Fitting fixed glass in rear - process?

[Skiboy]

Is there any special process/approach to fitting the rear glass in a 109 hard top and rear door (see pics below).

I have the walls/door all ready to fit the glass and have the rubber but wondered if there is a special technique or tool needed?

Wall section and door below

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/804.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/805.jpg

Thanks in advance guys

[JDNSW]

Yes to both. It is described in the manual. I don't know if the tool is available
(described as an "insertion tool" p/n 262771) but you should be able to make one if fairly handy.

The groove is put on the outside, with the join at the bottom. Fit the rubber to the panel, and trim to size, allowing 25mm overlap and compressing the rubber to get it in (this is important as fitting the glass will push it further into the hole in the panel, and otherwise you will have a gap. Fit the glass, using a flat piece of metal to pull the lip over the glass. Insert the filler strip starting opposite the join. Allow about 6mm overlap when trimming the end. Soapy water may make the whole process easier, if a bit messy.

Hope this helps,

John

[Blknight.aus]

since its out....

if you're going to do the soapy water trick do it on a tarp on a table with the glass and the frame flat.

[Xtreme]

The way I've seen it done is by using a piece of string/twine.

The 'H' section rubber is fitted to the glass, the string is then wrapped around the outside section of the 'H', the glass, rubber and string is then aligned closely with the hole in the panel and then as the string is pulled out - sort of at right angles to the glass/rubber - it drags one 'leg' of the 'H' section of the rubber over the edge of the cutout. Once the string is pulled right out it's then just a matter of inserting the filler strip which should tighten it all up.

Seen this principle utilised by windscreen fitters and once you have the technique right it's really quick and easy.

[Skiboy]

The groove is put on the outside, with the join at the bottom.
Hope this helps,

John
John

When I removed the window the joins were at the top? The stage 3 manual I have which only has a pic of the window not instructions shows the join at the top?

So not want to question you as to me it makes sense to be the bottom but that is not what I see?????

Thanks everyone else - very helpful - yes will do on the bench and will use soap - might try the string technique yet.

Skiboy

[Tombie]

Use XTREMES method...

[B.S.F.]

Have a look in the archives. Put in "diamond lacing tool".There is a post by 123rover50 that explains why you should have the filler strip on the inside.

[jerryd]

I purchased the tool from the uk to do the leaking window rubbers on my elevating roof, although I haven't even opened it yet :angel: It's supposed to make the job really easy.

Let me know if you need a pic of it and I'll post one up.

[JDNSW]

John

When I removed the window the joins were at the top? The stage 3 manual I have which only has a pic of the window not instructions shows the join at the top?

I quoted from my Series 2a manual. Actually, I doubt it makes a significant difference whether the join is top or bottom - unless the ends are square and tight together it will leak.

So not want to question you as to me it makes sense to be the bottom but that is not what I see?????

Thanks everyone else - very helpful - yes will do on the bench and will use soap - might try the string technique yet.

Skiboy

Again, I quoted from the manual about fitting the glass - I had forgotten about the string technique, as it is forty years since I have used it! I agree that is the way to go.

The book says to put the filler strip on the outside. This is probably to make it easier to fit with the panel on the vehicle. The reason for putting it on the inside, is to slightly increase security, as the glass can be removed by prying out the filler and then the glass with a screwdriver. But the improvement in security is not going to be all that great, as even if installed the other way, the glass can be easily removed with a Stanley knife. But I cannot see any drawbacks to putting it on the inside, except that it will make it a bit harder to remove or replace the glass if you have to, once the panel is on the vehicle.

John

[clubagreenie]

The diamond lacing tool is available from clark rubber (as is the rubber). Else make one by getting some flat 3mm plate cut into about 200mm long and about 50mm from one end taper off to a point. Filing the point round then drill a hole a mm or 2 larger than the filler strip. Put the strip through the hole and hold the tool on about a 60deg angle (from horizontal and still use the soapy water and spray bottle) start at the top opposite the join in the main rubber and about 5-10mm across from centre and push the tool in to spread the opening and push in the filler. Pull the tool about 10-15mm and continue to push the filler in. When you reach the top compress the starting end and cut off the tail with about 5-10mm over and try to work as long a tail into the grove as possible.

[Skiboy]

Thanks everyone - very helpful.

Raining here right now so tempted to have a go with the glass today

.... or ...... do I watch the tapped 7's Rugby from SA?

Might grab the Clark Rubber tool as I need some more rubber anyway as I think I only got enough for the rear windows which was before I decided to use the top of th rear door as the rear for the cab wall.

Thanks Again - might post some pics when I do this

Skioby

[clubagreenie]

Note the 200mm long piece of plate should only be about 50mm wide. I'm just picturing someone with a 200 x 500 plate attacking their window.

[Skiboy]

Note the 200mm long piece of plate should only be about 50mm wide. I'm just picturing someone with a 200 x 500 plate attacking their window.

Yeh I held fire on making that as could not picture it. I looked up Diamond Lacing tool as suggested - in the process found a post where someone talked about taking their glass out to get it tinted - what an ah ha moment that was.

Given I am in Qld and HAVE the glass out for the rear 3 windows while painting I think I should get them tinted first THEN fit.

So thanks again for the help - better soln on the way.

I plan to ...

(1) Get glass tinted
(2) Grab some more rubber and a lacing tool at the same time from Clark rubber
(3) install the rubber back to front so glass can't be removed from outside (for all the protection that gives - will also be fitting kill switch and a dash flashing alarm light!)

Will post pics when doing/done as a help to others.
Thanks
Skiboy

[clubagreenie]

Yes you tinter will also thank you.

Maybe should make up a few lacing tools for sale.

[Skiboy]

Clubagreenie - you can buy a set of 3 on ebay for 39 AUD plus shipping.

Not sure worth the time making anything.

Will see what Clark have them for - if stupid then will make something using and old screwdriver as the base.

Skiboy

[drifter]

I saw a youtube clip not too long ago where someone was doing it with a 8mm ring spanner

[Skiboy]

Ok found I already had all the rubber - must have ordered it with other parts earlier this year.

BUT can't find one of the rear windows. I have put it somewhere "safe" ready for assembly and forgot where the safe was and it was not with the other two windows.

So until I find the missing window I cant get them tinted and won't be assembling.

Going to be a big tidy up in the shed this week I think.

Skiboy

[JDNSW]

......

BUT can't find one of the rear windows. I have put it somewhere "safe" ready for assembly and forgot where the safe was and it was not with the other two windows.

......
Skiboy

:D:D:D

Been there, done that!

John

[drifter]

I removed one of the rear windows to get the rubber profile. I carefully stacked the glass where it wouldn't get broken and got a mate to match the rubber for me - came in at less than half the price of the usual retailer...

That was over a year ago and I still haven't removed the other windows, painted the top and re-installed. I have this fear of dropping a window while installing it and breaking it...

But I do know where the removed glass is - I can see it from where I sit :)


One day... I was thinking of getting one of those glass suction tools to hold the glass while installing... Any way I look at it I can't see it being a job that can be done with only two hands.

[Skiboy]

JDNSW - yes very frustrating when you forget your best laid plan to ensure you don't forget where something is located.

In my case it was in the first box I had looked in - but at the bottom so simply had to dig deeper - of course in the mean time I have searched every nook of the shed, under the stairs and the garage!

So the window is now found and all three are cleaned and ready for some tint tomorrow.

I also went to Clarke rubber yesterday - they had no idea what I was talking about - most useless service etc etc
Went to another local independent rubber place and the guy could not be more helpful - although when he rang the supplier about the diamond lacing tool he and I almost fainted - $109!!!! No thanks. So will be using the 8mm spanner technique first or failing that making my own with an old screwdriver and some wire welded on.

Bought some heat/sound deadening while there and some grommets. So can now line the rear bulkhead behind the seats.

One unexpected advantage of "misplacing" the window was that the search took me through all my boxes of parts and found I had bought new seals from the UK so did not need any new rubber! Bonus!

Drifter - yes I suspect it is a 4 hand job if in the truck. I have the luxury of having the wall sections and door on the bench so will be doing it there - maybe in the weekend if get the glass back from tinting tomorrow/Friday. The rubber suction things are pretty good - used one to pull out a dent in the Rangie ute the other day!

Will post pics when doing the task as possible help to anyone else.

Skiboy

[Skiboy]

Picked up the windows today - hopefully after chores might get some installed today.

Can't do the rear door as need to give it one more coat of paint and I only I pick that up tomorrow.

Side rear glass
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/589.jpg

Rear window/door
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/590.jpg

SKiboy

[Skiboy]

Ok was away over Xmas and New Year so nothing done on the car. On Sat my son came over and we finished off the window installation for the rear door and side windows.

This was easier than I thought it would be but that was partly because we had the panels flat on the table - this would definitely be harder if trying to install the glass with the panels in situ.

Step One: Cut the rubber
I had an old rubber to check measure from and took someone’s advice on an earlier post and cut the rubber about 1-1.5 cm longer than it seemed it needed to be to allow for compression into the corners (even though I held the corners tight when I measured).
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/01/1096.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/449.jpg

Step Two: Fit rubber to the frame
Someone had suggested putting the rubber around the glass with a string and then use this to pull the rubber onto the frame. This was too fiddly to get it to stay in place and the slot for the frame is MUCH smaller than the slot for the glass so I fitted it the other way around - the rubber to the frame then the glass to the rubber.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/01/1097.jpg
Note as suggested on another post and earlier I put the rubber in backwards so that the bead is on the inside making it harder for the glass to be removed from the outside.

Step Three: Fit glass to the rubber
You can pretty much get three sides into the rubber just with your hands leaving the fourth side to be pulled out and over the glass.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/01/1098.jpg
I used a set of circlip pliers to pull the rubber up as they are round and easy to grip – they proved to be a valuable tool.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/01/1099.jpg

Step Four: Insert the ‘diamond” shaped bead to the rubber
I decided not buy the diamond lacing tool for $98 at the local rubber shop! So I had to improvise – version (1) was the circlip pliers – they were OK but did slip out a bit. Version (2) was a bit of coat hanger wire bent into a triangle. It worker ok but was hard to do alone as needed both hands on the wire.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/01/1100.jpg
Still got the first window done.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/01/1106.jpg

On the second window I had an idea and made a new tool out of an old tooth brush cut into a triangle head. This was great as it had a nice handle and if I did slip did not mark anything.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/01/1102.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/01/1103.jpg

We both finished off the last rear window – this took a while for the beading as a larger window but still worked the same. I left a longer overlap on the rubber here about 2-2.5 cm as a longer run to hide the excess in.
We are now in assembly mode. Modified tub (shortened front and rear) on first!
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/01/1104.jpg

[drifter]

Thanks for that - very clear and informative.