1960 Series 2 109 project

[gromit]

After getting time to check over the latest project there are quite a few things that need fixing just to get it to run, without all the other problems I've already found.
"love is blind" is very true when buying Land Rovers. I saw the rear PTO and belt drive unit and fell in love.....

The chassis has been patched with angle iron, engine & gearbox mounts are shot, engine hasn't run for 15 years, it needs a new wiring harness, panels need some TLC etc. etc.

I've set the timing (it was 180 degrees out) and disconnected all but the starter and a hot wire to the coil. Checking out the fuel supply last night and found it includes a section of garden hose....
From an elbow at the rear of the fuel pump there is a hose that goes to the end of the rigid fuel line from the tank. I'm guessing that garden hose wasn't a factory fit item.
Is there a picture of the hose/fittings in the spare parts manual and any clues where I could source the fittings (tube shouldn't be a problem). Anyone wrecking a Series 2.......


Colin

[drifter]

Mine had a bit of black plastic looking hose in that spot. I changed it for a bit of fuel hose.

Are these any use? :

[gromit]

Thanks Drifter,

Mine is different to the picture. The filter and fuel pump are combined and the flexible pipe joins the end of the rigid pipe from the tank to the input of the filter.
Looks like there should be a 'hose tail' at the filter and also on the union at the end of the rigid pipe so a flexible hose can be fitted. The hose tails & nuts are missing so I'll have to improvise.


Colin

[gromit]

Found time to have a look at the fuel pipe today.
While looking around I found that the breather pipe on the filler neck had been broken off so decided to solder it back on. Quite an easy fix, parts wire brushed shiny clean so just some heat, flux and solder rod and job done.
Fller hose was very scruffy, the external cotton reinforcing was coming off so I removed one from the Series 3 diesel that I'm wrecking and used that instead.

Finally got under the car and removed the fuel hose. It was a bit confusing at first but I finally worked out what had been done as a temporary fix some years ago. The original flexible pipe had a steel reinforcing wrap over the outside and a spring up the centre, at each end was an aluminium crimp. When the original pipe failed it was hacked off leaving a short section inside the crimp and the garden hose was installed over the crimp with a nice big hose clamp.
Once the crimps were cut off the ends were a strange shape and I'm worried that even with a hose clamp a replacement pipe might not grip it too well. The ends are 1/4" BSP so one male and one female airline hose tail should allow me to fit a suitable fuel line. My only concern is that the original pipe had the steel reinforcing wrap, because its low down there is a chance of stone impacts so I'll have to investigate a proper replacement at a later date.

Once the fuel supply is sorted I'll try and start her up. I need it moved off the driveway and it'll let me assess the engine condition....

Colin

[gromit]

Tried to source male and female hose-tails locally but no joy so used the existing tails and fitted a flexible fuel line & hose clips.
Tried manually priming the fuel system with no luck, there was a box in the car that had contained a fuel pump overhaul kit so I pulled the pump/filter assembly off to check it out. The assembly was covered in years of oily crud so I pulled it down and cleaned it up, in the process I found the diaphragm hadn't been connected to the pump operating arm (push in & twist 90 degrees !). Cleaned up & re-installed it, primed up OK and the accelerator pump in the carby was working so.....

Found a spare battery, connected it up and she started after 15 years of slumber. No strange noises and no smoke from the exhaust. Quickly shut it down because there was no coolant and the fan belt isn't connected (need a dynamo to replace the cooked alternator).
Flushed the cooling system and filled with tank water & corrosion inhibitor.

Next the clutch hydraulics. Off with the master cylinder, and I decided to take the brake master off at the same time. Both are free so I'll clean, hone as required and fit a repair kit.
Should get time to do this over the weekend and also get the clutch slave cylinder off and checked.


Colin

[gromit]

I pulled the pedal box out to overhaul the clutch master cylinder and thought why not take the brake pedal box out as well.
Both pedal boxes are now overhauled & re-painted, gaskets made from an old inner tube and all fitted back into place. I only intended to get the series 2 mobile so I can move it off the driveway but it's already taking up too much time....

Both master cylinders were OK once a kit was put through them.
Went to remove the clutch slave and found a lot of rusted bolts holding the floor panesl down (had to grind the heads off) plus someone in the past had stuck the passenger floor down with what looks like hot-melt adhesive ! Eventually got the slave cylinder off and put a kit through it.

Back together and the vehicle now moves. Hand brake causes a lot of juddering so started to investigate. I'd already changed the engine mounts so had a look at the gearbox mounts and they were very soft. Someone in the past had put packers under the gearbox mounts because the rear PTO shaft was making contact with the hole through the crossmember. New mounts and packers removed and everything lined up again.

Thought I'd investigate the rear brakes next. The drums are badly worn and are probably the originals (casting date 1959) and the cylinders are the early type (single adjuster). Brake shoes haven't seen much use.
Both cylinders freed off but I had to modify the boots from a later kit to fit. The hole in the centre was enlarged and where the boots fit onto the cylinder it's parallel (no undercut to grip onto) so I ended up using contact adhesive to get the boots to stay in position. One had a non-standard spring inside so it's off to the local spring shop later in the week to see if I can find something that fits better.

The plan is to check out the front brakes, get the brakes working and then strip the handbrake drum so the shoes can be replaced (they will be oil contaminated from the amount that's dripping out). Then once it's off the driveway I can do some work on the other Land Rovers.

Wanted list so far :-
Pair early type rear LWB brake wheel cylinders
Dynamo & mounting brackets
Rear brake drums
Rear prop-shaft
Wiring harness

Another bargain purchase.......


Once I figure out how to post pictures (I used to 'attach' them but I now have 'too many attachments') I'll post some pictures of the work so far.


Colin

[NiteMare]

i use photobucket to host my pictures and then link to them using the [img] tags

if you open a PB account (free) it's pretty simple to upload to there, once uploaded you'll see a list of "addresses" to the right of the picture, i use the bottom "address" ([img] tag) to copy and paste into any thread

i'd suggest you start on PB by making an album and then uploading pictures of your landy work to that, for seperate events/projects make new albums and this will simplify finding your pictures for future reference

remember that should you delete or move any pictures they will also then not appear in any threads you may have linked them to

a link to my albums just to give you an idea, this page gives my initial album and to the right you'll see all my sub-albums (some in turn have thier own sub-albums)
Pictures by NiteMare_08 - Photobucket (http://s259.photobucket.com/albums/hh311/NiteMare_08/)

[gromit]

Received my tread strips for the tray thanks to Wrinklearthur & delivery by Ranga.
Project is on the backburner at the moment because apparently I have too much LR 'junk' on the driveway and need to move some of it on.
Also I've been busy sorting out a lathe & milling machine that the father-in-law gave me some time ago, setting up a forge, getting round to putting walls on the shed extension etc.
I'm hoping to catch up with a few jobs this weekend and get back to the Series 2, last time I started it the radiator sprung a leak putting another job on the long list.

Colin

[gromit]

Decided to make up a bracket for the dynamo at the weekend thanks to the pictures provided by isuzutoo-eh.
Started off with a cornflakes packet to make a template.....
Couldn't get one of the bolts out of the timing chest without removing the engine pulley so I decided to 'slot' the hole to allow it to be swung onto the bolt shank (I can make another sometime in the future or weld up the slot). To get the hole for the dynamo in the correct postion I made the bracket, fitted it and then slid a long bolt through the lug on the engine then drew round the bolt where it met the bracket. Finally drilled the hole and filed off the excess.


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/04/780.jpg

The paint should be dry now so I can mount the bracket & dynamo sometime soon.


Colin

[gromit]

Tidied the driveway up a bit at the weekend (making room for the next project ?).

Stacked up the S1 & S3 SWB chassis, moved some parts under cover and got the Series 2 off to one side so we can get our other cars parked more easily.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/04/615.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/07/196.jpg

I'm busy this weekend but hope to get the dynamo checked over and mounted in the next week or two then I have to get the radiator out to solder up a leak.


Colin

[gromit]

I still haven't found a dynamo for the Series 2 so I've 'borrowed' one from another vehicle. It wasn't working properly so a strip down and overhaul was needed.
The brushes had seized in their holders but the commutator was OK (but tarnished) and the bearings were fine.
Just cleaning & painting it so I'll be able to fit it and get the waterpump working. I did think about fitting a 'Brammer' type belt over the crank & waterpump pulleys but decided fitting a dynamo was a better option.


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/05/1525.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/05/1526.jpg


When I took out the pedal boxes a while ago I found that a previous owner had welded blobs on the pedals because the original pips had worn smooth. When I repainted the pedals I left the welded repairs.


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/04/1371.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/05/1527.jpg

[gromit]

Not sure of the history of this dynamo but there was an extra washer fitted behind the cooling 'fan'. Tried assembly without and the blades caught on the dynamo so re-installed it and all is OK. Just need to find time to install it....

Off to the Lake Goldsmith Rally on Saturday and looking at more Land Rovers on Sunday.


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/05/1381.jpg


Colin

[gromit]

Finally got round to getting the dynamo mounted between rain showers yesterday.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/05/290.jpg

I had some new bolts ready but forgot that the bolt that screws into the dynamo and the bolt that screws into the waterpump are both UNC rather than UNF. Fitted Whitworth bolts as a temporary measure (same pitch just different thread angle and head size).

Next job is to get the radiator out and track down the leak.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/05/291.jpg


Its coming from under the header tank somewhere.
I've made a couple of aluminium plugs that can be clamped into a short section of hose to fit the top & bottom outlets of the radiator. Each plug has a 1/8" BSP tapped hole, one will have a Schrader tyre valve installed and the other a pressure gauge.
I'll be able to use a bicycle pump to pressurise the radiator to a few psi to help track down the leak, I'll probably partly fill it with water then by putting the radiator leak end down I should be able to track the water spray......

I still need to find a dynamo(generator) to replace the one I borrowed plus lots of other bits and pieces. I'm also chasing after another Land Rover project, a Series 3 with a small Isuzu engine (2.4) fitted. The seller also has a 200Tdi motor for sale which he was going to install.......decisions, decisions.


Colin

[gromit]

Other projects have meant that I haven't spent much time on the Series 2 for a while.
I'm still looking for a reasonable set of LWB springs (F&R) plus a rear propshaft but I did score some NOS rear cappings today.
No holes for indicators but one has a pencil line where someone started to mark it out but never got round to drilling it out.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/866.jpg


Just need a decent tray to put the cappings onto now..........


Colin

[gromit]

Just had to move the Series 2 to clear the driveway.

It doesn't get started very often but I noticed tonight it's running very rich so I'll have the overhaul the carby next. Still haven't found time to try and repair the radiator, still needs springs, rear propshaft, tub and from somewhere I need to find the time to do some more work on it.....


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/10/1200.jpg


The SIII & SI chassis should be gone soon (thanks Arthur) which makes some room........for another project ?


Colin

[gromit]

Collected a Solex kit today which means I can overhaul the carby soon.
It's running very rich so when I saw a kit for $27 I couldn't resist, in fact I nearly got a 'spare' for the next project.....

Genuine Solex kit RKS 1860A

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/10/327.jpg




Colin

[gromit]

It's a while since I last worked on the Series II 109
I did consider for a while stripping off the rear PTO and selling it on but decided that I would eventually get round to working on it.

With a forced change of job last year I haven't been spending that much time working on Land Rovers but need to get going again.

Started it and moved it yesterday, need to remember to fit that carby overhaul kit because it runs very rich.

I'm in need of a good tub because the one fitted needs too much work. It also needs the springs replaced and a few other items so I guess I'm looking for a parts vehicle with a chassis beyond repair.
As soon as I find either the parts or a donor vehicle I'll get going on this project.



Colin

[UncleHo]

G'day Gromit :)

Remember that both Solex and and Zenith 36IV the mixture adjustment is IN = weaker and OUT = richer the opposite to most Aust & US carbys ;)

And that pre 1961 commercial vehicles did not require blinkers and they were an optional extra but all 2a's had them as standard.

[gromit]

G'day Gromit :)

Remember that both Solex and and Zenith 36IV the mixture adjustment is IN = weaker and OUT = richer the opposite to most Aust & US carbys ;)

And that pre 1961 commercial vehicles did not require blinkers and they were an optional extra but all 2a's had them as standard.

Thanks Uncle Ho,

I'm used to Brit carbys. I haven't really checked the settings but going by the rest of the vehicle the carby will be badly worn.
Indicators had been added (for some reason clear lenses at the front) the switch is mounted on the arm that holds the horn button. I don't like drilling holes in bodywork so would usually mount them lower down on a home made bracket mounted off an existing bolt.

Still has a single wiper (nothing on the passenger side).


Colin

[chazza]

Remember that both Solex and and Zenith 36IV the mixture adjustment is IN = weaker and OUT = richer the opposite to most Aust & US carbys ;)



I think you might mean the other way around Ho ;)

Cheers Charlie

[gromit]

Finally got round to overhauling the carby.

Lots of debris plus a few spiders inside. It's a long job trying to clean up the years of petrol stains on the outside.
One part was damaged so I'll have to look for another carby at some point in the future. Loctited it back together as a temporary measure.

Just one more part to clean & reassemble.....

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/502.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%202%20109%201960/DSCN2998_zpsccf7d3b1.jpg.html)

Hopefully it improves the running.



Colin

[MattyGM]

..... It's a long job trying to clean up the years of petrol stains on the outside....


I have found carby cleaner in a spray can to work well, have you tried some?

[gromit]

I have found carby cleaner in a spray can to work well, have you tried some?

I scrubbed off the worst of it with a small brass wire brush and some turps then finished off with carby cleaner then dryed with an airline.

Here it is fitted.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/466.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%202%20109%201960/DSCN3002_zps49a74afc.jpg.html)


Starts & runs a lot better now but really need to get the old girl warmed up so I can set the carby properly.


Colin

[MattyGM]

Looks immaculate now ~ probably in better order than from the factory :D

[schuy1]

just make sure the rubber hose connecter for the air horn is seated square on the neck of the carby and the clamp is squared onto it. There is not a lot of clamping room there and they can pop off! :o That is how I dusted 1 of mine .
Cheers Scott

[gromit]

just make sure the rubber hose connecter for the air horn is seated square on the neck of the carby and the clamp is squared onto it. There is not a lot of clamping room there and they can pop off! :o That is how I dusted 1 of mine .
Cheers Scott

The Series II is a long way off hitting the road again.
The connector has been left loose because I regularly had to tip petrol throught the carby to get it started, if the overhaul has cured that then it'll get fixed properly.


Colin

[gromit]

Playing ariound with the Series II the other day I found that the seat base has fallen apart (the plywood must have been left wet at some point).

It's on an adjustable frame but I'm tring to work out how the cushion is meant to fit.
It seems that it fits inside the angle of the frame but ends sitting up on the four nuts/studs, is this correct ?

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/07/346.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%202%20109%201960/DSCN3154_zpsf0d59d70.jpg.html)


The vinyl cover will be wrapped under and stapled onto the plywood but still not ideal to have it sitting on the nuts/studs.
I think there is a narrow strip of wood around the inside edge to give the plywood some support so maybe a narrow strip tacked on once the vinyl is fitted will keep it up off the nuts/studs.

I hadn't realised that the seat frame was kinked (by design).

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/07/347.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%202%20109%201960/DSCN3156_zps29b145d9.jpg.html)


The upward bend may support the base along with the upturn at the back so maybe it just needs a strip of timber at the front edge ?






Colin

[gromit]

I cut some plywood for the bases and some strips of hardwood for the support rails.


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/10/288.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%202%20109%201960/DSCN3158_zps97884952.jpg.html)


Looks like the support strips on the underside of the seat bases butt against bolt heads to stop the base moving forward (never really looked at the seats in detail before). Still not certain about the drivers seat base, should it have the support strips underneath ?
I'll have to have a play and see what works.

The original Dunlop foam looks OK so just need to source some grey vinyl & thread and then make some templates.......as if I haven't got enough on with other projects.



Colin

[Cobber]

I was quite happy to let a pro do mine :D I was delighted to know I could retain the original seat bases but the foam and covering had to be replaced but they are better or it. Yours should turn out great, I look forward to the end result :BigThumb:

[gromit]

I was quite happy to let a pro do mine :D I was delighted to know I could retain the original seat bases but the foam and covering had to be replaced but they are better or it. Yours should turn out great, I look forward to the end result :BigThumb:

I ordered DeLuxe seats for one project but wasn't happy with the MDF bases.
I then went to the trouble of tracking down a walking foot industrial sewing machine (from the 1920's) some time ago so it's about time I used it.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/07/59.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Stuff/DSCN2785_zps3dc8d12c.jpg.html)


I started by buying the vinyl & thread to recover the seats in my FFR, then I found the seat bases for the Series II were past saving and then found that the bases on my IIa GS were also past saving. Hopefully tonight I'll cut out some more bases and also the templates for cutting the vinyl. I have the vinyl for the FFR seats so I'll do those first and see how it goes.


Colin

[gromit]

Decided to move the 109" & jet wash it today.
Poor old thing has to stand outside in all weather, mind you so does the current project (Wallit the SIII with C240 motor).

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/11/1047.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%202%20109%201960/DSCN3307_zps46084be6.jpg.html)


I'm still in need of sills, a replacement tub, tailgate, springs and the transmission is in need of an overhaul.
I found a nice 109" in the same grey last year but still waiting for the owner to remove a fallen tree to get it out. Chassis was rotten but the panels were OK.

At the moment there are a couple of projects in front of this one but I still need to keep on the lookout for parts......



Colin

[gromit]

I've decided to move this project on http://www.aulro.com/afvb/vehicles-sale/216713-1960-series-ii-lwb.html

Funds from the sale will go towards fixing up the Dormobile.


Colin

[gromit]

Going to a new home soon.


Colin