Brake pad wear indicator alarm

[400HPONGAS]

How does one temporarily bypass this warning , as Ive stuffed one of mine from not putting it on properly. Ive just changed the front and rear discs and pads and the brakes are sweet . Cant get another sender cable until after XMAS .
Possibly join the two wires ? Seperate them ? one or both to earth ?
Just need a quick fix to get rid of the Boinging !!!

[PhilipA]

Well usually they just go to earth when the pad wears down, so in older cars if you just fold it out of the way and insulate it you should be OK.

BUT who knows with a D3 or whatever you have. They probably over complicated it.
Regards Philip A

[400HPONGAS]

Seems to be the opposite , PhillipA

The front brake pad wear sensor is connected in series with the rear brake pad wear sensor, between the instrument
cluster and ground. When a brake pad incorporating a brake pad wear sensor is approximately 75% worn, the brake pad
wear sensor goes open circuit.
So ,it comes on by loosing an earth,thus kooseing the circuit
There you go , they did overcomplicate it
interesting !!!

[oldsalt]

Just do what they always do in the good "action" flicks ... cut the BLUE wire !!!!!! :D

[PhilipA]

The front brake pad wear sensor is connected in series with the rear brake pad wear sensor, between the instrument
cluster and ground. When a brake pad incorporating a brake pad wear sensor is approximately 75% worn, the brake pad
wear sensor goes open circuit.


I think they have it arse about.
How could they have something at first closed circuit then open circuit?
The wire HAS to come in from the top or back of the pad, It cannot come in from the front!!!!!
The rest of the description is how 99% of the world's sensors work, and if you substitute closed for open it makes sense.
Try tying it out of the way.
They must have X gens writing their manuals.
Regards Philip A

[400HPONGAS]

Well Phil, these new fangled things arent the same as our old RRC's .Looks like you will need to get an upgrade on how these new fangled CANbus systems work. Got the right wiring diagram ,the sensors are in series and are/is normally closed. Break the circuit and the imbalance load will have the canbus polling a fault, or in this case the ,the low brake pad warning .
Remember its a 2 wire to the Pads system , not a single wire .
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/438.jpg

[Nomad9]

Hi 400HPONGAS,
I broke my rear one whilst travelling along the GCR last year, I had an intermittent contact which was driving me nuts. In the end I just cut the wires at the back of the sensor, the light was on permanently but the boinging stopped. I've got the long range tank on mine and getting to the connector is a right pr!ck of a thing if you have arms bigger than a six year old. I imagine if you have the spare wheel dropping that off will make the job a lot easier. The front one you have to take the inner guard off. I ended up breaking the catch on the one on the back because it was such a pain, it is now held together with a cable tie, works fine, just isn't what I had planned on.
Hope that helps.

[400HPONGAS]

Thanks Nomad9 , Ive found the answer to the tempory fix question . All I had to do was read "Bodsy's Brake Bible" and there it was . As Ive told PhillipA , its a two wire CANBUS system so all you need to do is cut the wires and splice the two of them back together . From Bodsy's Brake bible !!!A must have document from DISCO3.co.uk

N.B. If you DON’T want to have brake pad wear sensors enabled, then simply cut the old sensor at an
appropriate point between the end of the sensor and the connector and join the two resulting wires
together. Seal with waterproof tape or sealant and tuck up out of the way. It will think that the circuit is
completed and therefore that the brakes are OK.
If you take this option, you must ensure that you regularly check your brake pads and disks and take any
necessary remedial action as the car will no longer warn you of imminent wear

[PhilipA]

Geez, I must be old fashioned.

Electric handbrakes that stuff up.
Trailer wiring that you need to buy stuff for.
Brake pad sensors that rely on CANBUS .
Suspension compressors to stuff up.
Body off to fix a turbo
Noisy diffs
Front ball joints and bushes that stuff up
18 radiator hoses



I think I will keep the old RRC.
Regards Philip A

[Geedublya]

Geez, I must be old fashioned.

Electric handbrakes that stuff up.
Trailer wiring that you need to buy stuff for.
Brake pad sensors that rely on CANBUS .
Suspension compressors to stuff up.
Body off to fix a turbo
Noisy diffs
Front ball joints and bushes that stuff up
18 radiator hoses



I think I will keep the old RRC.
Regards Philip A


Good idea, keep it and stay in in the RRC forum.

[400HPONGAS]

Im hearing you Geedublya, LOL ,
poor old PhillipA , he only Trolls the D3/D4 Forums so he can add to his list of reasons to keep the old RRC going , Ive still got my 88RRC hiline for real bushbashing and a D1 TDI Ive had from new and the D3 TDV6 which is really SWMBO's car.