View Full Version : 130 dc on a 110 chassis
fitzy
4th December 2011, 04:20 PM
Hi all,
just thinking of possibilities for a new build.
Could you put a 130 dual cab body on a 110 chassis and have the body mounts line up.
130man
4th December 2011, 04:42 PM
Hi Fitzy, since Land Rover actually make a 110 DC I reckon the chances of everything lining up are good.Cheers, 130man.
MR LR
4th December 2011, 05:02 PM
What about the fill in part of the 130 cab where the rear wheels will go on a 110 chassis ???
Lotz-A-Landies
4th December 2011, 05:17 PM
Hi Fitzy, since Land Rover actually make a 110 DC I reckon the chances of everything lining up are good.Cheers, 130man.The 110 dual cab is actually with a styleside ute, or more accurately the dual cab 110 is just a 110 stationwagon with a dual cab roof and rear window panel with a fill in panel below the rear windows.
What about the fill in part of the 130 cab where the rear wheels will go on a 110 chassis ???Just think 110 wagon, the doors are the same but the angled up rear corner only has a small trapesoid panel where the fill-in panel is on the 130.
Then think about the panel at the back of a single cab ute. That panel has to sit about the same space the wheelarch occupies.
If can be done but not as simply as you think. Just watch my Ikea 6X6 thread, we are about to do exactly the mods you are thinking about as the centre axle is in the 110" position.
Diana
fitzy
4th December 2011, 06:35 PM
The 110 dual cab is a great looking vehicle, but the tub is not very practiclal.
I am looking at building a dual purpose vehicle, a 110 daul cab with a tray.
I have seen a few chops on 110's but if starting from scratch, factory fit would be preferable.
Lotz-A-Landies
4th December 2011, 06:58 PM
If you already have a 110 wagon, it would likely be easier to start off with that. What you would need to acquire would be the d/c roof and rear window/corners panel. Then cut down your 110 rear tub and make up a rear wall out of sheet alloy, a few angle iron sections and stick it together with Sikkaflex and a few pop rivets to hold it together while the Sikka cures. Top that off with the capping from the rear bottom panel of a single cab ute.
That way you don't have to make the chassis/body mounts.
The tray on the back won't be very big though!
Diana
fitzy
5th December 2011, 07:02 AM
I will be using parts from my 2 door rangie, 4.6 ,zf, 30% lt230, maxi's and other stuff, all the body and chassis will be from scratch.
austastar
5th December 2011, 09:23 AM
Hi,
check your local regulations, ours are that the tray can only extend past the rear axle by 60% of the length of the wheel base.
cheers
Lotz-A-Landies
5th December 2011, 11:06 AM
I will be using parts from my 2 door rangie, 4.6 ,zf, 30% lt230, maxi's and other stuff, all the body and chassis will be from scratch.You will find that a 100" Range Rover chassis will put the rear wheels in the same space as the rear doors of the 110!
It sounds like a big job to convert a RRc to a DC defender, in fact if I were to do that I'd actually be looking at how I could re-skin the RRc doors with the Defender profile, if only because the RRc has more shoulder and footwell space.
Vern
5th December 2011, 08:21 PM
pretty sure he's using a 110 chassis as it says in the title of the thread;)
jasonedu
5th December 2011, 08:37 PM
there is a 130 chassis on fleabay at the moment. dont know if that will help you out.
Lotz-A-Landies
5th December 2011, 09:21 PM
pretty sure he's using a 110 chassis as it says in the title of the thread;)Hi Damien
Not sure which bits he's starting with ...
I will be using parts from my 2 door rangie, 4.6 ,zf, 30% lt230, maxi's and other stuff, all the body and chassis will be from scratch.
Sitec
5th December 2011, 09:22 PM
Hi!. I'm still trying to get my head around what you are looking to end up with at the end.. If you plan to use the double cab from a 130 the 110 rear axle and tyres will end up just behind the rear door and cab back panel.. The tray would only realistically be able to be 600 mm long to look right. I have a feeling you are wanting all the versatility of a 130 DC ute but without the bulk/length. When I bought mine it was on 235's with a 1850 long (and wide) tray. The vehicle felt bulky and clumsy. I've now given the nose a 2" lift to level it up, cut 300mm of the tray length so it only just overhangs the X member and sat it on 285's with wider alloys. With the spare wheels mounted on the tray, it is only about 300mm longer than a 110.. The wife will happily drive it into the center of Adelaide unfazed, and it is a totally different vehicle (check out my pics). I'd be going with a 130 chassis (ebay as mentioned b4) or 110 with original rear tub and a 4 door truck cab!! Good luck. Hope these suggestions help!
Vern
6th December 2011, 06:22 AM
Hi Damien
Not sure which bits he's starting with ...Ah, did you read the title??????:rolleyes::)
fitzy
8th December 2011, 05:32 PM
Just to clear things up.
I have a 2 door rangie which is a hamburger with the lot, but has few chassis bends and cracks . So I need to start again.
I would like to build something that I could use for social 4wding, possible winch comp and family camping.
A dual cab body withan exo cage and a tray that is more user friendly than the 110 dual cab tub.
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