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moorey
7th November 2011, 10:13 AM
About 12 months ago, Landy (95 Defender 130) started running hotter than usual. First noticed it after getting it set up for Buckland Valley camping trip December last year. Had to take it very gently towing the Camper to keep the temp out of the red. It had never had an issue beforehand, even when radiator was blocked up with Toolangi and Brisbane Ranges mud.
Even when not towing, it had been running much hotter than usual. Changed water pump, thermo, cleaned out radiator....still same...started splitting overflow bottles and hoses, and although I did my best to never let it hit the red, eventually the head went. New head, full cooling system flush, thermo etc and still running hotter than it used to, so I started looking at other possible causes....

Then it dawned on me. The big lightforce ****** lights I ripped from the old Patrol had gone onto Landy on for the Buckland trip. They sit on the ARB bar, right in the middle of the grill. I was dubious that it could be the main problem, but i took them off. Went for a drive on a hot arvo. Pushed it hard up the Buninyong hill (which had been sending it close to red), and it barely moved past the centre....just like olden days Landy (also lowered the number plate, which was coving the hole for the winch, and blocking off a little bit of air flow)

I'm not assuming the problem is solved, but it seems to be, based on a couple of drives. I'll keep an eye on it. https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/11/849.jpg

Anyone ever had such a drastic problem with lights (or winch) blocking the airflow? https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/11/850.jpg

Lotz-A-Landies
7th November 2011, 10:33 AM
Lights, numberplate, winch relay box and oil cooler yes.

When I first purchased my '85 RRc (new) I fitted Cibie Oscar+ spotlights on the ARB brackets, the winch control box on the mount provided between the spots and placed the numberplate in front of that above the fairlead*.

When the 5 litre was installed John Davis' fitted an engine oil cooler in the gap between the OEM sideways "U" shaped transmission cooler. I could never keep the engine cool.

As a consequence I moved the oil cooler down just above the air dam, remote mounted the winch relays out of the airflow and replaced the front numberplate with one of the NSW narrow style plates and mounted it rake'd back at 45 degrees on top of the fairlead, but left the spotlights. Subsequently even with the lights in place the temp returned to normal operating range.

I would imagine that the same would apply to all of the Disco radiator apertures.

http://img150.imageshack.us/img150/7367/1000966wd1.jpg

Diana


* Originally the plate was cliped to the fairlead rollers except when the winch was in use, but had to replace damaged numberplates too often because of the eastern suburbs parking method. Back into the space till you hit the car behind, move forward till you hit the car in front, halve the space between the two hits and you're parked!

moorey
7th November 2011, 11:01 AM
Lights, numberplate, winch relay box and oil cooler yes.

When I first purchased my '85 RRc (new) I fitted Cibie Oscar+ spotlights on the ARB brackets, the winch control box on the mount provided between the spots and placed the numberplate in front of that above the fairlead*.

When the 5 litre was installed John Davis' fitted an engine oil cooler in the gap between the OEM sideways "U" shaped transmission cooler. I could never keep the engine cool.

As a consequence I moved the oil cooler down just above the air dam, remote mounted the winch relays out of the airflow and replaced the front numberplate with one of the NSW narrow style plates and mounted it racked back at 45 degrees on top of the fairlead, but left the spotlights. Subsequently even with the lights in place the temp returned to normal operating range.

I would imagine that the same would apply to all of the Disco radiator apertures.

Diana


* Originally the plate was cliped to the fairlead rollers except when the winch was in use, but had to replace damaged numberplates too often because of the eastern suburbs parking method. Back into the space till you hit the car behind, move forward till you hit the car in front, halve the space between the two hits and you're parked!
The plate will cop it a bit in th bush where it is. I reckon i'll put it back where it was, but move the lights. Unfortunately the only other mounting spot is on top of the bar, and probably illegal...not to mention visually ugly:confused:

PAT303
7th November 2011, 11:10 AM
Common sense I would have thought?,my TDCi defender has a winch bumper and low mount with the lights on a roof rail to leave the air flow unimpeaded going into the rad. Pat

moorey
7th November 2011, 11:14 AM
Common sense I would have thought?,my TDCi defender has a winch bumper and low mount with the lights on a roof rail to leave the air flow unimpeaded going into the rad. Pat
Common sense maybe, but I hadn't heard of others with a similar set up running into the same issues. Cheers

weeds
7th November 2011, 11:33 AM
Common sense maybe, but I hadn't heard of others with a similar set up running into the same issues. Cheers

if everybody had commen sense than i guess this site would be here......

sounds like you might have solved it but do keep an eye on thngs as plenty of us run big lights, front bars with winches etc witout trouble

rangieman
7th November 2011, 11:37 AM
Both my last Defenders the first being a Tdi and the latter aTd5 had L/force 240 blitz lights and a high mount winch on ARB bull bar and never had over heating probs , You could search my old posts and find pics of my old cars set up

Grumbles
7th November 2011, 11:42 AM
with the lights on a roof rail to leave the air flow unimpeaded going into the rad. Pat

Great move Pat but that will get you a fine and a yellow ticket stuck to your car in Victoria.

moorey
7th November 2011, 12:21 PM
if everybody had commen sense than i guess this site would be here......

sounds like you might have solved it but do keep an eye on thngs as plenty of us run big lights, front bars with winches etc witout trouble
I'm running 35", btw, and have been for years...but again, so are many others:angel:

superquag
7th November 2011, 02:46 PM
Any possibility that the fan is'nt doing its job ?- Viscous hub partly kaput ?

A previous (non-LR) vehicle came to me with the fan and hub locked together with bolts... ran perfectly as is.. But when I "unlocked" it, the temp was halfway up from normal/HOT on a cool day, and borderline on a hot one. Using air-con would send it into the red. Hub was dying very slowly, but felt like a serviceable one. Radiator looked perfect when looking in under the cap, and only 30% blocked when re-cleaned.

Bolts went back in...

alexturner
7th November 2011, 02:55 PM
Any possibility that the fan is'nt doing its job ?- Viscous hub kaput ?


My thoughts exactly. I replaced the viscous fan on my 200tdi with a fan out of a Toyota Camry. Ignoring the fact that I have a Toyota part in my Land Rover the fan is far more effective than the stock engine driven unit. I'm getting more airflow and it's right up against the radiator. It also gives me more room in my engine bay for my veggy oil filters :P

moorey
7th November 2011, 02:58 PM
Any possibility that the fan is'nt doing its job ?- Viscous hub partly kaput ?

A previous (non-LR) vehicle came to me with the fan and hub locked together with bolts... ran perfectly as is.. But when I "unlocked" it, the temp was halfway up from normal/HOT on a cool day, and borderline on a hot one. Using air-con would send it into the red. Hub was dying very slowly, but felt like a serviceable one. Radiator looked perfect when looking in under the cap, and only 30% blocked when re-cleaned.

Bolts went back in...
I hadn't considered that...the radiator joint didn't mention doing that when I had the cooling system checked and cleaned. Thanks for that mate. I'll get it looked at:D

moorey
8th November 2011, 08:41 PM
Nope. Still running hotter than I'd like. Time to look at the fan. Another unwanted expense I can't afford. :(

superquag
8th November 2011, 09:09 PM
Nope. Still running hotter than I'd like. Time to look at the fan. Another unwanted expense I can't afford. :(

Take a deep breath before $pending...

Is there some way you can lock the hub on your fan ? - even as a temporary measure, say with cable-ties or wire or whatever.

moorey
8th November 2011, 10:06 PM
Can I demonstrate my lack of mechanical prowess by assuming that the fan not working would effect temperature when moving slowly or while stationary, but that at highway speeds, where I'm having issues, it not working wouldn't be the issue?:confused:

slug_burner
8th November 2011, 10:14 PM
I'd say that is generally the case.

bee utey
8th November 2011, 10:14 PM
Can I demonstrate my lack of mechanical prowess by assuming that the fan not working would effect temperature when moving slowly or while stationary, but that at highway speeds, where I'm having issues, it not working wouldn't be the issue?:confused:
What makes a good viscous fan is its ability to react to hot air hitting the coiled bi-metallic spring on its front. When this gets hot enough it shifts a vane inside causing much more drag, also known as "lock-up". So even at highway speeds a viscous fan should shift much more air when it is working properly than just freewheeling.

There are a number of other vehicles, including Falcons, that use viscous fan couplings. Once you have yours off you can get a fan with the same thread and overall size to replace yours. They are sometimes sold for under $100.

moorey
8th November 2011, 10:29 PM
Cheers for that. Lets say the fan gets fixed, and I have just replaced head, waterpump, thermostat, cleaned out radiator fins, flushed tanks and rodded the radiator, had the flow given the thumbs up by radiator joint.... Where to next?
I know thats a hypothetical, and fan isn't done yet, so MAY be a factor..... But what else should I be worried about?:confused:

PAT303
8th November 2011, 10:37 PM
Nope. Still running hotter than I'd like. Time to look at the fan. Another unwanted expense I can't afford. :(

Ford EL falcon fan,I bought one from a wrecker for $20.Go for a drive and get everything hot and then stick a 2'' paintbrush into the fan,you should be able to give it some real pressure without the fan stopping.If it stops it's stuffed. Pat

DEFENDERZOOK
9th November 2011, 11:32 PM
el falcons have electric fans....

Tombie
9th November 2011, 11:50 PM
Both my last Defenders the first being a Tdi and the latter aTd5 had L/force 240 blitz lights and a high mount winch on ARB bull bar and never had over heating probs , You could search my old posts and find pics of my old cars set up

Agree,but it doesnt mean it wasnt working harder than it should have :)

superquag
10th November 2011, 12:20 AM
But what else should I be worried about?:confused:

Everything else.....


BWAA -Ha ha ha........:twisted:


Sorry...... could'nt resist it......