EAS unlock software knowledge?

[PeterAllen]

Have a EAS Fault today.
Down on the bump stops and arranged a tow home.
Hooked up the EAS software but am having problems getting it to read and rectify fault.
Am using a USB to serial to plug to the OBD to car and irrespective of what port we elect for the USB on the computer the software will only communicate on comm3, unfortunately comm 3 is inuse on the computer and cant use it for the USB selection.
When we follow U tube steps the TX and RX readings are the same and are usually a sequential number with either a 1 or FF following eg 25 FF, 26 1, 27 FF, 28 1, etc.
These numbers just keep going and not sure if they are suppose to stop or continue as they may just indicate the communication betwwen the software and the car.
Whilst this is running we can list a heap of faults and can clear them from the screen but this has no effect on the car EAS fault, Also have sequential numbers in the boxes being 248, 249, 250 etc.
Not sure if I have a dud connection or what. Any help or explaination appreciated.

[adm333]

What version of windows are you running on the laptop ?

If its windows 7, it can be tricky to get the USB cable working properly if it's 64 bit.

Otherwise you can go into device manager -> advanced and set a new port for the USB cable, one you know you can use in the eas software.

Dave

[PeterAllen]

On this laptop its Windows Vista.

[adm333]

Ok, have you tried manually changing the comm port ?

From memory the unlock software lets you pick from 1 to 12. You have to get the USB cable on one of those ports for it to work.

[adm333]

Sorry I re read that you have changed the comm port.

I have not seen the eas software default to only one port. When I use it I can select any from 1 to 12.

[PeterAllen]

thats the bizarre thing about it. If on the laptop you select the comm port say comm 2 and then go into EAS and select comm 2 it will TX but will not RX. If without changes the comm port selection on the computer but just change the selction on the EAS for comm 3 and run the software it will initialise and TX and RX problem then is every second number in the RX will have a number 1 after it rather than the FF (EAS says that all readings in the RX should be FF and not numbers. Cant see why it is communicating on a Port that the USB isnt located on

[adm333]

No it is not communicating properly.

I have one or two different versions of the eas tool, have you tried any other ones ?.

Also try rebooting laptop with cable plugged in, you need to persevere to get the comm ports matching.

[PeterAllen]

no only the version i downloaded today.
will try again tomorrow and shut down and restart computer and see what happens.

[adm333]

I have had a closer look, and your description of the Tx and Rx sounds right actually. See the attached screen shot I took from a session.
This is what it looks like in proper communications, it keeps scrolling through and adding a line about every second.

As long as the Rx continues to respond with the FF, then it should be OK.

As they say, if the RX side starts showing numbers or only shows numbers where you see the FF then it is not communicating properly.

[whisky_mac]

The USB connection could be at fault. I had to change my cable before it would work. Without going out to the car, the cable form the OBDII comes out to a plug which then is plugged into the USB adapter which is then connected to the usb on the computer. Very cumbersome, the cable relay needs to just terminate in the USB connection.

Jim

[PeterAllen]

We are going to try on another computer and have sprayed and cleaned the OBD connection in the car.
Will let you know the outcome.

[PeterAllen]

No luck again, just has PP in the RX column. We see if I can find a laptop or pc with serial connection and try again'

[parasnoop67]

Tried mine with serial to usb adaptor but process stalled part way through.
Then tried with an old Dell with serial port and it worked.
NB. the cable that I bought from uk was not wired correctly so a new plug was fitted to it with the wires in the correct places.
Adjustment was easy after the correct set was achieved.

[PeterAllen]

Have now found an old laptop with serial connection and have downloaded EAS on to it. Check continuity of the OBD to serial connector last night and it all proved out OK.
Will test tonight and see what happens

[PeterAllen]

Success, The problem must have been with the Serial to USB cable.
Ran the EAS and cleared the Hard fault, fault indicated a stuck valve so will now look at getting a valve rebuild kit from Paul at Hard range and see if that fixes the problems.
Guess what I am getting for Christmas??:D

[parasnoop67]

Good luck with it, when that works for you it gives you more confidence to make adjustments.

[wayneg]

Success, The problem must have been with the Serial to USB cable.
Ran the EAS and cleared the Hard fault, fault indicated a stuck valve so will now look at getting a valve rebuild kit from Paul at Hard range and see if that fixes the problems.
Guess what I am getting for Christmas??:D

This is a good lesson to all. These cables are not all made the same and the one sold By Hard Range is worth the little extra compared to the cheaper ones on e-bay.

The Valve Block re-build is a right of passage that will prove your worthiness. Happy Re-building

[PaulP38a]

A tip when running EAS Unlock under Windows Vista or Windows 7 - set the properties of the EAS Unlock software to run in XP Compatibility mode and also to "Run this program as an administrator".

Most common USB to Serial adapters run the Prolific PL-2303 chipset. download the latest version of the Windows drivers from Welcome to Prolific (http://www.prolific.com.tw/eng/downloads.asp?ID=31)

Thanks for the kind words about the Hard Range cables Wayne. We had some quality problems with the first batch, 3 or 4 failures out of 100 cables, and one slipped through to a customer :o
Subsequent batches have all been good, and I now have a much faster and more effective way of testing cables.
Still looking for a smarter way of testing USB-Serial adapters though, as a quick comms check will prove it talks in both directions ok but does not simulate use of the adapter for extended periods which is when problems sometimes occur, although I suspect this is often a software issue.

oh yeah, another tip... if EAS Unlock crashes mid-use as it sometime does, you may not be able to communicate on the comm port unless you physically remove the USB-serial adapter and use Windows Task Manager to kill the EAS Unlock process. The other way is to reboot the PC/laptop.

Cheers, Paul.

[DT-P38]

The Valve Block re-build is a right of passage that will prove your worthiness. Happy Re-building

Finally sourced a spare Valve Block (and a ABS Modulator) for future "swap out" use by VIC mates of Hardrange and should be doing my first rebuild at some point over the next 3 days... any bets on my likely "sit down to stand up" rebuild time from those who have done it?

[PeterAllen]

finally got around to the rebuild of the valve block tonight.
haven't re installed as yet and will get to that tomorrow.
Noticed that one of the stems of the solenoid had quite a different construction to the others . most had an outer spring on the seat of the stem but one had an internal spring in the stem and lacked the springyness of the others.
Has anyone else had different stem constructions or noted variations??;)
I think it was in the third big solenoid from the small one on the top.

[PaulP38a]

The inlet and exhaust valves have the "big rubber foot and no external spring" type plunger. What I call a Type 3 in the schematic below:
http://paulp38a.com/gallery/d/5454-1/EAS-ValveBlock-v1_4_001.pdf

There should also be a link to the schematic from my EAS Valve Block renewal page at EAS Valve Block Renew « PaulP38A.com (http://paulp38a.com/99p38a/eas-valve-block-renew/)

Cheers, Paul.

[PeterAllen]

By the way Paul, thanks for that very helpful tutorial on the whole process, made the rebuild a lot less daunting. Most of my o rings seemed in good condition and certainly not brittle so I do not know if this will remedy the EAS problem. If nothing else I will know to look elsewhere.
Before I ran the EAS unlock to depressurise last night I ran the faults again and only came up with "7 vehicle moved" and a number 128 in the second box, any ideas?

[PeterAllen]

installed the valve block this morning and fired up the car. No faults came up but nor did anything else for some time.
After about 10 minutes the drivers side front and rear rose dramatically, ( about high setting or higher) the passengers side remained at about access height.Checked height sensor readings and as expected 150+ on the drivers side and 70-80 on the passengers side (readings from unlock software not actual heights).
Check callibration and adjusted all setting as follows
High Front 154, Rear 135
Stand Front 130 Rear 114
hwy Front 114 Rear 100
Access Front 80 Rear 68
After setting and going to various heights selection there was very little movement when going from one to the other.
Ran faults again and came up with nothing...no errors.

Have I missed something or does this mean I failed the valve rebuild test.

[parasnoop67]

Are you sure all airlines are in their correct holes.
Got my front ones crossed up once and got a result like yours.

[PeterAllen]

Yes double checked that all. Could something stuffed up in the valve block cause this. Cars pumps up ok albeit slowly but standard height is all over the place and doesnt seem to react to changing of setting in the callibration, Tried changing standard height settings to no effect ...whats the story with this??

[PaulP38a]

Hi Peter - it is quite likely that you have accidentally swapped the solenoids around.
From an empty tank and on bump stops, the EAS should take around 5-7 minutes to lift the car to standard height. The rear lifts partially first, then the front.
If yours is lifting the drivers side only, chances are that the top two solenoids for the air springs are swapped, i.e. rather than forcing air to Rear Left it is going to Front Right.
The reason it lifts so high is that it is trying to get the Rear Left height sensor to the target height.

Easy mistake to make, having done it myself also ;)

Cheers, Paul.

[PeterAllen]

Thanks Paul,
If that is the case then the solenoids were in the wrong spot from when we bought the car and we numbered everything as suggested before stripping down and all is where it was. I will do the swap over and see what happens. at least I can do it without pulling everything out again

[PeterAllen]

Hi Paul, hope you can confirm for me that there is not suppose to be a square type rubber seal at the bottom of the solenoid covers. I noted a square groove that could house a seal but dont have any on mine and there wasnt any in the packet of O rings sent.
Just wanting to make sure I have all the pieces and not missing something

[PeterAllen]

Tried swapping the solenoids around and tested it resulting in the drivers front and back pumped up so looks like the solenoids were in the right place the first time round. Will replace as original and try again

[PaulP38a]

Hi Peter, from memory, only the diaphragm solenoid cover has a rubber seal at the base. the o-ring kit does not include a replacement.

Cheers, Paul.

[PeterAllen]

Thought it worth finishing this off with the final results obtained today.
After some very helpful revisions with Rupert Prior ( many thanks Rupert) the fault was localised to Front Right Solenoid not working, probable weak compressor , no air actually going to Front right airbag and probably leak in air bag.
Rupert diabled the system manually pumped up the airbags and I went home to re examine the valve block and Front Right Solenoid. 10 km down the road both front bags are down to the stops...getting use to this now.

Today pulled down the valve block again. Only takes me a few minutes to remove now and pulled apart the Solenoid. Everything looked in place, clean as a whistle and still we have problems. Rupert advised that you can do a quick test of the solenoid by feeding the connections for the solenoid with a twelve volt feed. I tested the solenoid and still no action. ( no clicking)
Pulled down again and pulled down the solenoid next to fully compare every item.
The culprit.... on the top of the lower peice of the solenoid shaft ( the bit with the spring around it) is a black rubber cap that sits flush on top of the shaft. This lower shaft slides inside the upper part of the shaft and is not visible unless you take the shaft apart.
On the solenoid that was not working, the cap was not seated flush and was easily placed back in its correct position. once back in place, solenoid works, air goes to front bags, car pumps up, standard height reached in a few minutes and I can't help but begin to smile.
Still have issues to sort out and probably will replace the airbags soon but for now I am off to Qld.
Thanks again to Rupert for his help and advise and a few tricks to try out.

[wayneg]

Great news, you have passed the right of passage! It took me two attempts and a little help to get it right after crushing one of the very thin seals.
The front airsprings will be a walk in the park after after this

[Hoges]

Thought it worth finishing this off with the final results obtained today.
After some very helpful revisions with Rupert Prior ( many thanks Rupert) the fault was localised to Front Right Solenoid not working, probable weak compressor , no air actually going to Front right airbag and probably leak in air bag.
Rupert diabled the system manually pumped up the airbags and I went home to re examine the valve block and Front Right Solenoid. 10 km down the road both front bags are down to the stops...getting use to this now.

Today pulled down the valve block again. Only takes me a few minutes to remove now and pulled apart the Solenoid. Everything looked in place, clean as a whistle and still we have problems. Rupert advised that you can do a quick test of the solenoid by feeding the connections for the solenoid with a twelve volt feed. I tested the solenoid and still no action. ( no clicking)
Pulled down again and pulled down the solenoid next to fully compare every item.
The culprit.... on the top of the lower peice of the solenoid shaft ( the bit with the spring around it) is a black rubber cap that sits flush on top of the shaft. This lower shaft slides inside the upper part of the shaft and is not visible unless you take the shaft apart.
On the solenoid that was not working, the cap was not seated flush and was easily placed back in its correct position. once back in place, solenoid works, air goes to front bags, car pumps up, standard height reached in a few minutes and I can't help but begin to smile.
Still have issues to sort out and probably will replace the airbags soon but for now I am off to Qld.
Thanks again to Rupert for his help and advise and a few tricks to try out.


Good news indeed...glad you got it fixed!
FWIW Re. the black rubber cap...had similar situation. Used a (very) small dollop of superglue to keep it in place... ;)

[PeterAllen]

Took the risk and drove up to Qld last Sunday. Got to Macksville and had a EAS fault 55 kmph message. Said the left front valve stuck. so reset the fault and took off. after about 30km the system failed to reach full pressure and faulted again although I had retained some air in the bags so given the decent roads, ignored the fault and continued to Brisbane and then on to the Sunshine cst.
On Monday I stripped the solenoid that was suspect and sure enough the little piston cap had moved again so glued it in using a little gasket sealer..no super glue handy.
Reinstalled and all was good. travelled over 150km whilst up there no problem. Feeling confident all was well travelled back to Sydney and mysteriously had a further EAS Fault ( just out of Macksville)
Reset the fault ( RR solenoid stuck open, RR solenoid stuck closed) and set off again. System pumped up and had no further issue.
When it faults again I will take all the solenoids for the airbags out and glue those inner piston caps in place.
Anybody have a clue on what they actually do other than soften the hit of the piston when it moves up the cylinder? Would like to know why if it is slightly out it stopped the solenoid altogether.