Ser 2a Build up Thread

[Landygirl]

Ok so never done one of these before so it should be interesting.

I live on the south coast of NSW and picked up a bargain!! Had to pick her up from Cessnock in the hunter. 6 Hours drive each way with the car trailer being pulled by a cruiser HJ60. Decided to go the day before and camp out at the watagans which was nice.

So we get there and its been sitting on the guys property for about 6 yrs, so it was filthy and rusty and basically didnt look too good. There wasnt much rust in the chassis only the usual under the radiator, the doors were beyond repair and it looked like it need to good clean and paint.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/670.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/671.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/672.jpg

We get it on the trailer with some major effort and the help of a winch. Interestingly had to stop in the middle of newcastle for some road side mechanics when we ended up having death wobbles (tie rod end fail) on the HJ, luckily being a staff member of repco i had an easy time finding the parts.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/673.jpg

Finally home with no brakes or clutch and no way of getting it down my very steep driveway we leave it on the trailer at the workshop.

Next day i get in there and give it a good look over. Someone had the idea of putting in Falcon AU seats which they had fixed to a bracket and welded to the seat box (not the brightest thing ive ever seen). With the help of an angle grinder and a die grinder i finally got the seats out only to find a few dead rats and some nesting that looked like it had many yrs spent on it lol.

After that it was time to get the vacumn out and hose it as best i could. After a good clean we filled up the brakes and bled them giving us some sort of braking.

Getting it down the driveway was interesting being that it didnt have a starter motor i borrowed one for it and did manage to get it fired up n running a few times but there was a lack of spark so ended up having to roll it down the driveway with me steering and on the brakes!!
The scariest thing i have ever done to date.

[d@rk51d3]

Looks good. Keep the pics coming. :cool:

I know what you mean about dodgy seats. Mine had a couple of bucket seats in the front. All held in by a couple (literally) of tek screws. The passenger seat even had a baby seat fitted to it. :eek: That, coupled with no seatbelts ............:o

[Landygirl]

Child seats not such a good idea.

loads more pics coming just stupid internet not uploading them very quickly! think its time i upgraded!!

Got pretty far with it so far so have pics of each stage coming soon

[Mick_Marsh]

I take it it is a late 2a shorty.
Ex mil?

Looks an interesting Landy.

[Landygirl]

So there was a bit of rust in the Chassis but nothing major very lucky i think. The firewall not so good thou had bit rust holes all down the passanger side and the rubber has perished

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/663.jpg

So now its time to take her apart and see what we have underneath. Started by taking the guards off, Grille, basically stripping it down to nothing but a chassis, wheels and engine etc.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/664.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/665.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/666.jpg

Removing the ute tub and seat box was a bit of an effort someone maybe original had used sikaflex to hold it all together. mission and a half!!

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/667.jpg

Then it was time to remove the firewall which means removing the master cylinders, steering etc. Brake master had been leaking everywhere so was nice and gooey under there.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/668.jpg

So we are down to a chassis and a firewall

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/669.jpg

[Landygirl]

I take it it is a late 2a shorty.
Ex mil?

Looks an interesting Landy.


Yes its a 1968 not ex military unfortunately just a wanna be but going to be changing the front end back to original lights in the grille not the guard, personal preferance :D

[Mick_Marsh]

Some 2a's had the lights in the guards and that is one of them.
Here is another.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
Yes, it is a 2a. I don't think there were many series three workshops. I suspect there were none.

[Landygirl]

So the firewall came out, did it on my own so was interesting. Bit of sliding and guiding n hoping it didnt end up through the wall.

Doesnt look too bad now its out hopefully can save it









https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/650.jpg

down to just the chassis and engine now. Time to take it to the workshop for the engine to come out and chassis welded!

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/651.jpg

So at the workshop i put it on the hoist and took the leaf off with all the axle and wheels still attahced makes transport easier :D

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/652.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/653.jpg


Time for the engine to come out, in comes the forklift so all we did was disconnect the tailshafts and leave the engine, gearbox, over drive etc still attached to make it easier to put back together

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/654.jpg

left in capable hands (mainly coz the welder scare the be jesus outta me) the chassis was welded up by a friend. Awesome job btw as u will notice from the pics below, bearing in mind there was a pretty big hole in 2 places, one under the radiator and one on the chassis end where the bull bar was attached.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/655.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/656.jpg


so now its time to start painting and fish oiling to prevent anymore rust and get her back together

[Landygirl]

Some 2a's had the lights in the guards and that is one of them.
Here is another.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
Yes, it is a 2a. I don't think there were many series three workshops. I suspect there were none.


Yep usually the late 2a had the lights in the guards but when they put the 6cyl 173 in they put the different guards on it as they thought it would help with engine cooling. but mine definately came out with the grille lights as i have checked it against the chassis number.

I dont know what you mean by workshop thou

[Mick_Marsh]

Another view of the Workshop Landrover.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

The guards you have might be a sought after item for a military enthusiast with one of these late 2a wide light Landrovers.

[Landygirl]

So i painted the chassis with underbody deadener as well as the leaf, diff and axles.

Once all back together i sprayed it all over with fish oil

A drill and wire wheel came in very handy with all the cleaning










https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/641.jpg

I resprayed the Holden 173 Red engine in the usual holden red

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/642.jpg


Wire Wheeled, degreased and cleaned the gearbox and all surrounding

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/643.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/644.jpg

Painted the shocks with rust kill just to give them that edgy look. the paint i used was called wilderness it came out pretty good

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/645.jpg

Next i decided that the panels where so crappy looking id find out how much i could get Army Olive Drab paint for and do a bit of home respraying.... until i got out the Kitten cut and polish and WOW did they come up good. When look at the pics below please refer to the first pics to see just how much of a difference the cut and polish made. Now im just going to touch up a few parts with the colour thats already on it and leave it for a while before i respray.

Before and after on the tailgate

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/646.jpg


Guards

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/647.jpg

Bonnet came up good

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/648.jpg


i was very suprised how good the radiator guard came up.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/649.jpg

Once its all back together i will be giving it a good wash and another cut and polish just to give it that extra awesome look.

[Landygirl]

Another view of the Workshop Landrover.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/remlr-general/27691d1281437019-history-s2a-workshop-dscf0964s.jpg

The guards you have might be a sought after item for a military enthusiast with one of these late 2a wide light Landrovers.


Ah ok yeh it looks really kool.

The guards will be up for sale once its registered and have finished the brake upgrade etc, wanna get the more important things done first.
Would like to keep the military cut guards but without the lights in it even thought about keeping my ones and blanking them off and putting the lights back in the grille. But lots to do before i get to that

[numpty]

Nice work :BigThumb: Keep it up ;) At least you have a decent workshop to operate from.

[pfillery]

Am I missing something here - the amount of rust in the doors seems uncharacteristic for an aluminium skin. Are they steel skinned doors and if so is this normal? I thought they were all alloy....

[JDNSW]

Ah ok yeh it looks really kool.

The guards will be up for sale once its registered and have finished the brake upgrade etc, wanna get the more important things done first.
Would like to keep the military cut guards but without the lights in it even thought about keeping my ones and blanking them off and putting the lights back in the grille. But lots to do before i get to that

If the chassis number prefix is G or H then the lights should be in the guards. To change to lights in the radiator support, that panel will need to be changed for an earlier one.

The rusty door skins suggest that the doors have been reskinned with steel at some time - not particularly uncommon - my Series 2 had the RH door thus when I bought it s/h in 1963. The doors as built have the frame steel and the outer skin Birmabright alloy.

John

[pop058]

Some 2a's had the lights in the guards and that is one of them.
Here is another.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=41500&d=1323780072
Yes, it is a 2a. I don't think there were many series three workshops. I suspect there were none.

Mick,

they made 40 S3 workshops, all as cab chassis variants. Rear platforms off earlier workshops and trailers were then fitted.

Landygirl,

looking good, keep the pics and info coming :)

[Dinty]

G'day All,
Landygirl, you should have give me a nudge, I could have taken you to Edden St Bellbird where the vehicle was, I looked at it sometime ago as I was told about a swb ex-mil Land Rover, I drove out to look but didn't get out of my 110, as it wasn't ex-mil.
I can tell you it has not been there 6 years, at that location maybe 5-7 weeks??, anyway thats past history now, your project is coming along well, keep at it, cheers Dennis:angel:

[Mick_Marsh]

Mick,

they made 40 S3 workshops, all as cab chassis variants. Rear platforms off earlier workshops and trailers were then fitted.
I think you will **** they were actually 2A's. at least this wide light workshop was.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

I'm off to REMLR just to double check.

I can only find fourteen of them on REMLR. I had heard there were about 40 of them
178-033, 178-042, 178-044, 178-050, 178-051, 178-054, 178-056, 178-058, 178-066, 178-067, 178-068, 178-069, 178-032, 178-065

Sorry to hijack the thread.
Please resume normal service.

[Landygirl]

Am I missing something here - the amount of rust in the doors seems uncharacteristic for an aluminium skin. Are they steel skinned doors and if so is this normal? I thought they were all alloy....


Not normal no they should be alloy but in this case i believe there has been some cut and shut!! i think someone at some point has decided to replace the alloy skins which basically ruined the doors

[Landygirl]

Nice work :BigThumb: Keep it up ;) At least you have a decent workshop to operate from.

Thanks im loving every minute of it, my bank account isnt so happy thou :D


Well only for the chassis part ive been doing it all in my garage which is starting to look like its going to need a very good degrease and high powered wash!! lol mainly rusty radiator water and grease and oil from every part of the car bar the engine lol

[Landygirl]

G'day All,
Landygirl, you should have give me a nudge, I could have taken you to Edden St Bellbird where the vehicle was, I looked at it sometime ago as I was told about a swb ex-mil Land Rover, I drove out to look but didn't get out of my 110, as it wasn't ex-mil.
I can tell you it has not been there 6 years, at that location maybe 5-7 weeks??, anyway thats past history now, your project is coming along well, keep at it, cheers Dennis:angel:

Yes i didnt mean it had been sitting there for 6 yrs it was at his brothers before he had it and he moved it to his house to sell it. It not ex military thats true its more of a military wanna be which is unfortunate but it doesnt bother me. Good to know there someone else out there who had seen it. I must admit when i went there i wasnt expecting much but once i got it home i realise that for $500 it was a steal, the engine is pretty much spot on and there really wasnt much rust compared to the other million i had looked at.

It has already been registered with the 173 so theres no need to get it engineered and as i said it cost me bugger all! had a good camping trip back up to the old stomping ground too so all worked out great.

He was very upfront about the car never claimed it was ex military and i am now friends with him on facebook so he can follow the project and has been a great help. He basically told me it was a massive effort to get it back to rego and kept asking if i was sure it was right for me.

I think because i was female he may have thought it would all be too much but with my mechanical back ground, friends in the business, a friend who restores land rover (currently has a jacked up ser 2a on 33's with a 202 supercharger and full military suspension) as well as the fact that i work for repco and have access to an account with BMI nothing has been too much. and having a great forum for the added help too.

[Landygirl]

If the chassis number prefix is G or H then the lights should be in the guards. To change to lights in the radiator support, that panel will need to be changed for an earlier one.

The rusty door skins suggest that the doors have been reskinned with steel at some time - not particularly uncommon - my Series 2 had the RH door thus when I bought it s/h in 1963. The doors as built have the frame steel and the outer skin Birmabright alloy.

John

My chassis number has a B at the engine which means it originally had the inner lights but they changed to military guards to aparently help stop the engine over heating mainly because they put a newer 4 cyl radiator with really crappy fans in it, so i will be changing that back to the inner lights and putting in a 6 cyl radiator and adding a large thermo fan to ensure engine cooling.

I do think the fact that when i opened the thermostat housing there was no thermostat may have had something to do with it but as for why they would take it out is beyond me!! lol

[Mick_Marsh]

My chassis number has a B at the engine which means it originally had the inner lights but they changed to military guards to aparently help stop the engine over heating mainly because they put a newer 4 cyl radiator with really crappy fans in it, so i will be changing that back to the inner lights and putting in a 6 cyl radiator and adding a large thermo fan to ensure engine cooling.

I do think the fact that when i opened the thermostat housing there was no thermostat may have had something to do with it but as for why they would take it out is beyond me!! lol
The chassis no shouldn't be at the engine. That would probably be the engine number.
It should be on a front spring hanger. You'll need to show that for registration.

[Landygirl]

The chassis no shouldn't be at the engine. That would probably be the engine number.
It should be on a front spring hanger. You'll need to show that for registration.


Yes fully aware of where it is! unfortunately my auto correct isnt quite so informed lol.

Engine = End lol

[Mick_Marsh]

Yes fully aware of where it is! unfortunately my auto correct isnt quite so informed lol.

Engine = End lol
My mobile was totally useless for writing text messages until someone turned the pre-emptive text off.

[Landygirl]

My mobile was totally useless for writing text messages until someone turned the pre-emptive text off.

Theres actually a site dedicated to auto correct its great for a laugh

Damn You Auto Correct! - Funny iPhone Fails and Autocorrect Horror Stories (http://damnyouautocorrect.com/)

Slightly off topic but worth it i think even if it bring only one smile :D

[pop058]

I think you will **** they were actually 2A's. at least this wide light workshop was.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=41516&stc=1&d=1323855106

I'm off to REMLR just to double check.

I can only find fourteen of them on REMLR. I had heard there were about 40 of them
178-033, 178-042, 178-044, 178-050, 178-051, 178-054, 178-056, 178-058, 178-066, 178-067, 178-068, 178-069, 178-032, 178-065

Sorry to hijack the thread.
Please resume normal service.

Definitely S3 (mine is 1981) and yes 40 were made.

[chazza]

I do think the fact that when i opened the thermostat housing there was no thermostat may have had something to do with it but as for why they would take it out is beyond me!! lol

Taking the thermostat out is a dodge when the engine is overheating - your plan to install a bigger radiator and thermo fan is a good one.

Just to confirm that the chassis no. should be on the LH rear spring hanger,

Cheers Charlie

[JDNSW]

The chassis no shouldn't be at the engine. That would probably be the engine number.
It should be on a front spring hanger. You'll need to show that for registration.

No. If it is an Australian assembled 2a, it will be on the LH rear back spring hanger. Home market ones had it on the front hanger.

John

[Landygirl]

Decided to get the front passanger wheel off seen as the brake was binding up and there was oil n grease leaking everywhere.

The drum was interesting to get off the manual didnt help in anyway, for starters it was missing a hub bolt, then i had to screw a bolt into the drum to remove it (manual said it had a small screw) no matter how i adjusted it the adjuster wouldnt wor properly so the shoes got stuck in the drum as i was removing it nothing a big screwdriver couldnt fix but finally got it off to find the shoes covered in dirt and grease, wheel cylinder intact and not leaking so it appears the axle is leaking.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/620.jpg


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/621.jpg


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/622.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/623.jpg


So i now have some axle seals and will be cleaning it up and putting it back together until i get the parts for the brake upgrade.

Firewall has been welded and looks great (dont have pics yet) so i decided to start putting her back together. Ute tub back on and seat box back in, the transmission tunnel will need some tiding up as someone decided to butcher it to fit the overdrive lever.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/624.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/625.jpg

Next thing to do is fix the axle seals and put the firewall back in while i wait for the paint to touch it up.

Well this is as far as ive got, i have new extractors for it and have to have an exhaust system made up for it, put in the new brakes. The brake pipe which should be here today but the nuts for it not too sure on where to get them but i can figure that out while i am still deciding whether to do the single or dual circuit.

[Landygirl]

Ok so i managed to do the oil seal at the back of the hub, tbh i didn have a clue what i was doing so i just kept pulling things apart until i found what was looking for, so hopefully ive done it right and the wheels dont fall off.

For now ive left the shoes and wheel cylinder off and just put the wheel back on so that i can just put the new brakes on when i get them.

Got a few parts today wasnt much but still exciting. Fuel filler hose and breather hose, shackle bolts and nuts, steel brake lines, flared nuts and some more shackle bushes.

Now off to do the seals on the other side!!

[Landygirl]

ok so turns out the seal i got even though it was the right one wasnt for the right area. So replaced both on both sides now i have to dismantle the swivel and check out the seals in there see where the leak is actually coming from.

Was fun learning thou and i found out that the hub has a slight problem the small row of pins in the hub that keep one of the gears in place has fallen apart and the gear was flapping round in there like a dry fish, so i believe its called the hub driving member. Which is good to know now rather than hearing it flap around when i finally drive it and put it into 4wd.

So tomorrow is the hunt for the seals i need after ive pulled it all apart.

For now its a very good shower considering i am covered in Moly grease but at least it just looks like glitter

[Landygirl]

Got the firewall back and its been welded up great! looking good!

Feeling so much better having it somewhat back together

[Landygirl]

Decided that seen as ive been doing all the messy mechanical stuff id go for the electrical next seen as it was in such a mess, well i ended up with hands blacker than when i was working on the grease covered parts, after removing all of the covers on the wires to see what i had i found lots of bit of wiring that didnt go anywhere or were damaged to the point of no return.

I have now gone through and soldered and replaced some of the wiring and followed what i had till i figured out where it all went. The rear indicators and tail lights are now attached but havent hooked up the battery yet so not sure if it works.

With the help of the Haynes manual wiring diagram ive now got most of it back together although there are a few bits that i didnt quite understand but seen as it was getting late and ive been working on it all day i thought it was time to turn in for the night

must admit its very hard to stop but when u start soldering the wrong things and u keep losing your tools then you know its time to stop :D

[Landygirl]

well the whole wiring thing hasnt clicked yet. Concerntrating on the lights for now and have had a couple of people explaining how to do it.

Basically what they said is to use 2 relay with power, earth and then run the low beam off one and the high beam off the other and also run it to the switch which btw hasnt worked yet.

but i was working monday and tuesday and was working on it later in the evening so hoping a fresh start this morning is probably a good idea!

If anyone had done any wiring before and has any advice it would be greatly appreciated

[Johnno1969]

Hey the rebuild really looks to be coming along. Good stuff.

One pic in the early posts interests me. It's of one of the doors. I know that the aluminium in Landies can get damaged by electrolysis between the Birmabright and steel - but the door skin appears to be rusted. Is that just electrolysis discoloured by the rust in the steel frame?

Cheers,

John

[Landygirl]

Hey the rebuild really looks to be coming along. Good stuff.

One pic in the early posts interests me. It's of one of the doors. I know that the aluminium in Landies can get damaged by electrolysis between the Birmabright and steel - but the door skin appears to be rusted. Is that just electrolysis discoloured by the rust in the steel frame?

Cheers,

John


No its actually some very unclever person who decided to replace the original alloy door skin with metal one so there was no saving it.

ive only had the car just about a month and half so yeh its coming along very quickly

[klonk]

Hi Landygirl

Doing a good job on the rebuild.
I had a holden 161 in a S2a and I put a torque grind on the cam shaft when I did a rebuild on the engine, It made a big difference off road and on road. But dont let anyone talk you into putting a power cam in, if they dont understand the differance try someone else.

Also I put a ball bearing in the flywheel for a spigiot bearing mine had a brass bush,it makes gear changes so much better, it was a holden flywheel and a common bearing, sorry cant remember what size it was.

Cheers Steve

[Landygirl]

Hi Landygirl

Doing a good job on the rebuild.
I had a holden 161 in a S2a and I put a torque grind on the cam shaft when I did a rebuild on the engine, It made a big difference off road and on road. But dont let anyone talk you into putting a power cam in, if they dont understand the differance try someone else.

Also I put a ball bearing in the flywheel for a spigiot bearing mine had a brass bush,it makes gear changes so much better, it was a holden flywheel and a common bearing, sorry cant remember what size it was.

Cheers Steve


Did u convert the flywheel to holden? technically the pressure plate should be the only thing thats holden unless it has been converted?

The engine has already had a rebuild aparently so not really planning on doing anything to it just yet. will be giving it a good service and checking it over thou just to be safe. my plan eventually is to either buy or build a super charger for it.

Right now its just a case of getting it through rego so i can actually drive her then start gradually building her up

[Xtreme]

Following this thread with interest.

Great progress in such a short time - congratulations and well done.

[Johnno1969]

No its actually some very unclever person who decided to replace the original alloy door skin with metal one so there was no saving it.

ive only had the car just about a month and half so yeh its coming along very quickly

Yeah, I thought it did rather look like rusted steel.....

Looking at your thread, you are racing along. A month and a half? Crikey. I keep changing my projected finish date on my IIA.. Currently, it's Easter. Or sometime after that.....

[klonk]

Landygirl

My landy had a holden flywheel fitted by someone else and one tonner clutch cover, didnt know any better then, was a shocker though, would have been better with a clutch switch on the dash rather than a pedal. I think there are better options.

Forgot to say that I also used to add a tube of wynns gear suppliment to the gearbox and transferbox. used to come in a purple tube but I havent seen it around for a while. Could have a conversation with passengers at 60mph in overdrive.

Be carefull fitting a supercharger it has landrover axels remember, more torque needed ,not more power.

Cheers Steve

[Landygirl]

Landygirl

My landy had a holden flywheel fitted by someone else and one tonner clutch cover, didnt know any better then, was a shocker though, would have been better with a clutch switch on the dash rather than a pedal. I think there are better options.

Forgot to say that I also used to add a tube of wynns gear suppliment to the gearbox and transferbox. used to come in a purple tube but I havent seen it around for a while. Could have a conversation with passengers at 60mph in overdrive.

Be carefull fitting a supercharger it has landrover axels remember, more torque needed ,not more power.

Cheers Steve


We have some of that at repco in lots of different brands so it should be pretty easy to get hold of.

A friend of mine already has done the whole supercharger thing on his 2a 109 that he has been building since he was 14 so i have a good base luckily