How to rebuild a TD5 Engine

[Psimpson7]

Note - If you do this, ensure you follow the workshop manual. This is a step by step of the main points that I took pics off when I did it... there may be errors or ommisions!!

Thought it may be worth putting up a thread showing the total steps involved in rebuilding a TD5 engine. This is the one I found the bent conrod in.

It is out of a 2003 D2A manual with 216k km on the clock
Very low compression readings were the catalyst to pull the engine – 150-165psi

So the engine came out.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/1261.jpg

I then stripped it down - the head came off before I removed it as I managed to damage one of the bell housing bolt heads.
Here is one of the reasons for the low compression.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/1262.jpg

I won’t waste time with pictures of the strip down

So the first step was to get the pistons and block to a machine shop.
I had the block machined to suit a new genuine set of 20 thou Kolben Schmitt pistons. The clearance specified by the workshop manual and the engine shops computer system specified 7-8 thou clearance which seems like quite a bit, but with nothing to contradict this we went for 7thou clearance.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/1263.jpg

Building up the pistons on the rods. The rods are crack fractured so the caps can really only go on one way around. Arrow on piston and lug on rod both need to point to front of engine:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/1264.jpg

Fitting replacement main bearing shells into block:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/1265.jpg

New Thrusts fitted to main number 3:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/1266.jpg

Crank re-fitted:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/1267.jpg

Checking thrusts are still in place:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/1268.jpg

Main bearing shells in cap:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/1269.jpg

Fit and tighten main bearings:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/1270.jpg

Crank end float now needs to be checked. I used a padded lever and some feeler gauges. manual shows a DTI but I didn't have one to hand.
Oil squirter for timing chain refitted:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/1271.jpg

Fit oil squirters for each piston:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/1272.jpg

Assemble new rods and pistons:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/1264.jpg

Fit pistons in block after arranging ring gaps as specified. (120degrees apart and not on the thrust side)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/1273.jpg

Here you can see the oil squirter hitting the cut out in the piston:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/1274.jpg

Checking piston protrusion on all 5 to decide on headgasket- In this case we went for the thinnest gasket:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/1275.jpg

Took apart oil pump to check clearances – feeler gauge between parts to decide:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/1276.jpg

Fit oil pump assembly with metal seal, and pickup:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/1277.jpg

Fitting oil pump drive gears and chain.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/1278.jpg

Fitting tensioner guides:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/1279.jpg

Fit timing chain to corresponding marks:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/1280.jpg

The fan bearing in the timing cover sounds pretty rough so I decided to change it:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/1281.jpg

Spigot fitted to new bearing:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/1282.jpg

Timing cover with bearing fitted to block:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/1283.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/1284.jpg

Next I decided to do the head. I firstly stripped it completely, and cleaned it up. It was skimmed, and pressure tested. - when stripping the head, the pedestals, rockers, and lash adjsuters should be kept in order, and the lash adjusters should be kept upright

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/1285.jpg

2 of the valves looked a bit dodgy so I got an entire new set.
Then spent about 4 hours lapping them in:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/1286.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/1287.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/1288.jpg

Clean the main head again to remove any lapping paste residue, and build up with valves and new stem seals etc:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/1289.jpg

Fit lash adjusters:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/1290.jpg

Fit injector pedestals:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/1291.jpg

Fit roller rockers:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/1292.jpg

Oil cam journals and lower in camshaft, then apply sealant to the mating face on the other half of the head:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/1293.jpg

Fit and torque up the top half of the head, including with the rocker shaft bolts -will need to remove this to fit injectors later on.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/1294.jpg

Fit headgasket and dowels to block (Went for 2hole gasket (thinnest based on 14thou piston protrusion)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/1295.jpg

lower head on:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/1296.jpg

Torque head up in the 5 specified stages:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/1297.jpg

Fit new exhaust manifold gasket and manifold:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/1298.jpg

Fit inlet manifold gasket and fuel inlet filer:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/1299.jpg

Then oring that holds in filter:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/1300.jpg

Fit fuel regulator, return line, and inlet manifold:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/01/391.jpg

Lift cam pulley and timing chain onto front of cam - timing mark between coloured links:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/1301.jpg

Here you can see the adjustment available:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/1302.jpg

Bolt that locks the cam in position when you do this:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/1303.jpg

Fit cam chain tensioner and then tightened up cam pulley, then fitted front plug and removed locking pin

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/1304.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/1305.jpg

Injectors fitted with rocker shaft. Bump clearances need to be set now on the injectors. rotate cam to full lift, screw down adjuster screw to bottom injector pump, then back off one turn. tighten lock nut.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/1306.jpg

Exhaust manifold fitted - not shown before:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/1307.jpg

Fit the 4 glow plugs to cylinders 1-4

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/1308.jpg

Alternator and tensioner

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/1309.jpg

Injector loom

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/1310.jpg

Rocker cover:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/1311.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/1312.jpg

Solid Flywheel and uprated clutch:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/06/736.jpg

Sump and rear main were then fitted.

Final tightening of front pulley to 340lb/ft next.

Fitting engine:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/1313.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/1314.jpg

Plumbing and wiring:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/1315.jpg

Once it was all plumed, I pulled the fuel pump fuse, turned it over till it got oil pressure, then put the fuse back in, primed it and it started first go.

Finished:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/1316.jpg

[Tank]

Very good pictorial, I'd like to suggest a few tips for anyone contemplating a rebuild, it applies to all diesel engines.
It is good practice to remove all the casting flash in the sump area of the block, there was a fair bit of it in this engine, a small die grinder and a couple of hours will prevent any damage from bits of flashing breaking off.
If you have the head skimmed the machinist needs to recess the valves into the head to maintain clearance.
It is also good practice to Plastigage the crank journals to check for correct clearnces and if the crank is ground undersize make sure the machinist maintains the journal fillets to factory specs.,
Always bore fit new rings to their bores and check ring gaps, do not rely on the sizes printed on the ring packaging/brochure, better to be sure, Regards Frank.

[Psimpson7]

Yep good points, my thread wasn't that detailed! If you attempt this it needs to be done with the workshop manual!!

The recessing of the valves wasn't necessary in this case, and hasnt been on any td5 head I have been involved in skimming.

The crank was in spec in terms of journal diamater.

The removing of flashing isn't a bad idea, but I didn't do that.

edited to add,

p.s its now done about 1500km since being built with no issues (apart from a leaing pwersteering pump which I have replaced with a new one)
p.p.s a genuine ps pump from a main LR dealer is 50$ cheaper than the cheapest aftermarket pump on ebay

[Tank]

I noticed there are no locating tangs on any of the bearing shells (mains and big ends), are they located by pins through the shells, Regards Frank.

[Psimpson7]

Hi Frank,

No there isnt any form or locating tab or pin on them, mains or big ends.

cheers
Pete

[Didge]

Excellent presentation Pete, now to go get that beautifully clean motor dirty, eh?

[dirty130]

Great heads up, what was the cost?

[Psimpson7]

Ok in terms of parts and costs:

Camshaft
Rockershaft
Con Rods x5
Piston assys (inc rings and pins) +.020 x5
Main Bearing set (std)
Big End bearing set (std)
Big End bolt set
Main bearing bolt set
Thrust shims x2
Front pulley bolt
Timing chain kit (gears and chain)
Timing chain guide 1
Timing chain guide 2
Oil pump chain kit
Bolt oil pump gear
Oil pump bolts short x 10
Oil pump bolts long x 12
Timing cover fan bearing
TD5 Bottom end gasket set (all gaskets and seals for the block)
Valve stem oil seal x 10
Full set of valves
Head Bolts x12
Head Gasket (2 hole)
Rocker cover gasket
Injector seals and o rings
rocker shaft bolts etc
steel head dowels
Solid flywheel and clutch.
Thermostat
Replacement low milage set of injectors
3 hoses
hoseclamps - assorted

machine work included head pressure check clean and skim
block rebore and hone
Valves lapped

It came to roughly 5k in terms of parts and machining for the above. (There were some items in there though like the solid flywheel and clutch that came to $1100 inc shipping on their own)

I also managed to source some bargain parts, such as the new cam which came from a UK main LR dealer for under $50!

The replacement set of injectors were second hand.

If you want to work out the actual costs of just the normal rebuild parts, have a look at www.turnerengineering.co.uk (http://www.turnerengineering.co.uk)

cheers
Pete.

[goingbush]

Excellent thread filed for future reference.

Just wondering about the cause of the bent conrod, did the engine suffer a hydraulic lock up ? or do you think it was like it when you got it.
Surely not normal wear and tear !!

Also a lot of talk on the forums about de-webbing the exhaust manifold, Im considering doing to mine, Notice you did not do so, I wondered if there was a reason to not deweb ??

thanks Don

[Psimpson7]

Excellent thread filed for future reference.

Just wondering about the cause of the bent conrod, did the engine suffer a hydraulic lock up ? or do you think it was like it when you got it.
Surely not normal wear and tear !!

Also a lot of talk on the forums about de-webbing the exhaust manifold, Im considering doing to mine, Notice you did not do so, I wondered if there was a reason to not deweb ??

thanks Don

Hi Don,

In all honesty it can only be fuel / water ingestion or over revving so I will pick fuel... With the really strange issues we found inside this engine I would think the damage was already done when it was purchased by the owner (its not my car)

With regard to the webbing, I am going to go against the grain on this forum as I think it is a complete waste of time, so havent done it on either mine or this one.

neither have suffered a broken stud atall either. I did put better qulity ones in on both however when I have had them apart.

If either ever breaks a stud I may change my mind but at the moment it seems a waste of time imo. I definetely wouldn't ever drill out and fit larger studs which some people do either, but then others swear by it so who knows.

cheers
Pete

[davros]

With regards to the bent con-rod - wonder if it was a head gasket issue? When my head gasket went due to plastic dowels failing, I used to park the car when it was hot (before issue was diagnosed) then after a while when I tried to start it, it would initially stall the starter motor (lock up), then next try would usually start ok. I presume that on stopping, the over-presurised cooling system was forcing fluid back through the leak into the cylinder, causing a hydraulic lock? What cylinder was the con-rod out of, and was more than one bent? If it was the rear-most one I would suspect the cause I mention even more...

Good work by the way!

Dave

[Psimpson7]

Number 1 (front) was the (visibly) bent one on this one. It could well have been damaged from something like that. I don't think we will ever know!

[jbell110]

I rebuilt my TD5, I threw it away & put in a 4.6 V8 1/2 the price in the long run!!! good luck


Jeff

[ntguy]

Another old post,but wondering after several years how the rebuild is going?