disco rear diff donut guide removal

[Bearman]

I know I have seen this explained somewhere but for the life of me I can't find where. I have a disco rear diff (donut model) and want to change it over to the standard type 4 bolt drive flange. To do this I need to remove the pivot post bit that is pressed into the 3 bolt flange. What is the best (easiest) way to get it out. Not concerned about damaging it or the flange as I just want to use the diff housing and cw&p.

[Blknight.aus]

generally I grab them with my welding vice grips and then belt the buggery out of it in a circle if you dont want to save it.

fit that fails, heat the flange with a hot air gun and go again...

if that fails make up a puller like you're supposed to.

once its out replace all the parts but hang onto the 3 bolt flange, you may need the slinger off of it to take the place of the slinger on the 4 bolt flange.

[Bearman]

Thanks Dave, I have a hot spanner so will give it a mild heat up and then belt it.

[Casper]

Undo the tail shaft from the brake drum and remove rear axles, undo all bolts holding in the diff, toss the whole lot in the steel scrap bin and go get the one with the damn Uni joint on it.

That damn rubber ring is a PITA, I have lost count of how many I had to replace before I changed my diff and tail shaft and have forgotten all about it until now.

You can go to all the trouble of just changing the drive flange but it's pretty cheap and easy to just throw in the whole diff assembly and keep the other as a spare complete unit behind the shed.

Cheers Casper

[Blknight.aus]

hmm an $800 minimum fix vs a $400 one if your using new parts. (and thats after the refund for a complete exchange diff.

[B92 8NW]

I am surprised this keeps coming up as an issue.

I have got a fair bit of spring lift in the rear (as in cross a 100 series LC arse with a horse in season... now double it) and my donut is perfectly fine, haven't changed it in the 120,000+ km I've had the car (could even be original)

[B92 8NW]

It's worth noting that these same donuts have been used on BMWs and on both ends of the shaft on Mercs since the seventies putting out up to 550Nm.

Is everyone using the OE German made one or the much cheaper crappy ones?

[It'sNotWorthComplaining!]

Only Buy GKN made in Germany ones, all others are not same quality.
I have compared GKN and aftermarket ones, GKN are stiff rubber, the cheaper ones I was able to flex using my one hands, a big shock when you actually have them both in hand

[It'sNotWorthComplaining!]

Only Buy GKN made in Germany ones, all others are not same quality.
I have compared GKN and aftermarket ones, GKN are stiff rubber, the cheaper ones I was able to flex using my own hands, a big shock when you actually have them both in hand

[Jojo]

I haven't had any donut troubles at all, only changed my first one recently at 300.000kms. To get the pin out you will need to warm it a fair bit, if you don't want to save it you can always cut through the flange with an angle grinder and pull it off.
Cheers

[Dougal]

Slide hammer. Mine came out easy.

I did question afterwards why I didn't just fit the disco tailshaft. The rubber was in good nick and I don't have a lift causing bad u-joint angles. The disco shaft sliding joint was perfect, mine is rooted.

[Bearman]

Thanks for all the advice fella's, I probably should have explained it a little more. Not knocking the donut application or anything like that just want to use the diff housing and CW&P in the front of my County with a truetrac. I am building up a HD front end with truetrac, jacmac axles and AEU2322 CV's and rather than have the vehicle off the road I will build up this one and then just change the whole shebang over. Then the front end should be almost bulletproof.