View Full Version : Defender Steering Wheel Removal..........
jerryd
11th December 2011, 11:34 AM
I need to remove the steering wheel from a '96 Defender 130, is it simply a case of prizing out the "landrover" center logo in the middle of the wheel and finding a nut to undo :confused:
I don't want to damage it if possible
dmdigital
11th December 2011, 12:36 PM
Yes and you may to give it a bit of shove to get off the splines. The nut takes 22mm socket from memory.
Behind it you will see a blue plastic ring on the shaft, this is the indexing ring for the indictors. Note which way the little arrow is pointing and make sure it is that way when you put the wheel back on. Otherwise the indicators will not auto cancel.
Xtreme
11th December 2011, 01:01 PM
The Defender steering wheels that I've taken off (2003 model) have required the removal of the whole rectangular (about 150 x 80mm) plastic centre including the LR Logo.
And once the nut is loosened but still on the shaft, you may need a mate to pull on the wheel while you belt the shaft & nut with a BBH.
Bearman
11th December 2011, 01:25 PM
Better to use a puller to remove the wheel if it's tight rather than belt it with a hammer. If you have to use a hammer make sure it is a bronze or nylon type that wont damage the shaft or thread. Even a small bit of hardwood between the shaft and hammer if you don't have a soft headed one. Use a white marker pen to mark it's position before you remove it and smear the splines and thread with never seize when you put it back on to make it easier to remove next time.:)
numpty
11th December 2011, 01:38 PM
I cant get mine off. I've been running it with the nut loose for months and every so often have another go with nil result, using all of the aforementioned ideas.
Bugger of a thing :(
harro
11th December 2011, 01:58 PM
I made up a puller with a small strip of 4 mm plate with 2 holes in it.
Put it accross the top of the splined shaft after you have removed the nut.
The two holes must be drilled to match the two holes in the steering wheel either side of the splined hole.
Then find two bolts to match the thread in the holes in the wheel about 20mm long, put them through the holes in the plate and screw them into the holes in the wheel then gradually turn them alternating between each bolt to keep the pressure even.
This will pull the wheel off.
Mine is a 2002 defender.
Cheers,
Paul.
Don 130
11th December 2011, 01:59 PM
Yes, prize the logo out and with the nut backed up, but still on, try a lifting and rocking from side to side motion. this worked quite quickly for me. A few drops of penetrating oil (WD40) and some time for it to soak in may help.
Don.
jerryd
11th December 2011, 03:07 PM
Got the wheel off with no problems :) but I need to remove the ignition / steering lock etc to enable the column to come through the firewall.
Never seen these sort of fixings before neither :confused::confused:
numpty
11th December 2011, 03:47 PM
I made up a puller with a small strip of 4 mm plate with 2 holes in it.
Put it accross the top of the splined shaft after you have removed the nut.
The two holes must be drilled to match the two holes in the steering wheel either side of the splined hole.
Then find two bolts to match the thread in the holes in the wheel about 20mm long, put them through the holes in the plate and screw them into the holes in the wheel then gradually turn them alternating between each bolt to keep the pressure even.
This will pull the wheel off.
Mine is a 2002 defender.
Cheers,
Paul.
Yep. Have tried that too :(
dmdigital
11th December 2011, 04:13 PM
Oh and when you go to put it back on rub a little never seize onto the splines for next time.
wrinklearthur
11th December 2011, 06:08 PM
Yep. Have tried that too :(
Hi Numpty
When confronted with a shaft or bolt that wont budge, I do it up tighter and give it a whack to force it even tighter again, this will crack the bind.
Then undo the nut a couple of turns only and use a puller if possible, or that rocking motion mentioned before, while tapping briskly using an old half inch drive extension, a socket with a sacrificial nut on top of the original nut, ( that has only been loosened a couple of turns, ) the socket should then bottom out onto the sacrificial nut before touching the steering wheel hub.
Don't take the nut completely off and pull because if the wheel does come quick, you will be sorry, look ugly, have a broken nose and be with two black eyes. :eek:
Another trick, is to use on the shaft some freeze spray.
rovercare
11th December 2011, 06:32 PM
The most stubborn steering wheels, I've held one side as hard as I can pulling in the off direction and flogged 180 degree side with a large rubber mallet
numpty
12th December 2011, 12:55 PM
Hi Numpty
When confronted with a shaft or bolt that wont budge, I do it up tighter and give it a whack to force it even tighter again, this will crack the bind.
Then undo the nut a couple of turns only and use a puller if possible, or that rocking motion mentioned before, while tapping briskly using an old half inch drive extension, a socket with a sacrificial nut on top of the original nut, ( that has only been loosened a couple of turns, ) the socket should then bottom out onto the sacrificial nut before touching the steering wheel hub.
Don't take the nut completely off and pull because if the wheel does come quick, you will be sorry, look ugly, have a broken nose and be with two black eyes. :eek:
Another trick, is to use on the shaft some freeze spray.
Have tried the first and I do have a little experience in stubborn fasteners :angel: but I will try the freeze spray
The most stubborn steering wheels, I've held one side as hard as I can pulling in the off direction and flogged 180 degree side with a large rubber mallet
Have done this too but have not necessarily been brutal enough.
Tombie
12th December 2011, 01:03 PM
The most stubborn steering wheels, I've held one side as hard as I can pulling in the off direction and flogged 180 degree side with a large rubber mallet
Similar method..
Nut almost off (but still engaged a thread or 3)
Arms under the wheel like you're holding a tray..
Rapid movement of arms towards your face alternating between them
banging as hard as you can as fast as you can... (watch out for your stalks)
I've never had one not come off....
flagg
12th December 2011, 05:52 PM
In an attempt to not be dodgy, I went and purchased a puller.
It was crap, and I went the bolts trying to get it off. Then I put new bolts in it and stripped the thread on the thing itself.
yay!
So I've ordered an much stronger looking one from ebay..
rovercare
12th December 2011, 06:22 PM
In an attempt to not be dodgy, I went and purchased a puller.
It was crap, and I went the bolts trying to get it off. Then I put new bolts in it and stripped the thread on the thing itself.
yay!
So I've ordered an much stronger looking one from ebay..
Ok, first you've been told how it's done, without a puller, but if you'd like to use one, you need to add tension then beat the steering wheel, your trying to break a seized joint, many various pullers and depressors are ruined by thinking they do all the work
archieaja
27th August 2014, 03:13 PM
Don't take the nut completely off and pull because if the wheel does come quick, you will be sorry, look ugly, have a broken nose and be with two black eyes. :eek:
I know this is an old thread but I looked it up because I had the same problem as the original poster.
I REALLY wish I had read the quoted comment. Currently sitting on the couch feeling sorry for myself with a bag of half frozen peas on my face. OUCH!
JDNSW
27th August 2014, 04:15 PM
....
I REALLY wish I had read the quoted comment. Currently sitting on the couch feeling sorry for myself with a bag of half frozen peas on my face. OUCH!
I take it you managed to get the wheel off?:D
John
wrinklearthur
27th August 2014, 11:25 PM
Oh dear!
.
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