300 Tdi Defender radiator

[2stroke]

The poor 130 has been getting a little hot and thinning the oil lately when she's been towing the Suzuki as well as one time doing a near high tide run down the beach with a strong tail wind, nothing drastic mind you, just normally she's not fazed by hard work in high ambient temps until now. I had the radiator recored about 8 years and 80000km ago and assumed it'd still be good. Well I whipped it out this afternoon and it turns out it's not. Last recore cost $425 and wondering just how much a new one might be? Think I might shout her some big ends while she's down also.

[Terrain Vehicles]

New rads are about £140 here. And they are a new design with an aluminium core, like modern radiators. :)

[2stroke]

New rads are about £140 here. And they are a new design with an aluminium core, like modern radiators. :)
Mmm wonder how much they are here?

[camel_landy]

Assuming the rest of it is still serviceable, I'd probably go for a re-core again.

It's also worth noting that you can get 5x cores in the Def 300TDi rad, the regular one is a 3 core.

M

[2stroke]

Went to the local radiator shop, new was $710, opted to get it recored again, $524. Last recore was 8 years ago at the same place and cost $425. Happy enough to pull tanks off the radiator in the LJ50 but if that leaks it'll be a lot closer to home and much easier to take out again. I'm really not a fan of removing the radiator in the Defender and I guess I can expect another 8 or so years out of it.

[rick130]

Had to put a new one in the GU Patrol a few months back thanks to stray current.

That's one of the major downsides with aluminium cores, and with the plethora of crook earths a Defender seems to breed, I think the old copper/brass radiator has some positives still. (no pun intended :angel:)

FWIW the new aluminium Adrad radiator for the TD42T was $440.
Looks like it's cured our overheating issue with it too, now I just have to get the Defender re-cored to stop it getting too warm.
BTW 2stroke, those prices you've been quoted are a lot cheaper than a PWR aluminium radiator, they're up around the $1200 mark.

Thanks camel_landy, didn't realise you could get a 5 row core in between the tanks, I'll ask the rad shop now how much more $$ he'll be taking from us.



It never ends, does it. :D

[PAT303]

Get the bypass hole blocked,that makes a world of difference. Pat

[2stroke]

Any potential issues if I get the bypass blocked? I assume it only exists to allow flow when the cores are blocked? I considered a 4 or 5 core core but it cools fine when the radiator is good and the rear 2 cores would only absorb heat the first 3 radiate off. Even though the radiator is fairly hard to access in a desert or somesuch at least I can solder it in the field if needed. Not sure what you do with the plastic tank/ally ones.
I'm assuming also the oil pressure issue may have been caused by the oil cooler not cooling oil? Still think I'll do the big ends while it's down though.

[PAT303]

Just flush it every year and you won't have an issue. Pat

[MacFamily]

I little late now 2stroke sorry, but I bought a new copper Radiator from Karcraft for $350 less then 2 months ago I bought a heap of other things too so you would have to factor in freight also which I think was $20.

[PAT303]

Can I add to this regards radiators,I would not fit an alloy or plastic rad to my vehicle fullstop.Spend the money and fit a copper rad and replace the rubber donuts while your there,I would not run OAT coolant but Extra cool gold Glycol coolant. Pat

[rick130]

Can I add to this regards radiators,I would not fit an alloy or plastic rad to my vehicle fullstop.Spend the money and fit a copper rad and replace the rubber donuts while your there,I would not run OAT coolant but Extra cool gold Glycol coolant. Pat

I'm in the process of converting to Cummins/Fleetguard PG Platinum which is a hybrid coolant. (already have it in the Patrol, Defender is next after I sort the radiator and the tractor will happen soon too)
PG Platinum? Heavy Duty Engine Coolant (http://www.fleetguard.com/html/en/products/cooling/coolant/pg_platinum.html)

Easier and cheaper for me to get than OAT and probably less hassles long term.

[PAT303]

It's good to see cummins changing from OAT,I'm on my third cummins powered acco and this one has leaks everywhere just like the previous two from perished seals,joints etc.The 500K coolant life is a waste as the coolant will be dropped when the core blocks up long before then,Flush and new Extra cool gold every 12months is the go. Pat

[2stroke]

Turns out the bypass hole was blocked last time, radiator guy always does. On the oil pressure issue, I pulled big end bearing no.4 and the whitemetal is worn out, dropped no.4 main cap then and the whitemetal looks thin but not gone. Any tips on replacing the mains? Its the first time I've tried to do mains with the crank still in.

[roverrescue]

With regards to the mains.
Personally I wouldnt tough a 300tdi mains insitu.
That stinking rear main seal is just too pinickity to upset trying to change out the bearings with-out buggering.

From what Ive seen, the big ends wear much quicker than the mains anyways. So put in new big ends, stitch her up and call it done. Do the mains when you have the donk on an engine stand.

Steve
S

[2stroke]

Had me comcerned, must admit. I put a new clutch plate in it in '09 and did the rear main seal then. Quite fond of the way it doesn't leak at present and quite unfond of pulling the gearbox. It was a teflon thing and seemed to have some give but I'll take your word for it. I ordered some new mains and big ends but maybe wise to leave then in the parts cupboard till the motor comes out?

[rick130]

With regards to the mains.
Personally I wouldnt tough a 300tdi mains insitu.
That stinking rear main seal is just too pinickity to upset trying to change out the bearings with-out buggering.

From what Ive seen, the big ends wear much quicker than the mains anyways. So put in new big ends, stitch her up and call it done. Do the mains when you have the donk on an engine stand.

Steve
S

I'm with Steve.

I dropped a main cap just for a look-see when i did mine (looked fine) and did it back up and just did the big ends insitu.

I'd put a new spring in the relief valve too, and don't forget a new O ring for the oil pickup when you drop the sump.

[2stroke]

Thanks guys, looks like we have a consensus. I put in new oil pump rotors, relief spring and slug, timing belt etc in '09 before the first desert run. Also now I think of it there'll be a heap of sealant on the rear main cap sealing it to the seal plate, won't move too readily. There's still whitemetal coverage on the bottom shell on no.4 where I thought the wear on the mains should be. Big end is only worn on the top shell..