series 3 chassis swap

[timmae77]

hi all, just bought myself a series 3 station wagon, being the first lr i've owned i could do with some tips and tricks of doing a chassis swap mine being rusted out, hidden bits and pieces that will make the job a bit easier, detailed pics would be awsome:D, any info would be greatly appericated
thanks Tim
(some pics of what i got)
40133

40134

40135

[lost]

The Landrover International magazine - often perform a chassis swap snd have heaps of tips, suggest contacting them for some back issues.

[isuzurover]

If it was me I would buy a 110 chassis and running gear - coils and wider axles are more practical - unless you want to keep it original...?

If the body/frame isn't rusty and you want to save time, you can make a jig and lift it off in one go.

If you are looking for a new chassis, bear in mind that wagon chassis have a number of differences.

[hodgo]

Tim PM sent.

Hodgo

[will d8r]

I saw somewhere the other day a new 110 chassis which seemed very reasonable.SA may be.

[timmae77]

If it was me I would buy a 110 chassis and running gear - coils and wider axles are more practical - unless you want to keep it original...?

If the body/frame isn't rusty and you want to save time, you can make a jig and lift it off in one go.

If you are looking for a new chassis, bear in mind that wagon chassis have a number of differences.
whats the differences?

[timmae77]

i have already found a chassis that i just have to pick up, just need some options/ideas on doing a swap, its not going to be original but i wanna keep it leafy

[Sleepy]

G'day timmae77

Dont forget to ask yourself, "How much do I really love this car?"

A chassis replace is a fairly big job , you will no doubt be tempted to replace other bits and peices as you go. This is a noble pusuit and you will end up with a lovely Series 3 - eventually. The ride is sure to be better too because your wallet will be nice and thin . Let's face it, you could easily spend a few more grand.

Dont mean to be a party pooper but in the end, if you just want a nice series 3 to drive around in, buy one with a good chassis and swap over the bits from your current one..or stick it back into circulation and grab one with a solid chassis. (of which there are plenty around)

I am speaking from experience. My first 109 was a 1960 Series 2 - it was a gem, but the chassis was as solid as soggy cardboard. Sad to see it go, but I got my money back and moved on.

I respect others that like to spend $$$ restoring, I just like to tinker, maintain and drive.

They are a bit like pokies, once you start putting money into one, it is hard to stop:D;). Set yourself a limit before you start pouring the money in. (Geez I sound like Xenephon! )

My 2 cents.

[Lotz-A-Landies]

If it was me I would buy a 110 chassis and running gear - coils and wider axles are more practical - unless you want to keep it original...?

If the body/frame isn't rusty and you want to save time, you can make a jig and lift it off in one go.

If you are looking for a new chassis, bear in mind that wagon chassis have a number of differences.Then you have a 110 with the ugly flat front!

Remind me about the chassis differences? The LROC Sydney Branch used to have the SW chassis jig from the PMC factory. It lay over an unfinished chassis to locate all the brackets and tabs for the SW. There was also a Jig for the regular 109/110 which was used instead of the SW one. It was lost when a member cut the jig up to use the steel for another project. :mad:

When you swap chassis from reg to SW you have to shorten up a couple of supports when you add the other tabs. Remember when you complete the job, you need to get the body engineer certified as a station wagon because QT, RTA etc don't recognise chassis swaps with second hand chassis. The chassis number is the identity of the vehicle.

[hodgo]

whats the differences?


The chassis can be easily mod ed if you can weld. My mate has just done one.Its just a few out riggers to suppurtythe body.


hodgo

[isuzurover]

whats the differences?

As mentioned: Body support brackets and outriggers, PLUS fuel tank mounts, removal of tailgate mounts, etc...

As mentioned, not a big deal if you can weld, and most of the wagon bits on your old chassis should be non-rusty.



Then you have a 110 with the ugly flat front!


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/10/671.jpg

:p