FL1 - Front Outer CV

[101RRS]

I am attempting to change the front outer CV but am having some trouble separating the CV from the shaft.

There is a small circlip on the end of the shaft that keeps the CV on. You are supposed to tap the CV off by using a drift to knock the CV past the circlip.

The problem is the CV will not come off and I have been using a decent sized hammer on the drift.

Any special tricks to getting the CV off the shaft - I had a Subaru and had to change them all the time and never had any issues.

Cheers

Garry

[woko]

What your doing is what you need to do. They get stuck when they have been there a while. Keep bashing

[101RRS]

What your doing is what you need to do. They get stuck when they have been there a while. Keep bashing

Thanks :), I think :(.

Garry

[SuperMono]

I knocked a few apart one weekend to cobble together a 'bitza' that would survive until a replacement arrived.
Remove clip, whack, whack..........whack, all done.

Maybe have a careful look in case some damage somewhere is glueing it all together. My next approach would include heat to try and induce some expansion and 'crack' the sticky bits.

[101RRS]

Remove clip, whack, whack..........whack, all done.



Thanks.

The clip is inside the CV on the end of the shaft where you cannot get at it and requires the CV to slide over the circlip when you whack it.

As mentioned - more oomph might be required.

Garry

[SuperMono]

Hmm... brain fade perhaps is setting in now that I am the high side of 50.

Still have some bits in the shed I might need to look at to restore my memory.

Don't recall anything more required than a few firm blows though.

[psproule]

I had one get stuck on a Mazda recently. I ended up carefully cutting the joint apart with an angle grinder after giving up when a sledge hammer wouldn't budge it.

Pat

[101RRS]

I had one get stuck on a Mazda recently. I ended up carefully cutting the joint apart with an angle grinder after giving up when a sledge hammer wouldn't budge it.

Pat

:( :( :(

[101RRS]

Still haven't got the joint off yet but have managed to wreck the inner boot. Boots by themselves are more expensive than the CV ($66 vs $49) but the boot that came with the CV is actually closer in design to the inner than the outer and I have not as yet damaged the old outer so it will go onto the new outer CV and the new one on the inner.

Just have to get some more grease and clips.

The old CV is getting the 'mash' hammer treatment tomorrow so we will see what happens.

Garry

[101RRS]

Managed to get the CV off and the new one installed on the shaft - just took more effort.

No one locally lists an inner boot so haven't been able to get one. Anyone know know I might be able to get them for a reasonable price??

Also the inner CV is of a completely different design to the outer and has three large wheels that run on needle bearings - as such the grease inside is much thinner - almost a thick oil - than standard CV grease.

Can anyone tell me what lubricant goes into these CVs?

Thanks

Garry

[woko]

The part number is TDR100710. Im sure who you get your Land Rover parts can supply. If not I sure I could organize one for you.They usually come with grease. Normal CV is fine to use and causes no problems. If you want one quick use a universal CV boot, They have ribs on them you cut to size to fit the joint and shaft.

[101RRS]

The part number is TDR100710. Im sure who you get your Land Rover parts can supply. If not I sure I could organize one for you.They usually come with grease. Normal CV is fine to use and causes no problems. If you want one quick use a universal CV boot, They have ribs on them you cut to size to fit the joint and shaft.

Thanks - unfortunately LR will want a motza for them and would prefer to exhaust other options first. I cannot see how a universal boot will fit as the CV housing is not round - has three scallops in the housing that the boot fills in with moulded sections so the clamp can pull up on.

The lubricant in the inner is much thinner than the outer - it is the red oil colour where the outer is the standard black stuff.

Cheers

Garry

[woko]

Thanks - unfortunately LR will want a motza for them and would prefer to exhaust other options first. I cannot see how a universal boot will fit as the CV housing is not round - has three scallops

Sorry my bad I thought they were round.

[101RRS]

Sorry my bad I thought they were round.

So did I until I pulled them apart. I even had a spare boot that that looks like the inner from the outside - why couldn't they do the same as Subarus - same basic CV for inners and outers - all too easy.

I will check a couple of CV shaft rebuilders tomorrow and see how we go.

Cheers

Garry

[101RRS]

I had no luck finding an inner CV boot that could be obtained quickly so I went and visited a local backyard CV rebuilder. He had a number of similar boots (with the little petals) but of course the landrover one is special and none of his were the same.

He said that he occasionally comes across this and what he does is cut away the concertina bit of the old boot until all is left is the larger end where the clamp goes which has the petals on it. This goes back on the CV housing with the rubber petals filling the dimples in the housing and you then put a generic boot over the lot and clamp it up.

Worked a treat and the shaft is now back in - the IRD oil that leaked out when I took the shaft out was a lot dirtier than I was expecting so a change in gearbox and IRD oils is necessary.

All this work was as a result of changing the cam belt and damaging the inner boot, so now all I have to do is get the drivers side engine mount bolted to the engine - in doing the belt the engine has move back an to the drivers side by about an inch so will have to work out how to move the engine with all the other mounts still in place.:(

Fun, fun, fun :D - not :(.

Garry

[aikendrum105]

Excellent tip on the CV boots - thanks !

You asked me (in one of the threads) about how much the exhaust flex joint replacement was - I actually haven't done it yet - as once the exhaust had cleared it's throat - there's very little smoke at all from the joint when starting / running the car - however I took it into to the local exhaust place to get a quote and a replacement joint was about $80, plus labour to weld it in, which he believed was possible without removing the downpipe. about $100 total. I just didn't get around to booking it in while mucking about for the roadworthy.

Having said that - I didn't have too much drama getting the nuts off the turbo (mostly from underneath with an extension socket) one stud unscrewed instead of the nut - but that still works. The nuts on the front of the Cat were corroded, but a little WD40 and a ring spanner got them loose ok. The nuts on the turbo are a finer pitch thread than those on the cat - just fyi.

If you end up replacing the flex joint insitu and want to sell the complete downpipe you bought - let me know (I know mine comes off easily enough at the moment :) )

Also - I meant to ask - how pronounced is the whistle off your turbo with the acoustic cover removed from the engine bay ? ours is certainly audible but not annoying in any way. Someone mentioned that hearing the whistle is a sign of bearing wear - it doesn't sound any louder than most Hiluxes etc on the road...


Cheers,

Scott. 0412 708 138

[101RRS]

Scott - Thanks for the information, hopefully if you nuts came off easily :o so will mine and I can put the new piece of exhaust in.

Now my turbo never used to whistle and one day it started - actually sounded more a split in the turbo hoses but wasn't - couldn't work it out at first then realised the flex joint in the exhaust was going - it is this that causes the turbo whistle to be heard. I used a cheap bandage kit (lasted 2 days) to fix the hole and the whistle stopped. On my car now the flex joint is completely gone so no exhaust gets down to the muffler - it now sounds like the diesel in a HumVee - nice whistly sound.

While you have the hole in that joint your max revs in top gear will slowly drop with use - to the point that you will not get over 3,000 rpm in top - this is the airfilter getting clogged up with the exhaust particles (gets completely black) - the exhaust seems to get sucked back into the engine bay.

Garry