80 Series Cruiser Shocks...

[saiken]

So I was looking at using OME N73 shocks to get more articulation on the old girl (using Gwyn Lewis mounts) and was wondering if anyone has had any good or bad experience with them or would recommend another type of shock...

Open length - 614mm (24.17")
Closed length - 354mm (13.94")
Travel - 260mm (10.23")

Also had a look at the Terrafirma but as Gwyn Lewis uses the OME and recommends them over the Terrafirma I thought it might be a better path to go down.

[frantic]

I am using the OME's and they are nice but the code for them has changed I think the n73's are now called 60070L

[LowRanger]

So I was looking at using OME N73 shocks to get more articulation on the old girl (using Gwyn Lewis mounts) and was wondering if anyone has had any good or bad experience with them or would recommend another type of shock...

Open length - 614mm (24.17")
Closed length - 354mm (13.94")
Travel - 260mm (10.23")

Also had a look at the Terrafirma but as Gwyn Lewis uses the OME and recommends them over the Terrafirma I thought it might be a better path to go down.

The figures are for the N73,what Gwyn recommends is the N73L,which is a longer shock,and has now been superseded to 60070L as mentioned by Frantic.
The figures for the new shocks are:-
open-26.2"
closed-14.9"
travel-11.3"

These are what I have run for the last couple of years,along with the Gwyn Lewis mounts and rear arms,which are the heaviest and strongest I have seen.

[Drover]

80 Series Toymota LandCrusher shock have to mounted up side down (I think).

This would expose the rears to stone and debris damage to shaft, just worth noting.

Cheers

[saiken]

80 Series Toymota LandCrusher shock have to mounted up side down (I think).

This would expose the rears to stone and debris damage to shaft, just worth noting.

Cheers

I don't know how correct that is as they're all the correct orientation in the Gwyn Gallery.....

Could someone confirm for me??

Also thanks for the input guys.

[modman]

80 series shocks fit the front in the right orientation pin top pin bottom
i'm asuming your investigating the fronts??
for the rears the top long travel mounts all seem to change the eye to a pin which suits the n73l or newer model well.
i use ridepro tlc 80s in my front end just spaced the turrets up 25mm
still allows bumpstop compression fine (they are shiny)
brakelines need replacing good time to go braided
iirc the valving on the old n73l felt soft
there is figures out there and rick130 could probably interpret them.
bilsteins out of eshock are really cheap atm 9100's:cool:
david

[LowRanger]

Yes when you fit the N73L or later equivalent shocks,you fit 80 series fronts to the rear of the Defender as well,and they are pin/pin.
And they fit the correct way up,so no problems.
The valving on the 60070L shocks is completely different to the N73L's,I also recommend when fitting the shocks that you fit a good set of springs and replace the brake lines,you will need it!!!

The problem with the 9100's or the 7100's for that matter is,unless you use short bodies,the closed length is too long for the rest of the setup,and requires a lot of messing around,and you need to have them modified to run pin/pin to suit the Gwyn Lewis system.

[saiken]

I was guessing I'd need to go better springs.... Atm I'm running Bilsteins in the rear and standard in the front with HD front Springs and normal rears.....

My list so far was for
Shocks (OME....??)
Springs (no idea yet)
Gwyn Lewis (GL) Rear shock mount
GL front shock towers (+2") with dislocation cones and HD securing ring
GL Rear dislocation cones with the hook
GL Spring Retainers
New Brake lines
Prop shafts??? would need to see once its all in
Slotted swivel housings to correct castor
rear trailing arms.... cranked or rose jointed..
relocate fuel filter
Adjustable A-Frame Ball Joint - Greasable (GL or similar)

Obviously you could swap and change the GL products for similar from Terrafirma or other places....

[isuzutoo-eh]

Obviously you could swap and change the Gwyn Lewis products for similar from Terrafirma or other places....

Yeah but nobody in their right mind swaps Gwyn Lewis stuff for the inferior bling from other companies. Photos on GL's website don't do justice to the product.

[saiken]

Oh I'll be using his products.... just saying others could swap his gear out for other stuff..... I think when this is all done I might bother to write up a bit of an info article for people.... about the different gear they can use and what not....

[rick130]

FWIW rose jointed suspension bits are illegal for road registered stuff, and IMHO if you use Super Pro rear trailing arm bushes the A frame ball joint working angle becomes your rear end travel limiting device.

LRA in Melbourne used to sell taper wedges to correct the angle of the chassis end trailing arm bushes, then I think dropped them and sell a tapered bush, but I just like the design of the Super Pro one, it's clever.

X-Eng sell a high angle ball joint, and IMO their pictures look suspiciously like the Bearmach adjustable version ????

[saiken]

FWIW rose jointed suspension bits are illegal for road registered stuff

I don't know what the state legislation is but here is an extract from the Light Vehicle construction and modification rules (ADR)


The Heim joint is a rod end bearing, refer to Figure LS7, that may be used on the end of control rods, steering links, tie rods, or anywhere a precision articulating joint is required.

They comprise a ball swivel with an opening through which a bolt or other attaching hardware may pass that is pressed into a circular casing with a threaded shaft attached. The threaded portion may be either male or female. Heim joints are made to a variety of standards in terms of strength and durability. Early versions were prone to failure and had a poor durability history. As a result Heim joints must only be used in critical applications such as steering and suspension if they meet all of the following criteria:


The movement of the rod/component to which the joint is attached does not exceed the allowable articulation angle of the Heim joint as specified by the Heim joint manufacturer;



The Heim joint does not hang-up on existing components; and



A signatory confirms that the Heim joint has sufficient durability and strength in all directions for its intended purpose.

It is strongly recommended that Heim joints be protected by suitably designed dust covers to reduce the risk of premature wear.
Also thanks for the other input Rick, I'll have to look further into the trailing arms though. The A frame ball joints all look very similar (bearmach, x-eng, Gwyn Lewis), I think I'll just stick with the GL one if I'm already shipping stuff over from the UK


and IMHO if you use Super Pro rear trailing arm bushes the A frame ball joint working angle becomes your rear end travel limiting device.
Also, are you suggesting just to run the standard trailing arms with the Super Pro's or cranked ones with them???
[I don't want to replace stuff if I don't need to]

[uninformed]

it would be advised to change out the TA, not just for their angle but becasue they are weak as ****.....so get some that correct the bush angle as much as possible whilst at it....

[saiken]

hmmmm... some choices for T/A then [whilst keeping away from rose jointed due to questionable legality]

Adrenalin 4x4 [40mm x 6mm double cranked]
LAND ROVER DEFENDER DOUBLE CRANKED TRAILING ARMS +2IN | eBay (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-DEFENDER-DOUBLE-CRANKED-TRAILING-ARMS-2IN-/170749919589?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item27c17d0165)

Gwyn Lewis [single crank with offset welding]
rear trail arms (http://www.gwynlewis4x4.co.uk/page17.html)

Terrafirma [35mm x 4.8mm single cranked]
Land Rover Defender Rear Cranked Trailing Arms | eBay (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover-Defender-Rear-Cranked-Trailing-Arms-/220602448806?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item335cee3ba6)

Monsta 4x4 [6mm seamless straight]
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover-Defender-Heavy-Duty-Rear-Trailing-Arms-/230701625834?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item35b6e371ea

The GL and Adrenalin look similar in tube sizes..... design is different though... all priced at around the same point. I'd be likely to lean towards the GL as I'm already looking at getting a heap of his stuff.

[LowRanger]

As I mentioned in an earlier post,I have the GL rear trailing arms in my 110.They are the heaviest and most solid arms that I have seen,they are double walled.I have had many people ask for information about them that have seen them and compared them with their aftermarket arms.You won't go wrong if you purchase them.

As for the rest of Gwyns stuff,it doesn't look all flash and glitzy like some of the other stuff on the market,but it does the job perfectly,if you are fitting it to a 110 or 130 I would recommend that you purchase the multi location upper rear shock mount.I spoke at length with Gwyn regarding this,and he recommended it due to the extra weight that the 110/130 can carry when set up in different configurations.