PDA

View Full Version : Shifting boat position on trailer



LandyAndy
18th December 2011, 07:59 PM
Hi Guys.
I need the boat to sit at least 200mm further back on the trailer,300mm would be better.
When hitched to the D2,I cant slide my 80LT Engel out far enough to open the lid fully to get my bait and beer out:mad::mad::mad::mad: I have to unhich the trailer or slide the boat back,done both!!!!
My trailer is fully adjustable,Im thinking move the winch post back 200mm then adjust the rear slides as need be.
Thoughts please,see pics.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/489.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/490.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/491.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/492.jpg

The setup at the moment is excellent for solo launch retrieve,the boat sits perfect as you winch it up.
Andrew

Bearman
18th December 2011, 08:12 PM
Maybe not that simple Andy. The boat has to sit in a position on the trailer that gives full support to the keel and transom. By moving it backwards that distance you may not have sufficient transom support and end up with a curve in the hull where it is not supported and the weight of the motor pushing down. Even though your keel rollers are adjustable you may need more support at the transom if you move it back further. I reckon the simplest way would be to extend the drawbar the distance you need - or put the Engel in the boat:D

LandyAndy
18th December 2011, 08:29 PM
Cheers Brian.
Im a newbie so I ask before doing.
Engel isnt going in the boat,permanent fixed in the D2,I doubt it would handle the salt in the boat;););).Have a nice 150lt icebox for the boat;);););)
It isnt too much a hassle to unhich the trailer to gain acsess on hard flat ground,dont need to release the saftey chain or trailer wire.
Thanks
Andrew

130man
18th December 2011, 08:30 PM
Hi LandyAndy, another thing to consider is keeping an adequate downforce on the tow ball. I would think moving the boat back would lessen this , but it may not make much difference. Trying it will tell. Cheers, 130man.

d3syd
18th December 2011, 08:41 PM
Agree with Bearman. Only thing I can think of is to weld a 300mm extention onto the drawbar.

Tombie
18th December 2011, 08:44 PM
How far do u need?

Extend the draw bar... :-)


"Where the Desert meets the Sea"
'Did I mention some great 4WDriving is just 5 minutes from home?'

LandyAndy
18th December 2011, 09:02 PM
You lot and another mob have convinced me,extend the drawbar;););)
Whilst Im at it I will also add a swing around extension and dolly wheel for North West and South Coast beach launches.
Thanks for the input,any more is welcome.
A JOB FOR WINTER;););)
Andrew

Bearman
18th December 2011, 09:13 PM
There is another alternative to welding the length needed onto the drawbar and that is making it an extendable drawbar. By this I mean a length of gal RSJ that fits inside the drawbar and is adjustable via a bolt/pin that locks it in the position you want. That way you tow it at the normal length and when you want to get some bait or a coldie from the Engel you undo the bolt/pin and slide it back a little. This alternative is also a bonus when doing beach launches as you don't have to have the tow vehicle in the water. :)

Blknight.aus
18th December 2011, 09:26 PM
if you do go that way it also allow for some seriously long pull backs of the boat trailer if you make it up right....

a pair of reece pins and you can simply attache the eyes of either end of a recovery strap, winch rope, custom made rope length of chain or any combo of the above to recover the trailer.

if you get a decent jocky wheel (and the double wheeled pnuematic jobbies are just the ticket) you can tow it pretty much as far as you like so long as you dont go too fast or expect it to turn to quickly.

http://t1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRxkAtTbFJuZaUabv9zQCRqZ7_4iEYTN mivMiTrNRfzYMziL1ENgA

one like that also has the advantage of having a levering bar so you can move it around by hand as needed.

slug_burner
18th December 2011, 09:46 PM
As far as keeping weight on the tow ball , you should be able to slide the axle back on the trailer. How much of the rear end of the boat can be left hanging is dependant on how the boat has been made. My FIL's boat had a pod extending the outboard mounting point so that was always going to hang out the back.

roverrescue
20th December 2011, 12:29 PM
Andy,
Just to throw a cat amongst your already made pigeons.
Extending the bar is a valid but more involved way of fixing your problem!!!

Being a stacer hull the keel line tapers towards the transom such that the rear most centre rollers do not touch the keel. The entire transom is supported by the two longitudinal rails. I would chuck the tinny on the ground, remove the two longitudinals, replace them with 3x2 hardwood planed smooth on the top side which are 500mm longer overal all than what is on at the moment. Bolt them back on with 300mm extending to the rear and effectively 200mm extra to the front. Then slide the winch post back 300mm and the axle bogey 300mm to the rear and your done.!!!! Depending on ball weight you could play with the axle bogey to get your ball weight right. The hull will be supported exactly as it is now, no weding or changing of brake cables required.

For flat beach launching a good technique is to weld a stub axle to a flat plate and clamp that to the draw bar near the winch post. Then put a whole matching hub assembly onto the stub axle. When you need to flat beach launch, put the spare onto the new hub and you have a three wheeled trailer that can be pushed/winched/pulled to the water and dragged out with the vehicle 30m or 300m away if need be. Also you are carrying a full spare hub assembly... much quicker than changing wheel bearings on the side of the highway!!!!

S