Log in

View Full Version : washed out photos always having to colour correct



dullbird
27th December 2011, 04:12 PM
Hey guys

So I have a question for the experienced

I have recently noticed that a lot of photo's I have been taking lately are quite washed out of colour.

I'm trying to figure out why!

the lens I have on is my 70-200ED

and yes I did have it at full lense however I also have shots on closest i can take it. the sun was quite bright today but did have the sun behind me...

I have just noticed that a lot of my pictures are coming out very flatt and washed out. I dont recall it always being like this

could it be my camera needs a service, I dont think its my lens or could it be?

or could it be something else like settings or my SD card perhaps.

OR is it my monitor on my computer?

This is the photo before any real tweaking was done yes it is a 1:1 crop and yes the photo was taken at a distance but like I said I have a close up photo of a flower that is as equally washed out

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/205.jpg

and this is my colour boosted one...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/206.jpg

its almost like every photo I take I have to boost the black which takes away that white haze of the photo like I have been photographing next to a smokey fire.

superquag
27th December 2011, 04:39 PM
Take a selection of your 'average' pics, - like Fido here - to a Quality printer and get some larger prints made. Expect to pay lots of dollars for each one.
Then, a day or so later, take your enhanced versions down to the same place for the same-sze prints. Compare. Ask for their comments.

You may find that your monitor needs adjustment or replacement.

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news !:o

On my $300 ACER LCD monitor, the original dog looks more realistic, the brightened one looks like a refugee from "National Geographic" magazine. (Over the top brightness and artificially black shadow areas, suitable for the American taste...)
Cheers

James

Chucaro
27th December 2011, 04:41 PM
What are your settings in the camera, vivid?
Which software are you using to PP the nef files?
Have your D80 Image enhancement options like the D200?
If yes, is in auto?
Have it Tone compensation like the D200?
If yes, is in auto?

superquag
27th December 2011, 04:52 PM
Here's your washed out pic of your hound, run through "Auto levels" in Photoshop.
- I would'nt want to see it any brighter or saturated than this (on my monitor and for my tastes...)

What do you think ?

Olden-Days James...:)

dullbird
27th December 2011, 05:25 PM
That still looks very washed out just not as flatt as my original. on my computer

perhaps it is my monitor that needs calibrating.

Chucaro

My D80

Optimized image = normal
image quality = Raw
White balance = auto
iso = 100
tone = auto
Sharpness = auto
colour/hue = mode1a, 0 what ever the hell that means:D

Picture taken in Aperture priority

processed by lightroom3 64x


to look at the picture on the camera itself it looks fine...but when I get it on comp it looks washed out.

this laptop is 12months old so hopefully if it is the screen it just needs adjusting.

and even on the histogram all the RGB's are through the central collumns and looks like it should be a well balanced photo in terms of colour etc.

The photo was taken at f4 at 200mm and 1/200sec so again this should of been ok I think.

Maybe I need to purchase capture NX or something like that to see if there is a difference. I'm still waiting on my new computer arrival so will have to save up to get a monitor calibrator as well I guess :(

dullbird
27th December 2011, 07:38 PM
how weird

I just relooked back at this thread and I totally agree with you superquag!!!

the top picture does look far more natural and doesn't appear that washed out either now!!

I can't really explain it other than I'm now looking at my laptop in the lounge room under incandescent lighting rather than in my kitchen earlier in bright natural lighting...

could it be the way my screen is its got that kind of shiney reflective type look to it (if that makes sense)? why would those pictures look so different to me at different times of the day????

Still I have solved the picture problem is the short term I took the colour out :D

to me the picture works better in black and white anyway :p

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/202.jpg

Chucaro
27th December 2011, 07:52 PM
Dullbird, post processing your images in a laptop is a no-no
You do not need to invest in a top monitor my suggestion is to get a Samsung to plug in your LT.
I have a cheap Samsung SyncMaster 940n and my images need very little adjustment on the Pro monitors before printing.
The only adjustment is that some time my images are a tad dark but this can be because I like dark images and alsio my eyes.
If you do not use Nikon Capture to PP your nef files then the parameters selected in your D80 are ignored by the third party software.
I believe that PSCS5 is OK but I have not tested it.

Love the dog :) I am suffering the withdrawls since we lost Clara and I think that in our next house we will have another one.

TimNZ
27th December 2011, 08:14 PM
<snip> post processing your images in a laptop is a no-no</snip>

Hi Chucaro, does this recommendation stand if the laptop monitor is calibrated? I have a Spider 3 calibrating watsit, and the calibration makes quite a difference. With the monitor uncalibrated my photos look washed out, with poor contrast, but they are much better with the calibration on. However I find my photos look even better on my Plasma TV....

Sorry to hijack your thread DB :angel:

Cheers,

Tim

superquag
27th December 2011, 08:17 PM
YESSS,,, B&W rules !!!

Laptop ??? No wonder things don't look right! - As you've found, ambient light has a big(er) influence on the colour rendition, the cheaper the screen the more it changes.

Monitor calibration is the thing you need, and as Chucaro points out, spending the Greek National Debt is not required to get something better than most laptops!

My own preference for rendition is top-end CRT (Old fashioned 'glass' ) screens, but realistically they're few and far between 2nd hand, and non-existant new. Sadly, my new computer's video card does'nt like my glass screen.:(

Aim for the absolute minimum of post-processing. Or should I be blunt and call it 'manipulation'. of what should'nt be there...or trying to add what is'nt.

Try and get the original image as close to perfect as possible going IN to the camera, even if it means studying the handbook cover to cover.:eek::eek:


James in Gosnells,
Retired Graphics / Pre-Press Technician

superquag
27th December 2011, 08:20 PM
Hi Chucaro, does this recommendation stand if the laptop monitor is calibrated? I have a Spider 3 calibrating watsit, and the calibration makes quite a difference. With the monitor uncalibrated my photos look washed out, with poor contrast, but they are much better with the calibration on. However I find my photos look even better on my Plasma TV....

Sorry to hijack your thread DB :angel:

Cheers,

Tim

Spyder is my recommendation too, though a half-way decent screen is needed to begin with. (My personal bias here...)

Besides, its not a watsit, - its a 'Gizmo' :D

Chucaro
27th December 2011, 08:21 PM
Hello Tim,

Calibration of a monitor it is not as simple to run your Spider.
To have a consistent calibration the monitor have to be in a place where it is not going to be moved and afected by changes of natural or artificial light.
For that reason top of the range monitors have guards all arround the screen.
Laptops are not the best to use for PP because the angle of the monitor varies and this affect contrast and saturation.
Is for this reason that I suggested to have a monitor to plug on the laptop.

Chucaro
27th December 2011, 08:34 PM
James is correct in his thread, the best results are when the original is excellent, however IMO there is nothing wrong with PP and some manipulation to get a special effect.
Photography is an art where the photographer try to capture and image and transmit an emotion or mood trough his/her work.
Post processing is nothing new, some old the great photograpers were virtuosos with their camera but also master in the dark room.
Just to mention some: Ansel Adams, Rosenfield, Karsh, Nich Brant and many more.
Do not limit your work just for not using PP, after all the camere will never be able to capture what your eyes can see and that limitiation of the equipment becomes a manipulation of the reality.

dullbird
27th December 2011, 08:35 PM
well on the 3rd of Jan my new computer will be picked up from Dave.....as I had a brown out or a lightning strike which pretty much wiped out my 2 grand computer that was only just 3 years old :BigCry:

I have a 22" Asus monitor for my big computer and I don't recall having as many PP problems so perhaps you guys are totally right and it is the laptop.

of course my monitor still needs calibrating as well I have looked at spyder before but at the time was too expensive but perhaps I just need to bit the bullet.

as for minimal PP I agree and I would love too which is why I have also bought more books regarding my speed light so I can learn how to use them properly. my problem is I learn much better on the job with someone showing me rather than reading about it..that's just the way I find easiest to learn.

I did find a course for the speed light to partake in however it clashes with badminton so could not enroll.

any photographers out there that know how to use a Nikon SB800 that would like to show me the basics one weekend :p I'll buy you a coffee :D

300+
27th December 2011, 10:05 PM
Hi Chucaro, does this recommendation stand if the laptop monitor is calibrated? I have a Spider 3 calibrating watsit, and the calibration makes quite a difference. With the monitor uncalibrated my photos look washed out, with poor contrast, but they are much better with the calibration on. However I find my photos look even better on my Plasma TV....

Sorry to hijack your thread DB :angel:

Cheers,

Tim

The best laptop panels do not have the full gamut - good ones get to 75% of the colour range displayed. My external monitor has 110%. If you can, get an IPS panel. These will generally be better than any regular TN panels.

Any of these will do: Shop By Design (http://accessories.ap.dell.com/sna/sna.aspx?c=au&cs=audhs1&l=en&s=dhs&~topic=ultrasharp_monitor&~ck=mn)

As you can see the smaller ones are not much more than the cheepies (should you be in the market for a new monitor...).

The other important thing to do is manage the external light. I only edit images in a nearly dark room, else I get the exact results you have seen.

Cheers, Steve

Land Rover Widow
27th December 2011, 10:18 PM
I didn't read all the responses but have you always been shooting in RAW or is that a recent change? Could it just be the change away from Jpeg files?

And I process on a laptop...I'm calibrated and my prints turn out as per my monitor :)

superquag
27th December 2011, 11:04 PM
.....
And I process on a laptop...I'm calibrated and my prints turn out as per my monitor :)

So.... pictures of You, um, look like..You ? :p

What you've done is to calibrate the entire chain, the ultimate way to go.

Getting some prints done at a 'quality' lab/shop and then comparing them to what you see on-screen is indeed the only way.

Its what we did, even tweaking pics between editions.

James in Retirement

Land Rover Widow
27th December 2011, 11:23 PM
So.... pictures of You, um, look like..You ? :p

What you've done is to calibrate the entire chain, the ultimate way to go.

Getting some prints done at a 'quality' lab/shop and then comparing them to what you see on-screen is indeed the only way.

Its what we did, even tweaking pics between editions.

James in Retirement

prints as in, printed photos from the lab, match my monitor/laptop. Not on my home printer :) Colours match.

dmdigital
28th December 2011, 06:02 AM
Which colour space are you using? If it is Adobe then the pictures will appear slightly washed out as the colour gamut is to large for the screen display generally (especially n a laptop). That said you want to be using Adobe but for web display save as sRGB.

dullbird
28th December 2011, 08:15 PM
no always shot in Raw

and Derek I think its set to RGB not sRGB

drifter
28th December 2011, 08:36 PM
Stu Simmonds at Quality Camera in WA used to do Spyder calibrators at a pretty good price and his delivery is pretty good. I have one of his Spyders here somewhere.

superquag
28th December 2011, 09:01 PM
Is this the one ? :)

ColorVision Spyder 3 Pro Display Calibration Hardware & Software (http://www.qualitycamera.com.au/colorvision-spyder-display-calibration-hardware-software-p-4003.html)

$230 just now...

drifter
28th December 2011, 11:01 PM
Is this the one ? :)

ColorVision Spyder 3 Pro Display Calibration Hardware & Software (http://www.qualitycamera.com.au/colorvision-spyder-display-calibration-hardware-software-p-4003.html)

$230 just now...

Actually, I think the one I have is this:

ColorVision Spyder Express (http://www.qualitycamera.com.au/colorvision-spyder-express-p-4918.html)

Cheaper, too ($139) ;)

If you run 2 monitors, be sure you buy one that will support two monitors.

dullbird
29th December 2011, 07:56 PM
anyone know what the actual difference between Spyder express, pro and elite are???
I have lookeed on their site and they all have pretty much the same spiel

Chucaro
29th December 2011, 08:16 PM
The software is different, when using advanced RGB control mode luminance can be observed , so it can be adjusted via the monitor and the Pro's reading.

Chucaro
29th December 2011, 08:30 PM
Dullbird, just in case that you would like to see a full comparision between all models have a look HERE (http://spyder.datacolor.com/s3compare.php)

dmdigital
29th December 2011, 09:29 PM
Lou I have the Spyder3Elite and it has been very effective. When I bought it the lower spec models weren't released and I also was able to get it an exceptionally good price. Also the Spyder3 stood above all the others on the market at the time. There are now a lot more options available.

Land Rover Widow
30th December 2011, 03:52 PM
I also have Spyder3elite :) I think I purchased mine from ebay in the US and it was a lot cheaper than here in Aus

superquag
31st December 2011, 12:12 PM
I've got the SPYDER 2 Express, worked well on my old (& glass-screen) computer, but won't load onto my new comp. - Something about the registry...

Anyway, I've manually calibrated the screen to 'near-enough' for my needs. ;-)

incisor
31st December 2011, 12:37 PM
I've got the SPYDER 2 Express, worked well on my old (& glass-screen) computer, but won't load onto my new comp. - Something about the registry...

Anyway, I've manually calibrated the screen to 'near-enough' for my needs. ;-)

Download the latest software from their website

superquag
1st January 2012, 11:00 AM
Worked the second time around.
I'm amazed that they still support the 2Express, total program in a download. :)

Well, its installed, run and ... well the colour seems pretty well spot-on, can only tell the differance with the Before / After comparison that comes up at installation's end.

Cheers,
James

dullbird
2nd January 2012, 03:38 PM
looking at the comparison I wonder whether a sypder pro would do me rather than going all out on the elite.

it doesn't have no where near the features of the elite but its hard to know what you would or wouldn't use it for. the pro still seems to have some adjustment unlike the express.

slug_burner
2nd January 2012, 10:48 PM
Could this be simply a case of exposure not being correct?

With a subject with a fair amount of black in it I suspect that the light meter is telling the camera to open up more than required as it tries to bring everything to a mid grey.

The metering method used will have a lot to do with it and with the more modern cameras they tend to take care of some of this stuff although if you have set it to spot metering then you could be getting an incorrect exposure depending on where the spot is pointed at.

dullbird
3rd January 2012, 04:52 PM
metering is always generally set to matrix unless I want to expose a particular way...

I would agree with you other than my histogram tells me that it is exposed well. and the picture on the camera screen looks how it should be intended..it is once it gets off the camera it appears to be a problem.

blitz
3rd January 2012, 06:55 PM
any photographers out there that know how to use a Nikon SB800 that would like to show me the basics one weekend :p I'll buy you a coffee :D

make that 2 coffees ;)

dmdigital
3rd January 2012, 07:12 PM
If you throw in an airfare with the coffee...:angel:

dullbird
3rd January 2012, 07:27 PM
If you throw in an airfare with the coffee...:angel:

Oi you get your airfare paid!!!:D

dullbird
3rd January 2012, 07:28 PM
make that 2 coffees ;)

Is that one for sat and one for sun:p

superquag
3rd January 2012, 07:41 PM
Over 120 pages full of detailed instructions.....for a (Nikon SB 800) FLASHGUN ?????

Gosh, glad I'm not starting out in photography now... So much to memorise in simply running the equipment!

Rip Van James

dmdigital
7th January 2012, 09:46 AM
Lou, Spydercolor4 has been announced so may to see if you can get a 3 at a reduced price in the near future.

dullbird
7th January 2012, 09:00 PM
cool thanks derek..I will keep a look out

blitz
12th January 2012, 09:53 AM
Back to the original question

could it be something as simple as getting a CPL filter? regardless of camera and lens combo on a bright day they are great.

My 2 bobs worth anyway

superquag
12th January 2012, 11:03 AM
Blitz is correct.
The polarising filter is one of the few whose effects can't be duplicated by software, and that reason alone makes them worthwhile. :D

- But you get what you pay for with modern ones, as this article in Wiki explains- My old (film technology) polariser has one function, but today's cameras need two functions performed... The price (!) of digital technology... :o

Check this link:- http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polarizing_filter_(photography)

James van Winkle

dullbird
12th January 2012, 09:14 PM
my lenses have CPL's hoya pro digital 1's ;)

and i dont read anything of wiki

superquag
12th January 2012, 09:52 PM
Oops, that Wiki link has altered or vanished since this afternoon :eek:

Wiki is useful for its references and side-tracks, often more so than the text. :p

dullbird
13th January 2012, 07:46 PM
wiki is not a good source for facts or references ;) anyone can write anything on there and even if facts are placed on there people can still change it

if you were in a debate on this forum and quote wiki to substantiate what you were saying they would laugh in your face hahahahah:D:p

superquag
13th January 2012, 08:34 PM
wiki is not a good source for facts or references ;) anyone can write anything on there and even if facts are placed on there people can still change it.


if you were in a debate on this forum and quote wiki to substantiate what you were saying they would laugh in your face hahahahah:D:p

Who's debating. ???:eek:

blitz
13th January 2012, 08:40 PM
white balance?

or the plus minus dooten for shade or sun? (hate to get too technical here)

dullbird
14th January 2012, 10:24 AM
Who's debating. ???:eek:

Hence why I wrote "IF YOU WERE" I never said you actually were debating:bangin:

dullbird
14th January 2012, 10:27 AM
white balance?

or the plus minus dooten for shade or sun? (hate to get too technical here)

no i don't think that's the problem blitz. I have a feeling that derek and chacaro ar on the money with the laptop screen...

I have my new computer here just waiting on a second hand desk to set it all up and then hopefully I might see some different results:)