High range in LT95 no longer stays engaged

[tallergypsy]

My OZ built '86 110 just got me home after five African Expeditions and no sooner had we unloaded it in Vancouver than it started jumping out of high range on the LT95. Took off the top cover and it looks as if the forward dog clutch has worn teeth. It has about 340,000 Km on the clock

How difficult is it to get this clutch out? Do I need to pull the gearbox?

Ray

[Blknight.aus]

3/5 spanners...

time and patients will get it done and you dont even need to drop the box.

look at the TRB upgrade while you're in there

[Dave_S]

That's a bugger Ray. I thought that thing would go forever. Seeing as the engine is just run in, you should look at a turbo conversion while you're at it. :D

[tallergypsy]

Thanks. Good news it can stay in. When was the TRB thing introduced and where does one buy it. Can I drop in a box from an early Range Rover or are the ratios different?

Ray

[Offender90]

The TRB (Tapered Roller Bearing (on the transfer case intermediate shaft assembly)) box was developed for the Australian Army to improve longevity behind the 4BD1. Officially known as an LT95A, most refer to it as the TRB box.

There are a few ex-army (LT95A) boxes floating around in Aus, but a TRB conversion kit is available for the LT95 (effectively making it an LT95A). The conversion requires some precision drilling on the TC casing for the back of the intermediate shaft, so the box would have to come out, but on the plus side TRB boxes are bulletproof behind a 4BD1.

A rangie LT95 will have lower transfer case gearing to suit the higher revving V8 (1.113:1 transfer ratio as opposed to 0.996:1 on the 110). Rangie LT95's also have a smaller park brake drum than the 110 counterparts, so a 110 LT95 would be preferable.

Not sure where you'd get one, but I'm sure someone will jump in with an answer shortly.

Cheers

Bojan

[justinc]

The TRB (Tapered Roller Bearing (on the transfer case intermediate shaft assembly)) box was developed for the Australian Army to improve longevity behind the 4BD1. Officially known as an LT95A, most refer to it as the TRB box.

There are a few ex-army (LT95A) boxes floating around in Aus, but a TRB conversion kit is available for the LT95 (effectively making it an LT95A). The conversion requires some precision drilling on the TC casing for the back of the intermediate shaft, so the box would have to come out, but on the plus side TRB boxes are bulletproof behind a 4BD1.

A rangie LT95 will have lower transfer case gearing to suit the higher revving V8 (1.113:1 transfer ratio as opposed to 0.996:1 on the 110). Rangie LT95's also have a smaller park brake drum than the 110 counterparts, so a 110 LT95 would be preferable.

Not sure where you'd get one, but I'm sure someone will jump in with an answer shortly.

Cheers

Bojan

Bojan, SOME TRB sets bolt straight in without mods, possibly the Ritter or AMV ones require drilling? I haven't had any dramas bolting the Mil spec ones straight in. The RRC from early 4door 1982 and 1983 had the .996:1 gears as these had the high compression engines and the close gate shift. These trans were perfect as a 110 fitment except as you point out the useless park brake drum. The 110 rear output housing is required to upgrade to a real park brake, and a better conversion still is using a D1 1994 onward backing plate and full cable as opposed to the cable and linkage used in the 110.

Mine has a D1 lever aswell, mounted up next to the drivers seat. I have to make a narrower centre console, but thats no big loss.

JC

[Offender90]

Bojan, SOME TRB sets bolt straight in without mods, possibly the Ritter or AMV ones require drilling?

Either that, or I may be spreading misinformation!!! :wasntme: Thought I'd read it somewhere, but can't for the life of me find it now - it's possible I've had my wires crossed. Thanks for setting me straight.

Bojan

[123rover50]

Yes the Ritter one I had bolted right through with a nut on the front. Had little spacers between each set of bearings too.

[rocket scientist]

Had mine done at McNamara's about 10 years ago. Not a problem since.
It just fitted back in without the box removed for mods.

Pete.

[1103.9TDI]

Yes the Ritter one I had bolted right through with a nut on the front. Had little spacers between each set of bearings too.

While we're talking TRB's, has anyone seen these on the mil-spec (Maxi-D) TRB setup? Not having these, allows the inner part of each bearing to rotate on the shaft causing wear. These bearings have to sit at exactly the right place on the shaft, otherwise continual adjustment is then required to 'keep everything tight'. These shims or spacers must also allow lubrication of the intermediate shaft.

So...by the above post the Ritters units have these spacers? Are they available from anyone as a spare part?

Dave, do the military use shims or spacers in their LT95's?

[djam1]

Im sure Dave will be along shortly
I was told by Kim at LandRanger Spares in Adelaide that he was doing the Army repairs and they went away from the TRB's as they were having too much trouble.

[1103.9TDI]

.......no, I don't believe that the ADF have gone away from the TRB kit, as this system is far superior to the standard needle rollers, all I'm saying is that with the inclusion of a set of shims between each bearing, the setup may become even more reliable.

[Bearman]

Gerry, The only spacer type thing I have seen for the army type TRB assembly is one that goes in between the bearing cones for the low range gear to limit the preload on this gear due to it's small size. Is this the one you are referring to? Apparently there were some failures of the bearings on this gear due to excessive preload. When they come loose the other 2 gears will also be loose and the bearing cones will rotate on the shaft. I have found that if the races are seated fully into the gears and the correct preload obtained (with a shim on the inner end under the plug that fits into the hole in the front of the t/c) the cones will not rotate on the shaft. Tapping the gears and shaft/bolt with a brass hammer when you torque it up will also help ensure the races are fully seated. When you torque the bolt up you will find the low range gear will have the most resistance to turning, the shim was made (by MD I believe) to fit exactly in between the cones and alleviate this. Good idea to check the bolt torque once a year. Only ever seen a few fitted although I do have one in mine.

[lovvemylr110]

My OZ built '86 110 just got me home after five African Expeditions and no sooner had we unloaded it in Vancouver than it started jumping out of high range on the LT95. Took off the top cover and it looks as if the forward dog clutch has worn teeth. It has about 340,000 Km on the clock

How difficult is it to get this clutch out? Do I need to pull the gearbox?

Ray

hi guys iam reaitivly new to owning a LR ,seen your post and wondered what
the outcome was;)

[1103.9TDI]

Yeah, sorry about the hijack, and thanks (allbeitbelatidly) Brian.

[isuzu 110]

Bojan, SOME TRB sets bolt straight in without mods, possibly the Ritter or AMV ones require drilling? I haven't had any dramas bolting the Mil spec ones straight in. The RRC from early 4door 1982 and 1983 had the .996:1 gears as these had the high compression engines and the close gate shift. These trans were perfect as a 110 fitment except as you point out the useless park brake drum. The 110 rear output housing is required to upgrade to a real park brake, and a better conversion still is using a D1 1994 onward backing plate and full cable as opposed to the cable and linkage used in the 110.

Mine has a D1 lever aswell, mounted up next to the drivers seat. I have to make a narrower centre console, but thats no big loss.

JC
Justin can you provide a contact No or any other info for purchasing the taper roller conversion for lt 95 transfer case.