Removing Puma Dash.

[PAT303]

I've started wiring up my roof lights and want to use LR light switches in the facia piece so it looks factory.Has anyone removed the facia piece in the dash as I've been undoing screws left right and centre and can't get the thing off.If there's a better way to do the switches I'm all ears also. Thanks Pat

[Bundalene]

Hi Pat

Are you removing just the center section or the whole dash?



I have put a bit of info on switches which we used. The info is right at the bottom of this page.



http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-tutorials/115591-bundalenes-puma-project-18.html


Erich

[PAT303]

Erich,I just want to pull out the center section.I have removed the screws so does it simply pull out?.The boss is not going to be happy if I break anything. Pat

[Bundalene]

Yes there are only 2 screws to remove. There are 6 rectangular locating tabs on the dash which pull out of the holes with a bit of encouragement. I start at the lower left corner with a trim clip remover or similar, then the lower right and release these first, then working up.

Erich

[Bundalene]

J just found a pic of the dash with the center removed, showing 7 rectangular holes, not 6 as I first thought.



http://img585.imageshack.us/img585/4020/dscn0617t.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/585/dscn0617t.jpg/)

Uploaded with ImageShack.us (http://imageshack.us)




Erich

[RVR110]

If there's a better way to do the switches I'm all ears also. Thanks Pat

Hi Pat,

I've done the same thing:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

The wiring on the various types of puma switch can be very different, so be careful what you get. The ones I like are the YUH100370 cruise control switches from a Disco 2 because they have a pretty standard wiring set-up but you'll need to throw the switch's facia away and replace it with one from either a standard Puma switch that has a suitable graphic or from a blank that you can buy. The YUH100370 switch body fits correctly in the Puma dash and the switch is articulated with an on-off indicator light and back lighting. Shop around as switch prices vary wildly. I paid about $25 each last time.

The switches can't handle much current, so all of my circuits include a relay.

The next step for me is to upgrade the graphics on them. I have a friend who has a laser which he tells me can do the graphics, so I'm going to give him some switch blanks and see what he can do.

Cheers, John.

[PAT303]

I like the genuine switches and like the factory look and need a driving light switch,fuel transfer pump switch and compressor.I've ordered a set of trim tools from the UK and switches from Rimmer Bros so next week I'll have another crack at it.Thanks for the help. Pat

[nugge t]

I used 2nd hand swithes and swapped the blank face plates then had them lasered when I did in cab winch controls. Worked great and jsut need to work out the circuit for the different switches. The centre is an on/off isolator and the in and out only work when compressed.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/11/1048.jpg


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/11/1049.jpg

[rainman]

I speak on behalf of Tdi owners here - EEEK! All those plastic tabs and masses of wires :eek:.

Good on you guys for giving it a go. I'm loving the pics.


James.

[weeds]

dont forget to extend the central locking wire/antenna thingy to give you more range

[nugge t]

Is that what that do dad is...can you extend the range....I get mine to work almost to when I get out of the truck!

[Craig]

Is that what that do dad is...can you extend the range....I get mine to work almost to when I get out of the truck!

I did this mod last year, works like a charm.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/90-110-130-defender-county/102087-puma-remote-locking-distance-fixed.html

Can be done in half an hour if it all goes to plan,

Craig

[Nera Donna]

I did this mod last year, works like a charm.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/90-110-130-defender-county/102087-puma-remote-locking-distance-fixed.html

Can be done in half an hour if it all goes to plan,

Craig

Did mine a while back and hasn't worked that well for me????
I'm thinking that because I have a aux power supply cable running up into roof in the same 'A' pillar, it may be causing interferance????
I'll have to revisit it at a later date.
The Jeremy Clarkson, holding the key fob to your head trick, is still working fine. :p

[jimb]

nugget,

When you say you had the blanks layered? Can you explain that to me please.

How do they laser the letters onto the blank switch?

[PAUL200]

I used some black tire levers from a bicycle puncture repair kit to lever the panel off after undoing the two screws

Works a treat and doesn't leave any marks or damage :)

[Jeff]

I just pulled at it, starting at the top and it came off.

Jeff

:rocket:

[landoman]

Yes there are only 2 screws to remove. There are 6 rectangular locating tabs on the dash which pull out of the holes with a bit of encouragement. I start at the lower left corner with a trim clip remover or similar, then the lower right and release these first, then working up.

Erich

Want to install a reversing camera and monitor in my puma 2016
Want to to take the wiring from the camera at the back along chassis rail up through engine bay and into space behind dash via grommet in firewall . Then take it from dash space up between the window dash area
don’t want to drill holes in dash if I can help it

To get the wire through the dash/ window space I can remove the front radio/ clock /switches facia and get my hand there
.......But to make things easier CAN I REMOVE THE TOP SECTION OF THE DASH ABOVE THE RADIO / CLOCK SECTION............??........if so any one who has done this could suggest how I go about it .....screws to remove ....where to prize with out breaking anything .?

Many thanks

[Toxic_Avenger]

This might help: Puma defender radio surround / centre dash removal steps (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-and-tutorials/233933-puma-defender-radio-surround-centre-dash-removal-steps.html)

As for getting the wires thru... I like to get a coathanger, and feed it INTO the vehicle from the engine bay side. Locate the wire end, then tape/tie the wires you need to pull back thru to the wire end. Use plenty of silicone spray, wd40 or similar, and it'll be slippery as a greased pig.

[landoman]

[QUOTE=Toxic_Avenger;2794747]This might help: Puma defender radio surround / centre dash removal steps (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-and-tutorials/233933-puma-defender-radio-surround-centre-dash-removal-steps.html)

As for getting the wires thru... I like to get a coathanger, and feed it INTO the vehicle from the engine bay side. Locate the wire end, then tape/tie the wires you need to pull back thru to the wire end. Use plenty of silicone spray, wd40 or similar, and it'll be slippery as a greased pig.[/QUOTE

thanks for that
have got this out before but could never get it completely removed as I could not disconnect the clock ....... is there a trick to this

also is there anyway to get the top of the dash off ....or is it too huge of a job .....if I need to drill a hole towards the back of it close to window .....then better to remove to get at it as I would want the hole at the back close to window

[jon3950]

The dash is all one piece so you can’t take the top off. You can remove the centre panel and the instrument cluster but everything else is one piece.

However it is fairly simple to remove if you really need to - remove steering wheel and surround, gearsticks, instrument cluster and radio then its just 13 or so (from memory) screws. Sounds worse than it is, takes about half an hour.

Cheers,
Jon

[landoman]

The dash is all one piece so you can’t take the top off. You can remove the centre panel and the instrument cluster but everything else is one piece.

However it is fairly simple to remove if you really need to - remove steering wheel and surround, gearsticks, instrument cluster and radio then its just 13 or so (from memory) screws. Sounds worse than it is, takes about half an hour.

Cheers,
Jon

Ok thanks for that ...think a long drill bit might be the answer to drilling towards the back
.....might leave the dash removal for when it needed for a bigger job

i assume all plugs are just squeeze and pull to get the instrument cluster out
......did try once but the clock I could not disconnect ...if you know of a trick to this let me know

[martnH]

There are two big rubber grommet on the bulkhead. Visible from engine bay.
Also there are small "nipples"on these grommets....Check them and you know what I mean.

I simple cut one of these reserves access points and feed the wire in.

Also another way is to run the camera via the grommet at the back of the truck, right behind the rear speakers. There are a couple of grommets there. External Access is via the mut guard (a piece of plastic sheet...) At the back of the rear wheel arch.


I simply drill a hole into the body...
Cheers
Martin