Off road equipment.

[oldsalt]

Just something I added to my D3 today - might make those slippery tracks a bit easier to negotiate ... heh heh
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
:D

[outasight]

[biggrin]

[oldsalt]

I also fitted my Traxide dual battery system ... plus wired up two power points in the rear ... a very good system and easy to fit.

http://files.myopera.com/veedub5/albums/9546232/IMG_1914.JPG

fitted the fridge ...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

and my Boab water tank and fire extinguisher ...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

still got to get a tap for the hose ... and the tie-downs for the fridge, but it's all coming together for the camping season.....

[oldsalt]

The fridge slide is from ORS in case you were wondering ...

http://files.myopera.com/veedub5/albums/9546232/IMG_1912.JPG

[sniegy]

Someone's been a busy boy then.;)
Very nice fit-out well done. :)

[oldsalt]

Yep - and tomorrow afternoon I begin installing my "Frontrunner" spare wheel carrier ... more bits and pieces to rip off the car... and taking to the rear bumper with an angle grinder :eek:

[CSBrisie]

Hi Old Salt - what is the fridge slide bolted to ( some type of home made floor?) - and in turn, what is that "floor" mounting bolted to? It doesnt look like you used the factory tie down points??
cheers!

[DiscoWeb]

Oldsalt,

Do the middle row seats fit back upright with the water tanks behind ?.

Neat system but I assume it reduces the rear cargo area slightly.

What cargo barrier do you have fitted.

George

[oldsalt]

I made a "new" floor - after I took my "third row" seats out - it's 18mm ply, bolted down to three points - and the fridge slide has it's own ply base (to raise it up enough to clear the tailgate when sliding out) and there are 60mm bolts which go through the fridge slide/base plus the "new" floor and are held in by t-nuts.
here's the floor...
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

it has a small access hatch in it so I can use it for storage ...

http://files.myopera.com/veedub5/albums/1286821/IMG_1911.JPG

[oldsalt]

Hi George,
yes the seats and headrests fit back "upright" and can be used as normal.
It does reduce the storage area "slightly" but it makes the cargo barrier a 90degree upright (and gives me 50 lts of water) and it works well for the fitting of my drawer system (being built). The cargo barrier is from "Autosafe" from Boronia (Melbourne) it was $567.
cheers

[oldsalt]

Yesterday I added my rock sliders...

pulled the lower sill trim off and got everything in place
http://files.myopera.com/veedub5/albums/9415042/IMG_1905.JPG

lifted the sliders up with my trolley jack ...
http://files.myopera.com/veedub5/albums/9415042/IMG_1910.JPG

bolted them up with the stainless bolts ...
http://files.myopera.com/veedub5/albums/9415042/IMG_1912.JPG

and here's the result ...
http://files.myopera.com/veedub5/albums/9415042/IMG_1913.JPG

[Disco4SE]

Hey oldsalt, the rock sliders look awesome.
Where did you get them from???
Cheers, Craig

[DiscoWeb]

Oldsalt,

Congrats they look great. Are they the GNV ones ?

George

[oldsalt]

Craig & George,
the "sliders" are a copy of a set from the USA - done by Brad Parsonage (a member on here) - he did them for me quite a while ago and I've only just got around to fitting them, they went on very easily and I'm pleased with the quality - and the price....
I can't remember Brads user name but I'm sure you could get it from the forum admin. I do know Brad was hit pretty badly in the big Queensland floods and his workshop was a right-off so maybe he doesn't do this kind of work any more.
cheers

[Disco4SE]

I have just PM'd the maker in QLD.
Let you know when I hear back.
Cheers, Craig

[~Rich~]

Great Looking Sliders. ;)
:arms::clap2:

[Stuart02]

Yeah, those sliders look great!

[oldsalt]

Today's effort ...
remove the rear bumper's plastic cover ...
http://files.myopera.com/veedub5/albums/9556032/IMG_1909.JPG

clean out the accumulated dirt ...
http://files.myopera.com/veedub5/albums/9556032/IMG_1908.JPG

measure up the rear bumper ...
http://files.myopera.com/veedub5/albums/9556032/IMG_1911.JPG

cut the end off it ...
http://files.myopera.com/veedub5/albums/9556032/IMG_1912.JPG

http://files.myopera.com/veedub5/albums/9556032/IMG_1914.JPG

fit the Frontrunner bracket ...
http://files.myopera.com/veedub5/albums/9556032/IMG_1915.JPG

and that's it for today ...
http://files.myopera.com/veedub5/albums/9556032/IMG_1916.JPG

start putting it all back together tomorrow - hope I don't have any bits left over :eek:

[Disco4SE]

Hi oldsalt, are you able to post a couple of pics taken from front & rear?
I am interested to see how far they protrude out from the vehicle.
Thanks in advance, Craig

[DiscoWeb]

Oldsalt,

Are you also putting in a long range tank ?

What are you gearing up for ?

George.

[rocmic]

Oldsalt,

Congrats they look great. Are they the GNV ones ?

George

George
Thy look very similar to the GNV ones. From the photos, it appears that the stand off bars on the GNV are a bit further out from the vehicle, which enables their use as a sidestep (with non stick tape). The cross section diameter of the tube may be a little less, can't really tell from the photos. I think (from memory) the GNV has four cross members between the slider and stand off (need to check this when I get back home). I'm not sure for the photos wheter Oldsalts are like this, but the rear of the slider part of the GNV is closed off.

Otherwise they look much the same and would do the same job, no doubt both products look good.

I wish I had a trolley jack when I was fitting mine.

Cheers
Mike

[oldsalt]

Craig - here's the pics you requested ...
taken looking straight down from the drivers seat ...
http://files.myopera.com/veedub5/albums/9570122/IMG_1928.JPG

looking towards the rear ...
http://files.myopera.com/veedub5/albums/9570122/IMG_1925.JPG

they hardly stick out at all, which is how I like them, I didn't want to use them as a step, and I find the ones that stick out too far tend to "connect" with my ankle when getting in & out - ouch !!

[oldsalt]

Today I continued with the "rear wheel carrier" project ... put it all back together and made the necessary "adjustments" ... all went well and I'm pleased with the result. Now I have room for that long range tank I've been looking at ...

http://files.myopera.com/veedub5/albums/9570122/IMG_1920.JPG

http://files.myopera.com/veedub5/albums/9570122/IMG_1919.JPG

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

[Graeme]

Does the wheel slope away from the vehicle at the top as I've seen in other pics of the Dolium RWC? I've wondered if it was the particular fitting or that they are designed that way.

[Disco4SE]

Hi oldsalt,
Thanks alot for the pics and information. I got onto the bloke who made yours. He is getting back to me next week.
Well done with the mods to your D3. Everything you have added has been done with perfection.
Cheers, Craig

[But 'n' Ben]

Hi Craig, in your last post to 'Old Salt', were you referring to his Spare Wheel carrier, or to an earlier discussion about Rock Sliders?
I am interested in the latter, and if that is the case, would you oblige with his contact details, or at least let me know when he contacts you.
I hope he has resurrected his business, and is back in production. As I am also in QLD, should make 'dealing' easier.
Thanks,
Don.

[Disco4SE]

Hi Craig, in your last post to 'Old Salt', were you referring to his Spare Wheel carrier, or to an earlier discussion about Rock Sliders?
I am interested in the latter, and if that is the case, would you oblige with his contact details, or at least let me know when he contacts you.
I hope he has resurrected his business, and is back in production. As I am also in QLD, should make 'dealing' easier.
Thanks,
Don.
Hi Don, I was referring to the Rock Sliders.
I'll PM you re: details.
Cheers, Craig

[oldsalt]

Graeme,
hope this answers your question....

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

[oldsalt]

Other view ...

http://files.myopera.com/veedub5/albums/9570122/003.JPG

[NavyDiver]

I have just PM'd the maker in QLD.
Let you know when I hear back.
Cheers, Craig

Any details on if Brad is still making the sliders Craig? I would love a set.

[lrdef110]

Hi Craig, I would like to join the cue also if Brad is making them again.
Cheers,
Barry

[Graeme]

Graeme,
hope this answers your question....

Your's looks vertical - thanks.

[Disco4SE]

Any details on if Brad is still making the sliders Craig? I would love a set.
Brad didn't mention whether he is still making them, however he said that he had a couple of sets.
I will post answers for everyone once I hear from him.
Cheers, Craig

[oldsalt]

I think I should get an agents fee ... (tongue in cheek) :D :D

[elsey]

G'day Oldsalt,

You have done a really good job of fitting all of your 'off road equipment', in particular the sliders (which I would love to get a set of) and the RWC. Do you have any problems with the rear parking sensors now that you have the RWC fitted?

Lou...

[oldsalt]

I'll be sorting the rear parking sensors tomorrow - I'll put a post up about it when I've finished.
cheers

[Disco3QLD]

Hi Guys,
Brad here. This is my first time back on Aulro since January. What a crap year, can't wait till it's over. Our workshop is up & running again probably better now. It's amazing how much money the bank will lend you.:) (A big "No thanks" to our insurance company:mad:).

Great to see the sliders on OldSalt, the car looks great.

Problem you guys may be able to help with. I haven't tried them on a D4 yet but are the mounting points the same as the D3?

Cheers,
Brad

[oldsalt]

Just a guess from me - I'd say YES - the body shouldn't have changed things like mounting points ... but I could be wrong.
Thanks Brad - they're great sliders.....
Glad you are back in business.
cheers :D

[roamer]

I don't know where your sliders bolt on,
but I fitted the side steps off my D3 to D4 and they fitted into the same bolt holes.

Cheers Ken

[Disco3QLD]

Sorry to stray a bit Oldsalt.
They use the M8 threads on the vertical face and the M8 threads around 100mm in from the edge. do they sound the same Roamer?

[roamer]

Yep that would be the same ones, under the plastic bit

[Disco4SE]

I haven't tried them on a D4 yet but are the mounting points the same as the D3?
Hi Brad,
Hope you are well.
Let me know if they do fit the D4 and count me in for a set.
What price are you selling them for??? PM me if you want.
Cheers, Craig

[jonesy63]

Problem you guys may be able to help with. I haven't tried them on a D4 yet but are the mounting points the same as the D3?

Hi Brad - the part number for the LR Side Protection Bars is exactly the same for D3 and D4 - they have the same mounting points.

Cheers,
Rob

[trif]

Hi Guys,

Great to see the sliders on OldSalt, the car looks great.

Problem you guys may be able to help with. I haven't tried them on a D4 yet but are the mounting points the same as the D3?

Cheers,
Brad

Hi Brad,

I have the GNVP rock sliders on my D4. They sell the identical product for both D3 and D4 so mounting points must be the same. I have young children and find their design with the tubing protruding further to act as a side step (after applying non-slip tape) works well.

Regards Trif.

[Disco4SE]

I have young children and find their design with the tubing protruding further to act as a side step (after applying non-slip tape) works well
Hi Trif,
Where did you get the non-slip tape from? Is it clear?
Any chance of pics?
Think thats enough questions for the minute!
Cheers, Craig

[rocmic]

Disco4SE
I don't know where trif got his non-slip tape from, but I run the same sliders and bars on my D3. Go the non-slip tape form the local Clark Rubber store.
Cheers
Mike

[gghaggis]

Disco4SE,

Most of the work-safety shops (RSEA etc) sell non-slip tape of varying widths.

Cheers,

Gordon

[~Rich~]

Any Ship Chandler such as Whitworths: https://www.whitworths.com.au/main_itemdetail.asp?item=85720&search123=Non+Slip&intAbsolutePage=1
or
Bias Marine: Non Skid Tape Black - 48mm x 5M (http://www.biasboating.com.au/product_p/0811b.htm)

[Disco4SE]

Thanks to Mike, Gordon & Rich for your advice.
Will look into it.
Cheers, Craig

[trif]

Hi Trif,
Where did you get the non-slip tape from? Is it clear?
Any chance of pics?
Think thats enough questions for the minute!
Cheers, Craig

Hi Craig,

I think l'm a bit late as others have already answered. The tape l used was sent with the rock sliders (black in colour) but appeared to be a standard tread tape that you might find at a certain large Australian hardware store. It continues to adhere extremely well.

Regards Trif.

[Disco4SE]

Hey TRif, thanks anyway mate.
I was thinking of clear. I would imagine that if the black tape scuffs, you would see the white of the tape underneath.
Is this the case with yours?
Cheers, Craig

[DiscoWeb]

Hi Guys,
Brad here. This is my first time back on Aulro since January. What a crap year, can't wait till it's over. Our workshop is up & running again probably better now. It's amazing how much money the bank will lend you.:) (A big "No thanks" to our insurance company:mad:).

Great to see the sliders on OldSalt, the car looks great.

Problem you guys may be able to help with. I haven't tried them on a D4 yet but are the mounting points the same as the D3?

Cheers,
Brad

Brad,

If you are taking orders please put me down for a set.

Thanks,

George

[~Rich~]

Me too - (price dependant)

[~Rich~]

Do you happen to also make Air Compressor protection plates?

[But 'n' Ben]

Hi Brad, I also would like to consider a set of Sliders, and if possible, can I visit your business to see what they look like? Vehicle is a D4.
Cheers,
Don.

[sniegy]

Brad,
I too would be interested price dependant.
Thanks

OldSalt, how did you go with the sensors?

Cheers

[oldsalt]

Haven't fixed the sensors as yet -I just push the sensor switch when backing up for now - it kills the "beep" - I've got to go down to Raymond Island to do a few "chores" for my elderly parents ... then it'll be back to "Landrover modification land" later this week (hopefully).
P.S. - I'm thinking of importing a set of OEM 17" alloys for my vehicle - anybody have any good info re freight companies to use ???

[Tombie]

Haven't fixed the sensors as yet -I just push the sensor switch when backing up for now - it kills the "beep" - I've got to go down to Raymond Island to do a few "chores" for my elderly parents ... then it'll be back to "Landrover modification land" later this week (hopefully).
P.S. - I'm thinking of importing a set of OEM 17" alloys for my vehicle - anybody have any good info re freight companies to use ???

Group buy? I'm looking for a set of 17s too!


"Where the Desert meets the Sea"
'Did I mention some great 4WDriving is just 5 minutes from home?'

[Graeme]

I'm looking for a set of 17s too!
Didn't you buy numerous X5 rims some time ago? They only need some special nuts available from the USA.

[Tombie]

Didn't you buy numerous X5 rims some time ago? They only need some special nuts available from the USA.

I did! Where does one find these said nuts?




"Where the Desert meets the Sea"
'Did I mention some great 4WDriving is just 5 minutes from home?'

[Graeme]

I bought these:
Gorilla 68148 $1.09 Chrome Lug Nuts E-T Ultra Tapered Mag Seat 13/16" Hex Head 14mm x 1.50 Thread (http://www.brandsport.com/grla-68148.html)

[steven64]

Hi Brad, I also would like to consider a set of Sliders, price dependant
Steven

[NavyDiver]

I think I should get an agents fee ... (tongue in cheek) :D :D

Finders Fee? A beer or vino or two on me when we catch up oldsalt. Ordered mine. The price was 560 plus delivery. Brad (07 32795550) offered narrow or wide for side step. I went narrow like yours.

Thankyou

[oldsalt]

Finders Fee? A beer or vino or two on me when we catch up oldsalt.
Thankyou

You show me yours and I'll show you mine ... ho ho ho ... :p

[adzee]

When I have some cashola I'll be getting a set!

[Disco4SE]

Hi all,
Fitted the rock sliders today...........thanks Brad from QLD.
Thanks also to Oldsalt. The jack idea to lift them into place worked well.
A couple of pointers for those fitting them themselves: -

Remove thewhite plastic nipples from the vertical face of the sills prior to installing the sliders. I put some felt tape towards the top to stop the metal to metal contact.
Remove front quarter panel bottom trim prior to fitting sliders, and cut in later.
You cannot re-fit front mudflaps if you do have them. I tried cutting them neatly around the sliders and they looked mega fugly.
Here are some photos
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/03/133.jpg
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members/disco4se-albums-my+disco+4-picture2951-pc071242.jpg
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members/disco4se-albums-my+disco+4-picture2950-pc071243.jpg

Cheers, Craig

[~Rich~]

Good stuff Craig,
Are they the wide set?
How easy is it to remove that front trim, I've done the sill one before it was easy enough.

[Disco4SE]

Good stuff Craig,
Are they the wide set?
How easy is it to remove that front trim, I've done the sill one before it was easy enough.
Hi Rich, they are the wide set. I did consider the narrow set as they probably look a bit neater, but I wanted the extra side protection.
The wife thinks that they look like a bunk bed ladder on the side............when was the last time we listened to them :wasntme:
I think they look great and it is my vehicle. BTW: She is still getting over the bullbar.
When removing the front trim, you need to pull the wheel arch guard out a bit, then the front sill panel will pop straight out. I must admit, I thought I was going to break something with the amount of pull I had on it (bit like a 14 year old boy) :D
Good luck with the fitting and PM me if you get stuck.
Cheers, Craig

[DiscoWeb]

Hi Rich, they are the wide set. I did consider the narrow set as they probably look a bit neater, but I wanted the extra side protection.
The wife thinks that they look like a bunk bed ladder on the side............when was the last time we listened to them :wasntme:
I think they look great and it is my vehicle. BTW: She is still getting over the bullbar.
When removing the front trim, you need to pull the wheel arch guard out a bit, then the front sill panel will pop straight out. I must admit, I thought I was going to break something with the amount of pull I had on it (bit like a 14 year old boy) :D
Good luck with the fitting and PM me if you get stuck.
Cheers, Craig

Craig,

A couple of questions as Brad has just advised mine are being sent down tomorrow:

1. what size bolts did you use to attach and did they come with the side steps;

2. How much needs to be trimmed from the front quarter bottom panel, and what did you use to trim this ?

3. How long did it take to fit the steps ?

Sorry for the questions but want to fit them Saturday and will try and have everything ready to go so I do not spend half the day back and forth to hardware store.

George.

[Disco4SE]

Hi George,
I have some answers to your queries as follows: -

The bolts & washers are supplied with the sliders. They are dome head hex drive about 30mm long x 6mm gauge.
Once the sliders are bolted into position, you will be able to hold the front quarter panel trim piece into position and guage where to cut it. I used a tennon saw (straight blade hand saw with fine teeth) to cut the trim and sandpaper to smooth off.
Took about 1 hour in total to install.
It is alot easier if you have a second person to help. The trolley jack is also useful.
Make sure that you have all bolts screwed in finger tight prior to locking them right up.
Oldsalt suggested removing the back wheels (one at a time) to remove the two screws in the main trim. I used a short phillips head bit in a socket spanner to save having to remove the wheels. You can get a short right angled screw driver from Supercheap for the job as well.
Dont forget the felt tape (thin) against the body.
Hope all goes well George. PM me if you need and I'll pass on my number.
Cheers, Craig

[DiscoWeb]

Hi George,

Dont forget the felt tape (thin) against the body.
Hope all goes well George. PM me if you need and I'll pass on my number.
Cheers, Craig


Craig,

Thanks for that info much appreciated and I looked back over some earlier correspondence with Brad where he did note he would supply the fitting hardware.

I was looking at those little Phillips head screws near the rear wheel and wondering how I would get them out, right angles screw driver sounds like the go.

A couple more questions if i may;

Can you recall what size Hex driver it was ?

Do they new bolts simply screw in to the existing holes as is or do you need to locate a nut ?

I assume with the felt tape did put this on the inside side of the slider to stop the metal on metal contact with the sill rather than on the outer face to stop it contacting with the door ?

Thanks again.

I will PM you and get you details as a precaution but will only call as a last resort or when my wife insist I stop wrecking the car and the last piece of my male pride has been lost with the skin on my knuckles.

George

[Disco4SE]

Hi George, have some answers below
Craig,

Thanks for that info much appreciated and I looked back over some earlier correspondence with Brad where he did note he would supply the fitting hardware.

I was looking at those little Phillips head screws near the rear wheel and wondering how I would get them out, right angles screw driver sounds like the go.

A couple more questions if i may;

Can you recall what size Hex driver it was ? The hex heads are 5mm

Do they new bolts simply screw in to the existing holes as is or do you need to locate a nut ? The new hex head bolts go straight into existing threads in the body. You will have to peel off a couple of approx 30mm round black tape stickers to expose another couple of screw points. Easily found once you have a look at the holes in the sliders.

I assume with the felt tape did put this on the inside side of the slider to stop the metal on metal contact with the sill rather than on the outer face to stop it contacting with the door ? The felt tape was applied to the vertical face of the sill near the top of the slider. Not necessary, but I did it to stop the rubbing.

Thanks again.

I will PM you and get you details as a precaution but will only call as a last resort or when my wife insist I stop wrecking the car and the last piece of my male pride has been lost with the skin on my knuckles.

George

Good luck with the install George and give me a ring any time.
Cheers, Craig

[Dirty3]

Hi all,
Fitted the rock sliders today...........thanks Brad from QLD.
Thanks also to Oldsalt. The jack idea to lift them into place worked well.
A couple of pointers for those fitting them themselves: -
[LIST=1]
Remove thewhite plastic nipples from the vertical face of the sills prior to installing the sliders. I put some felt tape towards the top to stop the metal to metal contact.
Remove front quarter panel bottom trim prior to fitting sliders, and cut in later.

Cheers, Craig
Hi Craig,
I just had mine delivered this week. What sort of time did it take you to fit them?

Cheers Neil.

[Disco4SE]

Hi Craig,
I just had mine delivered this week. What sort of time did it take you to fit them?

Cheers Neil.
Hi Neil,
Took about 45 minutes all up. PM me if you need to.
Cheers, Craig

[Dirty3]

Hi Neil,
Took about 45 minutes all up. PM me if you need to.
Cheers, Craig

Cheers Craig,
I did PM you but only after did I read the rest of the thread (i came in on this via a search and only got the last messages you sent with pics) so appologies. I get the gist of it all now thanks to others questions and subsequent answers you posted. Just gotta find the time to install hopefully this weekend!!

Thanks for all the info,
Cheers Neil.

[Disco4SE]

Cheers Craig,
I did PM you but only after did I read the rest of the thread (i came in on this via a search and only got the last messages you sent with pics) so appologies. I get the gist of it all now thanks to others questions and subsequent answers you posted. Just gotta find the time to install hopefully this weekend!!

Thanks for all the info,
Cheers Neil.
Hi Neil, PM'd you back with my number.
Feel free to ring me.

Cheers, Craig

[~Rich~]

Mine arrived the Friday before Christmas, thanks Santa! :)
Thanks Brad too!

I found it easiest to not remove the yellow body clips completely, on the drivers side I did but on the passenger side I just knocked off the small nipple only.
Yes the suggestion of using a trolley jack was a great one - thanks.
Easiest to loosely install the screws on the vertical face first, then use a screwdriver as a lever in one of the holes under the sill to pull the slider across enough to get the next screw lined up, continue for the other screws.
Then tighten the complete unit tightly.

I fitted some body rubber from Clark Rubber just above fold for the lower door seals to close against.
The seal does not come with the double sided tape, I bought this from Repco.
I fitted this seal for two reasons:
My mechanic has had a case that wind noise occured without such a seal fitted.
They also help as a secondary seal against Mud and dust as without it the gap varies up to 10mm.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/06/448.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/152.jpg https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/153.jpg https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/154.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/08/651.jpg https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/06/449.jpg

Also fitted my Compressor protection plate from Gordon. ;)

Cheers Rich.

[oldsalt]

I'm still waiting for my compressor plate from Gordon ... probably held up in the chrissie rush of parcels....:(

[DiscoWeb]

I have now fitted my sliders (with the narrow step/bar) from Brad and am very happy.

I have not put up any photos as they look the same as the ones both ~Rich~ and Disco4SE posted.

For what it is worth, I did not use a trolley jack to lift the sliders, just sat them across my knees and lifted into position, not easy but not to hard either and one I had located one bolt to hold up it was simple. I did not install any additional seals or felt trim (as i was a bit lazy) but can report there is no wind or other noise once installed.

Biggest pain was removing the little yellow "pins" that hold on the plastic trim.

Other word of caution is to be careful removing the small piece of plastic trim (the section from the rear of the front wheel to the front doors) that you need to re-install.

The first one I took off I used a bit too much force and broke the plastic bracket away that locates it back on. I still have to cut and refitted these small bits (a job for the weekend) but hope that a couple of screws into the front wheel arch will sort out the one I damaged.

I am looking at stalling some shaped pieces of rubber or plastic to either end of the slider to stop dirt and muck getting between the slider and the sill (the gap visible in the bottom left hand photo ~Rich~ posted) as this looks like it could cause problems over the longer term.

For what its worth I think they look great on the vehicle, the finish is very professional and for a very modest investment give excellent protection to the sills and lower door panels. All up took about 1 hr to fit, very very easy to do.

Thanks Brad, after a bit of mucking around all is now well sorted.

George

[Disco3QLD]

I have now fitted my sliders (with the narrow step/bar)
I am looking at stalling some shaped pieces of rubber or plastic to either end of the slider to stop dirt and muck getting between the slider and the sill (the gap visible in the bottom left hand photo ~Rich~ posted) as this looks like it could cause problems over the longer term.


Glad we sorted it out George. Really happy you like them.

I'll tell you my theory with the gap all around the bottom edge:

I didn't close that gap up because it would leave a pocket for mud etc. to build up in. I figured that leaving it 10mm open would allow me to get in there with a high pressure hose & clean it out to prevent rust. Just my theory though.

Cheers,
Brad

[Dirty3]

Well,

Here's a shot of mine fitted. Looks much better now I have had the car detailed today, got rid of the multitude of scratches (The guy doing the detailing was surprised that I would take such a vehicle off road and subject it to harsh treatment). :huh:

Anyway, I digress. Thanks to Brad for the sliders and George for sorting the mix up. I like Rich's idea of the extra rubber seal as they do let a small amount of dust in but only to the lower inside panels, so that looks a good modification I think.
Cheers to Craig for his words of advice. I used a pair of small electrical cutters to remove the yellow plastic nipples. A quick leverage with screwdriver against them popped them out in seconds.

Cheers Neil.

[oldsalt]

Today I pulled the centre dash apart and installed an AUX plug so I can use my i-pod nano .......
http://files.myopera.com/veedub5/albums/9570122/IMG_1913.JPG

thought I might install the "plug" in the blank section on the air-con control....
http://files.myopera.com/veedub5/albums/9570122/IMG_1911.JPG

opened it up ... no way to get inside this ....
http://files.myopera.com/veedub5/albums/9570122/IMG_1912.JPG

so I put it on the side "H" piece ....
http://files.myopera.com/veedub5/albums/9570122/IMG_1915.JPG

finished result ...
http://files.myopera.com/veedub5/albums/9570122/IMG_1906.JPG

all put back together ....
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

[sniegy]

Very Neat Oldsalt!
Something a little different, good to see.
:D

[oldsalt]

Yesterday I removed the compressor cover ...
http://files.myopera.com/veedub5/albums/10876582/IMG_1911.JPG

the compressor needed a clean ...
http://files.myopera.com/veedub5/albums/10876582/IMG_1909.JPG

here's the plastic cover after a good wash ...
http://files.myopera.com/veedub5/albums/10876582/IMG_1920.JPG

then I put it all back together and fitted my new compressor cover (thanks Gordon)
http://files.myopera.com/veedub5/albums/10876582/IMG_1922.JPG

[oldsalt]

Here's a pic of some of the dirt and crap that came out from just the "cover" and a gentle poke around the compressor with a screwdriver .... the D3 will probably go faster now !!!
http://files.myopera.com/veedub5/albums/10876582/IMG_1915.JPG

now I think I'll look into a cover for the transmission area - it looks a bit "vulnerable" to me ... some "dinkey" little wires just waiting for a stick or a rock to rip them off from their connections ...
http://files.myopera.com/veedub5/albums/10876582/IMG_1919.JPG

[101RRS]

Did you take the top cover out as well and clean it - I have both of mine out at the moment and the top one was as bad as the bottom one.

[Graeme]

now I think I'll look into a cover for the transmission area - it looks a bit "vulnerable" to me ... some "dinkey" little wires just waiting for a stick or a rock to rip them off from their connections ..
Just another cover to collect dirt and gravel and grass that will then catch fire.

[oldsalt]

Did you take the top cover out as well and clean it - I have both of mine out at the moment and the top one was as bad as the bottom one.

Nope - the top cover wasn't too bad - did give it a bit of a squirt though, maybe I'll do the full disassembly one day when I have more time - probably refurbish the compressor at the same time.
cheers

[oldsalt]

Just another cover to collect dirt and gravel and grass that will then catch fire.

I don't drive much in long grass (hardly ever actually) so I'll just be diligent in checking for any fire hazards (something I do just about every time I pull up anyway) - I'd rather do that than drive over a large stick one day and have it flick up and tear off one of the wires leading to my transmission and have a LONG walk home ... horses for courses as they say.
cheers

[Steve223]

great, may I ask what the water tank system is and where you purchased it?

Also could you give me some info about the secondary battery as I like to replicate this.

[Steve223]

Hi Brad,

Looking for some sliders for my Disco D3 can I purchase them from you (i'm in Sydney) and at what cost?

Thanks a lot

Steve


Hi Guys,
Brad here. This is my first time back on Aulro since January. What a crap year, can't wait till it's over. Our workshop is up & running again probably better now. It's amazing how much money the bank will lend you.:) (A big "No thanks" to our insurance company:mad:).

Great to see the sliders on OldSalt, the car looks great.

Problem you guys may be able to help with. I haven't tried them on a D4 yet but are the mounting points the same as the D3?

Cheers,
Brad

[Redback]

Hi Brad,

Looking for some sliders for my Disco D3 can I purchase them from you (i'm in Sydney) and at what cost?

Thanks a lot

Steve

Steve, send Brad(Disco3QLD) a personal message and he will get back to you, he is very helpful.

Baz.

[DiscoWeb]

Steve, send Brad(Disco3QLD) a personal message and he will get back to you, he is very helpful.

Baz.

Baz,

I read your trip report about the VHC and I thought I noted in your comments about some damage and you taking a hit on the rear bar and slider.

How did it hold up, do it's job ?

George

[Redback]

Baz,

I read your trip report about the VHC and I thought I noted in your comments about some damage and you taking a hit on the rear bar and slider.

How did it hold up, do it's job ?

George

The sliders are GOE sliders, they didn't hold up to well, I had to take to them with a block splitter as we couldn't open the passenger side door after the hit.

The rear bar bent just enough to crease the rear side panel and pop the tail light outer cover off, I'm guessing the damage may have been a lot more without the rear bar there.

Baz.

[DiscoWeb]

The sliders are GOE sliders, they didn't hold up to well, I had to take to them with a block splitter as we couldn't open the passenger side door after the hit.

The rear bar bent just enough to crease the rear side panel and pop the tail light outer cover off, I'm guessing the damage may have been a lot more without the rear bar there.

Baz.

Both probably saved you serious damage, must have been a solid hit.

Do your sliders have the wider step. Mine (made by Brad) have the narrow step and I would be surprised if they could be deformed enough to stop the door opening.

Being steel hopefully both can be repaired.

George

[Redback]

Both probably saved you serious damage, must have been a solid hit.

Do your sliders have the wider step. Mine (made by Brad) have the narrow step and I would be surprised if they could be deformed enough to stop the door opening.

Being steel hopefully both can be repaired.

George

Yes I think your right and yes it was a big hit, came as a supprise as I was not going quickly, just idling off the rock step as slow as possible.

The sliders have the wider step, but they are alloy, which may be why they bent a bit more than maybe a set of steel ones would have.

I have also bought a set from Brad, as I think steel is stronger and easier to repair as well.

Baz.

[lrdef110]

A mate & I got ours (with the sider step) from Brad a couple of weeks ago but only got around top fitting them on the weekend. They are awesome, and protect the whole rocker panel. My mate was replacing a set of aluminium side steps on his D3 which bend up easily and stop the doors from opening. Doubt if these will sustain any damage - will be a big hit if they do.
So thanks Brad.

Cheers,
Barry

[gghaggis]

The GOE sliders Baz bought (being second-hand) were the original 2006 design. I'm pretty sure they were the set that was originally on my first D3 and used in the 4WD comps over here, so they had certainly stood up to some heavy-hitting (I came off a 3-foot drop onto one) without anything more than a slight bend. I was therefore quite surprised to hear that Baz had bent it enough to prevent the door opening -- perhaps it finally fatigued? I'd hate to think what would have happened to the door and sill if they hadn't been protected.

I don't believe that steel bar will bend less - quite the contrary. The corollary to that though, is that they're not easily bent back. The newer GOE stand-off bars are set at a different angle and allow for more distance between the bar and the bottom of the door.

Cheers,

Gordon

[isuzurover]

...

I don't believe that steel bar will bend less - quite the contrary. The corollary to that though, is that they're not easily bent back. The newer GOE stand-off bars are set at a different angle and allow for more distance between the bar and the bottom of the door.

Cheers,

Gordon

What grade of alloy do you use?

However, even 6061-T6 has a yield strength similar to mild steel.

For the same level of heat treatment, steel alloys are significantly more resistant to plastic deformation than aluminium alloys.

[gghaggis]

What grade of alloy do you use?

However, even 6061-T6 has a yield strength similar to mild steel.

For the same level of heat treatment, steel alloys are significantly more resistant to plastic deformation than aluminium alloys.

True (edit - well not necessarily false), but such steel is rarely used in this application as it is difficult to bend to shape. As are my stand-off bars - I have to contract out to a firm with a high-powered bender, and even then there is a limit to the cross-sectional wall thickness that they can bend successfully.

Cheers,

Gordon

[isuzurover]

True (edit - well not necessarily false), but such steel is rarely used in this application as it is difficult to bend to shape. As are my stand-off bars - I have to contract out to a firm with a high-powered bender, and even then there is a limit to the cross-sectional wall thickness that they can bend successfully.

Cheers,

Gordon

All steel tubing you can buy in AU/WA is at least 250MPa yield, and 350MPa is readily available.
(e.g. see OneSteel Australian Tube Mills (http://www.austubemills.com/html/products/products_grades_ts100_c350l0.htm)).

6061-T6 (if that is what you use) is ~241 MPa.

350MPa tuing can be readily bent using suitable equipment, as that is what all roll cage builders use! Also most o the competition 4x4 manufacturers, though some use 250MPa ERW.

You can also buy pre-bent sections to weld in - which would be fine for applications such as sliders - though I haven't seen yours to see if you have some fancy shapes.

[gghaggis]

Ben I went to a lot of trouble to source my tubing and a competent fabricator - and I'm sure you are aware that there are a myriad of factors to consider when designing tubing that is not regulated to set sizes or thicknesses, not just the yield strength (or even the ultimate tensile strength, as aluminium and steel alloys have very different behaviours when approaching the plastic limits). I also know that you know I'd be aware ........... ;)

I believe my stand-off bars to be the strongest you can fit to a D3/4 without compromising ground clearance. I don't believe I could accomplish the same in steel without delving into some very exotic alloys. As it is, the aluminium alloy I use is costly enough, and welding it is an art.

There are some benefits to using steel, but for my particular design the ally was a better choice.

Cheers,

Gordon

[BobD]

I think you will find that you would never be able to use 6mm thick steel sliders due to weight considerations. Gordon uses 6mm alloy for the aluminium sliders according to the GOE website.

Since the yield strength of the aluminium and steel are similar (only slightly lower for alloy) 6mm aluminium will have twice the bending capacity of 2 to 3mm steel bars of the same pipe diameter so they will certainly not deform plastically more easily than the steel bars. Aluminium bars are more flexible in the elastic range, however, due to the lower elastic modulus and this should allow them to absorb energy better without yielding and hence permanently deforming.

The argument that steel is stronger than the alloy bars is only valid if the thickness and pipe diameters are the same, which I don't think is the case. Gordon can perhaps elaborate on the sizes better than I can.

[isuzurover]

Ben I went to a lot of trouble to source my tubing and a competent fabricator - and I'm sure you are aware that there are a myriad of factors to consider when designing tubing that is not regulated to set sizes or thicknesses, not just the yield strength (or even the ultimate tensile strength, as aluminium and steel alloys have very different behaviours when approaching the plastic limits). I also know that you know I'd be aware ........... ;)

I believe my stand-off bars to be the strongest you can fit to a D3/4 without compromising ground clearance. I don't believe I could accomplish the same in steel without delving into some very exotic alloys. As it is, the aluminium alloy I use is costly enough, and welding it is an art.

There are some benefits to using steel, but for my particular design the ally was a better choice.

Cheers,

Gordon

Gordon,... no need to be defensive. I am sure your product is very good quality and entirely fit for purpose. I was simply correcting your posts about the properties of steel - and I thought that AULRO was about free and open discussions?

I note that you still haven't stated which aluminium alloy you use???


I also know that you know I'd be aware ........... ;) I thought your qualifications are in IT/modelling/neural networks, not engineering???




I think you will find that you would never be able to use 6mm thick steel sliders due to weight considerations. Gordon uses 6mm alloy for the aluminium sliders according to the GOE website.

Since the yield strength of the aluminium and steel are similar (only slightly lower for alloy) 6mm aluminium will have twice the bending capacity of 2 to 3mm steel bars of the same pipe diameter so they will certainly not deform plastically more easily than the steel bars. Aluminium bars are more flexible in the elastic range, however, due to the lower elastic modulus and this should allow them to absorb energy better without yielding and hence permanently deforming.

The argument that steel is stronger than the alloy bars is only valid if the thickness and pipe diameters are the same, which I don't think is the case. Gordon can perhaps elaborate on the sizes better than I can.

240 MPa is about as good as it gets for alloy. After welding, the HAZ will be significantly lower than 240 MPa. To get the same weight as 6 mm alloy, you would have to go down to ~ 2.5 mm steel. I know from experience that 250 MPa 2.5 mm steel will bend in hard offroading. However 3 or 4 mm thick 250 MPa steel is fine IME. That would certainly be heavier than 6 mm Al though.

[Redback]

Alloy is hard to bend back into shape, when I bent these and had to bend them back so we could open the door, I broke them at the weld, where they had been re-welded a couple times before from looking at them, once by us when we first got them (as Gordon said they are second hand)

So I have gone to steel because they are a lot easier to repair, price isn't issue as they are being replaced through insurance, with steel I can repair them myself, I can't weld alloy and alloy can't be bashed or bent back into shape.

Baz.

[gghaggis]

Gordon,... no need to be defensive. I am sure your product is very good quality and entirely fit for purpose. I was simply correcting your posts about the properties of steel - and I thought that AULRO was about free and open discussions?

I note that you still haven't stated which aluminium alloy you use???

I thought your qualifications are in IT/modelling/neural networks, not engineering???


Hmm - didn't mean to come over as defensive. Yes, I think the sliders we make are fit for purpose. And my point (perhaps poorly made) was that steel bar in this application would bend more easily. Not that alloy per se is less subject to bending. Due to the difference in density, one can achieve greater structural rigidity with the alloy I'm using (which I believe is around 300 MPa yield strength) than with steel. As an aside, one can source aluminium alloy with a YS around 600 MPa, so I don't know where you're getting the 240 MPa limit from? What specific alloy I use and where I get it from is something my supplier can comment on if he wishes.

My undergrad degree was in Engineering (albeit electronic). So I'm no Materials Engineer, but as I model mechanical deformation in mineral assemblages (amongst other things), I have a passing familiarity with the equations of stress-strain and how to use them. And I have no qualification in IT (although I have often performed as a software engineer, which is perhaps what's confusing you).

The stand-off bars are primarily designed to protect against lateral impact. That is why they extrude beyond the curve of the side panels. Otherwise they'd be shorter, like some of the other steel ones; however, I believe side panel damage is more likely (and more costly), so that's what they're designed to protect against. Like all genuine stand-off bars and side-steps, they are not supposed to withstand the weight of the car coming down onto an obstruction without some bending. Mine bend less than most, but at some point they will all bend - there are too many moments of freedom at the unsupported edge of the bar. Obviously drivers/spotters need to be aware of this and plan a path appropriately. Sometimes however, accidental damage will occur and in that instance steel repair is probably easier to arrange than that for alloy. In the newer design of these bars, I've made a greater allowance for bending of the bar prior to it fouling the door, so a much greater vertical impact on the tubing can be tolerated.

So my view is that the alloy sliders (as opposed to steel) are lighter, stronger but harder to repair.

Cheers,

Gordon

[~Rich~]

Prospeed in the UK have these new sliders:
Launch of new Rock and Tree Slider for Discovery (http://www.prospeed-offroad.co.uk/news/42-launch-of-new-rock-and-tree-slider-for-discovery.html)

Interesting to see the holes cut in for High Lift jacks, I'd be dead scared to use these for their intended purpose with the possibility of the jack tipping and ending up in you door!

Video of testing:
Discovery Rock and Tree Slider Testing - YouTube (http://youtu.be/c94XC79KqQU)

Could not find any word of construction materials though.

[gghaggis]

Prospeed in the UK have these new sliders:
Launch of new Rock and Tree Slider for Discovery (http://www.prospeed-offroad.co.uk/news/42-launch-of-new-rock-and-tree-slider-for-discovery.html)


Very nicely engineered product. It does impact on the clearance under the sills though.

Cheers,

Gordon

[BobD]

Very nicely engineered product. It does impact on the clearance under the sills though.

Cheers,

Gordon

Gordon,

Since the chassis and air tank is below the sills do you find that the sliders actually do much sliding or are they mostly protecting from side impact? My chassis has been gouged a couple times on hard gravel / rock but nowhere near the sills.

[gghaggis]

I've found that in most (more extreme) situations you can place the vehicle such that the highest protruding rock/log/etc is under the sill rather than the chassis rail. The chassis rail itself is one of the strongest in production, so although you might gouge or scrape it, I doubt you could actually damage it - unlike the sills. Of course, corrosion then has to be monitored for.

I suppose one could hit the air tank (although it sits slightly higher than the chassis rail), but although I've gouged and scraped my chassis rails a few times, I've never managed to actually hit the tank. Perhaps I'm just lucky?

Cheers,

Gordon

[isuzurover]

Alloy is hard to bend back into shape, when I bent these and had to bend them back so we could open the door, I broke them at the weld, where they had been re-welded a couple times before from looking at them, once by us when we first got them (as Gordon said they are second hand)

So I have gone to steel because they are a lot easier to repair, price isn't issue as they are being replaced through insurance, with steel I can repair them myself, I can't weld alloy and alloy can't be bashed or bent back into shape.

Baz.

One of the issues with alloy is the HAZ (heat affected zone) around any welding will have a much lower strength than the rest. Some recent posts from Dougal on the subject:


1000 series aluminiums are showing up on matweb as H treated, which is mechanical cold worked. Depending on the sections you've got you can get a harder fractured grain in the un-touched aluminium which will transition to a softer and coarser grain in the weld heat affected zone (HAZ). So if it's going to break, it'll do it right at the edge of the HAZ.

You would be limited to annealing the whole radiator to soften it all up and destress the welded areas.

I don't know what grade the radiator builders use though.


6061 has plenty of strength after a T6 heat-treatment (solution heat, quench, artificial aged), but touch it with a welder and it turns to that same as cast soft stuff Ben just mentioned.

People suffer endless pain trying to repair 6061 bike frames with heat-treating them. Weld, ride, crack. Repeat until you bin the bike. A full heat-treatment brings the whole frame back to it's original strength, but I can't imagine anyone doing that to a radiator. I'm also wondering how a radiator would handle the quench part of the T6 heat-treatment.

So any high-strength alloy needs to undergo heat treatment after welding, however there are very few heat treaters in Australia, and even fewer who have experience with Al.

To give you an idea, Maxi-Drive used to send a batch of parts to melbourne once or twice a year for heat treatment.

[oldsalt]

great, may I ask what the water tank system is and where you purchased it?

Also could you give me some info about the secondary battery as I like to replicate this.

The water tank is a "Boab" product and the second battery is from "Traxide" - both very good products. :)

[oldsalt]

Stephen - you asked for some photos of how the cargo barrier "bolts" into the rear of the car ... here they are,
http://files.myopera.com/veedub5/albums/10876582/IMG_1907.JPG

http://files.myopera.com/veedub5/albums/10876582/0IMG_1905.JPG

http://files.myopera.com/veedub5/albums/10876582/0IMG_1909.JPG

hope this helps.
cheers

[SuperMono]

So my view is that the alloy sliders (as opposed to steel) are lighter, stronger but harder to repair.

I have a set of GOE sliders and as it happens did bend one of the side bars last weekend while driving around and around (and around) the Adventure Circuit at the Wandin 4WD show.
This morning I set up some 50mm square tube, wood blocks, chains and a small hydraulic jack. Managed to gently pull the bar back pretty much where it should be, you probably wouldn't notice now unless I pointed it out.
A different story if the bar was actually creased, but with a gentle bend it really was no problem to nudge back into shape.

So no panel damage and the bar is only slightly worse off cosmetically, just missing a little powder coating.

[~Rich~]

4 x 4 Intellegence Rear Wheel carrier fitted, 12 / 10mm high tensile bolts hold it to the rear inner steel bar!

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/04/903.jpg

Also fitted now the Brown Davis 120ltr auxillary tank:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/11/78.jpg

[Disco4SE]

Awesome set up Rich.
How much did the rear wheel carrier set you back??

Cheers, Craig

[~Rich~]

Pm Craig,
Original price was $1600!!!

Got a special deal contact Michael Simootin:
sales@4x4de.com.au

I was tosing up either to get this carrier or the Front Runner, Michael explained that this carrier is superior in strength. It can easily take the weight of a 35" tire not that a 35 would fit a D3, D4 or RRS. ;)

[Disco4SE]

Thanks Rich. Something else for me to do down the track a bit.

Need to catch up after purchasing the 18" wheels through Gordon & LTZ's (same as yours). Hope to have them fitted by mid next week.

Cheers, Craig

[Doug145]

Hi folks,
I have just installed my GOE sliders, compressor plate and transmission plate. The transmission plate replaces the plastic one from Land Rover. All pretty straight forward to fit.
I think they look the business. I hope I don't need to use them, but I am confident if something does happen that my D3 will be looked after.
Doug

[oldsalt]

GOE make nice stuff ... a few of my dollars have jumped into Gordon's back pocket - :D

[Redback]

All looking the good fellas, the transmission and compressor plate from GOE is on the cards for our D4, just waiting for a few things to be done on the Amarok (snorkle and sliders) and we will be ordering them.

This is a very interesting thread, thanks Oldsalt.

Baz.

[Redback]

OK I have been meaning to post these up, fitted the sliders from Brad(Disco3QLD) already tested them out, nothing a dob of paint won't fix:p

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v293/bazzar/IMG_2363.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v293/bazzar/IMG_2364.jpg

Not only do the look good, they are functional too:D

Baz.

[Disco4SE]

They look ballsy Baz..............mudflaps look good too :)

Cheers, Craig

[oldsalt]

Thought I'd put up a few pics of my roof rack - it's a "Front Runner" - very solid and comes with a good ladder which clips on to the rear (or side) and makes roof access easy & safe.
cheers

http://files.myopera.com/veedub5/albums/9570122/P1000114.JPG

http://files.myopera.com/veedub5/albums/9570122/P1000122.JPG

http://files.myopera.com/veedub5/albums/9570122/P1000116.JPG

http://files.myopera.com/veedub5/albums/9570122/P1000118.JPG