors unless it's the last option. Your under bonnet temps will be a lot higher as the extractors dissipate heat much easier than a cast manifold. For the little gain from using them I would stick with the OEM manifold. If you have tried a new exhaust gasket and it still leaks I would check the flatness of the manifold sealing surface with a straight edge. It may have distorted a bit over the years. This can be corrected with a surface grind. If you can see flames it will be the exhaust gasket, not the head.

[Bigbjorn]

No point in having extractors unless you have three carbs, big valves, ports cleaned out and the centre posts removed, and a suitable camshaft.

Get the GM-H cast iron twin headers, and run separate 2 1/4" systems all the way out to the back. All you need for a fast street engine.

[Homestar]

Also, if you think sealing the manifold is tough now, a set of extractors will generally make things harder. Most of the cheaper extractors have a thinner face plate than the factory manifold, and you get a height difference between the extractors and the inlet manifold. You may end up having to use spacers, washers and such to get enough tension on them to seal correctly.

Also, some cheap aftermarket manifold gaskets are crap, and will never seal. Get a genuine one, they seal much better.

Cheers - Gav

[Chomby]

So I figured the problem out, can anyone else guess what it is?

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All back together and working great now, much quieter too.

[rick130]

No point in having extractors unless you have three carbs, big valves, ports cleaned out and the centre posts removed, and a suitable camshaft.

Get the GM-H cast iron twin headers, and run separate 2 1/4" systems all the way out to the back. All you need for a fast street engine.

I disagree Brian, a good set of interfernce pipes on a Holden work well IMO, although I do agree the old Holden cast headers are a good item, although again I wouldn't run a twin system right to the back but go into a single pipe for maximum torque (and I can't abide the note of a dual system on a straight six :D )

Any 'modern' XU-1 race car I've seen or worked on uses a single pipe system ;)

[Chomby]

I disagree Brian, a good set of interfernce pipes on a Holden work well IMO, although I do agree the old Holden cast headers are a good item, although again I wouldn't run a twin system right to the back but go into a single pipe for maximum torque (and I can't abide the note of a dual system on a straight six :D )

Any 'modern' XU-1 race car I've seen or worked on uses a single pipe system ;)

Plus every little bit of power helps. Doesn't need to be an expensive engine to benefit from a good exhaust. I was actually going to run headers to an x-force Varex muffler and then dump it out the side in front of the passenger rear tyre. But now that the manifold isn't the issue I can't convince the wife that it's a good idea.

[Bigbjorn]

I disagree Brian, a good set of interfernce pipes on a Holden work well IMO, although I do agree the old Holden cast headers are a good item, although again I wouldn't run a twin system right to the back but go into a single pipe for maximum torque (and I can't abide the note of a dual system on a straight six :D )

Any 'modern' XU-1 race car I've seen or worked on uses a single pipe system ;)

Then you are disagreeing with no less than Phil. Irving. Remember, this is not a race car, but a street engine whose owner is seeking a bit more oomph. In the case of a maximum output engine as in a race car then extractors that are matched to the rest of the intake-exhaust tract are necessary.

[rick130]

Then you are disagreeing with no less than Phil. Irving. Remember, this is not a race car, but a street engine whose owner is seeking a bit more oomph. In the case of a maximum output engine as in a race car then extractors that are matched to the rest of the intake-exhaust tract are necessary.

Tuned length, not interference ;)

Interference style pipes as originally developed by HM, then others will help overall performance without any downsides on a stock engine.

The last of the Black engines that was fuel injected (VK ?) ran a set of two-three-one stainless steel pipes rather than the traditional three-two-one style.
If they weren't worth anything GM-H wouldn't have gone to the expense of fitting them ;)

Oh, and as for disagreeing with 'Deities', I've disagreed with 'em before, no one that's human is infallible :angel:

[Craigb]

New here and stumbled across this post. Just on the original question, a couple of tips I have picked up over the years. Another method for finding an exhaust leak or even a rattle/knock is a piece of tube in your ear and then direct the opening to various suspect points - it narrows down the orchestra of noises to just one point. Also you will find compression testers pretty cheap to buy ($30?) and it will be one tool you will find yourself not using much but over time will pay for itself many times over in time saved chasing probs - and will last forever. Doesn't need to be the best quality to solve a lot of problems since you are mainly comparing if compression is even. Whenever i buy a new car (including my landy that had a misfire) only takes a few minutes to test. And a squirt of oil in the bore to temporarily seal up the rings can narrow down a valves vs rings problem. My misfire was simply a dodgy spark plug and the PO had tried all sorts of stuff to solve.

Should probably put this in a separate post but in case someone sees and can help, is their an easy way eg engine number to tell what capacity a red motor is. I have a S3 I will wreck and don't see myself using the red motor so will ebay it or something - have done a compression check but don't know what it is!

[Chomby]

New here and stumbled across this post. Just on the original question, a couple of tips I have picked up over the years. Another method for finding an exhaust leak or even a rattle/knock is a piece of tube in your ear and then direct the opening to various suspect points - it narrows down the orchestra of noises to just one point. Also you will find compression testers pretty cheap to buy ($30?) and it will be one tool you will find yourself not using much but over time will pay for itself many times over in time saved chasing probs - and will last forever. Doesn't need to be the best quality to solve a lot of problems since you are mainly comparing if compression is even. Whenever i buy a new car (including my landy that had a misfire) only takes a few minutes to test. And a squirt of oil in the bore to temporarily seal up the rings can narrow down a valves vs rings problem. My misfire was simply a dodgy spark plug and the PO had tried all sorts of stuff to solve.

Should probably put this in a separate post but in case someone sees and can help, is their an easy way eg engine number to tell what capacity a red motor is. I have a S3 I will wreck and don't see myself using the red motor so will ebay it or something - have done a compression check but don't know what it is!

Thanks for the advice. As for the red motor, it should ( if it's a later block, have the size in block letters under the exhaust manifold towards the front, 202ci for example is 3.3 I think


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