JUMBUCK

[123rover50]

123 Rover 50,s number 2 Rover 50.
One of my current projects.
No that Blackboy is not growing in the engine bay.
Keith

[Killer]

It looks quite tidy Keith.

Cheers, Mick.

[Lost Landy]

The body work looks to be in great shape looks like someone has slung series 2A difs under her :o

[newhue]

Keith that's a good looking jigga, something to pass the day on.
Are they 7.5 x16 tyres, they look sooo big for some reason.

[123rover50]

Tyres are 235 85 I think. I wanted the Defender rims and these tyres are what was on them.
Axle housings are 1950 with coarse spline disco centres and series 2 floating shafts at the back.
Gearbox 2a D suffix.
I think I like the look and am inclined not to paint it.

Keith

[123rover50]

Here is how I did the engine mounts. Others used the original round two piece mounts stuck under the I.P. on the RHS.
I chose to keep the chassis mounts original so the 1600 cc engine can be put back in the future but have fabbed up a mount outside the I.P. with a later rubber mount used.

Keith

[123rover50]

The engine is of course a 200 TDI without the T crossed or the I dotted.
[For the present anyway]
Today I welded in a couple of brackets to the front Xmember to take the radiator support.
Cut the thread off the water pump nose to make more room.
Cut and shut the oil cooler lines.

[Drew Parker]

Interesting Keith.
What clearance do you have for the bonnet over the valve cover once fitted and did this entail any bulkhead mods at all to showhorn in?
thanks
drew

[123rover50]

The starter housing fouled so I ground a bit off it after I cut a bit off the curve of the bulkhead. In hindsight I think I could have left the bulkhead alone and ground more off the housing.
Engine to bonnet clearance looks OK.

[Drew Parker]

Bulkhead/housing... I guess options depend on how much the mounts will allow the engine to twist with torque.. and which way the eng/gbox will try to turn when rev'd hard... Be interested to know how it all turns out when completed. Thanks.

[123rover50]

Some in the UK changed the alternator pulley for a V.W. one. Allowed it to run from the front crank pulley with the waterpump. I didnt have a V.W. so left the alt to run from the rear pulley and be its own tensioner.
It means two belts but I made a plate to replace the PAS pump and turned up a spigot that I bolted to the plate to take the tensioner from the timing cover. This does the waterpump belt.

[LRO53]

General Grabber TR's on a 80" nice!

Will be interesting to see what MPG it get's I rekon it will be as good if not better then a modern TDCi Defender.

[123rover50]

Being a bit of a hoarder and living too far from town to pop in and get things I pick up stuff from the dump that may come in handy some time.
This time bits of exhaust and an old muffler came in handy to fabricate the new system. The straight bit from left to right is from a trampoline frame.

[123rover50]

Fuel tank looks a bit cactus so had to weld up a new one and swap all the bits over.

[123rover50]

Finished and fitted the tank and installed the battery. The disco battery cable was just the right length.
Still enough room for an OD. [I think].
Keith

[123rover50]

Fitted 1" thick double layer sound / heat insulation to the firewall as a bit of an experiment.

[123rover50]

Got the sedimentor and filter hooked up. Kept the former low so as to be able to drain crud out without getting air in.

Keith

[Lost Landy]

Looking really good sofar. With all the work your doing to your 80" it has inspired me to take on a similiar project, I have a great 2.25 desiel engine in the shed now i need to find a donner 80" :D

[123rover50]

Hey Lost Landy, we are all hanging out to see the Pink Panther build up.

Today I thought I better make some seats as its getting close to time for a test drive. Had some checkerplate alloy left over from a tool box but got a bit carried away and decided to make a semi bucket for a bit more comfort.

[Larry]

........., I have a great 2.25 desiel engine in the shed now i need to find a donner 80" :D

A good combination, my 80" has a 2.25 diesel! :thumbsup:

[123rover50]

Set some rivnuts in the backs to attatch the hinges.
Added some extra foam for a lumbar support for my Titanium L1 & L2.
Time to get the old Singer working.
Keith

[123rover50]

Hi Larry.
Just remembered I have a pic of your truck at the Expo.
Looks good. I have a 107 cab I will fit to Jumbuck.
Keith

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/237.jpg

[Larry]

Hi Larry.
Just remembered I have a pic of your truck at the Expo.
Looks good. I have a 107 cab I will fit to Jumbuck.
Keith


Thanks Keith, I remember that very wet day! :D:ohyes:

[123rover50]

Two down , one base to go.
I am making them thicker and firmer than photos I have seen of originals.
Lot of time taken doing this. No wonder auto trimmers charge what they do.
Keith

[Lost Landy]

Those seat dont look half bad may have to get you to make some for my Landy :D

[123rover50]

Started it the other day and wondered why I was getting air in.
After a look it was obvious as I had the fuel filter on the suction side of the lift pump (under the seat base) and it was not bleeding properly as the air in the top of the filter could not escape or be sucked through as the pipe run was down before it came up.
Relocated to the RH side of engine bay on the pressure side of the lift pump and all is good again.

Keith

[123rover50]

Well its taken me nearly all day today to work out the place and type of airbox.
Wanted to use the 200 TDI box but just would,nt fit.
Finally tried a V8 Disco box. Its shorter and looks like its OK. Just had to cut the trumpet off and will probably clamp a baffle in front.

[Larry]

You obviously have a lot of "surplus" parts available for use.:p

Very convenient!:D

[chazza]

Just had to cut the trumpet off and will probably clamp a baffle in front.

What is the baffle for?

[123rover50]

Hi Charlie. How is your conversion going?
Looking in the front one can see the paper filter. Worries me it might get damaged and water could shoot straight in there. I thought I might stick on a PVC T piece so the air enters from each side.
I have seen another airbox somewhere, maybe from an early Rangie that had a tin circle on a standoff fastened in front if the intake opening.
Keith

[123rover50]

Here is another view. The element in these is fairly short and I have just enough room between the airbox and radiator to change it without unbolting anything.

[chazza]

Hi Charlie. How is your conversion going?
Looking in the front one can see the paper filter. Worries me it might get damaged and water could shoot straight in there.
Keith

Ah of course - never thought of that! Could you use a piece of convoluted hose to draw the air form somewhere drier?

My conversion came to a halt this year, as I have been fighting with the Disco since Easter with a camshaft change and it still isn't right, as one of the new lifters has karked it :mad:

I have ordered some lead insulation for the firewall and gearbox cover and some Resomat for everywhere else, so the lead at least needs to go in first before I can try fitting the engine. I have a 300tdi manifold and engine as per Nitemare's suggestion, so hopefully I can make it fit.

Thanks for posting your progress,

Cheers Charlie

[123rover50]

Yesterday I took Jumbuck for a strop down the drive.
I must say I am impressed with the way it goes, compared to the Disco or the 120 Isuzu it is more like a sports car.
However I was somewhat annoyed on returning to the shed to discover oil coming from the flywheel drain. Rather a lot of oil.
Even more annoying in that I had replaced a perfectly good seal with a new one.
Why?
Advice from various sources state that as I had the flywheel machined and fitted new clutch etc it would be foolish not to.
I would not have to do it later would I.
Anyway out with the engine and clutch and flywheel and backplate and with a cursory inspection all looks OK.
Closer inspection it seems the seal is not quite centre but it may be my eyes. That seal was hard to tap in and I may have distorted it.
The new seal that I had on hand for a spare. Same colour different make, slid in easily.
I will reasemble today, fingers crossed.

[chazza]

Keith, did you use an internal sleeve when you slid the new seal in?

I used a Speedi-sleeve on the Disco, which was a bit too big for the crankshaft journal with the seal already on it. Once the bearing housing was tightened the Speedi-sleeve could be withdrawn. I wonder if your seal had its lip turned when you tapped it in.

Of course the 200tdi may be a totally different kettle of fish to the V8 ;)

Cheers Charlie

[123rover50]

The seal I took out had a long fragile looking lip but the new one was just an ordinary lip seal with the backup spring. It went over the crank OK I just had trouble getting it into the housing.
The new seal I just put in looked the same but pushed in easily. I wrapped some tape around the crank when I fitted the housing/ backplate. Got it back together today and took it for a run. All seems OK. No leaks.
The leaky seal I took out looks OK too. Beats me but I must have distorted it somehow installing it.

[123rover50]

While I had the engine out I used a holesaw to cut a hole in the crossmember to get access to the flywheel drain plug. Its right in the centre. I will need that to do the timing belt.
Also machined down the spacer on the throwout as I think I had it a bit thick.

[123rover50]

Had a visit from the BSFnut family the other day. Good to finally meet as it was Wally that found the original chassis engine mount for Tristan so they could be reunited.
My XYL was impressed with the passenger step on his 109 so I was told to make one too.
It looks low but is still above the muffler and chassis.

I Know, Yuk, Checker plate on an 80. Sorry its all I had.
I extended it under the floor over the muffler as a heat shield. As you know these floors get hot

[Larry]

........I Know, Yuk, Checker plate on an 80. Sorry its all I had.......

It looks no worse than my alloy fuel tank!:p

Got to have a bit of bling.:D

[123rover50]

Hey thats a good shot, I like it and the tank, What are the wheels? FC?

[Larry]

Hey thats a good shot, I like it and the tank, What are the wheels? FC?

Yep, right first go.;)

[123rover50]

Electric fan

[123rover50]

Pulled out my rubber seals. The bulkhead to screen is a repro but the vent is original NOS. Dont you love the little nostalgic tags.

[123rover50]

Got the seals fitted to the second best windscreen and vent I have.
The threads on the vent catches took some work but are now good.

[123rover50]

This is an early bonnet and has the windscreen fastener going to a staple rather than the windscreen support as on later models.
These were missing so I grabbed a couple of the bonnet fasteners I had and bolted them up.
Didnt work. They are not the same as the early ones have a 90 deg bend in the stem to allow them to drop low enough.
Looks like I will have to make some.

[123rover50]

A few years back, I think on the TransTasman forum there was a thread on this switch. I thought it interesting at the time but have since forgotten its purpose.
Can someone who hasnt lost as many braincells as myself please remind me.
Thanks.
Keith

[chazza]

G'day Keith,
In WA at least, it was a law requiring the rear tail lights to be switched externally,

Cheers Charlie

[123rover50]

This is an Annand and Thompson landy so they must have done it over here too.
What was the reason behind it?
Keith

[123rover50]

To convert a straight stem latch to a bent stem.
Clamp knob in vice.
Pull handle to compress spring.
Clamp small vicegrip on shaft to hold spring compressed.
Dress down the head of a 1/4" carriage head bolt to size.
Cut existing knob off and weld bolt on at rightangles about 5/8" back from head.
Cut off stem of bolt and dress to shape with grinder.
Paint and release vicegrips.

[123rover50]

Front nearly finished.
Not many wires in this engine bay, though I may have got carried away with fuses.
Brakes still spongy but cant seem to get any more air out.

[123rover50]

Got some doors sorted and fitted new locks.
These aftermarket ones have a long tongue and wont slam shut.
On Barumbah I reprofiled them with a grinder but now on Jumbuck I marked the position where on lifting the handle the tongue clears the body but still fully engages the latch plate. Marked the spot and drilled just under.
Fitted a split pin but a roll pin , spline pin or tap a thread and screw in a machine screw would look neater.
Door now slams shut and latches perfectly.

[123rover50]

Dont you like the way you can put the bonnet right up and fix it so it wont fall on your head.

[ellard]

Dont you like the way you can put the bonnet right up and fix it so it wont fall on your head.

top idea = but it only applicable if there is no spare tyre.

Wayne

[123rover50]

Hi Wayne.
Yes this bonnet has not got the carrier. The others with carriers are all cracked.
I will keep the tyre in the back to even out the weight a bit.
Keith

[123rover50]

Thought the tyres looked a bit big so swapped them for the 700,s off Barumbah. Looks and goes better. Get more lock and fit behind the seats where the other did not.

[ellard]

Hi ther Keith

I will be taking your lead with this idea - buy putting the spare tyre in the back of the car. Due to the fact the kids & wife dont check the oil or water as they are unable to get the bonnet open (weigth issues).

Ps - nice comfortable seat backs.........

Thanks

Wayne

[123rover50]

As the engine history is unknown I thought I better replace the Timing belt. While I had the radiator out I thought I would do the winch drive to avoid removing the rad again later.
Bit hard doing a winch drive on a 200 tdi but I turned up a sleeve that fits over the nut and welded on a flange with holes that mate with the 4 8mm bolts that hold the pulley on.
Turned the end of a bit of hollow bar down to slide inside, split it 20 mm
lenghwise into quarters , cut it off and welded two of the pieces inside the end of the sleeve.
I needed a spline end for the sliding bit to engage so found an old forward controll fan shaft that has small uni,s. Cut the joint up and used the 2 ends of the yolk as the drive. Matched it on the grinder to suit the lugs in the sleeve .
The shaft is on an angle so it has to act like a uni too.
Machined the shaft after welding the uni spline on one end and the winch spline on the other. Takes a 19mm bearing housing that I bolted to a tapped plate tacked to the chassis.
This is not ideal as it will be hard to remove however I will attack that when need be.

[wrinklearthur]

Front nearly finished.
Not many wires in this engine bay, though I may have got carried away with fuses.
Brakes still spongy but cant seem to get any more air out.

Hi Keith

I would love to hear the noise of that Klaxon. :BigThumb:

Has anyone put audio files on their posts that can clicked on, so you can hear the sound?
.

[123rover50]

I wish Arthur.
I had one on my first car , a 29 model A when I was 16 but my understanding is the Klaxon is the motor driven Aaa-oooo-gaaaa type.
This has the vibrating diaphram thingo but the pic is not too clear.
More photos of the winch drive. Havnt got the control rod sorted yet but the arm is an old gate hinge with a slot cut in it.
The roller is an old truck axle I had to turn down to fit the fairlead brackets as it was too big.

[123rover50]

With the TDI the hole for the flywheel timing pin is directly over the crossmember. I used a holesaw to drill this remembering it is not at 6 o,clock(from front). It is more like 5 past 6 so one has to drill in the right place or it wont line up.
The tool has to be long enough to reach right through so I knocked one up from bits and pieces.
Drilled a 3/16 hole through a suitable metric bolt,. Welded on a bit of hydraulic tube. Used a broken 3/16 drill that had a couple of pop rivet heads stuck on it as the plunger and a yellow knob spring.
Rotate the engine till the key is 10 to 12, screw in the tool tight, back off 1 turn then rotate again. You hear the pin click in just as the key hits 12 o clock.

[123rover50]

Registered and on the road today.
Took Anne into town to pick up the mail.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/03/1363.jpg

Well, whats the next project.

Keith

[Quigley]

Well it looks good in this photo.....
But it's even better in the flesh!
I saw it registered, and running today.
I can hear the horn (and I'm deaf ) I can't hear the engine but saw it start with a little puff of smoke and could feel the body vibrate.
Great job Keith.
Onto the tractor now?

[Killer]

Great work Keith, keep em coming.:)

Cheers, Mick.

[digger]

looks good!, well done...

if you dont mind me asking roughly how much did this project set you back?
(feel free to tell me to shove off!)

as I said looks schmick (love the rego!)
Cheers

(almost as "(birma)bright" as one of yours Killer? :D (thanks for the photos!) )

[wrinklearthur]

Hi Keith

The Rova looks great.

To fend off raindrops, along with the policy of that you must encourage rain drops to reach the ground, what type of top have you in mind?
.

[123rover50]

Hi Keith

The Rova looks great.

To fend off raindrops, along with the policy of that you must encourage rain drops to reach the ground, what type of top have you in mind?
.

Funny you should ask. My wife does not like her hair being blown around and on this drive had her eyes shut so I am working on a top. Either that or fit her with motorcyclists visor.
Keith

[123rover50]

looks good!, well done...

if you dont mind me asking roughly how much did this project set you back?
(feel free to tell me to shove off!)

as I said looks schmick (love the rego!)
Cheers

(almost as "(birma)bright" as one of yours Killer? :D (thanks for the photos!) )

Digger thats a difficult question.
I have spent around $3000 on donor vehicles since the late 80,s when I started rebuilding Tristan. Leftovers have been used on the later rebuilds.
The biggest expense was the engine $1300. The gearbox 2a suffix d I had.
Axles the same. Chassis I was given. Galv bulkhead was attarched to the SW chassis I put under Tristan. Paid for new brake lines, & wiring. $150 odd for the vinyl and foam for the seats. Sewed them myself. No paint.
Tyres I borrowed from the 109 untill I know what size will work. Dash lights , wiring and fuses from autobarn another $80 but still some left for the next project.
Really your guess is as good as mine but its fun.
Keith

[123rover50]

Hi Keith

The Rova looks great.

To fend off raindrops, along with the policy of that you must encourage rain drops to reach the ground, what type of top have you in mind?
.

The first solution.

[digger]

The first solution.

nice!
I have an 80" swb hardtop also, they look good and although pretty close to 86/88 top,

the 86/88 look really wrong when their on top of an 80!

[123rover50]

Ummmm , actually it is a 109 cab.
Didnt like it so have now removed it.

[The ho har's]

Looking terrific Keith:)

Is that the one with Broadmere Pastoral Co. Taroom on the side, I can't see it in the picky:) have sent e-mails off as well;):D

Mrs hh:angel:

[123rover50]

No not Jumbuck. Another one.
Thanks for sending the emails/ Be interesting to see what turns up.
Googling brought up stuff on Broadmere and stuff on Taroom but not what I was after. I thought It may have been swallowed up by a bigger company.

[123rover50]

This engine runs very cool and I have a toggle switch set up to turn on the fan if the gauge gets high.
However recently during some hill climbs I forgot to check the gauge and when I did it was close to 100C.
Decided to investigate a suitable switch and found this. Fuelmiser CFS52. Its a direct screw in replacement for the Normally Closed switch on top of the thermo housing but is Normally Open. It is set to close at 90C and open at 85C
Keith

[123rover50]

Got a bit bogged down with the Royal so as I needed a tow hitch for Jumbuck I decided to convert an old tow drop plate I had lying around.
Cut a bit off, turned it around and drilled another four holes and thats that.

[123rover50]

In time for the first day of summer Jumbuck covers up with an Undercover Covers Bikini.
I think it looks " cool " and it is:D

Keith

[Defender Mike]

Hi keith,

We are back over your way in a few weeks again. We did drop in back in September in a little red hire car( if the neighbours said anything ) but you were away. I have found a MAP Capstan for Borumbah in Northgate and the Fairey overdrive rebuild is coming along but some parts are hard to get and I may have to make a new lay gear. Borumbah is staying home this trip and we are brining the Defender . We will be heading up the coast and onto Fraser Island so will catch up then if you will be home. Ps fitted new vintage spotties and today wire headlight protectors have a look on my thread.
Mike:)

[123rover50]

Yes saw that. The old girl still looking good.
Give us a bell when you come over.
That house in town is still for sale. The one two down was passed in at $60.000. but is pretty rough.
Keith

[Defender Mike]

:)I took the missus for a look in September. Will see what the New Year brings.
Mike

[123rover50]

We must have gone to town shopping that day.
Next time.

The rear edge of the top seemed a bit slack so I fastened a couple of Footman Loops further out on the tub.
This tightened it up and I think looks better.

[back_in]

Hi Wizard
your tow plate looks a little light on
hope you are not going to hang toooooooooo much behind it
might be a little expensive if it broke on the Queens highway
cheers
Ian

[107gus]

Looking good there Keith

[ellard]

Hi there Keith

Your car has been named after our decline

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/12/255.jpg (http://s5.photobucket.com/user/firefighter_sa/media/20130421_093816_zpse3bb2fea.jpg.html)

PS -great little rover as well

Wayne

[Landy Smurf]

Hey Keith I love this build.
I have a 107 that I am looking at putting a 200tdi in. It is from a disco, does this make it any better or worse than one from a Defender?
Do you have any tips?

[123rover50]

Jeez Tony this is a bit of a blast from the past.
Jumbuck is still going strong though I took it off full rego and put it on club now I have Masalai on the road as a daily drive.
I used Disco engines on both of them as they fit in better than the Defender one.
Jumbuck doesnt have the turbo but Masalai does.

Are you going non turbo or turbo?

[JDNSW]

The Defender 200tdi is modified compared to the Disco (turbo & manifold) to fit. I suspect that you will have difficulty with a Disco one in a 107, although if not using the turbo, less so.

[123rover50]

You will have no problem with the Disco one in your 107. It fits in the 80" and the 88" OK.
The Defender injector pump sits lower than the Disco one and fouls the engine mount.
As John says the turbo and manifold are higher on the Defender engine.
If you are going non turbo, series 2.25 manifolds fit.
On Masalai I used a 300 TDI turbo and manifold
Jerry D used a Disco engine and Defender manifold and turbo so it can be done
See this thread. Change of name.
Another project "Binatang" (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/slow-workshop/236207-another-project-binatang-4.html)

[123rover50]

Here are engine bay pics.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1776/42869288765_56b8b88dd1_h.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/28jdj1n)IMG_2266[1] (https://flic.kr/p/28jdj1n) by https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1796/43725334462_c1203abdfd_h.jpg (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141809689@N05/

[url=https://flic.kr/p/29BRLyW)IMG_2265[1] (https://flic.kr/p/29BRLyW) by https://farm1.staticflickr.com/836/42783969084_68e698c56b_h.jpg (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141809689@N05/

[url=https://flic.kr/p/28bF2ro)jumbuck and wood (https://flic.kr/p/28bF2ro) by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/141809689@N05/]

[Landy Smurf]

I originally thought non turbo due to fitment. However, having a turbo would be better. I need to redo all running gear so I am happy to modify/upgrade.