200 TDI Wont Start

[Siska]

A couple of days ago had a major water leak from my new to me 200 TDI Defender. It turned out to be the welch plug behind the timing case. I have replaced the welch plug, put the timing case back on, pump gear, cam gear and crank gear back on and installed the timing belt. All seems to be in correct allignment.

Just for peace of mind I wanted to fire the car up and shut it down to make sure i hadn't somehow rotated the crank one turn. It turns over but won't start. I removed the belt and rotated the crank one turn, reinstalled the timing belt. It still turns over but won't start.

I checked power to the injector pump, that is fine. Checked fuel to all injectors and that seems fine.

Is there something I'm missing? What am I doing wrong? Had quite a sleepless night trying to figure out what/where I've gone wrong.

[Blknight.aus]

crack the injector lines, first check that its putting fuel to the injectors.

your probably out 180 degrees on either the cam or the injector gear.

[87County]

Hey Dave, if he's 180 deg out won't a couple of pushrods be bent at least ?

might be best to examine them & the rockers before trying another start with the belt adjusted 180 deg

[Siska]

Pretty sure injector pump and cam gear are right. Had the injector pump pinned, and cam gear is aligned with the arrow on timing case. I have photos on my phone but can't figure out how to get them easily on tge forum as I'm at work atm

[nobbyclrk]

to make sure i hadn't somehow rotated the crank one turn


It would not matter if the crank had been turned once or three times (avoiding valve clash of coarse). TDC#1 is still TDC#1 in crank/piston position.



180 deg out won't a couple of pushrods be bent at least ?



Is that not just half way through an engine cycle?
In other words that is the engine cam/crank alignment every other rotation of the crank.
720* crank rotation to 360* cam.
360* of the crank is 180* on the cam.

[alexturner]

Check the fuel solenoid on the IP.

Is it coughing/farting at all or simply not starting? Try redoing the timing - use a steel ruler to ensure the timing marks are all correct. Using a 9.5mm drill bit as the timing pin on the Injector pump. It should be a snug fit.

When I did my timing i found that even when I was a few degrees out the engine wouldn't start without any symptoms - just seemed as if there was no fuel supply.

Check the little things, like the fuel solenoid cable, then re-do your timing.

[Blknight.aus]

the cam can be 180 out to the injector pump
the crank can be 180 out to the cam/injector pump

if that happens then you wind up injecting at the end of the exhaust stroke and the start of the intake

if the pump is 90 degrees out then you wind up injecting at BDC.

all highly unlikely but possible

most likely its a case of the IP not injecting the simple test is to pop the injector lines at the injectors and crank it over.

[nobbyclrk]

Siska,
you may already know this and you may of done it, but there's no harm in repeating it.

After you have installed all the timing componants and secured all the gears, idlers, tensioner etc, it's good practice refit the crank bolt and pulley and rotate the crank two revolutions by hand (ignition off) in direction of rotation. Everything should align up exactly again and tension should still be correct and assembly can be finished.
If not, you know you made an error somewhere and can correct it early. Many times it will look perfect until it's rotated.

Not trying to teach yer granny to suck eggs an' all that. :)

[Siska]

Got it all sorted today. Turned out that someone in the past had put a locking pin/drill bit in and tried to turn it over with out removing it. So there was a fair bit of play there. I didn't realize that the pump would try rotate, so took that it was nice and tight in there and must not have noticed it move when I removed the timing belt. So once the injector gear was set to the right place it all fired as it should do!

Happy days!!!