Air Susp Inactive: Strut out. Airbag seems OK. No air from air-line.

[spudboy]

Following on from my intial post about locating an airbag for my 2003 Diesel L322 with 130,00Km on it, I have another question on a new topic.

BTW, as a bit of history, the drive's side front sunk down low and I got the Air Susp Inactive message on the console. Read a few posts, and it was an easy job to get the strut out.

However, now that it is out, the airbag doesn't look too bad. Bit of cracking around the fold, but it seems to hold air if I plug the hole and squash it down hard.

The yellow air-line that feeds it does not seem to be putting out any air, even though it is now an 'open' circuit (with the air bag removed). Would you expect air to be gushing out of this line if it was disconnected? I tried with just the ignition on, and also with the engine running. No air coming out in either case.

I've checked fuses 57 and 88 and they both look good. The other 3 airbags are hard as rock and no drooping on any other corner, so I am assuming the air compressor is still providing pressure.

Am starting to think that maybe some control block/manifold thing might be gummed up or something. Anyone got any hints?

BTW - we live on a farm that is miles from a dealer, so not had the codes from the ECU read. Is it going to be a case of re-assembing the strut and flat-bedding it to a dealer to read the codes, or can I trouble shoot something further back in the chain of air supply.

Thanks
David

[spudboy]

Well I traced things back a bit more and found some sort of distribution block/valve behind the driver's side wheel arch.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/l322-range-rover/41294d1323079367-air-susp-inactive-strut-out-airbag-seems-ok-no-air-air-line-l322airsuspleak-126.jpg

I have air at this block on 2 black lines, but nothing on the 2 yellow lines. See picture for which ones. I undid the brass nipples and both black lines seeped air after undoing then about 1 turn (did them straight back up again) but the yellow ones undid completely with no air released.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/l322-range-rover/41295d1323079395-air-susp-inactive-strut-out-airbag-seems-ok-no-air-air-line-l322airsuspleak-127.jpg

Does this look like the block is faulty? That'd be cheaper (by the looks) then replacing the strut!!

I can blow air through the line marked "Front Driver's side line" and it come out where I disconnected the strut, so no blockage in that line at all.

[slug_burner]

Don't reassemble the suspension until you have put some pressure into the bag with an air compressor. The compressor in your car may have been told to stop trying to pump a leaky air bag to prevent burning out the compressor and will not try again untill the fault is reset. I had a leaky D2 airbag which took for ever to find as it did not always deflate. SOmetimes the fold prevented the leak from happening. I think you need some real pressure and not just a squeeze with your hand to test the bag.

I got D2 bags from Arnotts, they were quick as I just did an online order.

[spudboy]

Hmmm - OK. But what do you think about no air coming out of the yellow air line?

I am worried that even if I buy a new strut, that without any air being fed in it will still not inflate. I would be happy to get air being pumped into the bag, and then see it had a leak. At this point I feel there is no air being fed into the bag.....

BTW - the airbag looks a bit worse for wear:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/l322-range-rover/41296d1323080261-air-susp-inactive-strut-out-airbag-seems-ok-no-air-air-line-l322airsuspleak-118.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

[spudboy]

Sorry Slug_Burner - I posted back too quickly. I see you are saying the ECU may have closed off some valve to stop the compressor burning out.

How to reset this? Dealer only? Disconnect the Battery?

I have tried a Check Control "Reset all defect codes" (option 21 from the console when in test mode).

[Homestar]

Just thinking along the same lines as Slug Burner here - could you inflate the new air spring with your workshop compressor in any way after you have fitted it to allow you to drive it to a stealer to get the fault code reset? Not sure what sort of pressure you would need, or if you could get air in there then refit the line in time, etc.

Also, have you ordered a new strut assembly, or just the air spring itself? Let us know what you end up doing here, as I will probably need to do mine sooner or later - I was thinking of getting the new style air springs that Arnotts do.

[harlie]

You will need to clear the faults before it tries to do anything. I'm not saying the assembly is not faulty but the EAS system just shuts down at the slightest hint of a problem. I would expect no air to be sent to the bag if there are faults still displaying.

[spudboy]

Also, have you ordered a new strut assembly, or just the air spring itself? Let us know what you end up doing here, as I will probably need to do mine sooner or later - I was thinking of getting the new style air springs that Arnotts do.

At this stage I am thinking of getting the whole strut, only because I can't find a supplier in Aust who will sell me just the airbag.

I emailed Arnotts in the US but never got a reply.

If you know of somewhere in Aust that I can get just the airbag please let me know!

[spudboy]

You will need to clear the faults before it tries to do anything. I'm not saying the assembly is not faulty but the EAS system just shuts down at the slightest hint of a problem. I would expect no air to be sent to the bag if there are faults still displaying.

Seems I will have to get an EAS reset device then. The car is in pieces, and we live quite a way from the dealer, so I think having our own device is going to be the answer.

Another forum member (jsp) has offered the use of his RSW AllComms unit, so I am trying to get in touch with him to see if I can organise that.

[harlie]

thats the go mate...

If you are inclined to do repair/servicing yourself (appears so...) then you need a diagnostic tool in your kit.
Have a look at:




RSW AllComs - last I heard it doesn't communicate with the TD6 engine & Trans (USA based developer with no diesels available) but does all other systems, PC based very nice to use and not VIN locked.
Gap-Diagnostics IIDTool. Does everything, it is a tiny module that displays info via the dashboard screen and steering wheel buttons, allows calibration of suspension (like Llams but better), no PC or software required, very fast, but user experience is a bit painfull due to the small screen. (What I’m using)
BBS fault mate. Unbelievably good – absurdly expensive.
Hawkeye. No PC required, generally I think it covers the early L322 well, hopeless for the P38, like Fault Mate it can cover a range of LRs

And :BigThumb: to jsp for helping, I've lost count of the number of D2 owners that have plugged into my nanocom - tend to think what goes around comes around, unfortunately for L322, the IIDTool is VIN locked.

[PhilipA]

Without one iota of knowledge on the subject, I think that that is the valve which links the FR and FL airbags when off road and disconnects them onroad to provide an anti roll bar function.
Regards Philip A

[spudboy]

And :BigThumb: to jsp for helping, I've lost count of the number of D2 owners that have plugged into my nanocom, unfortunately for L322, the IIDTool is VIN locked.

Yeah - I have a NanoCom for my TD5, and that's been used a few times by others to sort out their cars.

Don't suppose there is any chance a NanoCom will work with an L322........ reckon that's wishful thinking though :(

[harlie]

Without one iota of knowledge on the subject, I think that that is the valve which links the FR and FL airbags when off road and disconnects them onroad to provide an anti roll bar function.
Regards Philip A

bit more credit due here... think you could have it.

Spudboy - do you have a copy of RAVE? I can check when I get home tonight but the answer will be in there. Their description of EAS system is brilliant

[spudboy]

I have an old copy of RAVE that I bought from Dave's store, but I think it only has Defender and Disco data on it - pretty sure I have not seen anything there about the L322 (bought it about 5 years ago).

Perhaps I better dig it out!

Pity you can't reset the EAS from the console "Check Control" menu.

[harlie]

You need another disk, check your PM in a couple mins, it actually on the same disk as the Freelander....

[harlie]

A diog kit will also allow you to test the valves, (Fault mate and IIDTool do, pretty sure Allcomms does too), esentially you can "inflate Front Right" to show whether the valve will respond to an ECU command or not.

[jsp]

hey mate,

that block under the front drivers side footwell liner is the front crosslink valve, and it is VERY expensive for what it is. I think it was something like $450 last time I checked as I was convinced at first mine was the issue when I bought my car.

I dont know how the system works, but at rest quite often my front bags seem to be crosslinked, ie coupled to each other, and no pressure in the lines going back to the central vavle block, which is how you have described yours.

if you need a copy of L322 rave let me know.


Happy to help out if I can.

[33chinacars]

I've been using the IIDTool and very happy with it .So recommended but there are other tool out there that will also work as Harlie has said. But think you will need to reset ECU before anything will work. As for me I'd be getting a complete pair of front struts ( If thats what the problem is ) once one goes the other will surely follow. Shockers dont last forever & at 130,000 must be getting to the end of their lives.

Wrote a nice long reply last night then just as I hit send BOOM Computor down .:censored::censored::oops2: But the discusion has moved on since then

Gary

[PhilipA]

I had a read of RAVE on the air suspension, but it is not that helpful for troubleshooting IMHO.

On thing that I read is that you can put the strut back on, but you must support the car all the time before reinflating the strut. I read this as you leave the car on a jack before starting up and then remove the jack later.

In your position I would make up a connection to the airbag and inflate it with a compressor ( in water) to see if it leaks. Place a ratchet strap around it to simulate the vehicle .

I would also check the line from where it leaves the distribution block to see if the problem is not physical.

If you have done those checks and there is nothing wrong physically then you have a system problem. I guess the next suspect would be the solenoid for switching the airlines. I would disconnect the plug and momentarily touch a 12v to one terminal and earth the other. If it clicks odds are it is OK. It must be able to take quite a bit of current to operate a solenoid but the question is if it is 5V or 12V. The result should be that the yellow pipes or blocked then open or vice versa.
I think its function is to only switch and so it should not have a valve that prevents air coming through, that would be in the distribution manifold.
Regards Philip A

[harlie]

.....
I would disconnect the plug and momentarily touch a 12v to one terminal and earth the other. If it clicks odds are it is OK. It must be able to take quite a bit of current to operate a solenoid but the question is if it is 5V or 12V. ....


I would not be connecting any current to a solenoid unless you are dead sure what it uses to switch, some of the systems are even 'Hall effect'.

If you have access to (jsp) a diog kit then, fit the strut back on (jack still under), read faults, if nothing obviously major then clear the faults, turn the key on and let the system check for issues, if it’s happy start it up to see if the EAS system will operate (There’s a chance it will just level the car out like nothing has happened). Then chase the leak.

If it's not happy (or there was an obvious fault code returned the first read you would be here already) then read the fault codes, they are usually helpfull - use the testing functions to send a signal to 'Raise' the corner in Question. You should then be able to see tank pressure, compressor temp, valve status ect ect ect ect. You can then use the analytical process mentioned above (eg if it clicks but no air check for blockages…): This is exactly why the diagnostic gear have testing functions, so there is no need to short/jump circuits to test.. Currently the biggest issue is that the system is Inactive, you can't diognose anything in that state, and you sure as hell want to know why it "thinks" there is a problem (real or not).

Kinda pointless testing the cross link valve at this stage. You also can't just switch (short/jump) one solenoid to provide or remove air to a corner; you have to open the solenoid for the corner in question + the supply solenoid, (or exhaust solenoid to deflate). There is only one supply and one exhaust solenoid not one each corner. (Use the diog kit) Last time I read RAVE for EAS info was about 18 months ago, I thought it was quite clear and easy to understand.

[spudboy]

OK - I have the valve body out of the car now.

I was going to take off the alloy air tank too, to see if it had any water in it (jsp apparently got 1.5L of water out of his!) but tapping it gives a very hollow sound, so I am pretty sure it is dry inside.

The valve body has a number of tempting screws that say "undo me", but at this point I am resisting the urge to pull it apart. I am however going to try and find the pin outs and the voltages for the solenoid connectors to see if I can trigger them (am presuming it is 12V).

Here's a few photos of what's come out and where it's come from.

Top view:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/l322-range-rover/41329d1323159950-air-susp-inactive-strut-out-airbag-seems-ok-no-air-air-line-valve-002.jpg

Bottom view:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/l322-range-rover/41330d1323159972-air-susp-inactive-strut-out-airbag-seems-ok-no-air-air-line-valve-003.jpg

And this is the hole left behind under the drivers side (under the drivers seat roughtly, looking up):
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/l322-range-rover/41328d1323159927-air-susp-inactive-strut-out-airbag-seems-ok-no-air-air-line-valve-001.jpg
You can just see that the assembly is made by Wabco, and it has a BMW part number on it.

I have discovered that yellow lines are for the driver's side. Black lines for the passenger side.

[spudboy]

Here's some more information on the pins to trigger the solenoids which I have worked out.

I've tested all 4 and they work just fine when I apply 12V. So it appears I have wasted my time pulling these out perhaps (took an hour and a bit to get this far) but at least I know all 4 solenoids are triggering, so it is back to the theory that my airbag has a hole in it I reckon.

Here's a couple of pictures, firstly the rear solenoid connectors
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/l322-range-rover/41331d1323162832-air-susp-inactive-strut-out-airbag-seems-ok-no-air-air-line-valveblockpinouts-001.jpg

Then the front:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/l322-range-rover/41332d1323162857-air-susp-inactive-strut-out-airbag-seems-ok-no-air-air-line-valveblockpinouts-003.jpg

[slug_burner]

So you have established that the hardware still works, there is still some logic (CPU) and sensors that could be playing a part. It will not take much to get an adapter to stick your household compressor onto that bag to check it for a leak, I would not buy a replacement until you check it out. If you were getting paid by the hour to fault find without diagnostic tools it might be worth just swapping parts out until it works. But your not getting paid so get back to it.:(

[spudboy]

I am meeting up with John (jsp) tomorrow at lunch time to borrow his EAS reset tool, so hopefully there will be a bunch of error codes which describes the actual/original error with the system.

[jsp]

just for curiosity I found some pics.


Valve block:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/898.jpg


Just for good measure I replaced 8 o-rings

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/02/1269.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/899.jpg

The central solenoid pin thingo....has a pressed in plastic cap holding the central plunger/rod with a spring under it. The springs had rusted in mine, and become stuck through not being used regularly.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/900.jpg

You can just see the edge of the spring in this shot, I broke the top off the plastic to get to the inards. The way the unit goes together it all went back in without issues, as the top of the conical plastic piece locates in the valve block housing and the rubber still seals.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/901.jpg

Mine got an over night soak in WD40, then free'd up by hand with some help from a nail, and then cleaned out as much as possible to remove as much as possible oil, and has been working fine since so far. I know this is a temp fix but Im willing to find out how far it will go.

[PhilipA]

Spudboy, have you actually tried to inflate the bag in water yet?

To me this is a necessary first step, as you should be methodical, or you will lose the plot.

Regards Philip A

[spudboy]

Hi Phillip A,

I got 2 things organised today: Picked up an EAS reset tool from jsp, and I went to Pirtek to get a brass "Schreader" valve that screws into the airbag thread so I can pump it to a decent pressure and then test it. It has a car valve attachment on one end, so I can apply pressure with my tyre air gauge.

I was thinking 150PSI, but John/jsp said that was way too high, and to start with 60 or 70PSI only.

Now I've got to find a big bucket! Might use one of the sheep troughs :) Or Perhaps more simply some soapy water. Or maybe the leak will be obvious enough to just hear. We will see......

[jsp]

You might wish to clear faults in the lighting ecu as well as it also stores eas faults.

Did you have a go at reading faults yet?

40 or 50 psi should be enough, 25 is more than enough pressure in your tires to lift the car.

[spudboy]

Well I have found the problem, I am pleased to say.

This is my test rig for seeing if the airbag was leaking. Firstly, I fitted a Schraeder valve to the strut:

Then I clamped it down to put the bags in the middle position on the strut:

Pumped it up to 30PSI and played a bit of water over the upturned bag. You can see the results:

So, it looks like some new front struts for Xmas for my L322.

Next job is to re-fit all the things I've taken off, and try to reset the EAS codes using the SRW AllCOmms software link.

Cheers
David

[spudboy]

Well I have found the problem, I am pleased to say.

This is my test rig for seeing if the airbag was leaking. Firstly, I fitted a Schraeder valve to the strut:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/l322-range-rover/41365d1323314051-air-susp-inactive-strut-out-airbag-seems-ok-no-air-air-line-leakingstrut-003.jpg

Then I clamped it down to put the bags in the middle position on the strut:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/l322-range-rover/41366d1323314074-air-susp-inactive-strut-out-airbag-seems-ok-no-air-air-line-leakingstrut-002.jpg

Pumped it up to 30PSI and played a bit of water over the upturned bag. You can see the results - bubbles like mad from between the bag and the guard:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/l322-range-rover/41364d1323314026-air-susp-inactive-strut-out-airbag-seems-ok-no-air-air-line-leakingstrut-004.jpg

Even without the water to show the location of the leak, I could hear the air escaping very easily.

So, it looks like some new front struts for Xmas for my L322. Island 4x4 in the UK have some genuine (Delphi) OEM struts for GBP 219 at the moment (AU$340), so I am just finding out how much the shipping will be.

Next job is to re-fit all the things I've taken off, and try to reset the EAS codes using the SRW AllCOmms software link.

Cheers
David

[jsp]

No hurry on the allcoms if your busy!

Glad in a way its something simple, but still doesn't make up for the cost of bags. I would do them both personally, then again if one of mine went now I would do one because of the $$ at the moment.

if your replacing the entire assembly I would be curious to find out if you feel your handling has changed due to hte shocker being replaced - as my front struts re about 30,000k's old, replaced at a land rover dealer, and the shocks don't seem great but might just be me.

[spudboy]

Here's were we are up to now:
- put everything back together, even the leaking front strut
- Put in the fuses for the Air suspension
- Connected up jsp's AllComm connector and got that linked via the ODBII port
- Cleared EAS errors, sort of. I got an "Articulation Validity Fault" listed, and even after I have cleared the errors, I still have the same error showing on the AllComm software.
- Started up the car. The "Air Susp Inactive" message has GONE!!! YAY
- The orange LED dash lights for the air-suspension are now back on again, and the up down switch has lights as well again
- Compressor running - pumps up to pressure and switches off
- No air to any of the air springs at all :(

I just pulled the valve block again to check the central solenoid on the valve block (the one that I assume 'distributes' the main pressure to each of the 4 corners), to make sure that triggered with 12V (it did), so I can't work out why I have saggy airbags still.

I've tried switching to off-road height, and the dash says "Off-road height" and the top LED flashes (so it looks like it's trying to go up) but no pressure to the springs at all.

The whole car is up on jack stands, so there is no weight on the air springs. Is this likely to be causing an issue?

Any thoughts gratefully received!

Cheers
David

[harlie]

The whole car is up on jack stands, so there is no weight on the air springs. Is this likely to be causing an issue?





could be if the car is significantly higher than it would be normally - off the top of my head I think it's 110mm over standard height for a number of seconds it thinks it is hung up and won't do anything until it lowers (slides off the obstruction). 2nd thought - If the sensors are reading at or above standard height it won't inflate anyway.

Does allcoms give you testing options? for example nanocom will allow you to inflate a corner manually to test the valves. IIDTool for L322 let you Inflate All, Inflate Front (or rear), Inflate individual corner - its a very handy option.

Glad to see the leak was easy to spot.

[PhilipA]

My guess is that the computer thinks that the airbags have air in them and you have to depressurise them using testbook then repressurise using testbook. the suspension then also has to be calibrated using testbook.
From RAVE

Air suspension system - depressurise
and repressurise

$% 60.50.38

Depressurise
1. Depressurise suspension using TestBook/T4.

WARNING: The air suspension system is
pressurised up to:

l Up to VIN 106309 - 13.7 Bar (199 lbf/in2)

l From VIN 106310 - 11.8 Bar (171 lbf/in2)
WARNING: Ensure dirt or grease does not
enter the system. Wear hand, ear and eye
safety protection when working on the
system.

Repressurise
1. Repressurise suspension using TestBook/T4.

CAUTION: The air springs must be fully
pressurised before the weight of the vehicle is placed on them.

[spudboy]

Thanks for those suggestions Harlie & Philip.

While I was thinking about this I had an "I wonder...." moment. Because I have been playing with the AllComm unit plugged into the front drivers side and resting on the seat, I had the driver's door open.

I wondered if having the door open might be inhibiting things (it won't lower etc when the door is open) and bugger me - when I shut the door and tried it again, I got air to all airbags!!

Am VERY pleased to see this happen :)

Have just called Island 4x4 in the UK and they are getting me a shipping price for 2 new struts later today. Hopefully it won't be stupidly expensive. Some parts I have bought have been more in shipping than the price of the part.

Re the features of the AllComms, I will have to explore it a bit to give you (Harlie) an answer about the corner by corner testing etc. Haven't seen it on there, but only used it for 10 minutes.

Thanks for all the input. Very much appreciated.

[harlie]

Gold - the door! So nothing wrong with valves, just needed those faults cleared. What faults did you have?

Did you get a copy of RAVE?

Pls let us know about the struts...

[spudboy]

The fault I had (and still seem to have) is Articulation Validity Fault.

Even though I used the "clear the fault" function of the AllComms it is still there. However, the message on the dash has gone, so it must have cleared something.

I managed to get a copy of RAVE, and I've spent about an hour reading it today. The more I read, the more I think my Defender is the perfect car :eek:. An L322 is really just a mobile computer, full of sensors and busses and electrons. Brilliantly clever until it breaks!

[harlie]

Yeah - but the electronics give you some advantages as well. My point in post #20 was valid and would have saved all the time spent removing and testing valves, you would quickly see that the only issue was the leak. Disadvantages electronics brings is the whole disable everything pain. Granted coils do away with it all... But in the electronic game the first move is with a computer instead of a spanner (especially with EAS).

Articulation Validity Fault. Axle Articulation is a tested by the ECU where it compares the different pressures on an (axle) with the values from the height sensors, and / or extreme height differences between wheels on the same axle. the leak could trigger this.

[jsp]

Try clearing faults in the eas ecu then clear faults fromthe light ecu.

There is no manual control through allcoms of the eas, not like can be done with the free p38 software.

[PhilipA]

Thefault should be able to be cleared when you put in the new struts and calibrate the system.


Regards Philip A

[harlie]

...

There is no manual control through allcoms of the eas,...

Thanks for the info jsp.
I didn't go with ALLComs because of the TD6 issues, but the lack of testing functionality would also steer me else where, I actually was of the opinion it did.

Basic testing functionality, if used, can save huge amounts of time. In David's case he would not have needed to remove anything other than the strut to water test it, and even that looks like in this case it would have been audible while fitted to the car once pressurised. In hindsight, with a good diog kit from the start, the problem would have been identified within a couple of minutes – with clean hands.

[spudboy]

Just to let anyone who is interested know, the pricing for my struts from Island 4x4 in the UK is as follows:

- OEM LH Strut GBP 219
- OEM RH Strut GBP 219
- Shipping by FedEx GBP140

Converted to AUD, that totals $887, so call it $900 with a few bank fees etc.

Well cheaper than the dealer quoted price of $1650 for one strut......

[33chinacars]

Hi Dave glad to see everything sorted nearly. Great price too. Hope it doesn't take to all for new struts to arrive

Gary

[spudboy]

Basic testing functionality, if used, can save huge amounts of time. In David's case he would not have needed to remove anything other than the strut to water test it, and even that looks like in this case it would have been audible while fitted to the car once pressurised. In hindsight, with a good diog kit from the start, the problem would have been identified within a couple of minutes – with clean hands.

For sure - I am now looking at getting a kit to diagnose before I pull things apart!

Just wish my NanoCom would have an L322 option. It gets expensive having to have different units for the TD5 and the L322.

[jsp]

Well I figure for the times when somethings really wrong with the l322 I will pay a little and have the pro's look at it and read codes/diagnose for me. I have a reasonable relationship with a few places so they don't get too upset at me just getting codes read, buying a few bits and bobs and then doing the spannering myself at home.

but for the occasional use, and especially eas (as I had so much trouble with my p38 in the last few years) I was happy for the smaller price of the allcoms tool versus the more expensive other tools given how often I use them.

In 10 years of P38 owner ship I spent maybe $600 having codes read elsewhere, and I did at one stage seriously look at spending nearly $1400 on BBS gear.

Good to see your getting new struts and all will be well :) my back ones must be due soon! :(

Pity the dollars dropped, I was lucky and bought when it was 1.08 :) would have saved you another 60 odd dollars!

[spudboy]

The 2 struts turned up on Tuesday, which I was very impressed with especially as it is just a few days to Xmas. Ordered on the prior Monday, so 8 days from order to receiving the goods.

Fitting the new strut was pretty straightforward. Took about 45 minutes. Cranked everything up (and remembered to close the doors) and up she pumped.

The new strut has an "A" suffix to the original part number, and it has a few design differences, like the airbag looks like it is made of some smooth polymer whereas the original one looks like it was rubber. Fitted straight in no problems.

Many thanks to John (jsp) for loaning me his EAS reset tool. Couldn't have done it without that.

For anyone else that has the same problem, I'd rate it as a 2 out of 10 on the mechanics difficulty scale. 1 hour to pull it out. Less than an hour to re-fit. No special tools needed (apart from the EAS reset electronics side of things). 2 jacks makes it easier, as does 4 jack stands to hold the car up while you are underneath it (if you need to air down the whole system).

That's it!

I'll be fitting the next one over the Xmas break sometime as you can be sure it's not far behind the one that blew.

Here's a few photos. Old Vs New:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/l322-range-rover/41832d1324548762-air-susp-inactive-strut-out-airbag-seems-ok-no-air-air-line-rangeroverfrontstrutrepl-015.jpg http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/l322-range-rover/41834d1324548781-air-susp-inactive-strut-out-airbag-seems-ok-no-air-air-line-rangeroverfrontstrutrepl-014.jpg

And the new strut fitted back again, and aired up:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/l322-range-rover/41835d1324548803-air-susp-inactive-strut-out-airbag-seems-ok-no-air-air-line-rangeroverfrontstrutrepl-013.jpg

[harlie]

David, excellent result, well done.



Just wish my NanoCom would have an L322 option. It gets expensive having to have different units for the TD5 and the L322.
Too right, I went through the same thing, Already own a Nonocom. Gapdiognostic were talking about making the IIDToll multi vehicle usage, pretty sure it can do D3/4/RRS now (with purchase of extra license).

Thing that gets me is the kit for our other car (VW Golf) has full functionality for ANY VW Group car built after approx 2003, and forward compatible updates. That's any VW, Audi, Skoda, SEAT, Bugatti, Bentley, Lambo... and it does everything - BBS Faultmate level of coverage, all for $440, no locks, no extras, only extra cables required is if you want to plug into pre 2003 (Pre CANBUS). Vendors harp on about dev cost but I would tip that at $440 (thats from a shop in BNE, cheaper if you buy direct from US) VCDS makes it dev team more profit because every second VW owner has bought one because its very powerful, good value and not going to be obsolete when we trade on.

[jsp]

Fantastic Dave!

I can't believe how fast they got here!

I will be away until Thursday if you have issues and wish to get hold of the reset tool.

[spudboy]

I had a spare couple of hours today, so I thought I'd tackle the other strut.

No real complications, except that because there wasn't a hole in it, it was fully pressurised and I had to release this before I could undo the bolts. I found a distribution block for the front behind the driver's side front wheel (under the plastic shrouding) and I cracked the nut on the air line and waited a minute or two for it to deflate. Black lines are passenger side. Yellow lines are Drivers side BTW.

Apart from that it was pretty much a mirror image of the other strut.

One thing to note: there is a gasket on top of the strut (that does not come with the new struts) that you have to remember to peel off and put on the new strut before you fit it.

Did everything up; fired her up; closed the doors, and up she came :D Whole job took about an hour and a half from wheeling out the trolley jack to putting it back in the shed again.

So now I have a "good" spare passenger side strut if anyone wants one. Happy to give it away for nothing if you want to pay for the postage. Probably doesn't have a huge lifespan in front of it, but should keep going for a while if you are saving up for some new ones.

Cheers
David

[andrew e]

So now I have a "good" spare passenger side strut if anyone wants one.
Cheers
David

Keep it. Remove the airbag from the strut and throw in the back of the car out of the way. (like in the rear passengers 1/4 panel). The individual airbags are interchangable side for side, you just have to remove it from the strut. If you ever get a stick through it, you will have a get-me-home spare.

Andy

[spudboy]

Just a final follow up for this job.

All that I've read says the wheel alignment does not change when you replace the struts.

However, my steering wheel was a few degrees "off" when going straight down the road, so I had to get it aligned. Changed back to road tyres at the same time, so the MTRs are going to be retired now. Bit too noisy for everyday driving....

[olbod]

G'day.
I dont know anything about these L322 Jitnies and I am thinking of getting one.
Question, Is there an EAS bypass type kit available for the L322, like there is for the P38 ?
Tar.
Robert.

[Homestar]

G'day.
I dont know anything about these L322 Jitnies and I am thinking of getting one.
Question, Is there an EAS bypass type kit available for the L322, like there is for the P38 ?
Tar.
Robert.

Not that I'm aware of, but the EAS on the L322 works differently to the system on the P38. If you have an issue with an airbag on an L322, then the computer will lock that corner out and leave the rest raised, so the whole car doesn't drop to its stops like a P38 will, you will just get a lop sided vehicle which you can still drive to a repairer or home.

[andrew e]

I had installed a bypass in my car, but I had troubles as the eas in the 322 runs at near 50psi more than a p38 - 188 psi.

It also is a smarter system than the p38. I thought I would tale some load off the compressor after I drained the system. I pumped up the main tank with the shed air line, only to be confronted with a fault AIR PREASURE INCREASING WITHOUT COMPRESSOR RUNNING.

I will have another go at it soon.


Andy